Britprius

I am in receipt of a check from the DVLA for a refund after sorning my car. The check is made out to me but my name is miss spelled on the check effectively changing my name. I am in lock down because of my age, and health conditions. My nearest bank is a 20 mile round trip away, and it is most unlikely they would accept the check even if I could get it there. The DVLA will not accept phone calls or Emails "I have sent them an Email, but they only reply by saying they will not respond to non essential workers" so I cannot discus this problem with them. I pay my road tax by direct debit so why can they not refund the monies direct to my bank account the way it was taken? Surely thousands of people will have sorned there cars, and with issuing checks caused many thousands of non essential journeys to be carried out. I contacted my local police asking if this would be considered an essential journey? and was told if I needed to ask I already know the answer. I take this as a no. John.

If your going to do this you should also change the rear axle drive motor fluid. Be wary of using other than the Toyota fluid as it is a requirement for the oil to be a good electrical insulator as the winding's of the motor generators that are supplied with 650 volts run in this oil. John.

I would remove the oil pan, and change the filter as well to get the best results. John.

Apart from cars another use of large lead acid batteries is in industrial forklift trucks, golf buggies, the old style milk floats, and powered hand operated trolleys. These tend to be charged at high rates because they have high AH capacity batteries often in to the thousands of AH against the 40 to 70 AH typically used in cars.They are charged at 80 amps or more usually over night so that they can be used during the day. These batteries need constant electrolyte level checking, and topping up with distilled water. When on charge they should be in an area that there is no source of combustion, and well ventilated. Large amounts of hydrogen, and oxygen are given off and explosions are a real risk. These batteries area designed so that individual cells can be removed, and changed when they become sulphated. John.

Lexus say you can use similar high quality ethylene glycol based non silicate, non nitrate, non borate coolant, with long life organic acid technology. Ring Halfords, and ask. I see no harm in using it for a short period as long as your not mixing the two coolants. But the Lexus coolant is designed to last 10 years so I would change it out within one year for the correct fluid. I was able to get 5ltrs of genuine fluid delivered from Ebay within 2 days. Providing it is only for a short period plain water can be used as long as it is drained before refilling with the correct fluid. John.

Perhaps I did over simplify the fitting of new wheel studs. It is required to remove or swing the brake calipers out of the way before the discs will slide off the studs. There is however large hole or gaps in areas of the back plates to pass even the longest studs through. Having done this recently to change a front bearing hub I know just how much room there is. John.

Why do you need a garage to fit them? The old ones just knock out with a hammer, and the new ones just pull back into place as you tighten the wheel nuts. John.

If you look at the receipted the correct oil 0w16 is listed, but then they put 0w20 into the car. I would return, and ask for the correct grade to be installed. Using the correct grade 0w16 according to the manufacturers should more than save the cost of the oil on fuel saving in the OCI. John.

The word still comes from my age. I remember using these filters in the 1950's/60's "the canister filter was not available then", and the paper element was the norm. At leased then the filter housing was invariably vertical, and could be removed without to much spillage, and with a simple spanner. With the horizontal orientation used by Toyota/Lexus oil spillage is almost inevitable, and requires special tools to remove. John.

Lexus dealers are wise to the rear caliper slide pins seizing, but still do not grease them as part of the service. If it's not on the service list it's not done. They wait for them to seize then sell you new calipers. If they did service them they would last the life of the car. John.

From the fault code description it sounds likely you have an inverter fault according to my list of codes, and confirmed by your code reader. A subscription to Lexus workshop manuals on line would be a good starting point. John.

If you change the pads in the normal way, and operate the brake pedal to push the knew pads up to the disc before going to ready mode all should be well. John.

I am about to change the oil in my GS450H. I was using 0w20, but iI am changing to 0w16. Not the reason for going to 0w16, but I find it cheaper than 0w20. Most manufacturers say it will give even better ware protection, and better fuel economy. If the manufacturers figures are true the saving in fuel between oil changes will more than pay for the oil. Using 0w20 in my engine at 145,000 miles did not show any increase in oil consumption that at worst is minimal dropping only slightly on the dipstick between 10,000 mile OCI. If my oil consumption doubles using 0w16 I can live with that as it will still not require topping up between oil changes. My oil usage is zero at the moment with the car SORNed for the duration of Corona. As far as oil filters go I cannot understand why Toyota/Lexus still use the replacement paper element filter or the fact that they are more expensive than the metal can type of filter. After all the can type still has the paper element inside plus a non return/drain back valve that is missing in the paper version, and must be more expensive to produce. Or is this a case of rip off Britain again?

I did a front to rear service on my wife's 2006 Aygo today at 76,000 miles. I stripped the brakes front, and rear, changed the oil, and filter, changed the air filter, plugs, AC filter, flushed the brake fluid, changed the gear oil, and reset the clutch adjustment with Techstream "MMT version automatic". Things were so easy to do, and there being no problems what so ever I was finished by lunch time. This car amazes me as after 14 years everything on the car still looks near new, and works. I then decided as I was on a roll I would change the plugs on the GS450H. This turned out to be easier than at first it seemed. A couple of the plugs were alarmingly tight even after they started to turn, but a little WD40 down the plug holes, and turning back, and forth soon got them freed. After removal they still look in very good condition with the gap still well within tolerance, and virtually no carbon build up. I do not know how many miles they have done. I have done 60,000 miles in the car, and have never changed them. They were still fit for many more miles. Next job is the engine coolant pump, and antifreeze change then engine oil "with 0w16 oil", and filter. When this is completed If I can manage lying on the ground I am going to change the transmission oil pump bearings. John.

The compressor in the hybrid Toyota/Lexus vehicles is a sealed unit much like you fridge or freezer. However it is a scroll compressor directly driven by a 3 phase AC variable speed motor immersed in the same oil, and gas as the compressor so there is no need for a rotary seal. The oil, and gas help cool the motor, and this is why the oil used in the AC system is very specific as it must also have high voltage electrical insulation properties. The oil is designated ND11. Normal AC systems use PAG oil, but this oil is conductive to electricity, and under no circumstances should it "or even equipment contaminated with it" be used to refill the AC system. If the AC system does become contaminated with even a small amount of PAG oil a ground fault will occur in the motor perhaps weeks or months later. This will force a high voltage leak code, and shut down the car completely for safety reasons. John.

Yes it does, but all the power to run the fan, charge the 12v battery, "the reason why we are running the engine" and running the AC compressor comes from the HV battery. The HV battery is only being charged at a low rate with the engine ticking over, and when the engine shuts down because it is warm it is not being charged at all. It is then being discharged at a high rate trying to run the compressor, and supplying all the 12v loads "screen, pumps, cabin fan ect". There is no regen from where it would normally get most of it's power. So what I am saying is running the AC uses power that could be charging the 12v battery, and further the HV battery will suffer the greatest loss. Try it and watch the bands on the HV battery display vanish. John.

Running the AC could be self defeating for charging both the 12 volt battery and the HV battery. To run the AC the cabin fan needs to be on using the 12 volt battery, and on your hybrid the compressor can use up to around 5000 watts of energy from the HV battery to run it along with it's other duty of charging the 12 volt battery. The compressor is not engine driven, and does not have a rotary shaft seal associated with normal engine driven compressors as a source of leakage. John.

You can trickle charge the UX battery in fact if the car is not being used I would go as far as to say it is essential to keep the 12 volt battery in good condition. It is not necessary to disconnect the ground lead, and if you do you will need to reset the electric windows, and sun roof after reconnecting. The engine ECU will also then have to relearn your driving style. Disconnecting the ground lead is more for circumstances where a high rate of charge is used with items like the chargers used in garages. Running the car in park will charge the battery, but 30 minutes should be plenty. Remember the 12 volt battery will being charged if the car is in ready mode, and park even if the engine is not running "it will shut down when it has warmed up as long as you do not have the heater fan on". The car has no alternator so the engine does not need to run unless it is charging the HV battery. John.

I was about to submit a post along the same theme. After re reading Krzysztof's post realized the bolt concerned only holds the "U" bracket over the "D" shaped rubber mount, and is not a critical or high loaded component. However erring on the side of safety is never a bad philosophy. John.

Today as hoped on the dot of 10 am the postman bought my caliper repair kit from Bigg Red. Fitting was the order of the day. After removing the the nearside front wheel I then removed the inner brake pad. It was the inner lower caliper piston that was seized because of a hole in the dust cover letting in water. After blocking the top piston I operated the brake pedal till it went hard. Checking the caliper I found the seized piston had been pushed up to the disc. I then removed the two caliper holding bolts and put a wood block between the upper two pistons.. After clamping the brake hose I put a "G" clamp onto the lower outside piston, tightening the clamp. This pushed that piston in and the inside piston out. Cleaning up the caliper bore with some paper towels I inspected it, and found that the inner bore behind the seal to be in very good condition. The outer bore to the outside of the seal was rusty in places as was the piston. I cleaned up the outer bore with emery paper then hooked out the seal. I then thoroughly cleaned the area around the piston entry including the grove where the dust seal fits. Then washed it with brake cleaner blowing away all the fluid, and dirt with compressed air. After lightly greasing the new seal with the grease supplied I fitted it in it's groove. Then the new piston was give a wipe with brake cleaner, and a fresh paper towel then greased with the same grease. After slackening the bleed nipple i pushed the piston into the caliper bore feeling it entre the seal, and push all the way home. The dust seal was then greased, and fitted over the end of the caliper piston, and then over the groove in the caliper it's self. I then refitted the caliper, and disc pads. After removing the brake hose clamp I found the brakes bleeding themselves by gravity so I fitted a hose to the bleed nipple, and into a jar. I then topped up the brake fluid in the container. When I was sure there were no more air bubbles coming from the bleed nipple I tightened it up. After pushing the brake pedal a few time to push the pads up to the disc I had a really good brake pedal. My intention is to do a brake flush using Techstream in the next few days, but for now the car can be moved around knowing the brakes do work Some might say why did you not do all four pistons? My answer is the piston seized due to water entering through a split in the dust cover. This then holds the water inside causing rust, and seizing. After inspecting the other three caliper piston dust covers they were found to be in very good order. I then work on the principle if it ain't broke don't fix it. I have three new piston, and seal assemblies in stock that will fit either side of the car should a problem arise. John.

This from a company that quoted me £1600 for my GS450h that I pay £268 fully comp with all the bells, and whistles in the real world with well known companies. It would be refreshing if they cannot be competitive just to say so instead of offering to insure at an exorbitant price. John.

The front hub bearing turned up, and fitting this was my job for the day. Stripping the brakes, and removing the disk was easy having had them apart a couple of days ago. Next I removed the four pins that hold the hub bearing to the upright, and disconnected the ABS sensor. Then the fun started there was know way the hub would move from the upright. Eventually I removed the wheel studs simply by knocking them out with a hammer. Then using two of the hub holding bolts with a couple suitable fine threaded nuts I put the bolts through two of the holes in the hub from the outside with nuts fitted on the inside. A small socket was put over the ends of the threads, and against the aluminium upright. Tightening the bolts jacked the steel bearing hub out of the very corroded aluminium upright. The rest was just a matter of cleaning up the hole in the upright with a flap wheel so that the new hub bearing was a snug fit in the upright. Reassembly was then strait forward without further problems. To anyone contemplating changing a hub bearing the biggest problem is the galvanic corrosion that occures between the steel hub, and the aluminium upright. I had much the same problem changing a Prius front hub bearing about six years ago, but with that I had no alternative but to take the complete front upright to a local machine shop, and use there hydraulic press. I am hoping tomorrow the caliper seal kit will arrive. A 4.5 ltr drum of DOT4 brake fluid arrived today.

Just move the car forwards or backwards a foot every few weeks or just turn the car round. Other alternative is to jack the car up, and put it on blocks so that the wheels are not touching the ground. John.

Although the chemistry in AGM ,and normal flooded lead acid batteries is basically the same the AGM has a slightly higher terminal voltage. The AGM voltage is 14.2 volts while the flooded battery is 13.8 volts. The old style transformer chargers will generally charge both types, but are not suitable for trickle charging "being permanently left connected" as they tend to overcharge the batteries. Chargers designed for flooded batteries tend not to fully charge AGM batteries because the output voltage is to low. They will however charge AGM batteries to a point where they can be used to start a car, but because the battery never reaches full charge there is a risk of some sulphasion. AGM battery chargers will charge both types of battery fully, but can slightly over charge lead acid batteries so that the battery may need topping up with distilled water. Most modern battery chargers are capable by switching or auto means of charging both type of battery. I do not now if this applies to the Ctek charger, but the Aldi/Lidl chargers are excellent chargers with a blue illuminated liquid crystal voltage display, charge type, and level. The only downside is that if the supply to the charger fails because of a power cut it does not restart automatically. The on off button has to be pressed to start charging. At circa £12 they are an excellent buy with a 3 year guarantee. John.

I think you will be amazed at the pressure of hand operated grease guns mine is rated at 340 bar or 5000 psi. If you use air to blow the pistons out this will also blow any residual fluid over your paintwork. With fluid as the pressure medium as soon as the piston leaves the seal the pressure has gone. With air this is not the case. This is why pressure vessels are tested with liquid "usually water", and not air. If the vessel fails with liquid it just cracks. With air it explodes. A rag placed over the caliper will catch any fluid. As far as grease or oil is concerned I did state this should only be used if the caliper went through a degrease afterwards. One of the things that I noticed on the "Wheeler Dealer" program is that in all the times "Edd" changed brake or clutch master cylinders he would hold the old cylinder over the front wing of the car he was working on with fluid saturated rubber gloves, no cover on the wing, and no warning as to the paint stripper effect that brake fluid has. John.