Linas.P

reading what people actually say always helps 👍

Really? My front disks are red hot after driving 😁 Generally, I agree - I would see stuck calliper right away after driving, but I advise not touching it as it could be really hot. I only ever had one of my real callipers stuck and after driving and it was literally smoking from the wheel.

Well, you have statutory rights and you don't need to be friends with dealer to use them. Sat-nav is expected to be working, unless it is specifically listed in sales agreement that it does not. If it does not work then it is miss-selling and you can go directly to trading standards. In the end of the day it is up-to you, but note that sat-nav is not covered by Lexus warranty and could be expensive to fix (like thousands).

Sadly that would be rare as service schedule in UK is 10k, so what you find it is usually older cars on more miles who may have this done when somebody started caring for them "in spirit" not by letter. Other thing to note - for example I did 6k oil changes, but if you look at my car history it would look like as if oil was changed only once in 12k miles, that is because I would do service at Lexus every 12k miles and would do another "undocumented" service in between. Sorry, to kind of make it as conflicting message, but those are just examples, what makes the "good car" is the combination of all these aspects and it is not always easy to just figure it out. In other hand it is quite easy to figure out bad car - trust me you know what bad car is when you see it.

Your link says - it is for car 2006-2011. I have wiring diagram, but it is the same as already provided they are simply for IS250, not specifically facelift. What makes you think that camera wiring would be different between 2010 and older cars?

Yes it should, connect, try removing it or all the devices and reconnect again. When prompted you should then allow the access on both phone and vehicle side.

Looks to me like something is having reaction with your vax, of maybe it needs to be buffed better. Agree with what others said - you need to machine polish (or hand polish if you brave) after using clay bar. The way to reduce time it takes to wash - first of all cleaning leather every month is massive overkill, you will probably scrub it off doing it so often. So I would do it at most once or twice a year. Perhaps would use good sealant for protections and just vacuum the corners if there is some dust/sand build-up. The other way to slightly reduce cleaning time is to go ceramic, it takes time to apply, but it reduces washing and especially drying time if done correctly and many ceramic top-coats can be used as QD nowadays. So my cleaning would be interior vacuum, with soft-bristle brush just to dust off vents and panels, then quick vacuum corners of seats and then the actual carpet, the individual carpets I do outside of the car. This takes max 20 min. And I do full interior deep clean at most twice a year, that adds probably 30-40min, definitely not every month. The outside cleaning is pretty much snow foam, whilst it is working on the paint I would do wheels and then move to grilles and badges with soft-brush and APC, by that time snow foam mostly softens everything that was on the car and I just rinse it - again that is maybe 20 minutes. Then contact wash - I do as little as possible not to scratch the car too much, so lightly go over the panels with MF mitt and two buckets, ceramic coat helps here. 10 min max. Rinse again and then spray QD/Drying aid/Top coat and wipe with MF drying towel, and then go over again with MF cloth. maybe another 20min. Then quickly complete windows - outside usually is good from washing, so just some fingerprints from inside. 10 min. That is a about all 1-1.5h give or take. But that is obviously after full 3 stage polish and ceramic coat which I would do once 1-2 years and it does take like 12-24h to do depending on the car (closer to 12h on IS250, but I struggled a lot with RC).

One way to get more HP in NA engine is to increase rev limiter, but that literally means destroying the engine and it is not very usable as that extra power only comes at the top end. So this is more for racing or just dyno graph. What is that higher RPM? maybe 7500, maybe 8000 if lucky, but beyond that definitely results in blown engine. And to do it even remotely "property" it would be ideal to get forged cranks, pistons and ideally dry sump... and all specialised rings, bearings ect, which I don't even know if they are available for 4GR-FSE or they would have to be custom ordered (imagine the price of that). Again for racing that has been done (on other cars), but realistically it is neither cheap, nor good for an engine, nor really beneficial in every day driving.

Works fine for me on W10. Carista claims they can, but I think you need their proprietary dongle. Cheaper and better obviously to get TechStream. I think I paid like £27 for the cable and then you get literally everything.

likewise, maybe we should spread the cost? 😄

Yeah, mine quite liked burning Magnatec, it wasn't really that much ~1L between the services (so every 10k miles) and thus I didn't even bother topping-up because I would just change the oil at 6k anyway. But it didn't burn Mobil ESP1 Long life at all. Despite of that I would still recommend 6k services (which by the way are healthier anyway and standard in metric countries - 10k kilometres), after 6k I would get lifter knocking at cold starts and things like that.

Ideally make your own thread 🙂 In summary, what matters is not mileage, nor age - what matters is service history. Ideally dealership, but as long as there are records of timely service even independent garages are ok. The next thing is to actually see what was done to the car, because you can have FLSH, but nothing was done to it apart of standard oil and filters. Kind of odd, but tyres are good indication of the care given to the car, if car is on landsil, hit-crap, turbo-speed, mega-grip, china-specialle tyres then you can bet it was run on the shoe strings. Obviously there are many more signs, but this is one obvious one. Other thing - MOT history, if you see loads of silly advisories and silly fails, then again indicative of poor care. What is silly vs. not silly - bold tyres are silly, advisories which comes back for several years in a row, things like that. Will 16 years old and 125k miles car have issues - yes obviously it will, so expectations has to be realistic, but in comparison with other makes for mileage/age Lexus definitely is more reliable and dependable. If somebody broke something, then it is broken, if car was not serviced it could have issues, but apart of that these cars don't fail by themselves. Electronic part is particularly robust and despite being filled with all possible options these cars rarely have something not working as expected. Suspension is strong, cost loads to fix, but it lasts - my last IS250 was mostly on original suspension near 200k. Gearbox last, but may need ATF refreshed at least once every 100k miles, so count that in. Hydraulic lifters tends to rattle on the engines, so I would recommend "early" oil changes at 6k miles, perhaps even using some additives. Some say they burn oil, but it isn't really the case, not much more than any other car, but if they were poorly maintained, missed services, then they could burn oil. In summary, very solid cars if looked after, no real weaknesses, so it is just a matter of finding car which was properly maintained.

Depends on the drive you doing and speeds. If road is empty and you just cruising around I would expect higher MPG, maybe ~45-55MPG on motorway, but again assuming you just turn cruise control to 70MPH and drive without touching neither brakes not accelerator for 50 miles. 25-27MPG in the city, that is about right, depends how busy it is, how much you have to stop, probably you can expect closer to 30MPG, but that is not massive difference. Why... could be many things, tyres (make sure they not underinflated), check brakes and make sure callipers are not stuck and not dragging pads, when was last service? when gearbox was serviced ?It could be other things like pugged DPF or EGR, it could be leaking injectors (although I would expect code for that). Overall it is quite hard to say why MPG is higher, especially because a lot depends on driver as well, so one has to assume that you driving very economically to say MPG is low, because for some drivers that may be normal MPG.

That is good advise... IN THEORY! Sadly let me tell you how it works in practice. 1. DVLA most likely going to take months if not years to respond, I am not joking. They most likely to reject your request and may reject it several times, on the basis that they can't share personal details to third party. You see DVLA is fine selling our details to criminals which calls themselves "parking management companies", but that is because they are part of bigger schemes. As an individual it is nearly impossible to get keeper details from DVLA. That you claim the car hit your car needs to be proven and DVLA is not police, they not going to investigate (police won't investigate either), so I can say with confidence you will get nowhere with this if you ask DVLA for keeper details. To get keeper details from DVLA you first need to prove that what you allege has taken place. The only realistic way would be to ask police to come and collect evidence and then assist you getting information from DVLA, but I can guarantee you police WON'T COME! 2. Contacting keeper is kind of waste of time as well, as realistically you are "nobody" for them, you can threaten them with civil suit, but let's just do quick math on this - it will cost you £1000 to prove they did £100 of damage. Non-starter. In expectational circumstances keeper may come around agree to pay for a fix, but kind of unlikely if they run away in the first place. 3. I would advise not doing it if you want to get anything out of runaway driver. But make sure to document damage as best as you could, maybe get quote for fixing from body shop, but DO NOT repair. if you repair, then police and insurance won't be able to do anything. Damage not there case closed. 4. Police won't bother, I have hit and run crash and had it on dashcam video, police refused to investigate twice stating "it is not in public interest to investigate", literally have it in writing. Eventually I had to write to commissioner of MET, threatening to sue police itself for "dereliction of duties" and only then they investigated, but eventually lost the case. I don't understand how it is possible to lose the case, but it went to Magistrates Court and they lost - I got nothing and run away driver got away. Besides if you go trough DVLA route and fixing first, then police automatically going to refuse to look at it, because by that time car will be fixed and it will be several months passed since the incident in best case. 5. Same as point 3, it will cost you more to make the claim than you can back and you can't recover costs of claim in small claims so you would be losing money either way. What John said - is all true and correct, but it assumes that state, police, DVLA gives a ..... they don't! Frankly it is a little bit idealistic and naive. If somebody would have been injured then maybe, but for scrape on the bumper - NO CHANCE! I was literally told by police multiple times - "just claim the insurance"! Now what I think you should do (in my opinion). First - don't make mistake as I did and don't go to police. You can report it to police just to get crime reference number, but don't expect them to do anything with it. Next thing - you need to think long and hard whenever you want to do anything about it, I know you want to give a lesson to the person who does not know how to drive and who runs away from the accident they caused, but you will be doing it at your detriment. Just bear that in mind. Fixing scrape on the bumper may cost you £100-£200, reporting it will be considered claim on your file and you insurance will be higher for 3-5 years. Depending on how much you paying for insurance, it may be couple of hundreds, but it may be a thousand, assume your insurance will be 20% higher for 3-5 years if you insurer finds out. If in the end you decide this is worth it, then I suggest you go to claims management company. If you have CCTV and it is clear that accident happened this will come under "no fault" claim. Meaning that claims management company will pre-authorise repairs to your car and claim it directly from third party insurance without involving your insurance, they will give you matching class car in mean time, they will fix your car in shop you want and your excess won't be triggered. But you will need to notify your insurance about this at which point your insurance will increase, even if you not going to claim anything from them.

Just note - regardless of whose fault it was, claim is claim and your insurance will go up anyway... so make sure you squeeze every last penny from insurance company whilst you can, because they will be squeezing more from you for next 3-5 years.

It is most likely to be the outcome - I would be extremely surprised if insurance would get involved into repairing frame damage. I had mine written off for literally a scratch on the bumper, although that was 2018 and my was only estimated to be worth £3600. With car prices as they are now maybe there is more wiggle room to fix it. As well it is a question of what OP is willing to accept, I had people crashing into me 3 times and 2 times insurance wanted to write of the car. First time around they offered me too little in my opinion and I just didn't agree with it, that resulted insurance carrying out second inspection and reducing repair quote by 40% bringing the car back to "repairable" and I got it repaired. Second time, I actually wanted car to b written-off as at nearly 200k miles it was clearly worth more as write-off and with just a scratch on the bumper I kept completely usable car and got paid more than it was worth to sell anyway. So it matter what owner is pushing for, although I had a benefit of using claims management company and I would recommend going that way, rather than directly with insurance, claims management companies give extra leverage in negotiations.

It does - because the car wasn't mine at the time 😅

I have seen many cars but none were very surprising, mostly all sort of **** boxes, small, cheap basic cars which are bought for single reason of being cheap and never see any love (seems to be general trend of british motoring to be honest). Most common issue are underinflated tyres which overheats and blows out, but in summer I have seen few cars which have overheated and even caught fire. And important to say - it does not matter how reliable car is, so Toyotas or Hondas make no difference, if people run them on underinflated tyres it is not cars fault really. Despite how unreliable some German cars are I have seen very few actually broken down on the road, but French cars are most frequent there, but again it is less to do with them being generally unreliable and more to do with how they being used. So the only truly surprising breakdown I have seen was my ex-IS250 (I have transferred it to the family member). Not going to comment on the care given to the car after my ownership, but what happened was very unusual and it was genuinely surprising because car was completely reliable in my ownership, transferred in great mechanical condition and he only did like 4000 miles in it, so even in worst condition I could not understand how could it breakdown so quickly. I came to see what is up, but the battery was already dead by attempting to start the car for a while and could not figure out what is going on. As such AA was called as I had Lexus Roadside assistance and they were very surprised as well, the technician said they have NEVER seen IS250 broken down and generally very rare to see Lexus overall. Most of the time he said it is flat tyre, few people who embarrassingly run out of fuel, but never really broken down Lexus. The issue on my Lexus was that engine would not turn over and was even feared seized, the technician literally spent 1.5h as he could not believe engine would just seize whilst driving, engine oil was low, but apart of that all the rest looked fine. Eventually he figured out engine does turn over, but air conditioning puller seems to be seized and accessory belt just slips over it, not allowing engine to get up to speed where it would start. Then he removed accessory belt and engine started right away. Surprisingly belt was strong enough to stall the engine instead of ripping apart.

It would be interesting to check after driving in heavy rain. I guess you are ok - as you have reinforced air-filter, but perhaps not good idea to use standard paper one. As well comparing to what mine looks like after 100k miles (and I am sure nobody bothered to clean it) - I would day your one looks significantly dirtier e.g. I have none of that fine sand, especially not around filter seal. Is that a problem? I don't know, maybe not, but it looks a lot dirtier. Actually - even in this picture from Dess you can see how much dirt is in the airbox: That is very similar how mine looks (I will take picture tomorrow). Just little bit of fine dust stuck around fins.

I think it may help separate water/dust, rather than help airflow. That said It is not clear for me how F-Sport one prevents water from entering airbox? Are there any other parts which should be present?

I think it will be closer to this: - Air box does not need to come out when changing the water pump, only "snorkel", but that is assuming mechanic knows what they are doing, which isn't always the case. As well to replace bulbs you may need to remove airbox, so mounting points being broken may not be big deal. That is how I broke mine on last IS250. - It may have been small accident, or maybe just general wear an tear, bumpers get's scraped all the time so it is not unusual - bonnets are aluminium and they are common problem, but generally it is front of bonnet which tends to bubble-up and peal. But I guess possibility is that front was pealing necessitating repainting entire bonnet and job was not done very well. - on all used Lexus I had they were missing clips and had broken cover clips. At first I was replacing them, but even after dealer service I would find few broken every time, so just stopped bothering... I had bag of like 20 clips in glovebox and I would replace them as they would get misplaced overtime. Very hard to see it in the pictures to be honest. The only thing I can see is that your passenger side headlight was likely replaced. - Cannot see any issues with the gaps, but that does not mean they don't exist, maybe they are clearer in person. - The bottom splitter is two part, so it is not broken, that how it should be - that said it should be matching colour. - The edge of the bonnet looks weird - it may be repainted, but needs paint gauge to check. As well it is weird that front edge of bumper is so clean, most of the time they are "sandblasted", again indicating it was repainted, but not necessary due to accident. Now in summary, let's see where you are legally with this - when buying from car dealer you have statutory rights to return the car or to request for issues to be fixed unless they were clearly identified during purchase. So you don't need to rage or make a scene, you simply need to show dealer what is the issue and request them to fix it, for example broken ambient temp sensor would squarely be dealers responsibility to fix. What I would advise - get second opinion from body shop, many even going to give you free inspection before giving the quote. Then go back to dealership with quote in hand and point out what you expect them to fix, be reasonable - I am sure they won't repaint half of car, but you can easily point out 3-4 things which are clearly not right and you could reasonably expect be fixed when buying car, like ambient sensor or broken airbox. Worst case scenario, if body shop going to discover previous accident and more bodge job you could reject the car and return it to the dealer - that is your right.

Not possible to do, there are people who make silly claims, but the fact is - you can't get more power from naturally aspirated engine without hardware mods. And when it comes to IS250 mods there isn't much you can do - bigger exhaust and ram intake with get you maybe 5hp. The step-up is supercharger - but that will cost like £5000. So with IS250 you get what you get. As well it is not "lazy" engine, but I suspect you coming from modern turbocharged car expecting massive torque midrange, this is not how naturally aspirated engines works - you need to rev it out all the way, it pretty much only becomes alive at 4000rpm+. And between 4000-7000rpm it is very very lively. As well I would describe engine as "lazy" if it is not responsive, but IS250 is responsive just doesn't have massive torque which pushes you back into seat at just over 2500rpm, which by the way I think is a good thing.

I didn't have light output in my definition of "quality", just generally little bit lighter flimsier plastic compared to OEM. Other thing - there are now fake VLANDS... so basically fakes of the fakes which probably where my "quality" claim is coming from. If I were in position where I have to spend £800 for new headlight vs. getting aftermarket for ~200-500 for a set, then I would go with OEM looking aftermarket ones, but I would never go for them by my own. Other thing I must admit - I never owned IS250 with halogens, despite owning 4 of them, so I can't even imagine what is light output from halogens... xenons were OK.

Many thing I would not call "general maintenance", I would class them under "consumables" or "wear and tear items" e.g. tyres or brake pads, those are just things you have to change from time to time, same as fill up the tank with petrol. The rear callipers, or valve cover gasket - yes that is "general maintenance". I think some lines have moved around a bit, so it is hard to figure out what cost what. All in all, £2120 sounds like a lot of money, but it seems you have fixed every single small bit. Other thing to note - if you cold do it by yourself you would have saved like £500 e.g. spark plugs, pads and disks that is what I would do myself. I am doing similar log for all of my cars as well, really helps to keep on top of maintenance and you kind of know when it is time to do something. So that is good habit.

I would not bother finding lowest mileage one, more important is to have service history as others said. As for battery degradation, it is not as much of an issue on Lexus hybrids as it is on pure-EVs. First of all, Lexus are using kind of old battery tech (nickel rather than lithium) which is kind of good in this case - it is more stable and degrades less. Secondly, Lexus hybrid is "self-charging" (there are Lexus BEVs and PHEVs now, but 2016 NX is not that) which means battery capacity is kind of irrelevant as long as it passes hybrid-health check, it is not like you can drive anywhere just on the battery alone, apart of maybe moving out of driveway at most. So I would say even if it degrades a little bit, it is not a concern like in other cars where battery capacity directly impact range or MPG.