PJD

I have searched around and there seems to be mixed opinion on this. My mechanic used the "pre-mixed" red, which he said was "already mixed". First question; is "pre-mixed" already mixed, or does that mean that it needs to be mixed? (I have read that there is "post-mixed" which means that it IS mixed!??) :) My mechanic said that pre-mixed means it's already mixed so can go straight in. Second question; my mechanic used for the most part (80%) Red, - but it needed topping up, so he used Pink (all he had left at the time). I said that I have read online that it's not a good idea to mix them as it might damage the seals, however he was adamant and said that he can guarantee that it's fine (although did offer to drain it if I wish!). He said that even if you drain the coolant and replace with pink, they'll still be remnants of Red left, so it'll be mixed anyway. With mixed information, I am left with no idea.. - like many of us here, - just want to avoid a big bill if I can possibly help it :)

Personally I would stick to same colour... what sort of price are you looking it to get this paintwork done, - or are you doing all or some of it yourself? My car could also do with a bit of a paint up on the bumpers

Yes - from Lexus - they weren't cheap, about £6 a bulb

I'm going to get my radiator replaced soon, - however it's just had a service with the coolant changed. If any is lost and it needs to be topped up, is it okay to top up with any old coolant, or should the red be used? Also - is this the correct coolant? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-pre-mixed-red-coolant-/162012113033?hash=item25b8aca889:g:3TAAAOSwwpdW7ag8 Many thanks

Sorted this ages ago, but forgot to update thread, - just in case anyone has the same, reasonably common, issue; - get in touch with Maple Audio in Bath, - they sorted it quickly and comparatively very cheaply - highly recommended, - has been working like a charm since :) Problem was a connection problem with one of the integrated circuit boards

Replaced a number of bulbs actually - all with LED The number plate lights, as said, - I also replaced the interior dome, both front and rear map lights (didn't do vanity) plus the puddle lights underneath the wing mirrors, - it's so cheap to do and looks a little more modern. A couple of my switches also weren't lighting up (PWR, Sport, Height and the passenger Temp control) - got the correct LEDs from Lexus, removed parts of the dash & replaced... plus the centre brake light which had also gone! :)

My apologies - WD40 done the trick ;)

I have done what I thought would be the trickier steps: Removed the Pull handle, removed the boot lid light housing, removed the clips which hold the liner in place, so now I can access the bulb housing from the back. However, I cannot seem to remove the bulb housing. My manual simply states to turn anti-clockwise. I have used reasonable force on both of them, and neither are shifting at all. I don't wan to break them. Any tips? Shall I crack open the WD40 or something? Just wanted to check with someone who's done it before I break something :)

I've never used one before. Presumably you think they make a difference as you've used a few times, - how do you rate them in terms of longevity?

Quick question hopefully - where is the air recirculation inlet point/s in an LS430? I'm about to use an air-con cleaner and want to fire it in the best place :)

So the same issue (as the sub) can occur on the door speakers also? How easy is it to access door speakers?

PS - yes, - that's exactly what mine did, so you probably had the same, common, easily fixed issue, that I had.

Thought I'd bump this. I don't believe a re-cone is need, nor removal of the seat. Today, as the sub was, very annoyingly, distorting and rattling at even low volumes, I prised off the sub grill with interior removal tools (2 seconds), and applied Elmers Rubber Cement (couple of quid off ebay) around the outside of the speaker where it connects to the rim. The rubber cement if flexible so still allows the cone to move freely. Wasn't my idea, - read the idea elsewhere and apparently it's a fix that lasts. Sounds lovely now - deep, clear, clean bass, - no rattles, - took about 10 mins.

Hmmmm - does seem slightly odd, - given how important the waterpump and tensioners are. Seems sensible, at that point in the car's life, as Simon says, to just do the lot whilst you're there, rather than try and scrimp on a few quid.

Many thanks everyone for such great info & fast response. Should I really check the dimensions of my radiator, or should they all be the same for this model? The Europarts one is showing different this even cheaper one on ebay, below, for e.g: http://www.eurocarparts.com/car-radiator Koyo Radiator Product Code: 203821061 Core Dimensions425 X 757 X 16 mm MaterialAluminium, Plastic Transmission TypeManual- / optional automatic transmission Vehicle EquipmentFor vehicles with/without air conditioning Engine Code 3UZ-FE Fitted Quantity 1 Other Information If Unit On Vehicle Has Overflow Pipe, It's Main Dealer Unit Only http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cooling-Cooler-Radiator-For-Lexus-430-LS430-4-3cc-32V-Auto-Manual-Replacement-/151793932664?hash=item23579f9978:g:el0AAOSwYlJW3nav How do I I access the suspension height sensors/arms to clean and grease? Do I need to remove the wheel, or just jack it up..? Can I only buy Toyota Red Coolant from Toyota? Many thanks again for excellent information here.

I have a couple of questions in regards to LS430 preventative maintenance. I got my local garage to check the suspension height monitors, they said they looked fine, dry and no sign of cracking or leaking, - is this enough for peace of mind? No other tricks to keeping these little grommets in good order? They also checked the radiator and connections, and again, said they were absolutely fine; would you be happy with this, or would is it worth considering replacing the rad anyway to negate the possibility of gearbox failure? Many thanks!

Would a Lexus Dealer replace the Belt and Waterpump without doing the tensioners also? Not being facetious - genuine question...

Yes, I was. How do I find other outlets? I have googled "autogas <my location>" but it only came up with the petrol stations that I was already aware of.

Hmmmm - yes, maybe. Certainly good to be mindful of that. One particularly LS430 I test drove, the telescopic function didn't, at first, appear to work.. .. I gave it some "encouragement", and after a bit of creaking, it did indeed work... albeit slowly.... My steering wheel motors seem pretty perky... so I am hoping it's a good sign that there's some good life in them yet... (but I maybe completely wrong if they slow down before failing?).

Thanks Mark. I have an Android phone however..

In regards to the steering wheel motors, just wondering what the thoughts were from more experienced owners in regards to - removing a fuse by the driver's kick-panel so the steering wheel does not move every time you start & stop the engine to reduce mechanical wear & tear (pop the fuse back in when you need to (which may not be often for some), or, every so often to mitigate seizing?

Sorry for the presumption. It's a little device that enables you to plug your phone into the sound system, I have hundreds of MP3 on my phone, so I'd find that functionality useful

Wondering if anyone here has any experience with it?

Appreciate your input everyone, thanks. I took it down the local garage, they kindly plugged it into their computer for me for free. It was the exhaust Lambda Sensor which triggered it. Work that one out. As I said, it happened near the time the LPG ran out (could be unrelated), but the garage commented that because I have an LPG conversion, and a ram-air in-take, it may have confused it somehow. They reset it, the light have gone, and after 200 miles yesterday they've remained off. JemLexus are going to be inspecting the car soon, I will ask them to see if they can investigate what happened and see if they can prevent it happening again, - if that's possible? I don't want the worry of having that 'cry wolf' on a regular basis... Not sure if this sensor is a legal requirement, can be disabled, or whether it's unavoidable with a different air intake/lpg?

No - it has run low once before since i brought it and it was fine. I have just put both petrol and lpg and the lights remain. There is no change to throttle response, - - it seems to drive fine. Coolant & oil levels are fine Do you think it would be okay to drive today? Also got the Check VSC message?