Linas.P

Indeed, A6 would be equivalent to GS which is more luxurious, better built and more comfortable car. As well it is true that base Audi, BMW and MB are really really basic, to be honest same is true with base IS. However, what is different is that when you get to F-Sport or Premier IS comes almost fully loaded with very few options even possible, whereas on German cars it is still possible to drop another £15k for basic things. Like for example even something so basic like folding and electric rear view mirrors are optional.

Tyres are always compromise and CrossClimate is very very big compromise. Yes CC is great all season tyre which provides safe driving experience most of the time, but they really have nothing when it comes to sporty driving, not handling, not grip, not feedback. If you really want to enjoy the car, get predictive grip and reactive steering you have to get UHP tyre. There the recommendation remains the same Continental and Goodyear UHP tyres are good, Michelin just released PS5 which is good but as always overpriced, Bridgestone as always lags behind. Get one of those 3 tyres (Asymmetric 6, Sport/Premium Contact 6 or PS 5) and car will handle much better. All season tyres just never going to handle as well on the limit, they meant to be safe tyres at normal driving speeds, not the tyres you enjoy when "opening it up".

£25k is A LOT for IS300h, I would say it is bad time to buy the nicest and best example of IS300h (which is end of life model), because the best examples will be the ones to get most drastic depreciation. I assume you specifically looking at 2018+ facelift version which is well specced at that price. If you still want to spend that much, then perhaps better option is GS300h or even 450h, both of which are even better, but obviously larger (like BMW 5 series size). So I would say £15-18k could buy you very nice IS300h if you willing to shop around and wait for right car to become available. Infotainment on IS pre-facelift is honestly quite horrible, slow, counter-intuitive controls etc. But nowadays you can get upgrade to wide-screen android unit (10.25") for £300 which looks like facelift but is actually better system all around, faster, easier to navigate, has android auto and apple car play etc. So that is really not an issue, but original units are quite bad in terms of interface. The reliability is great, nothing to worry about and nothing to to go wrong. As long as it was maintained! mileage more or less don't matter, what matters is maintenance. When it comes to Lexus Reading make sure you have everything in writing with them (personal experience), they do sort of things, but only if you have agreed them in writing, otherwise condition of my cars was quite poor. I owned few BMW/Mercs but mostly last gen, so my comparison is more with IS mk2, not mk3, but in principle BMW is usually faster and better handling car for comparable price, but less comfortable and less well equipped, MB is more comfortable, but rather poorly put together and handles poorly in comparison. Lexus obviously better built than both, more reliable, but it is slower. There is massive difference between Standard and Premium, but small difference from Premium and Mark Levinson systems. Standard system is criminally bad, like literally unacceptably bad to be fitted to any car, but especially luxury car. Premium system is decent, nothing wrong with it and Mark Levinson is marginally better than Premium. Mark Levinson has more clarity Premium has more base and I would say more suitable for say pop-songs, Mark Levinson would really excel if you listening to orchestra from good source. In short they are both good, just avoid standard system like a plague. Paint on Lexus isn't better quality, it could be argued it is worse quality. BMW/Audi simply has hard pain, Mercs medium to hard and Lexus has very soft paint. Very soft paint means it is easy to scratch and harder to get good finish when detailing. So it isn't bad paint, but it is easier to scratch and harder to maintain. I would always go for higher miles and better spec. model, in particular F-Sport would be must for me if I would go for IS mk3, at least premium audio, leather - the rest of the option don't matter as F-sport has most toys anyway. Other trims not so important and none of them get's LF-A dials which is must in my opinion. But for the price you willing to pay, you should be able to get very best cars on sale. As well buying from dealer add very little value, so I would be quite happy to buy from independent dealers or even privately. After all Lexus warranty the cars up-to 100k miles/ 10 years as long as you service car with them. Again I would probably pick pre-facelift car for £10k less and not worry about depreciation for few years, even if it is going to depreciate will will be maybe £3k over 5 years, the facelift cars which are now 30k can easily lose 50% of their value in next 5 years, they are just massively overpriced for what they are. I guess the only benefit of getting facelift is LSS+, but is it worth paying £10k extra for that? I doubt it. But again if I go for facelift, I would get car with best spec, with highest mileage and for lowest price. You can get facelift F-Sport for ~£18k with 50-60k miles and still have 5 years/50k miles of warranty left, so really no need to spend £25k.

That is normal, when A/C is ON the idle raises slightly to compensate for extra load, because remember - idle is adjusted to be barely enough to keep the engine itself running . Once driving it usually no longer matters above like 5MPH.

The margin is not that great there 150>179hp and you riding and hand grenade... and smoke shield.

It is done during the same process, if you look at the machine used for re-gas, or if they issue you with receipt (sometimes machines prints it), then it will say something along the lines - "recovered: 80g and 10ml. refilled: 120g and 40ml", the grams are the refrigerant, them ml are the oil and it is done during the same operation. And the process is usually works as such > remaining oil/gas recovered >vacuum is drawn on the system > then system is left for 15m and vacuum checked to make sure there are no leaks > and only then gas/oil is refilled according to what car requires.

Sadly it is not an option to turn it off if you car has it, if it is fitted it must be on... unless you into hobby of growing fungus on condenser. A lot more fuel? Depends on the driving but no more than 1-2% would be the norm, certainly cheaper than repair bill. One thing to note - I always have car in recirculation more (I can't even understand how people can drive otherwise), when I start driving I may slightly open a window/sunroof or have it fresh air mode, but as soon as I reach main road, recirculation is turned on and it just keeps pleasant temperature with minimal fuel consumption impact. It does not matter what is temperature outside either, A/C works all the way to 0C and it not only cools, but as well... conditions the air, meaning it removes excess moisture. And again using the system is required for it to be maintained, not using it will reduces lifespan and then even if you save something on fuel you will have to put back in maintenance and repair work.

Faulty A/C compressor and or A/C clutch. Had exactly the same problem. Some say A/C does not need servicing, but Lexus recommends doing it every 2 years. Again some say just keep it ON (which I agree with - it should never under any circumstances be OFF) and don't bother with service, but I rather pay £60 for re-gas and oiling every two years than pay £700 for new compressor and fitting. I note you said you only used it twice - that is part of the problem, A/C should never be off, that causes seals to dry out (as oil circulates with refrigerant), then oil/refrigerant leaks trough dried out seals and once lubrication is lost or insufficient A/C compressor seizes. Not only that - having A/C off for longer periods of time just promoted bacteria growth and when you turn it on it not only stinks like swamp, but may be dangerous for your health. In your case maybe it seized momentary on dry start, but luckily got some lubrication and started working again... that is not to say it wasn't damaged.

It really depends... maybe some dealers does it, but as I said Lexus dealer sold me the car without brakes, despite me pointing out that brakes looks suspiciously worn out, despite it having Lexus Used/Approved inspection done 2 month ago and despite me asking to repeat the inspection, which they agreed to do in writing, but never did. As well there was IS300h sold to member on the forum... which had new tyres... yes. And those tyres were of "well known and trusted brand" Triangle (for like £40 each). Same story with another member who got GS450h for Lexus with two different tyres in the front (I believe one PS3 or PS4 and other Primacy 3) and two brand new and exciting "Runway" (probably should be called - run away!) tyres on the rear. This leads me to believe "Used Approved" 170 points inspection is no better than me poking the car with a stick myself. And I found it unacceptable that they fit budget dichfinders to what is premium car and in case of GS450h quite powerful one as well. It is certainly not replacement for thorough independent or personal inspection, nor it should be relied upon unless car condition is agreed in writing before deposit is paid.

Indeed both BlackVue or Thinkware are quite a bit more expensive than NextBase if purchased outside of Lexus offer. What I meant - if I were to choose between paying Lexus £375 to install NextBase or get BlackVue or Thinkware, I would take later and install it myself. Obviously, NextBase can probably be purchased for £100 somewhere else and fitting won't cost £275, so that is an option as well.

I suspect that fuel efficiency is high-up in selection criteria for logistics companies, however fuel efficiency is not the same as pollution. In either case neither will be reduced going from 30 to 20MPH. As well undersized engines could be detrimental for economy when on the motorway and smaller is not always most efficient.

The dealership will always quote you quite high prices for the convenience. Apart of rare occasion where you negotiate something to be included in the sale for free - which is too late now if you didn't do it before paying the price or putting down deposit (but it would be unusual for brand new car, especially UX). So is Lexus dashcam for £375 "good value for money"? No it isn't - it is convenience and about normal price they charge unless they have some sort of special deal (sometimes they fit them for free or for £100). Is Nexbase the best camera to fit? No it isn't either (nor it is the worse) - for the price I would probably go with Blackvue or Thinkware. Anyway, if you worried about the price then don't ask Lexus to fit it, they will usually cost above average for what is average quality dash cam. Fitting dashcams isn't their main business, so they just do it for convenience and that is why they don't really care to make the price competitive. You can obviously fit the camera cheaper, but I guess when buying new car you would not want to risk installing it badly, so consider that as well. If it would be me, I would definitely not use Lexus for it and would fit it myself, but I can't say whenever that is the best option for you. All in all, I would say what they quote is normal and it is not very competitive price as normal... it not suppose to be. But that is what convenience cost.

Without having seen either car either car it is very hard to say. Generally, there isn't much of the difference whenever you buy car from Lexus dealer or independent, they are all equally dirty when it comes to used car sales and always runs on very tight budget. Getting it from Lexus get's you 1 year warranty, but it being a Lexus you get 1 year warranty either way as soon as you service the car. Non-dealer is more likely to agree lower price, as well they may have better financing rates, more open to PX for more reasonable price etc. I think which is in better condition and cheaper will sell first regardless of who are selling it. I don't believe buying from Lexus dealer adds that much value. Both Lexus and Independent are under same obligations. The only thing that matters is having agreed everything in writing, Lexus won't agree to do anything unless it can be proven from e-mail or document and there is risk for legal or misselling claim. They sold me car without brake pads and 3000 miles later said "it may be my driving style", the problem was that they failed to do pre-sales inspection when I asked for them in writing before they sold me the car and I had it stated in the e-mail that "brake disks seems worn and brake pads seems like they are low, could you do inspection to check" and they responded to the e-mail that they have "done inspection and they passed". 3000 miles later it was metal on metal. To be fair when I told them I will consider this to be mis-selling and I take them to trending standards or if needed to court, then to be fair to them they replaced all bake components all around without much more fuss free of charge for £1220. What I am saying - thinking that Lexus dealer is more trustworthy on used car sales is false sense of security. Have everything in writing and you won't have any issues regardless if it is Lexus or Independent, but agree everything verbally and it will come to bite you in the back side.

The pot hole claims usually are not that difficult, but it is hard to prove speed hump damage unless you can prove they are clearly excessively high or if there are no signs warning about them. If there is pot hole over certain size (not exactly sure in UK, but generally more 10cm circumference or more than 10cm deep) and it is not marked then local authority is liable for the damage. I have successfully made few claims abroad, but haven't had any damage in UK yet. I guess mostly because one can't even drive fast enough due to speed humps everywhere. Once it was pretty easy (just a tyre for 140 Euro), but second time I had to sue the equivalent of council, because I had to call recovery truck and council didn't want to pay for that and as well it was new Merc with 20" wheels and one wheel was 1500Euro (2 damaged). Basically the claim was like 6500 Euro and they said "yes sure we happy to replace 2 tyres and fix the wheels for 750Euro, but not 'excessive' claim for replacement wheels, recovery and storage"... well they ended-up paying everything + 800 Euro legal costs.

This is literally the only conclusion one can reach looking at the BEV proposals for 2030 and ban of ICEV. There is no infrastructure to charge cars, there are not enough lithium to make them, so the only way this can work - cars will cost like £200k+ and only rich, famous or important will be able to use them. Like in 1920s or soviet union. Normal people will have no way of buying them and nowhere to charge them. As for pollution form cars, again I have argued quite a few times and it varies between years, but generally pollution from transportation is ~10%, private and light vehicles (so that includes commercial vans and taxis) - 2.4% (2.1% diesel, 0.3% petrol). So even if we replace all cars with BEV that is only 2.4% of pollution. But wait - BEVs still not 100% clean, they are about 30% cleaner, so... that is 0.8% of pollution and our government and ecomentalists are ready to cause havoc and turn the society to dystopian mess for 0.8%... And that point is ~65-85MPH nowadays. Even at 90MPH one is way more efficient than at 20MPH. It really depends on each individual car, aerodynamics, gearing etc. But if I remember right the petrol was most efficient at ~30% load and relatively low RPM (say 2000), meaning one has to get to top gear and do quite high speed to load engine 30%. Diesels were most efficient at ~40% load and even lover RPM ~1100, so as long as diesel is mated with right gearbox, they can even go 100MPH provided car is aerodynamic. But even then UK already has lowest NSL in Europe and 70MPH is already "eco speed". So this argument about reducing speed limits to reduce emissions is only really relevant on German autobahn, and nowhere else in Europe.. or the world. Like yes it is true, that driving at 80MPH car will be more efficient that at 140MPH... Now Obviously, I am not saying there should be 80MPH limit in local town centre, but as you said - speed reduction only works to certain point and in principle only applies to motorways. Anything below 60MPH is already suboptimal, so decision of speed reduction from 30 to 20MPH should never be based on pollution. This is misconception or wilful ignorance and in most cases I thin reduction to 20MPH increases the pollution. Again highly depends on the car, but there is no way to load-up engine to ~30%-40% at 20MPH and keeping low RPM, even silly new X-Trail with 1.2L engine can't manage that. Now for trucks - they do have like 16-20 gears, and if they are loaded then they can get 40% load on the engine at relatively low speeds, but even then 20MPH is too low. Probably 50-60MPH is where they are most efficient.

The problem here is that despite majority of public actually driving (something like 75% of journeys and 80% of trip miles are in the cars), only minority are "motorists, gearheads, motorheads" or in short enthusiasts who actually care. The problem here is that it seems society overall hates motorists and motoring, because over many years it was politically convenient to demonise motorists. Same as it was politically convenient to blame immigrants, EU, or anyone but the government in charge. I mean literally looking at articles motorists and immigrants have same underlying negative connotation. Like you will never read that crash happened because of bad road, poor design, unclear layout or that sub-optimal roads caused delays, or traffic - it is always motorists, speeding, not keeping safe distance, flocking something all at once... or anyway it is somehow always motorists fault no matter. And again this negativity over the time made it such that society (despite many using cars themselves) tries to distance themselves from motorists and considers motorists as some sort of sub-humans who have no rights and cannot demand anything. So yes RAC and AA exists, but they are viewed as "devil advocates" and not seriously considered, they don't have same political power as some lycra warriors do and further they are kind of compromised already, they rarely make fuss of anything expect making comment somewhere on the news. They never really did what would be expect from strong pro-motoring society or lobby, like maybe organising protests or educating public etc.

I don't think they are related, however they are similar - as they are equally useless, achieves opposite effect and increases pollution, noise, cost of maintenance and further associated pollution, because replacing shock absorber or wheel not only costs money, it is waste it is pollution. Let's not forget other contraptions like narrow gates. All in all, these all measures works together to make roads hostile for road users as much as possible and as discussed it seems like the goal is to drive people mad to the point where they quit driving. Roads are children playground except the one where instead of soft cushions on every edge there are needles, razors, spikes and all sorts of nasty hidden traps. So I guess idea here is that if you every took your kids to playground and they came back all cut and bruised, you wont take them there anymore. However... is it only me or it is criminally negligent to do this? Like they deliberately hurting people, maybe not physically, but at very least financially? How is that "okey"? There is one further caveat - technically speed humps have to be engineered in a way that car passing them at the posted speed limit should not needs slowing down, angle and height should be calculated as such that passing them at certain speed they should be nearly unnoticeable. So if it is 30MPH roads, then you should be able to drive over hump at 25-35MPH let's say without slowing down and it should not be very uncomfortable and certainly should not damage the car. As we all know the reality is completely different however - they come in all shapes and forms and one newer knows whenever they will pass the hump without noticing it, our you may leave half of your suspension and oil pan scattered on the road. This is technically "illegal" and council should be liable for damages, but it is very hard to prove. That said these rules applies only on the "main" roads where speed limit is 20MPH+, so by turning roads into 20MPH zones councils avoids any responsibility for incorrectly installed speed humps as well. In other European countries speedhumps are regulated and only approved design can be fitted, in UK any retard can build a wall with engineering not so much different from one required for sand castle. I have long said speed humps should be made illegal as they are very retarded way of controlling speed in modern times (19th century solution for 21st century), they actually kill more people than they save (by slowing down ambulances and hurting patients), but they still commonly used. To be fair given a choice I would rather have speed camera than speed hump or narrow gate, at least going at speed limit past the camera one has nothing to worry about, whereas speeds humps does not discriminate against any speed and ruins everyone's life equally bad.

I would add that this extremely dangerous not to be able to speed in certain situations, where it is the car itself monitoring it. As it happens I always rent premium cars and often they come with tracking, which is fine... rental companies don't want their cars to be rented and then stolen and perhaps insurance insists on it as well. But recently some companies went further - they have clause in the contract saying that if you speed for more than 10km/h for 5 minutes, or if you ever exceed 25km/h you will pay 50 Euro "fee". So although this is not the law it is contractual agreement. Now on the face of it seems ok in the cities and on motorways, but it is completely impossible to drive like this on highways as overtaking is basically impossible - ever tried overtaking truck by going just 10km/h faster? It takes forever! And if you go over 20km/h which by the way isn't really that much faster when overtaking, then instead of looking at road, you are looking at your speedometer so that you don't exceed 25km/h - it is dangerous! The point is overtaking is the most dangerous manoeuvre there is, so the less time it takes on the opposite side of the road, the better. As such my experience tells me that I should decide whenever to overtake based on road conditions, gap between upcoming cars and capability of my car. So if there is 20s gap and I know car is capable of overtaking in 10s I will go for it, floor it and complete the overtaking as fast as possible regardless of what speed I will momentary reach during the overtaking, focus is on returning to your own side of the road as quickly as possible. But with the contraption saying that you will pay 50 Euro every time logic doesn't work and you basically have to take more risk by overtaking extremely slowly, not because your car isn't capable or not because road conditions doesn't permit it, but because you have to stick to the limit... and on top of that watch speedometer instead of watching the road. And one would say 10km/h is ok for overtaking... if truck is doing say 80 and speed limit is 90, then you will be overtaking basically 20km/h (~5m/s) and if truck is 25m long, then it will take ~5s... but you kind of need to start the overtaking truck length begin and return leaving some space in front of the truck, so that is suddenly 15s. And what happens if you are overtaking and there is sign saying speed limit is now 70km/h? Should you break on other side of the road? Should you continue overtaking and accept 50 Euro fee? It really doesn't sound like much of an handicap until theory meets the practice and it turns out that sometimes speeding j is needed for safety. And as well - it isn't so much of an issue that you can't speed more than 25km/h, much more of an issue is that you have to watch speedometer instead of watching the road.

Well apparently more people have tin foil hats than I previously thought 😄 What I would say here sounds logical and common sense, but as you said the common sense is not that common - ONLY the meaningful and necessary traffic signs adds value. So there is a limit to which reduction of signs have value, but for sure removing 2/3 of UK signs would be good ballpark. Most of signs I see are just too much, adds no value, confuses everything and dilutes the important information. That seems to be supported not only by tin foil, but as well by science... what a surprise! As well today I seen article saying that Kent council was surprised that introducing 20MPH speed limits has not changed people behaviour and has not motivated drivers to use other modes of transport. Apparently my conspiracy theory of their actual goals was not too far away - they don't care about safety or environment, they just want us to STOP DRIVING period. Is it just me or they are saying the quiet part out loud?! So true - average volcanic eruption emits ~7 times the annual global human CO2 emissions. I can't see Greta boycotting the volcanoes yet?!

I guess depends on perception and principle. I am probably allergic to public transport, but I would never put "public transport" and "good" in same sentence. I guess public transport is "good" in London in terms of frequency and coverage (in some countries or even cities outside of London there are simply places where you simply can't go on public transport), but it is still bad value for money (I consider public transport should be free), it is slow, it is dirty and probably worst of all it is not the public transport but the people on it (which is kind of what it makes it public). As my car currently does not run I take taxi to work - I can't stand being in public transport, certainly not during peak hours. If Uber decides to charge something stupid like £50 in the evening I sometimes take train, but only because it is quiet ~8PM, but any time between 8AM and 8PM for me it is unusable. Most of the time I can get Uber or Bolt for ~£8-14 and I rather use that than take train for ~£6.80. I haven't been on the bus for probably 12 years and I lived in London for 16. To my horror I will be starting new job next week and will have to be in office 2 days a week and it is only central like which goes there - I am already preparing hazmat 😄 It is already the case on dumb motorways - when there is speed limit I have noticed several times where speed goes 60 > 60 > 60 > 60 > 60 > 50 > 60 > 60 > 60. And I know official explanation - "it is (stupid)smart motorway and it senses the traffic and adjust automatically", but I don't buy this BS. I think it is done deliberately to catch out people and it is very hard to notice, because usually you coming at 70MPH/NSL and you see speed restriction on first gantry is 60, second gantry 60 and then you stop looking, because most of them will be 60, but there is often one with 50. And call me blind, but 50 and 60 looks very similar if you don't pay attention and usually people just don't pay attention after first few gantries. And it is fair to say "mate if you don't pay attention that is your fault", bit is is not that I don't pay attention to the road, I just don't pay attention to useless repetitive signs and that is not the same thing - brain goes like "yeah I know it is speed restriction, I have already slowed down". As well I don't know what "wireless" are thinking, but if we care about environment then focus should be on never changing speed limits, because most wasteful is braking, hence every time speed limits change we just polluting more... and I been driving a lot in EU and they kind of have big problem with speed limits in country side, even more than UK. So you have usual 90 KM/h), but in some places 70, but sometimes it goes 80 and then 60, then there is 1 house in the forest 200m away from the road which constitutes "town" so it's 50. Even on motorways/autobahns... going under the bridge 110? Like what? will the bridge fall onto me? and if it does fall onto me then how going at 110 going to help? Not only this constant change in speed limits is bad for fuel economy and environment, but it is unsafe - this is because driver spends most of his/her attention looking at the side of the road for the limits and has no time to look what is actually ON THE ROAD. As such if I can afford it I usually ignore the limits altogether (like driving British car abroad), because it is much safer to ignore the limits, drive at speed which is safe based on road conditions and focus on the road itself. But I appreciate this isn't solution for everyone, especially when speeding ticket in UK can ruin your life. Those lycra warriors can reach 20MPH themselves and when they fly by red light almost hitting pedestrians crossing the road, they don't see any issue with that.

Not really, both RX and GS450h has 2GR-FXE, which is clearly a "2GR", but not THE "2GR". As far as physical appearance goes they are very similar, but it is tuned completely differently (278hp) and attached to CVT, one further complication on RX is that on RX engine is mounted transversally and mounts to body via gearbox/transaxle. So that means it will require standalone ECU +£1000, and it may require custom brackets for starter etc (because hybrids don't have the standard starter) and in case of RX it will require all custom mounting as well... so at that point UZ is definitely better way to go. Point being - crashed IS250/GS300 can be bought for £800-£1500 for compart with all parts needed for swap, GS450h and RX450h will be more like £2000-£3000 because a lot of people bidding high for batteries, + they will require standalone ECUs or will only make 278hp + RX will require custom mounts + custom starter bracket. GS430/SC430 again could be had for probably £2000 and they will only require custom engine mounts. At some point I was wondering how IS450h would drive, meaning taking GS450h with the hybrid part, but that is complexity on the whole other level.

It always takes time to find the car in right spec. for right price. In my case it was a bit extreme, but I was looking to get RC for 2 years until I found literally perfect car for the price which had everything without any compromises. At the start there were no RC, neither 200t, not 300h F-sport under £26k and Sunroof, Black exterior and Red interior was must-haves for me. The only compromise I could make was Premium vs. ML speakers, but nothing was available for quite some time. Until eventually one turn-up for sale listed for £17k at Lexus dealer completely fully loaded with every possible option and Black with Red. Sure it was on the higher side on mileage (55k for 2.5 years old car) and cosmetically it was not perfect, but that allowed me to knock down some more money off the price getting it for £15.5k. Now it turned out I didn't like, but market exploded and I was able to sell it for £19k 2 years. I am not saying it is reasonable to wait for 2 years for a car, what I am trying to say - you cannot expect perfect car to be ready there when you ready to buy, if you want perfect car now then you have to either overpay, or compromise on some option, or wait until it turns-up for sale. As long as your expectations are more or less realistic this will happen sooner or later and therefore if you don't want to overpay or compromise, then you have to be patient.

Yes, the controls are in the middle, but I am sure they still fit in same place as pre-facelift. Although there are 2 connectors inside which had to be moved.

Yes. BUT - you have to tell seller exactly what you have e.g. ML, non-ML, non-SatNav. The difference is only wiring harness and they should send you correct wiring harness based on what you have, the units are same apart of that.

This is the reason I have decided to go with new vents, because as you can see the old ones where ruined somehow, not sure what happened to them: @J Henderson As well these are the pins which needs to be moved down maybe 2mm to remove the vets. Vents clips into head unit as well so just be mindful of that.