sorcerer

Even better is to do six mix CDs and then play on Random so you really never know what's coming up next.

Does it run correctly on petrol only or does it put the EML light on? If you've never had LPG before you may not know how it works. The car's ECU still sends signals to the petrol injectors and the car still thinks it's running on petrol, but in reality, the gas ECU intercepts those signals, modifies them and sends them to the gas injectors instead, so it has to be running perfectly on petrol first before you can even begin to look at the gas system. If you've got an MOT to pass soon, I would suggest that now, when the EML is already on, is perhaps not the best time to start learning something new. Take it to a professional with a good reputation to get this immediate problem sorted and then you can learn at your leisure when it's not critical and you have more time. One thing you perhaps could do is that when it goes for MOT you can choose to present it on petrol or gas, so if you took the fuse out of the gas system and presented it on petrol alone (as long as the EML doesn't come on on petrol) you may get it through.

Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen2 are truly excellent in all conditions. Sent from my D6633 using Tapatalk

Absolutely not normal. I've driven more than 200,000 trouble-free miles in LPG cars and none of them had the EML on - there's a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed.

Well you can't. That's why you take it to an aircon specialist - for them to run a full diagnostic test on it. The one thing that you can do yourself to give you an indication of gas level, is that they have a sight glass in the system. Here's a guide on using the sight glass but there are also plenty of videos around too - just Google "check car aircon refrigerant level" (without the quotes) to see how to do it.

No, it doesn't have a dual function, it doesn't work like that. Ignoring the air 'conditioning' side (drying, pollen removal etc) for the moment, the aircon makes the air cool (cold) - that's all it does. A motorised flap somewhere in the vent system directs the airflow onto the windscreen or otherwise. The flap itself is not part of the aircon system and does nothing to the temperature of the air that passes over it, it's purely for direction of airflow. Your screen will clear at a higher temperature (for the sake of argument let's say 17C) than what the aircon will be set at when you want to cool down on a hot day (say, 13C) hence why you think your aircon is 'working' on your screen but 'not working' to cool the cabin down. Like I said above, you should be able to get the cabin down to uncomfortably low temperatures. If it's not doing that then it isn't working.

It's to cool the traction battery. On my car there are vents under the seats that MUST NOT be blocked, I'm assuming your car is the same, so don't put shopping bags or coats on the floor in front of them.. EDIT: Just found a photo and I'm assuming that this is one of the traction battery fan vents on yours:

Well it's obviously not working then. Demisting the windscreen is almost a secondary use of AC, the primary goal being to provide cool (cold) air when the weather is hot and also to condition the air. If it was working properly you should be able to get the cabin very cold, in fact, too cold for comfort really - I seem to remember reading that it should go down to about 5C. My old Granada used to form frost on the AC pipes in the engine bay but I've never looked to see if this car is the same.

Sorry, I've not done that move so I can't offer an answer, but I'm just curious as to what you expect? They're both Lexus hybrids so you'll be familiar with that aspect. One is a 'car', the other is an 'SUV' so there's an obvious size difference, but other than that, what can be said?

I had a similar experience but a bit of experimentation showed that I hadn't closed the pouch properly and I'm sure yours will be the same. Unless the mesh has been physically torn or damaged then it's impossible for it to just 'give up' working. Although you can't see them, radio waves at this wavelength act like physical things and as long as the mesh bag isn't damaged then it still physically keeps the radio waves trapped in there.

Really great diagnostic skills in evidence there. Take it to a proper aircon specialist such as https://www.coolcaraircon.co.uk/ or http://kevingreenaircon.co.uk/ for example.

Oh right, fair enough, I didn't know that - seems very counter-intuitive. I know they can be colour-matched to your car but I thought you bought them that way, rather than painting later. As me old Granny used to say, "You learn something new every day"

I would think you'll need to replace them - I can't think of anything you could use to get the new paint off without also removing the original colour. Plus, if you didn't get rid of every last drop of paint you may get incorrect and inconsistent range-finding, possibly resulting in dings. They work by emitting ultrasonic sound waves and measuring the time for the wave to be reflected back, so a clear surface, not blocked with paint, is an absolute must. Who paints over ultrasonic transducers? Bloody numpties!

Try this guy on eBay. That's a link to an RX300 key that I got from him but he'll most likely do the IS300 as well.

If no one can suggest a good garage, have a look at your local Trading Standards website. Up here we have Lancashire Safe Traders, which is run by our local Trading Standards and allows people to give feedback on various traders, so that you know you can choose someone with a good reputation.

What's wrong with you people? Garages aren't for keeping cars in anyway, they are mainly used as storage sheds and workshops as far as I'm aware. Open the front doors of our garage and starting on the left you'll see a beer fridge, some garden tools and then shelving/racking and workbenches follow the walls in a U shape all the way back up to the front. The car lives on the driveway, not in the garage

Take it back to the trader/dealer you bought it from and get them to put it right because I think I'm right in saying that, by law, they have to give you a minimum of three months warranty. Also, would this not cast doubt on the validity of that new MOT performed just a month ago?

Touché John

It would be highly unlikely that the traction (hybrid) battery would fail as a complete unit. The batteries are made up of cells and individual cells can be replaced, like this one, for instance. Repair places like this one also exist.

It swivels the lights right/left as you turn the steering wheel.

@Haylands is the man to ask - he knows the 430 inside out.

Well he did say that it was a 2007 car and if you look closely you can see that the rest of the plate is blocked out, plus the two numbers aren't central on the plate, so as they say on that 'Through the keyhole', "the clues were there" although why people bother doing that I'll never know.

Quite simply, things age and the chemistry changes. You obviously had to drive to Halfords so the charging circuit has been doing its job and the battery was well charged at the time of the test. The age and altered chemistry mean that it no longer holds charge as well as it used to. Maybe if it had been stood outside Halfords for four hours before testing then it wouldn't have looked so good. The trouble now is, do you just change the battery anyway in the hope that it is the age that's causing the problem, or do you spend some money for an auto-electrician* to do some diagnostics first in case something else is causing the battery drain? If you've got a clamp ammeter and a decent multimeter and know how to use them properly you could do some initial diagnostics yourself. * And I do mean a proper auto-electrician/auto-electrical specialist who has done a proper apprenticeship to the job, not a Halfords guy or a 'normal' garage. EDIT: Just to add to the above. When I was an apprentice electrician I worked in a factory that had a mechanic's workshop for maintenance and servicing of their own trucks and other vehicles. I don't know why but they decided it would be good for the apprentice electricians to spend a month in the garage learning about auto electrics, which I must admit, was quite interesting. I remember using a vehicle battery 'heavy discharge tester' and, although I'm going back to about 1976/77, a lead-acid battery is still a lead-acid battery so this should still hold good. My memory is a bit hazy but I seem to remember that the tester used a load to draw about 300A from the battery and if left on for about 30 seconds, the battery voltage shouldn't drop below 10V. If there were any duff cells, they would usually show themselves by bubbling and gassing quite rapidly whilst the good cells were 'quiet'. Now, it's been a long time since those days so don't take that as gospel, but I'm just thinking that maybe Halfords didn't do such a test?

Impossible to say really Peter, the question is too vague - could be a hundred different things making lots of different noises. Is it a growl? A whistle? A ticking? A whooshing? A knocking? A buzzing? etc., etc., etc Can you record it and put it up on here so that we can hear it?

The RX300 is already a very thirsty beast, so I think sticking a spare wheel up on the roof would drop your fuel economy even further. I've driven LPG for about 10, 12 or perhaps even more years and all I did was to carry a can of Holts Tyre Weld goo and a small 12V compressor. They would take care of any small punctures and the breakdown cover would take care of anything bigger, and that's even doing round trips to Poland, Czech Republic and most of eastern Europe - never carried a spare wheel anywhere. As an aside, 60L is a bit small, so it may be worth changing for a bigger one if possible. Our RX300 had an 85L tank and I could get up to 74L in it. Anyway, welcome to the club Antonio and let's see some pictures of your new beast over in the dedicated RX forum. There's a lot of very knowledgeable folks here so someone should be able to help if you ever have problems. Cheers, John