sorcerer

No offence meant Peter but questions like this always make me wonder why this is relevant to anyone? Why not just fill up when the needle indicates 1/4 tank or before. Before I converted to LPG I would never go below 1/4 tank of petrol because all sorts of nasty things can happen so it's just not worth the risk. If you always fill up before, or at, the 1/4 mark, you'll never need to know the answer

I think it may be a matter of interpretation because I read it as three separate items, ie, a back plate could be loose, missing or excessively deteriorated, a wheel cylinder could be loose, or excessively deteriorated.or a caliper securing device that could be loose, missing or excessively deteriorated.

I don't know your MOT guy so I have no axe to grind with him or you, but with the greatest of respect it's written in black and white (and even yellow ) above, directly in the MOT Inspection Manual, so how can he possibly be correct? mot-inspection-manual-classes-3-4-5-and-7.pdf

Nope, definitely not an MOT failure if they are not there. EDIT: I hold my hand up and admit I'm wrong. I always thought it would pass if they just weren't there but ths, from the MOT Inspection Manual, says otherwise:

Brilliant, thanks Carl.

In that case then, turn the radio up

It depends if you want photochromic ones that dim or not. I don't like the outside mirrors dimming so when I needed a replacement glass for my RX300 driver's side, I got a 'normal' glass one with heater element for £15, brand new from eBay and it works a treat.

Can you record it? What do you mean by "The fuse was pulled *with the wheel in a good position*" and has it really 'killed' both motors?

No, there's no 'fan belt' and no traditional alternator, it's charged directly from the traction battery.

No Norman, this would have happened during the manufacture of the unit. One aspect of electrical current flow is that it generates heat. Every time that unit is powered up the solder joints will heat up and then cool down when it's switched off. If there's been a manufacturing defect like a dry solder joint, the thing may work for years but, after hundreds or maybe thousands of thermal cycling events, the faulty joint breaks down and the unit ceases to work in one way or another.

As always, Google (and Wikipedia) are your friends From Wikipedia: A "dry joint" occurs when the cooling solder is moved, and often occurs because the joint moves when the soldering iron is removed from the joint. An improperly selected or applied flux can cause joint failure. If not properly cleaned, a flux may corrode the joint and cause eventual joint failure.

Yes, that's true. I used to have a Nissan Maxima QX SE+ before getting the RX300 - they're now down to 42 left. Mind you, having a rare car is not necessarily a good thing as spares were difficult to come by from breakers yards and sometimes even more difficult from Nissan. I was once told by a dealer that if it needed a headlight unit it would have to be from a breakers as there were no official stocks in Europe or even Japan - the whole car could have been written off or scrapped for the sake of a headlamp unit.

No, the small 12V battery powers the entry/exit systems and all the computers to get the car to the 'Ready' state, after that everything is powered by the traction battery.

There's also a website https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/ that shows how many cars of a certain make and model are still around.

I know they're in business to make money and I have no problem with anyone making a FAIR profit but the money they want to make is nowhere near fair as far as I'm concerned.

True, but that takes at least 20 minutes and you get follow-up calls and/or emails, which is a lot more hassle than you folks on here just typing four characters such as £542...£673...£367...etc and me just averaging the results

I know that any answers I get will have to be taken with a pinch of salt because insurance premiums vary wildly around the country, by occupation, by which way the wind is blowing and by what colour socks you have on, but I'd just like to see if I can get a general 'ballpark' figure, so I'd be grateful if anyone with a 62/13-plated RX450h F-Sport could tell me how much they pay please. Thanks

Go on Carl, I'd like to know your full routine because that looks amazing!

What an awful colour!!!

Stormtroopers look happy if they wear their helmets upside down - maybe because they're thinking about the car

All good advice apart from, maybe, the "go to Lexus to have it repaired". As a telephone engineer on BT, I've worked on the telephone systems of most major dealers such as Ford, Nissan, Vauxhall, Audi, Mercedes etc., etc., and I can say that none of them, not a single one that I've ever been in, have their own body shops - they just farm out bodywork to other companies. Admittedly, I've never worked in a Lexus dealership because we haven't got one here in Preston, but I'd bet a week's wages that they are no different to the others and will also farm out body repairs to local body repairs companies. Maybe you could find out where they send them out to and then go directly there if you want to, but if you go to Lexus, I'm sure they'll just add on their cut, thereby adding to the costs.

The picture may show a pack of 10 but I'd be inclined to think that the picture is there in error because the advert clearly states it's for one valve cap:

WOW!!! That is indeed insane! Thank goodness for eBay eh?

That's downright disgusting, he should have recommended a Sony Xperia!

Martin, drop me an email at jhewitt1958@gmail.com for further discussion on this subject. John