Linas.P

Indeed that is possible, that is basically the key point of having memory seats. So if two people use the same car, they each can have their own key and everything adjusts to their preferred size. I think in total you can link 3 different keys. The way to set it - first obviously set the memory on the seats (say setting 1 for yourself and setting 2 for your wife), then turn the car OFF, close all the doors, press and hold desired memory function (1, 2, 3) AT the same time as pressing and holding "lock" key on desired key fob. In my experience works better if second key is not even close to the car (in theory should not matter). Page 22 for both if you have car manual, not sure what it would be on pdf. So basically, first record preferred memory option on seats and mirrors for yourself and wife (let's say positions 1 and 2), then take only the key you want to link with you to the car and follow the steps for memory setting 1, put the key away, take another key repeat the same steps for memory setting 2. Now one thing that always bugged me sharing the car was the interior mirror... but I am guess I am just picky and one can't have everything all the time.

Well that is at very least 90% of of them... so not all of them are UX, just most. I am not sure about devaluing the brand statement as there is nothing left to devalue - Lexus is pretty much just rebadged Toyota anyway and in last 5 years it pretty much lost last of it's soul. The only REAL Lexus models left are LS and LC, so that are two flagships. RX and NX are very decent and justifies the premium over Toyota, but the rest of models are joke. UX and ES are prime examples... LBX it is even worse than that. Again, the reason why they felt Yaris-Cross needed Lexus badge is rather simple - Toyotas are incredibly expensive and overpriced nowadays. The shaitbox which say 20 years ago would have competed at £10-15k range (a Yaris basically) now costs £30k... what?! Original Yaris launched in 1999 with the price tag of £7,495. Not £17,000 - £7,000! So the correct price for Yaris today would be £13,664 adjusted for inflation. Okey Yaris-Cross is the Yaris on stilts (still cost exactly the same for Toyota to build), so let's say that is sub-model within Yaris family, base one costs £14,000, "Cross" costs £16,500. This would be about right as that would be exactly in the middle between RAV4 and Yaris originally. That is the price we are talking about, that is how much supermini Toyota is WORTH. Except the list price for Yaris Cross starts at £24,400 and ends at £29,800, so let's just say it is nearly DOUBLE what it is WOURTH. So here is the problem - Toyota wants to make even more money than that, but there is NO WAY to sell Yaris for even more money than what is already practically double the cost. As any buyer coming to look at it would be confused "am I buying Toyota supermini here, or am I buying entry-level exec. BMW or MB". Again C-Class, 3-Series and Lexus IS used to cost in mid-30s and now you get Yaris for this money. So Toyota could not go above £30,000 with their badge on the hood, and sticking Lexus badge is the way of masking how incredibly overpriced is Toyota. Because now suddenly you not paying £35,000 for Yaris "no that would be ridiculous", you paying it for "Toyota LBX... I mean Lexus Yaris... you know... that thing". And again, make no mistake - from manufacturing perspective it costs the same whenever they are making Yaris, LBX, Yaris-Cross or whatever. Sure things like good quality leather costs more, but LBX is not getting leather (at all)! Pressing the panels in more "striking" shape does not make them more expensive. Now - I give it to Toyota ... very clever marketing and if there are idiots who will pay £35,000 for what is essentially Yaris on stilts, then why not charge them that. I kind of hate this abuse of consumers, sort of "if you are idiot then it is fine to overcharge you" mentality... which is what most scammers generally use as an excuse for scamming people "they are too stupid, so they deserve to be scammed"... but to some extent that is true. If they put this thing in their showroom and people come and voluntary pay the money for it, then what can they do... not take it?! Until consumer becomes more educated and simply more strapped for money... this won't end. Clearly in the west we have too much disposable income if we pay £35,000 for Yaris with Lexus badge!

Seem little desperate to mention it was done in EV... 2000 miles isn't really a challenge for a car, just been in Normandy in June in 18 years old Lexus and did similar distance ~1800miles and never event had a thought this could be a challenge, or that I would need to compliment the car for being able to do it. Wake-up in the morning and drive as long as you want, the distances in Normandy aren't really that huge, but regular 200-300km a day and also what was cool is that in Normandy they have E85 (85% Ethanol) for just 1 Euro/L (99-103 cents), sure MPG is not the same (~28MPG vs. ~34MPG) but compared with 1.8 Euro for E95 it still made a lot of sense. And it takes what... maybe 2 minutes to refill, never considered my route, never need to look for special charger... Now sure it was not 6 people, because GS300 isn't a massive road tearing 2500kg SUV, but apart of that comfortably fitted 4 people and all the luggage for a week. Like - "ohhh WOW my car was able to do 2000 miles trips"... yeah - any car should be able to do it, but I guess even such a small feat apparently is badge of honour in BEV world?! Okey - well done for doing that any car from last 50 years can do without a sweat!

This is pretty standard place to have rust issues on any car (the rear wheel arches), basically if stone chips are not addressed in time it will start rusting. The side panel goes into "C-pillar" and it is one big panel. Fixing it is not that big of the issue but in UK I would expect to pay ~£500 for that. The work is same as on any other rust panel, cut the piece out, weld replacement and paint... just blending is quite difficult on such big panel and on your paint (blue metallic). This is not MOT fail, but will get more and more pricey the more you wait. Although, very unlikely to cause any structural issues you mentioned - it would take literally few decades before structural issues would happen from rear arches rust. And IS250 overall quite rust proof car, it only rusts on damaged areas and they must be left for a very long time. The headlights, do not look too bad, so no MOT issue yet (but it will become eventually). The lights can be simply polished - I do it quite often actually. Total cost ~£50-150, depending if you do yourself and depending how many tools you have and how many you need to buy.

That actually makes your case stronger i.e. you could not see it, because it was full of water. The council has 1 single defence - that is "there were signs on the roads advising of potholes". This is how it should be marked: If sign was there then anything goes and councils are known to abuse these signs e.g. instead of fixing the roads they just put the signs to shield themselves from liability. Whereas intention of the sign is just to be placed there "temporary" until repairs are done and this should be reasonable amount like couple of weeks, but some of these signs are known to be placed for many years. Now the cases are known to succeed, where owners managed to prove council used the signs like that for years without actually fixing any pot holes or having any contracts in place, but that is very vey complicated, often requires FOI request etc. BUT... If such sign is not present, they have to pay. Now sure - process is not straight forward, you need to stop and measure the pothole (ideally right away), approximately over 20mm depth and over 100mm in circumference is what counts (although that is just general guidance, particularly sharp edges, or very deep but small hole can as well cause damage), you have to report it to council, then you have to get your car inspected by authorised shop, get estimate etc... In other countries insurance helps with all that, in fact I used to do that regularly abroad - car gets damaged by pot hole, I get claim on insurance as non-fault and if all the details provided insurance will recover damages (so it does not affect the cover at all), but in UK I would be inclined NOT to report it to insurance (at all), because in UK they will class it as accident, hike your premium, but will NOT help you at all (apart of maybe being a witness and providing inspection), but they will not pursue the costs for you like in other countries. So you may have to hire the claims management company (they take 20-25% of the claim) or get your own lawyer, or do it yourself, but that is rather painful ~6 months process. Last thing - if after reporting everything and getting estimate for repairs they still not paying up, then small claims court route should be used. In my experience they pay right away before it gets to the hearing. So they do pay-up in almost all cases, but it is not easy to get to that point and not many people actually claim. The best claims are usually when pot hole caused break-down, so basically punctured tyre or bent wheel... as that is obvious, easy, if you have roadside assistance they get called, you can use them as witness and that makes for strong case. Suspension components are harder, but if you documented it well it is as well possible to claim. And who doesn't like free shocks on councils account?! https://www.gov.uk/claim-for-damage-to-your-vehicle

Can't blame the tyres then!

That is never ending story... I remember quite vividly renting 1.2L C2 in Tenerife... could not maintain 130km/h on the motorway (literally - on incline, it would go 120>110>100 and would almost stall, so I would have to downshift into 5th, then 4th and do 6000RPM just to stay at 110 uphill) , could not get-up the mountain and overall over ~500km (Tenerife is small place) the fuel economy was 14L/100km (that is ~20 British MPG). Now C2 is small car and 1.2L in 2008 car probably wasn't as powerful as modern 1.2, 1.0L or even 0.9L engines, but C2 is as well not freaking Nissan X-Trail which unbelievably now comes in 1.2L guise. That is literally just criminal, because that little engine just shaites itself every time the car needs to move. This is all based on stupid economy requirements and theoretical CO2 emissions. Reality is that overstressed and underpowered small engines are just not reliable, not economical and overall just false economy. Good example is RC200t - 2L turbo... not that small engine, nut for 1800kg car it is inadequate... horrible economy etc. I now get better economy in GS300 with 3L V6, which theoretically is less economical and more polluting, but provides similar power and much smoother. And here is the thing , does not matter what it says on the paper 0 if car uses more fuel then it pollutes more. I remember 5th gear did a test (I think it was 5th gear) comparing old Porsche Cayman 2.5 H6 to new 2L turbo H4... and it was producing 60% more pollution in same conditions despite theoretically being "cleaner" and more fuel "efficient". Sure - not every car needs 6L V8, but there is limit below which car can't be economical... I feel for very tiny cars that is perhaps 1.6L (like Fiat 500), then 2L for compact (Golf) and anything larger should have appropriately larger engine. And turbos are just no replacement for displacement unless the engine is 3L+

I am just wondering - what tyres were on the car when the accident happened? Could that have an impact on what happened? Myself I always prioritise wet performance over anything else, kind of because of this reason in particular - aquaplaning is scary.

That is good point - if we make comparison with CT then even F-Sport will be better, just whole different class of the car. Same here - digital dash alone make it feel like modern car and ride may not be as good as on car with 17" but still very decent. Or for that matter if you compare it with BMW 3-series with rock hard run-flats it will be much better as well.

Test drive would answer you question the best. I personally think that F-Sport (electronic/adaptive) suspension on the softest setting (normal) is about the same as standard suspension, but it could be set much harder when it Sport/Sport+. What makes F-Sport ride harder is larger 18" wheels compared to 16-17" on other versions. Tyres makes a major role as well - F-Sport originally shipped with many tyres that are just not great (Bridgestone Turanzas, Dunlop Sport 001s) and changing the tyres could make a massive difference. Best comparison would be to compare between F-Sport and Premier, as they are both have 18" wheels and see how much difference there is between them. The caveat - adaptive suspension was optional on some Premier cars so one need to make sure it is not fitted. Either way - IS300h F-Sport ride is not really that hard. I can only compare it IS250 SEL and indeed when I had 17" wheels I would say F-Sport was noticeably firmer, but not less comfortable, but when I upgraded to 18" wheels I would say they were about the same.

Should be possible - there are big holes in firewall on both sides with rubber gasket... that said the harness going trough them is very thick as well, so I am not sure how much space there is to pull additional wire. Alternative would be running it under the car and using existing holes for O2 sensors that comes just by the side of gearbox.

https://lexuspartsdirect.co.uk/product/lexus-rc-f-sport-phase-1-rear-bumper-protection-plate/

Sadly EV pollution happens in manufacturing, so that is too late to take them out of their misery. The least polluting option would have been to drive them all to 500k miles as quickly as possible, but at 0 miles they are basically the most polluting they can be, so the worst time to set them on fire.

Carbon build-up is nowhere near as big issue in UK as it is in US, I really don't know why, but in UK (and Europe) IS250 rarely have this issue, at least not to the point where it becomes a problem. I have previously assumed my car has carbon build-up (at ~180k miles) and I did hydrogen cleaning which actually made absolutely no difference. Rough idle could be result of many reasons, throttle body, lambda, o2, gearbox solenoids (especially if as you said it happens when you coming to stop engine almost wants to stall), it could be spark plugs (if you say it seems like it is misfiring - maybe it actually is misfiring?). Many different things can be causing it... for example seizing idlers, or seizing A/C compressor, failing A/C compressor clutch or failing A/C compressor clutch solenoid can cause it as well, there is literally few dozen things to consider. So just assuming you have issue with carbon, because this seems to be common issue in US and generally DI engines is kind of premature. Now there is some good info - 114k miles and full dealer service is good start. Spark-plugs 4 years ago checks out as well. 5k miles since last service is good, but at the same time it needs oil soon. 10k miles service schedule is BS, these cars needs oil much more often (same cars in Europe gets serviced every 10k kilometres, so 6k miles)- I would say at least once a year and no more than 3-6k miles intervals, especially if driven a lot in city traffic. Lexus own service schedule says that 10k miles are "extended service interval" and there are certain things that one has to comply with to qualify e.g. if car "often" is driven for long periods of time at "high-speed" (e.g. 2h on motorway at 70MPH), if car is used for towing, if car is "often" used in city traffic then they do NOT qualify for extended intervals and thus should receive service every 3-6k miles. Other things to consider - O2 and Lambda are rated for 75k miles, if they are getting "lazy" which would be expected by 114k, then you can get rough idling. Same for throttle body and for MAF, they can get dirty and cause rough idling, both can be cleaned. In short - there are several things that you can check, but carbon build-up would not be even in top 10 of my list of the issues to worry about.

Normally if you buy Lexus "Used Approved" car it will come with 1 year manufacturer warranty (not Relax) and 1 year of LRA. This is often (always?) added as part of "Used Approved" scheme, not sure if all sales include this, but at least mine did... that said mine did include 2 years complimentary service as well as that was part I was able to negotiate. Manufacturers warranty provided as part of sale is much more comprehensive than Relax, but if your car was recently serviced then it may technically be covered by both. Relax for 10k miles or 12 month whichever comes sooner and with Lexus Manufacturer warranty (equivalent) for 12 month after the sale (I believe it is unlimited miles as well). If you have LRA, then you should have a card (looks like credit card) stating your client number, number plates of the car and the date until it is valid. If you just recently bought the car, then it may take 2 weeks to arrive via post (although mine arrived before I actually pick-up the car).

I actually considered that myself as well, sadly it doesn't work out as "cheap roundabout" it is, any decent one is like £6000. Just can't see myself paying triple the price of fully loaded GS300 over smaller and less well equipped CT200h, obviously very different cars for different people. In that same sense one can even have IS300h for very similar money and CT price just doesn't represent the car you get.

Partially because they are lighter, but more likely because larger wheels will come with wider tyres, wider tyres are always less fuel efficient like for like e.g. if you take identical tyre then say 225 will be more efficient than 255.

Impossible to answer the question as you have not stated the price, nor condition and if it is not UK car, then again it will be very difficult for most of the people around here to advise as used car prices in different countries vary a lot. As for 140k kilometres itself - again that is not really an indicator of anything, if it was taxi or rental then it will be trashed, but if it was privately owned, routinely maintained and driven on longer journeys it may be almost as good as new. 140k in itself is not much for Lexus and if well maintained they can go double or even triple that distance without issue. Obviously, Lexus IS300h SE is once of the lowest trim options and in my personal opinion - so poorly equipped that I would question if it is even worth getting Lexus at this point. Perhaps better trim option of Toyota would be wiser purchase i.e. you paying premium to have a badge, but getting no benefits due to low spec. Perhaps similar year, but higher trim Mazda, Toyota or Honda would have better options for less money?

Upon further reflection against GS300, I think I may be little bit unfair for IS300h when it comes to MPG. Now key things doesn't change - it still does not like speeds above 65MPH, so staying below that speed is best for economy... in contrast with non-hybrid Lexus which seems to prefer 75-85MPH range. However, I was driving GS300 for few months now and that returns 28-34MPG, leading me to conclusion that I simply didn't give IS300h enough chance to get good MPG due to driving it in heavy traffic both in city and motorway, and when motorway was not too busy I was driving it way faster than it would be wise to state on the public forum. If that is the MPG I achieve on GS300, then IS300h should be able to do 40+ without issues.

Does not sound like a great engine - poor performance, poor economy and inherently flawed design. In context IS220d almost doesn't sound that bad after all (I know it is sinful to say ! 😄 ) How about GS300 - cheap as chips, mostly the same as IS250 just bigger. I know - I didn't want bigger car than IS250 myself and GS300 is a boat, but the value for money is undeniable.

I think it is important to look at it in relative terms, all cars needs tyres as this is just consumable like petrol, so it is neither here nor there. All cars needs to be serviced and when they get to 60k miles it is a major one. Rear shocks needing replacement at 60k - that is kind of unfortunate, but if related to pot-hole then again just the part of car ownership (theoretically road owner has to pay for damages caused, so that is usually council, but I don't know the circumstances). What I am getting to - in the ownership of Lexus that is only last 7 months that are expensive, if you owned another make it is very likely all the months and all the years of ownership would be continuously like that. When I sold my IS250 I did total ownership cost summary and all I needed to do with the car and it was one of the cheapest long term cars I owned ever. I remember putting £600 "maintenance pot" a year in my financial estimations, but I think average worked out at just £400 over 6 years and 80k miles.

What you mean by "not starting" - no crank, cranks, but does not start, starts but stalls, completely dead - no lights, does not cycle between off>ACC>IG... etc. As well why fuel tank solenoid was changed, what was the issue before that? Now in itself fuel tank return valve should not cause no start issue, regardless if there is solenoid or if there is nothing at all, but I expect the car would stall at some point and there would be VSC light. Or would start poorly (basically valve open and too low fuel pressure). It could be quite few things that could cause it - and information so far is insufficient to diagnose it.

No... it would be just set by dealer very-high, not sure you can set the pressures yourself without Techstream, but that can be set to your desired pressure. So now basically whenever it goes either below or above the set target by 2 or 3 PSI it triggers a warning.

P.S. - Here you go £200 worth of quality Thule bars ALREADY with the box - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325735951450 Just note - roof box will add like 50% to fuel consumption. So that is not fun either.

That would be real abomination mate. Is the IS250 roof strong enough to support roof bars - yes THE MODEL SPECIFIC ONES that are attached to specifically designed slots. Now yes - plastic trim is removable, although clips which always breaks are like £9 each and there are like 11 on each side (I know you can get them from China in bulk for like £20, but good luck finding exact ones). So that is £200 just for the clips you would need to replace, when entire model specific roof bars can be found for like £100-£150 used. They were like £350 brand new from Lexus. And are you really planning to drill the holes into your car roof to salvage some junk Discovery roof bars?! I am not even talking about the looks as that is subjective, but I can't see utility either. I can only see million ways of how this can go wrong and not a single way it could go right. First of all, unless you use existing slots that are reinforced and meant for such thing (they have little covers you can remove and check), the roof is just thin sheet metal and would bed from slightest force... that is not great unless your goal is "ripple effect" one the roof. Then just waterproofing and leaks, yes I have seen you planning to put rubber gasket, but one thing for sure - the water ingress in your car roof is last thing you want and drilling holes is kind of asking for trouble. Then you need to check the electrical wiring as some of it goes via roof rails, it is minor, mostly for lights and sunroof if you have one, but if you drill trough them and short something then expect problems. Structural integrity is another thing, although I don't believe two holes would weaken it that much, but holes in the roof are generally less desirable than no holes in the roof. In summary - here you going for maximum pain and risk, to fit something that doesn't meant to be fitted on your car and doesn't even look good (in my opinion) instead of looking for some used IS250 specific bars (or even cheaper universal bars for that matter) and planning to do £200+ of damage to your own car to save £100. Just don't!