NemesisUK

I check using the pressure display in the cluster every journey. I recheck using a calibrated analogue dial gauge should the dash show a significant change (but not OOS) reading. Usually the only time I have had to adjust the pressure is when the weather changes markedly i.e. Autumn and Spring.

Glass has always been my nemesis. I struggle to get it spotless outside and smear free inside. I use Meg's glass cleaner and it works ok but as you say, never really sparkles.

Work from the top down. Don't allow the panels to dry in the sun. Accept the fact you will get swirls. Clay once a year. Wax as soon as water no long beads. Apply tyre gel on clean tyres once they are dry. Watch you lovely clean, waxed car look dull and dirty by the end of the day.... I used a quick detailer between washes to remove light dust. Interior wise, clean leather with a damp cloth once a week, depending on use, clothes worn etc.. Deep clean 2 or 3 times a year. Wipe dash top with a damp cloth. Use an interior quick detailer to remove spots/ greasy marks on door card or grips. The only reason for 'detailing' a car is because you like doing it. If it's a chore it'll never look good. A car is for driving and enjoying. Basic cleaning and dealing with stone chips is all that's really needed. Perhaps get the car professionally 'detailed' once a year.

I think that if one doesn't use the car for an extended period the entry system goes into power saving mode. The first press woke it up, the second unlocked as normal?

So, the dealership ends up policing the regulations? Not their responsibility. It's up to the purchaser to ensure the vehicle can be parked legally

Get the codes read, you may have a failed air distribution flap motor...

Perhaps the Japanese have the solution? "Get your parking certificate. Without a parking certificate, you won’t be able to bring your new car home - as all cars must have a registered parking space and parking on the roadside is prohibited." https://transferwise.com/gb/blog/buying-a-car-in-japan Our guide whilst in Japan confirmed, without a parking space, certificated and paid for, you can't take delivery of your (paid for) car ...

Cars are too affordable these days...

On-street charge points, monies available but total lack of interest.. "The purpose of the Scheme is to increase the availability of on-street charging points in residential streets where off-street parking is not available, thereby ensuring that off-street parking is not a pre-requisite for realising the benefits of owning a plug-in electric vehicle." https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/672818/residential-on-street-chargepoints-plug-in-electric-vehicles-grants.pdf "Residents can put in a request with their local authorities for On-Street chargepoints" https://pod-point.com/landing-pages/on-street-residential-chargepoint-scheme "Uptake of the On-Street Residential Chargepoint scheme has been described as 'extremely disappointing'" "Just Portsmouth city council, Cambridge city council, Luton borough council, Kettering borough council and the royal borough of Kensington and Chelsea have utilised the scheme so far, prompting ministers Jesse Norman and Claire Perry to pen a letter urging councils to take action." "According to the Department for Transport, there is still £4.5 million left in the fund – enough to fund thousands of extra charge points." https://uk.motor1.com/news/227431/residential-chargepoint-scheme-disappointing/

From my handbook (2016 model RC) "S-FLOW mode When there are no passengers in the rear seats, airflow can be directed to the front seats only to reduce the air conditioning effect on the rear seats. However, depending on both the temperature inside and outside the vehicle, airflow may be directed to the rear seats even though S-FLOW mode is on to maintain comfort inside the vehicle. Press . The indicator comes on when S-FLOW mode is on. Press again to resume airflow to the rear seats."

Does you model/year have the S-Flow option in the heater controls? That option when on can disable airflow to the rear

Agreed, needs clarification as to what would constitute "dangerous"

I have no difficulty in reading, thank you.. I was responding to your statement - I fully understand the regs regarding pre-arranged appointments, which one would have to be able to prove to the constable to avoid a fine. The Police would not need to prove the car is not road worthy, just that one doesn't have a valid certificate. As I said two separate offences.

No MoT certificate would result in a £1000 fine. You could be further penalised if the vehicle is also found to be not road worthy. Two separate offences The current system updates as soon as the tester inputs the results into the national database at the end of the test, when the fail is printed out. The question seems to be is does the fail cancel the previous (and still current) certificate?

Pretty clear TBH - "In both cases, your vehicle still needs to meet the minimum standards of roadworthiness at all times or you can be fined." If the Police stop you and are so inclined, you're going to be done. The big debate has always been if you fail the test but still have a couple of weeks on the 'old' certificate will the APNR ping the car as a fail?

Pretty sure under the current system, if the car failed the test and was not roadworthy you couldn't drive it away, legally. Does this mean under the new system the test centre can prevent you from removing the vehicle other than on a trailer?

Not bothered about the rather paltry weight saving? Then go for the cheaper carbon fibre wrap, none of the downsides and cheap to replace/redo

Funny Car My favourite dragster class

I'd say the brakes would be under stress, resisting the rotation force but as there is no movement there can't be any wear. The stress experienced would be insignificant compared to that exerted when slowing the car from speed? From the link I posted above - "Also the wheel brakes are not rubbing but are stopped and they will not wear at all while holding the forward creep of the car when in D."

As posted some time back.. The IS-F wasn't so lucky!

Judging by the number of cars I see rocking back and forth at lights, I'd say many manual drivers don't bother either and sit there riding the clutch! If the wheels aren't rotating I'm not sue how there can be any wear on the brakes?

There is no need to select neutral, no matter what the transmission type.

You haven't read the info in my link?

This answers a lot of questions regarding this https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/18561/16546

Shifting into N at lights is a definite No,No in a hybrid and not recommended in an automatic either. In the hybrid it means the traction battery can't be recharged, if needed, by the engine. In an automatic it just causes unnecessary wear on the transmission shifter and 'box. It took a while for me to get used to sitting in the car leaving it in the Ready state whilst listening to the radio etc.. Yes the DRLs are on but they draw minimal power, plus in the ready state one benefits from the a/c and heater. The engine will fire up now and again, depending on how long one sits there but it's much less in the summer (no cabin heat required), it's surprising how long the traction battery can power the stationary car. If one powers off and relies on the 12v battery one runs the risk of discharging it and not being able to restart the car. Or perhaps not locking it. Hill Start on my RC is automatic, just come to a stop, the car will not roll back when taking one's foot off the brake and getting on the throttle. Not sure if that's the same with the RX though.