Linas.P

That is probably personal thing, I would actually go for RC-F if I could afford having RX as second car. My current 2.5l v6 is on the bottom edge of the power I want, I would never consider car with engine less than 2.5l and ideally 3.0+ (with few exceptions like BMW i8 maybe). 2.0l + turbo for me it is a little bit of cheating ( had Passat CC 2.0 TSI ... hated every mile on that car). Appreciate, turbo and reasonable base e.g 3-4l v6 or v8 (ok straight-6 BMW) where the base power is enough to drive comfortably and extra induction aids some "madness" in certain RPM range. That completely doesn't work out on 1.6, 1.8 or 2l engines in my opinion .. well unless its golf (same engine in passat... or Lexus is bad taste). RC/IS 300h are only appealing because of the obvious benefits when taxing and other associated costs (call them government initiatives). I probably can accept, 300h suits Lexus character i.e. quiet, refined, luxurious. 200t is more a little bandit, golf boy racer (no offence to owners :)). 350 I guess is real joy without the price tag and unreasonable expenses of "F", just straight forward v6 petrol - simple and honest. It might be I am the only one thinking like that in UK...

Well yes, you are right.. I am just talking from experience - diesel cars are not designed to do low miles/short journeys. It is fair to claim that they are simply not well designed, because this is not indicated anywhere. back to topic - the face lift seems unnecessary in my opinion, but it is just standard thing in product life-cycle. I kind of hate that Lexus in UK have very restricted product range e.g. there are no IS/RC 350s. 200t sounds equally wrong as 220/200d, while 300h is not really 300... rather 200+100. thinking out all cons. and pros. I would probably go for 300h, but if I would have option of 350.. that would be main choice. I guess maybe this is strategy to push for IS-F/RC-F - as they believe in UK buying power makes this a reasonable upgrade. Essentially, giving two extremes "over-practical aka boring" or "mad".

Is that on premium or standard? Actually just wanted to note as well..it is actually is very hard to compare fuel in Lexus IS250. This is because it has "Smart" ECU which can change ignition timings based on driving style or fuel used. That said it is very unlikely to see any difference in MPG what ever fuel you use. I generally find that I get highest MPG from asda standard fuel (the cheapest), but this after finishing tank of premium. My guess is that when it tastes cheap fuel it temporary retards ignition timing which translates in some fuel saving... We are talking here about 0.1-0.2MPG. I guess to make any meaningful conclusion somebody needs to do 10k miles on single brand fuel in controlled environment which is obviously impossible. My personal opinion is that it is good idea to use premium fuel periodically to help reduce carbon built-up etc. (or fuel additives from super market whichever work outs cheaper). Neither helps improve MPG in short term, but makes economical sense in long run.

That is actually very strange.. It is unlikely that Scottish dealers would have different service manual?! Are they doing it in anticipation of colder weather (where lower viscosity oil is likely to perform better maybe?). Probably, it would be hard to make any comparisons especially considering that both 5W30 and 0W30 are in comparison low viscosity. Will ask Lexus Woodford for this week for opinion..

I believe Lexus (and any other manufacturer) only cares about car which are within warranty. That is when 95% of owners will bring the car in authorised service, therefore is very unlikely that somebody will put wrong oil while car is still within the manufacturers warranty. Even majority of independent garages would know the difference and even if they put slightly wrong oil it won't be ultimate ends (like A5 vs C3), but maybe something like A5 vs. A1. That matters even less for top-ups (which are more likely that owners will do themselves). I would be interested if anyone have any experience using different oil like 0W30?

Hello Everyone, I was planning to decarb my engine for a while now. Emissions is one thing - I am sure I will still be within limits, but engine sound and fuel economy is another thing. I do use Premium fuel every second time to prevent excessive built-up of carbon etc. but at least in my opinion neither fuel additives off-shelf, nor the ones in premium fuel are sufficient to really clean all gunk, especially in IS250 before injectors. I know there are several companies offering "hydrogen decarb" service ~£100. I have hear very good opinions about it , however I am not sure how it is better than DIY cleaning by pumping steam via air inlet. There are million videos how it is done showing before and after results. Can somebody give any recommendation from personal experience? Second thing, I am not sure what impact that can have if engine have large carbon deposits already... wouldn't it block something down the line e.g. catalyst converter? Any opinions/suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I was planing to do this for a while. Can you recommend any specific Hydrogen decarb service? I have found quite many placed offering the same thing for £99, just thought if it is the same everywhere, or maybe it is possible to do it cheaper? Do they as well do emission test before/after or can it be added for additional price - thanks in advance.

I agree 100%. It is easy to explain - How many people really cares what they are driving... 10% maybe, the rest buys any new car with low OTR price and change it every 3 years? How many people are aware about Lexus quality and luxury?... even less. Finally, how many people are looking for 6-10 years old luxury cars - hardly anyone.. Luxury car with Manual - nobody. If I am honest I became fan of Lexus by accident.. almost all my cars before were BMW's and only, I were to choose company car for my father company I have gone for Lexus.. MB C250 was £5k more expensive, BMW E90 is generally ugly car (for company car I can't choose E92), so I gone for Lexus (happy I did). I had 2 Lexus IS250's before the current one so I knew what I am after, but for average person car doesn't stand out on the paper and they look elsewhere. And especially IS250 Manual is not popular, tax and insurance more expensive for what you considering "less of the car". I could buy Manual IS250 for half price I have paid for my Automatic and probably in better condition...

Do you mean, not great by design (like Toyota's 2.2l) or simply used wrongly or maintained poorly? My understanding is that many people are buying diesel cars to save money, without considering that their daily driving is unfit for diesel engines and will not be efficient, then they are facing all kind of issues. I am pretty sure even IS220d is fine if doing mainly motorway driving for 30+ miles per journey doing steady 60-70+.

That sound like you have mixed up what I have added as Audi benefits and what as Lexus... As we know Lexus burned on diesel engines, but I have strong believe majority of Audi sales are diesel. Similarly, regarding the equipment in basic trim level - basic Lexus is already well equipped, while Audi with similar extra stuff might be £45k... As for Audi diesel reliability -definitely better than those on IS220d, but all diesels have same know issue.. never get diesels if not doing many miles on motorways.

I though 2010 was IS200d, unless this one was late registered old model.

I believe it is sad to see it going. As for the selling difficulties and the price - I am completely not surprised. Lexus IS 250 is really good buy (and automatically bad sell), it is a lot of car for asking price as you said yourself it is "fully loaded". Your one was manual as well and they really cost next to nothing right now (I was always curious how you planing to selling it for reasonable rice). If I were you I would have probably kept it in the barn for another 50 years, because current prices are not reasonable. That is actually what I am planning to do with mine few years later. Maybe not to keep in the barn, but maybe just to give it to my sister or girlfriend - they are really no-brainer to sell.

I would say - NO, but I am not expert. If they genuine Xenon with DRL (I believe that is what you referring as LED), the DRL strip will (probably) need separate power and Light sensors will (probably) go mad (not talking from personal experience so do not quote me :) )

I have not tried myself ( so don't treat what I say as a fact). If you buy after market (fake) DRL lights they should be plug and play as far as electrical connection, but you will have issues with everything else e.g. ASF, auto leveling etc. as usually they do not support such features (thought there are different quality levels and I might be wrong). If however you have you hands on the original units (which are crazy expensive) I believe that they have separate connection for DRL strip therefore they are not plug and play in such case the power for the LED strip will need to be fudges somehow (good news it should be low power consumption v12, so no rocket science). However, yet even if you get hold of original units you will still have issues with auto lights etc. as DRL strip will fool the sensor to think that it is not dark and therefore Auto-light will never work. Then again there are variations like Xenon/Adaptable/Standard which you need to get right or deal with additional incompatibility issues. I am sure it can be done, but it is not that straight forward as it might look. (missing the times when I had 2012 F-Sport with DRL).

Lets first clarify what you want to do as it sounds like a bit of mixed up for me. You want to change Pre-Face (2005-08) lift IS220D rear lamps with IS 300h (lookalike chinsese) rear lamps - I guess something like that? - If so there should be no difference whenever it is Pre-Face lift or Post-face lift mode (09+). That is true - Post-Face lift model has different style rear lights, but that has no difference if you planning to use aftermarket ones - check with supplier if the wire harness is provided at all. Usually, rear lights are plug and play, only the front ones are tricky ( I guess the difference you referring to was about Fronts not Rears). You cannot use IS 300h lamps thought as IS 300 is 3rd generation and has completely different shape.

As I said FLSH is as good as bunch of papers if you don't read it and check what was actually done. Exhaust can be replaced with aftermarket ones -£350-£600 for rear section (the one which rusts most). Well.... if you lucky enough to buy form owner directly ... dealers usually have loads of experience of how to hide the issues and answer uncomfortable questions. From my own experience if I would buy IS250 again (and I might do... would be the 4th for me :D ), I would look at: Front Rotors / Rear calipers condition. Pads and rear rotors are usually fine (and cheap to replace). Water pump must be replaced at least once if 100k+ Chain must be checked and "passed" - if no sign of check should ask why! As few as possible advisory items postponed (just shows good care) Worth taking a look under the car and behind engine covers Do a bit of driving and push it to red line (just in case any nasty noise pops up) Do quick and cheap check on MOT history - another source to see if owner was doing maintenance on time. I usually found that owners fails MOT and only then goes to fix something - not good practice.. the car to avoid. I would expect the proper care to include pre-MOT service to make sure all is fine and no advisory items on MOT. Obviously, except ridiculous ones - I have the following: "Advisory notice item(s): Under-trays fitted obscuring some underside components Engine covers fitted obscuring some components in the engine bay" Would have strangled the guy with my hands, what a ridiculous advisory notice - "have you seen Lexus before Mate?! maybe that is by design and you should get over it, or should I remove all OE covers before going to MOT garage?! ". Final thing - contact the dealer which was servicing the car and ask when the last service was done and if you can get the copy of invoice. If you have V5C they usually can do this. The reason for this - people go to do service and get astronomical bill (lest say £4500 for example). Then they do not accept any items, replace only what is induced in service fee, go to the car detailers for "Full valet", then do the part-exchange. The dealer who gets the part-exed car (usually the third party) then trows away the last "shameful" service and claims that cars is FLSH and show the history up to the last invoice. In such case you can easily bring the car back and ask for all your cost to be reimbursed as this is fraud and you can easily win it in Small claims court.

Hello Steve, I believe we have answered you question in the previous tread : http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/107304-from-ls-to-is/ Generally, except of the model related issues buying any used car is the same. Complete service history is always a good sign, but my personal advise is to actually check what is in the history - e.g. are there any advisory items or deferred repairs. That could give a good indication how the car was maintained. Sometimes there are full service history with all stamps from dealer, but if you check what was done you will see that only oil and filters were changed (which are included for free in service anyway), but not any other parts. In such case it is fair to ask why the service was delayed and what is condition of those parts at the moment. This as well gives good reason to ask for discount based on the actual service history quote e.g. if front brake rotors were on advisory items during last service it is quite clear it is now due for replacement - straight on is £300 of additional cost (and possibly discount when buying). Good luck with your purchase

Thank for link, I have visited the page but missed the price for the battery. Lexus Woodford is a bit strange place - I put in service booking online for Minor Service and MOT and asked for some other parts prices like battery. Online and in my information e-mail it states £159+£49 making total of £208. When they called me to confirm the reservation, they not only didn't know what I am booked for, nor my number plate, nor name or any other details (not very professional the least). After giving all than information + VIN number they quoted £195 for Minor Service and £54.99 for MOT - that is where I have disagreed and said that the price is incorrect. The lady called me back later to say they can't find the price (I have quoted) in Lexus website (have no clue which website they were looking at), but they will honor the quote if I bring it with me. So you are right - "it should be", but they quoted £143 over the phone. As I have not checked the price on the website I haven't pointed it out over the phone. I believe I can get them to do it for £95 after all, just by quoting the price from main website and "bringing evidence with me". Though, for £95 I will probably go for Bosch (or Exide).

Thanks ... this info will come very handy :) So basically it is even better, I can blame both sensor and Lexus fuel if anything goes wrong during MOT emissions test :D

As my oil is changed by Lexus I don't pay much attention - they "probably" knows what to put - but it is Castrol Magnetic. If I do oil myself I would just use cheapest 5-30w ( and now I know I need A type) - the reason is that over the years oil improves and what the Lexus used to put in my car in 2008 from Castrol, now is available on supermarket shelves at discounted price. Obviously, current Castrol oil is better, but for engine with over 100k it is unlikely to matter anymore. Premium oil only for the cars under 5 years or under 60k - personal opinion.

I don't think that in short term there are any difference in MPG regardless what you use. If you use only the cheapest and dirtiest fuel over the time you will get built up, which will eventually impact the MPG. However, premium fuel itself doesn't burn better or result it better MPG, it is more for maintaining engine condition. Though, I personally believe that carbon built-up is inevitable and with premium fuel you just accumulating it slower. I am looking into "hydrogen-cleaning" my engine. There are as well plenty of videos of how to DIY it with simple water (just don't use tap water in UK, it is so hard that you get calcium build-up instead of carbon - use deionised water). Myself I am doing cycles of filling every 2-3rd tank with Super Unleaded (whichever brand) between cheap supermarket fuel. The only positive thing is that Super Unleaded have additives to clean the engine. Now it is my 3rd tank on Super Unleaded as the MOT is soon and emissions are a bit of worry. The good news are that Lexus informed me that I have recall for fuel sensor which is not done yet - so if any issues I will blame it on them :D I actually get better MPG on cheap fuel from Asda. Normally 34-38 on motor way, 24-28 in urban. Long term consumption 28.7 MPG.

Thanks for all replies, Bosch is definitely on my list. Has anyone tried Exide? I was quoted £143 for OE replacement at Lexus Woodford, not sure where the price of £95 comes? Anyway I though that for same price (or actually less) I can get really good battery - especially, as I consider OE a bit underpowered. Well The proof of age is on the battery - it was manufactured only 2,5 years ago, so no way older than 4. The problem is that I don't know where the receipt is, so small claims court won't help. The Halfords Service said that battery was sold by Halfords Retail, so they won't honour the warranty and the retail store probably won't take it without receipt anyway. Myself - I will probably keep it as it is, as I have so far not experienced any issues. Just had "fun time" running out of fuel last week (as couldn't believe it, I gave few tries before picking up fuel can and going on foot to petrol station) - the battery gave at least 5 long cranks and another one after refuelling - no issues at all. Now wondering maybe they exaggerated the battery status a bit?!. As well I have checked on ODB and it seems all ok when battery is connected, as well when engine is running, didn't attempt to check battery itself.

That is surely "face-lift", but might be some kind of concept which might materialise partially in 2019-2020 (that is when the life-cycle comes for changing IS). As for Audi A4 I strongly disagree, but we probably need to look at what are your personal criteria for the car, every car has cons. and pros. if the cons. of Audi is not very important for you e.g. poor interior and base trim, dull styling and the pros. are what you looking for e.g. resale value, reliable diesel engines then yes - Audi is for you. As I don't care about diesel (and don't even want to hear about it), want to have well equipped car (Audi and MB are notorious for additional equipment prices) and want it to be petrol/auto (not that much hybrid, but don't mind), and want top class interior materials and build quality... I would stay with Lexus... and with BMW if I want to enjoy driving (fast)..

Hello All, Just did pre-service (at Halfords) of the pre-MOT pre-service. Few advisory items come up - rear brakes pads 8mm, one parking light bulb and failed 12v battery. No surprises there, knew that battery is not in best condition already - just nice to find out why. So the report says that battery failed, performance 0%, the cells shot and short, voltage - 10.29v. Funny enough as car is garaged both at home and where I work I have no issues with battery. Furthermore, it is Halfords own battery (some kind of Platinum with 4 years warranty) and Halfords doesn't want to fulfill their obligation to replace it under warranty. To be fair I don't have a receipt, but the battery is made only 2,5 years ago and fitted just over 2 years ago, quite obviously within the warranty. That said I decided not to replace it until it completely fails. However, already doing some research for the day of failure. My personal opinion is that battery is bit under powered for car with so much gadgets and especially mine being SEL just drains even more power, obviously living in UK have its own benefits e.g. no cold winters, so even cheap batteries last (or at least should). Based on all the information I though that I might go for Exide or Bosch. Cannot say much bad about Halfords, especially considering that it doesn't develop much issues even in such condition, but it is principal for me now not to get one from them, because I feel like their warranty is rather unfair .. Any other opinions or suggestions? Thanks in advance,

PWR is OFF? To be honest even with PWR-ON I have no such issues. Sound weird.