sorcerer

I would imagine that if you take the tailgate trim off so that you expose all the gubbins underneath, your solution will readily present itself - possibly under that black triangular bit that I circled in red:

No, not at all, only way to stop the dimming is to turn it off with the switch on the interior mirror. Even then it's not instantaneous and it takes quite a few seconds to become 'clear'.

To be honest, the auto dimming mirrors can be a pain in the rear. It's normal for the interior rear view mirror to auto dim but I've not had a car before where the door mirrors also dim. Initially, it seems like a good idea and it may well be on the open road, but not when reversing. I used to be a telephone engineer on BT and many years of driving my BT van means that instead of twisting round in my seat to look out of the rear window, I'm far more used to, and far more comfortable, with using the door mirrors to reverse. However, the dimming mirrors combined with the abysmal reversing lights of the RX300/RX400h make it almost impossible to see anything behind the car and I scraped the gatepost once, which cost me £180 to put right. In fact, someone hit my driver's door mirror and I replaced it with 'normal' non-dimming glass and it's so much better now.

I currently have a Nextbase 402G but I don't think it'll last much longer as I accidentally sat on it. It still records ok (for now) but the screen is damaged, making playback impossible unless it's connected to a TV or computer. A strong contender for when I replace it in the not too distant future is the Viofo A119S

For the love of a cosmic deity, who would be SO stupid as to do this - and above all, WHY??? Full horrendous details here

You are allowed to say Amazon - or eBay or wherever

Hot air rises so the best way of heating the cabin is to have the air come out at the lowest point and it warms things up as it rises. If your hands are cold or if the screen needs defrosting then you can manually point the air where you want it, but on auto, it'll always come out of the footwell. During summer the air will usually come out of the higher vents because cold air falls.

What utterly ridiculous prices for such a simple thing! Take your existing metal plate to a sheet metal fabricators and ask them to make a new plate to the same dimensions and to also laser cut the lettering. Then glue a small, thin piece of opaque perspex (from eBay/Homebase/B&Q) on the back side to allow the light through - simples! Or, a variation on the theme: get them to cut the oblong out of the new plate, put the opaque perspex on the back side, then use some 'Blue Peter-type' sticky-backed plastic to copy the lettering onto the perspex. I'm too warm and cosy to go out and look at my RX300 to see if it's the 'LEXUS' that lights up or the surround that lights up, but this should start you thinking about a cheap alternative way of making your own plates. Or even just take your own existing plates and get them to laser cut the lettering then do the thing with the perspex.

I think this article may be of help in this discussion.

Yes, true, sorry - my fault for trying to do three things at once and not doing any of them particularly well today

Surely that points to an ECU fault then doesn't it? If sensors and loom are disconnected from the ECU but the ECU is still putting the light on, it can only be an ECU problem. Maybe corroded/wet/shorted connections or some electronics problem within the ECU itself maybe?

Taking your last question first, I don't know what size/shape indicator bulbs your car uses so I don't really know. My RX300 uses a WY21W, which is a wedge base, amber, 21W bulb and in the picture below, the LEDs I needed were the ones with the T20 7440 base. Yours may be different but I'm sure it'll be one of the four available. If your manual doesn't help, just pull an existing bulb out and compare. The only other thing to take into account is the physical size of the bulb itself: Technically, daytime running lights should only be on while the engine is running rather than coming on when the key is in the ACC or IGN positions but mine come on when the key is in the IGN position. I only found out a couple of days ago that the proper way of doing it is to wire them up to the alternator so that they only come on when the alternator starts to charge the battery which, of course, only happens when the engine is running. You'll also have to buy a couple of automotive relays (about £4 or £5 each) because the DRLs must turn off when the sidelights are turned on so that no one gets dazzled by bright LEDs in the dark. If you're not sure how to wire them up I'll draw out a circuit diagram for you if you like, but that'll be tomorrow because I've got a very early start in the morning so off to bed now Oh, and they just flash as normal when you put the hazards on, just as ordinary bulbs would. Hope that helps, John

Doesn't that mean that you have to have your side/tail/numberplate lights on all the time as well? The foglights on my RX300 only get power when the sidelights are on. I used those dual colour switchback LEDs on mine in place of the indicator bulbs and they do work really well (video here):

Brilliant, thanks, just ordered one now.

May be an idea to install these dual-colour switchback LEDs to give you daytime running lights too.

Have you got a link for that please?

Could be as simple as cleaning the throttle body or as serious as needing a new motor I suppose.

This is Preston town centre. The road going across is Fishergate and is one-way, the direction of flow being right to left and, as you can see, it's just one lane with wide pavements. One numpty decided he didn't want to go round the one-way system to get back to Chapel St:

Not sure about your other questions but this is the second hit in Google when I just searched for "RX400h traction battery voltage"

Hmm, I'd obviously imbibed slightly too much alcohol last night as I've just re-read my post and I missed out the important bit! What I meant to say was that, due to the modern practice of shrinking credits to run trailers for upcoming shows, they have become completely unreadable.

If only that was possible. I'm a big music fan and I'd say that a good 15% of my music collection has come about because of watching a TV programme or film or whatever, hearing some music that I like, and then finding out what it is and who it is from the credits. At least with music, there are apps like Soundhound and Shazam to help identify it but for products like watches, I don't think there's any chance.

Just read the whole post I made, it's quite clear, but to summarise: Let's say that I buy a car on my credit card and something goes wrong with it, maybe the engine explodes. I go back to the dealer I bought it from, only to find they've gone bust so I can't get them to pay for repairs. Section 75 says that my credit card provider has to make things right for me because they are jointly responsible with the company that sold me the car. If I had used my debit card instead, my bank would be under no legal obligation to do anything for me, or they may offer something 'as a goodwill gesture'. Ergo, a debit card provides nowhere near as much protection as a credit card would if things go wrong. And now I'm cracking open a beer!

You said: I use my 'debit card' for 'direct debits', in fact all my 'direct debits'. I was pointing out that it is impossible to use a debit card for a direct debit payment. It's called "Direct Debit" because the person or body that you are paying requests it directly from your bank and your bank pays it directly to them. There is no facility for you to use a debit card in a direct debit situation even if you wanted to.

You asked me: and I replied yes, then went on to explain why I used my credit card rather than my debit card because that's what your question implied you were asking. If I've got that wrong, please explain what you were asking and I'll do my best to answer.

No, a debit card is what you take to the shop with you to pay for goods. A 'direct debit' is an electronic transaction that you authorise once (say to pay your Council Tax) but then your involvement ends for the next 12 months, until renewal time. The monthly 'direct debit' payments are made by your bank directly to your council on your behalf and there is no physical card involved.