NemesisUK

Except the part covering the instrument binnacle bulge, on my 2016 RC at least it feels different, softer, has stitch detailing around the edge and has no 'grain' ?

Class

From the owner's handbook.... "Do not place anything other than cups or aluminum cans in the cup holders."

A little more info... http://www.lexus-int.com/eco-thinking/power-of-h-engine.html

"Where available, the transmission enhances driver engagement through two means. Firstly, models with a sequential function built into the E-CVT system generate the feeling of manually changing gear ratios by providing a closer match between increases in engine and vehicle speed. This is also used to deliver stepped engine braking force under deceleration. Secondly, models with a sport mode built into the E-CVT change the sensation of dynamic performance by increasing engine speed more rapidly during acceleration, as demonstrated in the diagram below." http://blog.lexus.co.uk/perfect-partners-e-cvt-and-hybrid/ The above certainly add more driver 'involvement' should one wish it

Some modern engines and certainly those of the German marques for many years have knock sensors and can adjust the engine ignition timings to make best use of the fuel presented. Definitely the case in my old CLS55, I could feel the difference when switching to V-Power. Now, I know the engine in the 300h is nowhere near the performance tune of the AMG but it certainly can't hurt the engine to feed it with higher octane fuel and with increased cleaning additives. Does anyone know if the Lexus 4 pot engines have the ability to automatically adjust timing to account for octane rating?

The RC300h has only one electric traction motor?

So, basically, the electric motor spins up the ICE, increasing oil pressure, before the ignition starts. Yes, it is a very smooth start when it occurs as the car moving but a little less smooth when pulling away from standstill. The ICE start-up then feels ever so slightly more 'abrupt'

Well you know.. it won't do any damage... (approx £8 extra per tank, no big deal)

If anything like my 2016 RC the only bit of real leather on the dash is the part covering the instrument binnacle. The rest and the door cappings are artificial leather

As does the monitor in my RC but the question stands, does the ICE still spin (free-wheel, no ignition spark, no fuel being consumed ) even when not providing power to move the car? If it does it would continue to maintain oil pressure and reduce wear from constant start-ups? I noticed in this cold snap we're experiencing that the ICE fires up to provide warmth to the cabin (and it's own internals?) even though the monitor shows the electric motor is providing power to the wheels. No other indication i.e. powerflow, from ICE to the wheels.

Regular will be fine but for the small additional expense per tank I would (and have for my RC300h) use the likes of Shell V-Power, even if only to keep the engine/fuel system cleaner.

I think Rabbers sums up my views on the RC quite nicely. I would only add the RC's "Raison d'etre" was never to be a sports car but a grand tourer, a brief it carries off admirably, IMHO.

Doesn't the alarm module have it's own rechargeable battery? On previous cars the alarm was totally separate from the car systems battery, meaning it couldn't flatten the car battery and also if the miscreant disconnected the car battery somehow the alarm wold still sound.

Does the ICE (Internal Combustion Engine, royoftherovers ) actually stop spinning when the electric motor takes over? Obviously when stopped at lights it does but when cruising?

Don't apply the parking brake for extended periods, especially during the colder months? It states this in the owner's handbook

Does the hybrid ICE have an electric oil pump?

That's why I always breathe through my nose when sitting in a defrosting car, seems to help ;)

Have you checked the cabin air filter?

Seconded, the Harmony remote is a great bit of kit, very versatile. I have it controlling all my AV kit. Even if your device isn't immediately compatible you can 'teach' the remote the basic functions, then send Logitech an email request, they can quickly update their database.

That's the science of it, a cool surface condensing water vapour. But if one operates the a/c there is very little water vapour in the incoming heated air and generally within the vehicle. Parking up overnight there will be a degree of condensation, depending on temperature differences and humidity levels but once the a/c starts up this clears quickly. If condensation is a major problem then one should look to making sure things like scuttle drains are free from blockages (leaves etc..), carpets aren't wet from leaks or overflowing drains. Check also the underneath of the carpets, the sound deadening layers as sometimes the carpet surface is dry but the underfelt is sodden.

I've always kept the a/c on in all my cars, summer and winter. This dehumidifies the incoming air and keeps the interior free of damp and the windows clear. Even says to do so in the owner's handbook. In some systems (not sure about Lexus) it's recommended as it keeps the system seals lubricated, preventing leaks. BTW - I've never seen a negative impact on mpg.

One could also fit this to facilitate oil draining. http://www.fumotousa.com/

You shouldn't have 'sludge' in the sump! Not sure draining would be anymore scavenging than suction, unless you also drop the sump pan? Draining via the sump plug, in many cars, requires the removal of under-trays etc.. The oil filter usually easily (in my Mercedes anyway) accessible from above? Some cars (AMG) need to be drained as they had saddle sumps, so couldn't reach both via the dip tube (which a few didn't have!) but does anyone know, do Lexus dealers drain or pump?

What's the panel's view on oil extraction using a pump as opposed to draining via the sump plug? I know many main dealerships now use suction rather than draining. Certainly makes the process easier for the home mechanic