NemesisUK

Try swapping the bulbs over, side to side and see if the flickering moves with it. Would rule out a failing ballast?

If the headlamp units weren't designed (and therefore type approved) for HID or LED then the car will fail the MoT If you replace the complete headlamp unit for HID or LED units then you will also have to retrofit auto-levelling and headlamp wash systems. Best and only cheap legal option, is to fit upgraded bulbs the like of Osram Nightbreakers

Simply Boyle's law in action ...

Remember only check the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, best first thing in the morning before being driven for the first time. Otherwise allow to stand for a good couple of hours after being driven.

COVID-19 is a respiratory infection and as such the only form of transmission is by droplets containing the virus, dispersed through coughing and simple exhalation. These droplets are either caught in the hand or fall on surfaces where the virus can survive for ~72hrs, less on softer surfaces sch as clothing. Droplets exhaled by an infected person, be they symptomatic or asymptomatic, can then be either inhaled by another person directly or picked up from a surface (door handle etc.) and transferred to eyes, nose or mouth by touch with contaminated hands. The virus does not penetrate the skin and must enter the body via a mucosal membrane. Hence the emphasis on social distancing, hand washing and avoiding touching one's face. Bottom line is we are all (well at least 80%) of us going to become infected at some point. The vast majority will survive and establish herd immunity. This hopefully will protect us when the virus returns next season. Unless of course it mutates as do the more common influenza viruses. Either way COVID-19 will in all probability join the other corona-viruses endemic in the human population.

I use a spray wax from Meguiar's

Read here

Have a look in the Navigation handbook https://d24bc9lyrt5en5.cloudfront.net/Customer-Portal-Admin/emanuals/LEXUS/OM76385E.pdf

Could the knock on full lock be the infamous "tyre skip" many owners (myself included) of low profile wide tyred cars complain about? Something to do with the tyre compliance, or lack thereof, at lower temperatures?

Not sure if the same thing but don't some RC-F owners plug an air sampling pipe in the intake box to force more 'noise'? Re meets, check this out

Do you have an empty accessory tray or nothing at all to house a jack? Perhaps the jack was discontinued on MY 2019 cars?

The car will run until powered off, then will not restart until the key is again present.

From the Lexus-tech.eu doc for the Entry and Start System Control. It seems the key fob is constantly listening, rather than transmitting? "i. Battery Saving Function of Electrical Key Transmitter Sub-assembly i. This function cancels the signal reception waiting state of the electrical key transmitter subassembly, reducing the consumption of current from its battery. ii. The electrical key transmitter sub-assembly can be placed into and taken out of battery saving mode. When the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly is in battery saving mode, the entry and start system will not be able to detect the transmitter, as the transmitter will not respond to signals from the vehicle. The function of the entry and start system will not operate if the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly is in battery saving mode. iii. Pressing the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly twice while pressing the lock switch (the indicator light of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly blinks 4 times) selects battery saving mode for the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly. iv. Battery saving mode can be canceled by pressing any switch on the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly." ENTRY AND START SYSTEM CONTROL ENTRY AND START CONTROL.pdf

Replacing the batteries is very do-able and covered in this thread by Britprius

I see it as initially all braking effort is regenerative but as pedal pressure increases mechanical braking force increases. If one can see far enough ahead and gently apply the brakes one can come almost come to a stop just under regenerative braking. As speed drops very low (~10mph?) regen effort is inefficient and braking becomes totally mechanical and one gets that characteristic 'groan' or as my good lady describes it, goose-like honk as one come to a complete stop. Braking has to be "brake by wire" as the internal combustion engine isn't always running to supply vacuum assistance. One can hear the electric pump pressurise the brake fluid reservoir, especially when manoeuvring to park/slow speed crawl in traffic

We have a vaccine for seasonal flu but still approx 15-20,000 die each year. I don't expect it to be any different with COVID-19. We already have 4 corona type viruses endemic in the human population that seasonally account for approx 10% of cold type infections. The uncertainty with COVID-19 is, as it establishes itself in the human population, will it mutate into something far more dangerous to life (as did the 1918 Spanish flu virus)? Until these sorts of things are established nations have to treat it as 'worse case'. As I understand it COVID-19 is a single strand RNA type corona-virus and these don't typically mutate drastically. The genetic code for COVID-19 is known and vaccines have been constructed but these must undergo efficacy and safety testing which take a significant time. Then mass production will take even more time (assuming the selected vaccine can be successfully scaled up) we are already looking to early next year at this stage. Only then can distribution can start but who receives it first? It won't be the general population... Interesting times and certainly the situation will evolve dramatically over the next few weeks.

"Gears to go, brakes to slow" was drummed into me in my early driving days.. In the hybrid gentle braking will be regenerative as already said but one can brake quite firmly and still only use regen, it all depends on road speed and pedal application speed. Using the paddles to slow brings in the engine to slow the car with no benefit from regen. I too have a steep long downhill to my home and always "ride the brakes" to keep within the speed limit. By the time I reach the bottom the traction battery is fully recharged and ready for a silent getaway in the morning! The attached docs from Lexus-Tech.EU (for my RC300h) may be of interest? Brake Control System.pdf HYBRID TRANSMISSION SYSTEM CONTROL SEQUENTIAL SHIFT.pdf

Not the fault of the dealership. Their insurers set the criteria and many now penalise the over 75s and even refuse the over 90s. The dealer did what he could and provided excellent service

Well done, they wouldn't budge when I contacted them, saying I might be better going elsewhere! I can take a hint ...

I went with SAGA this year after many years with Direct Line. The renewal quote from DL was a joke, nearly£200 increase!! SAGA were one of the cheapest and low excess, plus they will hold the premium for three years as long as nothing changes..

Welcome to the club! I made the change from CLS55 to RC300H approx 4yrs ago, now on my second RC and loving it still... Mind you I do miss that supercharged V8..

Is this any use? https://www.marklevinson.com/in-lexus.html#lexus-is

Any additionals to the tow bar required, such as extra cooling for the transmission etc..?

Lexus do a very good kit for cleaning and maintenance of the leather. That said all automotive leather is PU coated so a simple wipe down with a damp cloth is fine. For more dirty seats a mild solution of wool detergent in Luke warm water works well. I wouldn't recommend using conditioners as they simply sit on the surface and attract grit and grime. This then abrades the leather surface, especially in the creases, causing cracks.