sorcerer

Doh, sorry - just realised that I didn't include the link to the previous topic

The only reason screws bugger up in the first place is by not using the correct size screwdriver. Believe me, my sausages are so fat that I can, and often do, easily hit more than one key at a time on any computer keyboard, but it's nothing to do with that. If you have a set of watchmakers or jewellers screwdrivers, just pick the one that looks closest to doing the job and gently try it for location and grip in the screw head - you'll know when you've got the right size. If the screw head still buggers up, a Dremel (or similar tool) with a drill bit the same width as the screw head can be used to gently drill off the head. This will allow the case to be opened and there may just be enough of the screw shaft to grip with pliers to unscrew it, but if not, just drill the shaft out too.

Have a look at the following topic from a while ago, particularly to post No.4 and the video it links to. You were talking about possibly getting a code reader but if you have a laptop (if not, a Windows XP laptop can be had for peanuts these days) to install Techstream on, it'll do SO much more than a code reader will, including coding keys.

Probably me just being a bit thick (as usual) Denis but I'm not quite sure what you mean? If you mean that it's no hardship to use the key manually, I'm sure it isn't. However, why would you not carry out such an easy repair, when it is so easy?

I'm past the time for editing the post above but you may even be able to drill all the way through and use a small machine screw and nut to close the case if you prefer.

I'm sure I remember seeing a post on this forum saying that if the car has the reversing camera then parking sensors were not a factory fit but were a dealer option, so it may not have them. If parking sensors are fitted you'll see (usually) four ultrasonic transducers about the size of a 5p or 10p coin mounted in the rear bumper. The fact that the dealer didn't know if they were fitted or not does not give me a sense of confidence in that dealership and in fact would make me look elsewhere. Have to admit that I'm not sure but would think that having a manual switch would be a very bad idea. I can envisage a situation where you forget to switch them on and bump into something. They need to be activated when reverse gear is selected.

Just drill it out and use a small self-tapper to close the case after replacing the battery - two minutes of a job and Robert is your mother's brother.

What Steve said above. I'm lucky in that I live about a mile from CPC so I just call in for mine. Key fobs of any make usually take 'button' cells, maybe CR2032, CR2016 or similar.

This is the code reader I got a while ago but I think almost any of the ones available on eBay will do. Alternatively, if you have a laptop you could get a MiniVCI cable from eBay and install Techstream, the Toyota diagnostic software, which does a lot more than just read and delete codes.

Glad you got your car and that you like it, they are indeed brilliant cars. We've had ours about 16 or 17 months now and done something like 17,000 miles and every time I get in it I still get a big grin on my face I don't know who makes the OEM parts but the rest of your question is answered above (point No.4 in the second post).

Just out of curiosity I googled the phrase "RX400h equipment specifications" (without the quotes) and the very first hit was this pdf file, of which Page 21 shows the equipment levels. LEXUSRX400h.pdf

May be worth investing in some AlloyGator or Rimblades protectors too, once it's repaired.

Excellent! And yes, those empty lenses are just crying out to be used I'm sure that being (in your own words) a 'Halfords Monkey' you already know this, but that line above makes it sound like you're going to wire the DRLs to come on with the sidelights, which you don't want to do - they have to go off when the sidelights come on.

Have a look here https://www.lifewire.com/why-your-bluetooth-wont-pair-534650

Does it give any error messages or will it just not find your phone?

And the result was?

Try http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q.html

Not just Toyota and Lexus but all hybrids.

Sounds like you took your car to a body shop to have your lights refurbed instead of doing it yourself, so if you don't mind me asking, what did they charge and do you know what they used for a UV-resistant top coat?

I think the thing here is that he seems to have found an unused lampholder within the fog light unit. Perhaps a bulb is fitted in there in some parts of the world, possibly even for daytime running lights, but maybe the UK market didn't get them for some reason. Lee said - Isn't the issue with the MOT that you would be changing the purpose of the lights e.g. fog lamps (if you took that option) and Phil said - Additional or optional lights may be a loophole but the proximity of the fog light is a cause for concern , clause" f " Personally, I don't think either will apply because: a) He isn't changing the purpose of the lights; the fog lights will still be there to be used as fog lights. He's just making use of a 'redundant' lampholder within the unit for a separate purpose. b) Although the lights would be physically very close to one another, one cannot adversely affect the other because as long as they are wired up correctly, they can never be on together. Daytime running lights must go off when the sidelights are switched on so that no one is dazzled by the bright DRLs when driving in the dark. Fog lights can only be switched on when the sidelights are on, so they can never be on at the same time as the DRLs.

I'm not an MOT Inspector so there may be something somewhere that I've missed but looking in the MOT Inspection Manual, the only time I can see DRLs mentioned is below:

Aha, right, I see now I suppose you've got three options and it's just deciding which will look the best. 1. Do as you first thought - DRL in bumper next to fogs, indicator above 2. Replace indicator bulb with the LEDs I've got, which gives DRL in main light cluster 3. Replace indicator bulb with the LEDs I've got, which gives DRL in main light cluster and also put DRL next to fogs so you've got DRLs above and below. Keep us informed

The idea of these kits though is to replace the indicator bulbs (as long as you have amber bulbs behind clear lenses), not have a second one (or have I misunderstood the layout of your light units? Probably have). I'm not sure if they'll fit in your units but you can see how they fit in my RX300 here: Brilliant, thanks for that.

If the central locking is working then that proves the battery is ok but it definitely does have a bearing on the immobiliser. It sounds like the immobiliser has somehow been corrupted and needs to be reprogrammed so have a look on YouTube to see how to do it and give it a try.

Two things my friend: 1. Regarding your idea for daytime running lights - I don't know if this is worth considering in your situation but all I can say is that I've put them on my RX300 and they are excellent Link to eBay switchback LED flasher/DRL 2. Which UV protector clear coat did you use after polishing up your headlamps? I've got a 3M Headlamp Restoration Kit but don't want to start the job until I can get a decent UV protector.