OldTrout

My claim for replacement shock absorbers on my extended warranty has been refused. Lexus Swindon have been dealing with it for me and got a reply today "The reason they have said this is because your warranty covers for unexpected failure of electrical and mechanical components, since this issue was raised on an MOT as an advisory indicates that it is a failing component that you have been made aware of which is reason why they are said it to me wear and tear." So (a) failure was not unexpected, and (b) because I knew about it it is wear and tear. "They" whoever they are, have a very strange way of arguing their case. I don't think the word unexpected occurs in the warranty. The car was under warranty when the MOT advised me that the shocks had a misting of oil and this misting had developed into a leak by the major service before the warranty expired. (I took out a two year renewal a couple of days before the old one expired.) As shocks on the 450h are a known problem they are not unexpected! What to do next? Ask for the decision in writing and then take it to ombudsman?

There are two motors. One is by the catch so I assume that is the boot release. Perhaps one to close and one to release?

Today I changed my reversing lights to LEDs. (They look much brighter on this overcast day but I have yet to test them at night.) There is a lot of wiring under the trim on the underside of the boot lid. In the opposite position to the reversing camera i.e. just above the number plate on the lhs, there is a small motor. What is is for?

KentIS300 please let us know if you solve your AFS problem. I don't think mine works either.

It is important to mention the excess both compulsory and voluntary as well as years NCB, postcode etc. My experience is that renewal notices don't mention how much lower the premium would be if you upped the excess at bit.

Stixall is very good general purpose adhesive. Water resistant, sets in wet and joint is slightly flexible. I have used it to patch holes in a zinc roof. After couple of years I had to replace it as not UV resistant. It doesn't work on soles for shoes but it does for everything else I have tried. Tool station sell it for £4.82. If you don't have Toolsation try builders merchants. It is an Ever Build product. No connection except as user.

Does this help?

Off main topic I know but is this the highest mileage 450h in LOC? Highest mileage of any UK Lexus?

Have you tried http://www.hybridbatterysolutions.co.uk? I'm interested in the 300k miles too.

Carl Perhaps I should come to Gloucestershire rather than Wiltshire. John

Thanks for clarification Shahpor - I misread sorry. Thanks too for little jpg of covered/not covered item which I have sent to chap at Lexus Swindon. The previous warranty which came with the vehicle is a Lexus extended warranty. The paperwork is slightly different in its format and the old one adds the words "5 Year Plus" in its title but otherwise the words are the same. The only specific mention of shock absorbers is in clause 5.7 for "MOT Protected Parts" where they are covered unless they are not an MOT failure item. Failed shocks are an MOT failure aren't they? I guess that by the time of the next MOT in February all four shocks will have gone.

Thanks for the recommendations guys. I took out a 24 months warranty after the major service. At this service one damper was noted as failed and the other three got comments too. Lexus Swindon have tried to claim for me under the warranty but this has been refused on the grounds of "pre-existing condition". This is not a valid reason as the claim is under my old warranty which would not have been issued if there were problems not under the new one which was taken out after the service. When this was mentioned they shifted to "wear and tear". It would be good to cite others who have had dampers replaced under warranty besides Shahpor. Anyone? John

Down here in Oxfordshire we do and I have used the cooled seats a lot this summer. I have used the heated settings less but the F of the S uses heated seats at lot. (And forgets to turn them off so I get cooked next time I drive.) Can't find an "Auto" position on mine Zotto. Is this just for later models? John

Please keep us posted on this project. I too was involved with electronics but had less and less to do with construction when ICs rules went sub-micron. Construction became assembly and was required less and less often. Software was required more and more often. John

Replaced both HID bulbs this morning. Procedure is straightforward enough although access very limited and if you have big hands it is harder. Once you know exactly what the construction is, it is much easier. You need first to twist off the covers shown in my top picture and on the nearside it is easier if you remove the washer tank filler tube. Undo one 10mm bolt and the tube will pull off. 1) Twist to unlock the bulb connector (direction is on the top) and then pull off. Tuck it to one side. 2) Release the two clips which hold the bulb flange down and swing out of the way. 3) Remove the bulb. 4) insert new bulb without touching the envelope. It only sits down in the fitting in one orientation; the bulb envelope support pillar goes it the back of the housing. 5) Hook the clips under their notches holding the bulb secure. 6) Push on the connector onto the bulb base and twist to lock. I replaced both bulbs although only one was going on and off. Replacing the second was much quicker since by then I knew the construction. I can easily imagine that a Lexus dealer would levy a hefty fitting charge. It is not a five minute job. I could probably do it again (whist I still remember how) in 30 minutes from opening to closing the bonnet. I found that the bulb holder can rotate from side to side. This I assume is the way the beams follow the road which answers my own question about which lights move: just these. The other main beam lights do not move. Neither of the old (Philips) bulbs was blackened. (My church has a bank of HID lamps and these bulbs are blackened when they need replacing.) Hope this does not mean that the high voltage bits were the cause of the problems.

My wife asked about but was unable to find the perpetrator. It was likely not a resident but a visitor to the area. Then she called at our garage for advice (50 consecutive MOT there next year!). Helpful lady asked man next door who has body shop. Helpful man polished out the white paint left from other vehicle and cleaned up most of the damage. It is not now visible with quick glance. No charge, pleased to help! Some scratches remain and one of the panels is still pushed in but we can live with that. Just wish we didn't have to.

Thanks Britprius for encouragement over bulbs. The price range is astonishing. Given that my fitting charge is zero, the lower cost ones make sense. I have just ordered a pair on eBay for £16 from UK seller with 99.6% score, which should be delivered by Thursday. There were lots cheaper from the Far East but with indeterminate delivery times. My wife is still waiting for something she ordered from China in March.

Thanks guys. Now to find an assistant with small hands..... .....and possibly buy some bulbs. John

Have I got this right? The headlight is accessed under the bonnet behind a transparent, finned cover as in photo 1 (for offside light). This twists off revealing the bits shown in photo 2 (taken with mirror). I assume the HID lamp is the one roughly in the centre of the photo and might be released by pressing down on the wire clip at 2 o'clock and twisting holder anti-clockwise. The nearside light is a bit more awkward: I removed the washer filler pipe first and hands smaller than mine would be an advantage. Once removed I assume normal precautions i.e don't touch glass and lights have not been on for 24hrs but still be careful with connections. Am I right so far?

Thought I would try Z@*DUNCs tip of swapping bulbs over this morning. But how? Looked on forum to see if any hints anywhere about how to access the bulb but I can't find anything. How do I do it please?

The 450h is the best car I have ever owned and despite 8 years and 104k miles was immaculate when I bought it. Today, after 363 days of ownership, somebody has swiped the back while it was parked. Needless to say they did not own up. The damage looks like this after a gentle wipe with a damp microfibre cloth. Some of the non-red mess appears to be stuck into the paint. In other places there are obvious scratches in the paint. How is it best repaired? Thanks.

Good tip Z28DUNC, thank you. Now the car has come home (having had the back end swiped whilst parked at my wife's work) I have just been to check. The bulb flickered a couple of times and has now stayed on! However I suspect having some bulbs ready to swap in might be a good idea. So back to the question of what to buy.

Thanks messi. Looking for a pair then! RockAuto can do a pair for £109.46 + import duty and VAT I assume with 1 - 2 week delivery from USA. Xenons4U in this country have a pair for £110 with free delivery of about a week. Car Rover have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rover®-Xenon-Headlight-Replacement-light/dp/B012SCGAVA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472211725&sr=8-2&keywords=Philips+D4S+bulb which would be £36 for a pair! (Free Prime delivery tomorrow for me too.) Are these lamps any good? They are so much cheaper?

My car had a major service yesterday at Lexus Swindon at the end of its Lexus warranty. (As advised here I have extended the warranty for a further two years.) They reported a failed bulb on the nearside dipped headlight. They offered to replace it but warned me the bulbs were expensive at £71. Remembering a discussion on this forum I said I would do it myself. The forum discussion mentioned a Toshiba bulb which now seems unobtainable. HIDS4U in Southampton have in stock: Philips D4S XenEco Xenon HID Bulb 42402 for £66, Osram original Xenarc for £35 or Osram Night Breaker unlimited Xenarc for £55. What should I buy and any tips on replacement? John

My experience is that if all the bits are nice and warm and battery has reasonable charge it will move off on battery. Otherwise, even on a hot day, if the bits are cold the engine will start. I think salespersons know this so if you have an appointment to view a car will be all nice and warm and move off on battery very impressively so you buy the car. I did. I have seem my battery fun occasionalyl. John