sorcerer

Wow, that could have been really nasty. I don't know what you'll be doing about it but I remember a thread from about a year ago where someone got a full exhaust custom made in stainless steel for his RX300 for £395 and it's even guaranteed for the life of the car. If/when I need one for my RX300, that's the way I'm going to go. Found it:

I'm 59 but need business cover for both myself (self-employed computer tech) and my wife (Civil Servant); the car has been modified to run on LPG, and a few other little quirks make car insurance a bit of a nightmare. However, https://www.aplan.co.uk/ were the cheapest by a long way for us and they do seem to be good to deal with so it's got to be worth a bit of time and the price of a call to see what they can do for you.

The RX300 is the same body shell as the 400h and there are loads of RX300s being broken on Ebay so you should have no trouble. Linky to Ebay RX300s EDIT - When you say you've had no luck so far with Ebay, have you just been searching for the item as you normally would do for anything else on Ebay? If so, that's probably why you've not found anything. You have to contact the breaker first, tell them what you want and they'll tell you the price. If the price is good for you, they then list the part and send you an email with a link in for you to 'Buy it Now'. I know that you can't tell from most of the pictures but I'll almost guarantee that at least one of the RX300s being broken will have the bit that you want.

Ok, I admit that I don't have a GS450h, nor have I ever had a 'smart key', but I refuse to believe that the only option is to pay the dealer over £300. There are a few YouTube vids showing locksmiths (as opposed to Lexus main dealers) programming keys, even the 'lost all keys' scenario, so they may be a cheaper option. And I also remain to be convinced that the Techstream software can't do it either but I admit that it's looking less likely that it can.

I'm afraid I haven't got an answer for you but surely, if you've only just got the car then just take it back to the dealer and let them sort it - it's not up to you to find a solution for them.

It is indeed very good. However, beware because you can do some permanent damage with it too. YouTube is a good source of knowledge about using it because almost anything you want to do with it will have been done and videoed by someone else

No offence my friend but do you not have a reputable garage and/or mechanic who knows how to properly diagnose faults and rectify them, rather than just chucking parts and money at it until it's fixed?

It's what I term 'The Lexus Paradox'. People are attracted to the brand in no small part by the legendary reliability and then spend hundreds of pounds per year on Lexus extended warranties because they're worried about the reliability I know this thread is about breakdown cover rather than warranty but personally, it's a must for me. My LPG tank lives where the spare wheel should go so for small punctures I carry a can of goo and a small compressor but if anything were to wreck the tyre such as a puncture in the side wall or a blowout, then it would be a call to the breakdown people.

If anyone's interested, according to this chart it's the T20 7440 base that the WY21W bulb plugs into so that's the set to go for.

Does anyone have any experience of this type of DRL or similar, which is apparently just a direct replacement for the amber indicator bulbs? This particular listing doesn't give the light sequence so I've asked for clarification but from other listings they are supposedly steady white in DRL mode but when in turn mode the white goes off completely and the flash sequence is amber > off > amber > off > amber > off then return to white when the turn is complete. Also, does anyone know the type number of the base that the bulb goes into? Which would I choose, if any, from the list available? EDIT - just noticed on the bulb itself it says WY21W, so presumably it'll be the 3156 that I need.

Me too. I really miss having an adapted 'coin holder' in my RX300

It's been too long since posting the above message so I can't edit it but just been checking and it's an MOT fail if main beams don't operate so if the function is lost it's no good.

Unless it's a very strange car I wouldn't think so, as high beam are (usually) on a separate circuit and fuse to the side lights - but I suppose there could be exceptions.

Sorry Ez, I can't shed any more light on the problem because I haven't got a DVD player or monitors in my RX300 - I just remembered seeing that topic from a while ago so thought it was worth a punt for you. Glad to hear that you've got at least one of your mysterious things sussed out By the way, you've listed your location as Cumbria. We have family in Carlisle so if I see an RX400h knocking around there when we're visiting, is it likely to be you?

Cheers my friend Doh! "This listing has been removed" Thanks anyway

Post No.7 in the topic below contains a link to a DVD player on Ebay that apparently has the correct connections and is only £25 so may be worth a punt?

Excellent! In that case, what make and model are they? Ebay?

Looks alright but not sure if they are legal due to the yellow colour, ie, showing any other colour than white at the front and red at the back.

Rayann is correct to say 180mm but I just wanted to point out that that is the minimum clearance, so presumably it can be higher if so desired. I have no idea what the consequences of that would be, whether it would give a better or worse ride, whether it would be safer or not, I don't know - it just strikes me that as they spec it as a minimum, then there must be room for manoeuvre as it were.

To answer your question, some manufacturers did produce LPG cars (Vauxhall and Volvo amongst them) but they never really sold in great numbers because the great British public never really took to LPG and some people are actually quite scared of it. I'm not sure of the history and timelines but I can say that LPG systems have improved in huge leaps and bounds and to compare modern systems to those of, say, 10 or 15 years ago is like comparing chalk and cheese. I used to have a Nissan Maxima QX 3.0 SEL (Nissan's equivalent of the Lexus LS400) and covered more than 110,000 miles on LPG without a single problem. No loss of performance, no loss of power, seamless changeover from petrol to gas with no jerking or stumbling (and back again if I was silly enough to run out of gas) and no engine problems. Gas is better for the engine (9k miles between oil changes and using LPG the oil comes out almost as clean as it went in), better for the environment and much better on the wallet! My installer did say that almost all Jap engines need Flashlube (or similar) to avoid valve seat recession so I made sure it never ran out of that and I had no problems. Maybe your installer either didn't do the job right or didn't match the LPG system to the car properly or didn't set it up correctly? I have no idea why you had such trouble but I can categorically say that that is not normal and something was definitely wrong. I've now done over 13,000 miles in my RX300 since it was converted last year and it runs like a dream - looking forward to many more cheap miles to come

I'm no expert by any means but I don't think so, not in that context anyway. The car ECU still sends signals to the petrol injectors but the LPG system captures those signals and diverts them to the LPG ECU and injectors instead. Whatever the car would do, the car still thinks and believes it is doing on petrol, so if it's in hybrid mode and then it needs to fire up the engine, the car will send the signals to fire up the engine and it will do - but just on gas rather than petrol. Like I say though I have no idea what I'm talking about really, I just drive a non-hybrid LPG-powered car but I really don't know how it works - black magic and witchcraft come to mind

I wouldn't think of it as 5-10 litres being 20-30 miles range or even as being "quite a lot" but rather 'would the petrol in the tank cover my fuel pump?' because if not then it's not being cooled or lubricated. Ok, it may not be long after the light comes on before you put more petrol in the tank but if the fuel pump is not immersed in fuel on a regular basis (even if only for minutes at a time) then the cumulative effect may lead to problems later. Is it really worth the risk? You have to have petrol and you will put it in anyway, so why not just put it in earlier?

I suppose the OP has got things sorted by now being as it was from February, but for future reference if anyone needs it, Car Parts Direct are a great company to deal with. Very reasonable pricing, very knowledgeable and helpful, speedy - in fact, all-round 'good eggs'

As I said just yesterday in a different topic, the main reason for not running the petrol tank dry is that in petrol injection systems the fuel pump is actually inside the fuel tank and is cooled and lubricated by the fuel itself - no fuel means no cooling or lubrication for the pump, possibly leading to other (no doubt expensive) problems. So when you say "but interested to know for sure how far it will go in an emergency" the best answer is to never find out - never let it get to that emergency situation. I would never let my cars get below 1/4 full.

Not sure what that has to do with the fuel pump being immersed in and cooled/lubricated by the fuel itself?