NemesisUK

My RC brakes groan in slow moving traffic but not every application and it's on the flat ..

Cuts in and out as required to maintain pressure but if it's running very often or constantly it would point to a leak? This is all just guesswork on my part, just extrapolating from my experiences with the MB system..

Did the noise only start 3 weeks ago?

The other thing it sounds like is the electric pressure pump for the brakes? Similar to MB's SBC

Would conversion to LPG be an economic proposition?

Do you have air suspension? Could it be the compressor?

Link not working..

Yes, briefly perhaps a couple of days. Been fine the last couple of weeks though. Win10 and Chrome

Happy Easter from a, currently, sunny North Wiltshire. I say currently as I've just washed the RC (again) and I'm sure it'll rain very soon ...

From observing the rev counter when in the transmission is in S mode there is a change in revs when selecting a lower or higher 'gear'. I'm assuming that the ratio of input from the electric motor is altered, invoking a change in engine revs. Whether it's all just electronic trickery or not putting the gear selector into S mode then downshifting using the paddles gives a rise in revs and a much more urgent response to the throttle. Also noted, with the selector in S mode the transmission will hold the engine at high revs and not automatically change 'gear', unlike when in normal mode and S mode set with the drive mode selector. It's a very good imitation of a clutchless manual transmission. Coming from the AMG Speedshift auto box i was a little concerned the eCVT would be rather soul-less, rubber band like but I'm very impressed in how the different modes operate, uber smooth urban cruiser or involving, snappy A/B road Sportster

I have the current wheels sealed with ceramic coating and the very limited amounts (as it's a hybrid) of brake dust simply rinses off. Previous cars the rims were all treated with Collinite 915 and after washing I wiped them down with Meg's Last Touch.

I use the same shampoo as I use on the car, with the help of Wheel-Woolies http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheels-and-tyres/wheel-woolies-wheel-brush-kit/prod_1037.html

At such a reasonable cost I'd be doing them every 12mths, not worth messing about ... I've seen what a 48mth old filter can look like, once I'd knocked the leaves out

Manual also means one can increase the revs in preparation of an overtake, 'kickdown' in a normal autobox.. Engine breaking is effective but in the hybrid one should use the 'brakes' as all one is doing is recharging the battery, via regenerative braking. Not like a normal car where one could experience brake fade on a long downhill, so one would shift down to use the engine to slow.

What's the schedule for the IS250? On my RC300h the filter is inspected every 24mths and replaced every 48mths. How expensive are Lexus air filters?

I believe the system also uses speed and steering angle inputs to calculate position, in case of GPS signal loss, for example, in tunnels, underground car parks.. My experience of the premium Nav, coming from years of using the Mercedes COMAND is the Lexus system is more complex to initiate but is no different in route calculation and direction. Voice guidance is far more informative though a little repeatitive...

Those types of filters worked ok on carburettor engines but on modern injection engines with MAF and ECU controlled fuelling they have no effect on power. They may increase induction noise though. OEM filters don't restrict breathing on the unmodified engine. Once one starts with remaps and other tuning mods the engine would benefit from a better induction but would require bigger cross section intake and supply pipework too. Personally i wouldn't fit the oiled type filter, they've been shown to allow the engine to ingest much higher amounts of crap. If over oiled they can adversely affect the MAF.

I did buy a touch up pen and clear coat stick!! Well, if they record such minutia in the history, bodes well

Just checked the service history on my Oct'16 RC. Very short.. Just the 3 entries 'PDI' and 'TUP 1H9' and 'TUP3T5' But can anybody tell me what TUP 1H9 and TUP 3T5 means? There's no detail in either the last two entries

I agree to a point but if you up the flow rate too high, in a low aspect column, once the column is flooded the water will flow more readily directly from inlet to outlet, creating 'stagnant' regions around the outside. In a high aspect ratio column the same will happen but to a much lesser extent, the column is much taller the water flows through a deeper resin bed and one wastes less resin filling the dead areas.

My linked vessel was a poor example but illustrated what I meant by DI. Regarding vessel sizing, flow rates and efficient use of resin have a read of this excellent post, linked below. Explains it far better than I could paraphrase .. http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/archive/index.php/t-361829.html

The taller and thinner (within reason) the vessel the more efficient use of the resin. Be careful of window cleaner focussed tanks as they tend to be low and fat, so as not to tip over on the move or destabilise the van...

DI water rinse is the way forward. No water marks and no need to dry... http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/aqua-gleam/0ppm-de-ionising-water-filter-12.aspx

By resetting the OBC at a judicious point one can get phenomenal mpg figures....

I got the leather folder, complete with manual and service book.