Shahpor

That is good news!  Good to see a happy outcome for once.

Not sure if is still valid or not, but in the old days we used to run the car pointing uphill to try and force the air out.

You obviously have good taste in music.

Do you have any pictures of actually dismantling the Battery itself?

Did you do in situ so you didn't have to disconnect cables?  Or was it just to heavy to get out?

On ‎17‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 8:43 PM, thesmileyone said:

Silver car with cream leather ---eww.

I prefer this

http://www2.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201609238054089?onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&make=LEXUS&sort=distance&model=IS 250&radius=1500&transmission=Automatic&advertising-location=at_cars&postcode=ch11sg&page=6

I also prefer contrast between interior and exterior colours.

That looks clean.  Don't see many in black either, which is a shame cause I think it looks very good.

Although, the advert claims 18 inch wheels, whereas those are 17?  Amazing to see them unmarked with no corrosions though.

How does 3 hours labour come to just under £700?

The Lexus warranty is a good idea.

I got this cable and it works well for me:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-VCI-Toyota-Lexus-TIS-TechStream-OBD2-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-J2534-/281433277273?hash=item4186bb0359:g:L-gAAOSwfcVUDDNX

I don't think it is the thermostat personally.  If it was stuck closed, the engine temperature would be affected.

That, along with the fact you have just drained the system, suggest to me that it is an airlock in the matrix.

If you squeeze the radiator hoses, does the fluid level go down?

Yes, pictures please.

I always like it when people actually repair things rather than just throwing the whole lot away.  I am sure it was a good feeling when everything worked afterwards.

Hang on, is that a typo or are you saying the turbo doesn't boost until 2800rpm?  If that is not a mistake, then something is very wrong since it should start boosting at around 1600rpm and should be going well by 1800-2000rpm.

Also, did he take off the DPF to clean it?

I used to live in Kingsbury, and it sounds like you might be close, so based on my experience of the roads around there, I wouldn't bother since it will probably get scratched again soon.

Well, the test only shows that exhaust gases aren't present in the coolant.  Unfortunately, this doesn't rule out the head gasket altogether.

Foam in the header tank suggests one of two things; Either an air leak in the coolant system, or gases from the head gasket leaking into the waterways.

Although one suggestion that I have not heard of before is Radweld.  Apparently, it can cause foaming in the tank.

Of course, two of these don't explain your other symptoms, but this could be a tricky diagnosis. 

Are you sure you aren't losing any coolant?

Excellent news!  Glad it is all sorted.

Perhaps you should test drive it for a couple of years to make sure it is ok before you sell it?

Can you perhaps describe the symptoms some more?

For example, once it boosts, does it go well?  Will it rev cleanly to the redline?  Is there any smoke out the back?  Any noises/coolant problems in the engine bay?

Lastly, you say the DPF was unblocked, but you didn't say how?

Well, that wasn't so bad

Yep, we are in agreement; If you only drive urban, diesel no good for you!

Personally, I think I will go back to petrol for my next car.  I don't mind the engine in my car as is, but the whole EGR/DPF thing is a headache I can do without, and I will probably be doing a lot less mileage soon, so economy won't be much of an issue.

Funnily enough, I actually spent about 20 minutes on the M25 a couple of days ago at 2200rpm to give my DPF a good clean out.

Both getting backed up is the theory.  It might not be the case, but it is definitely the first place to start.

Did you clean it today?

If is not that, then it can be tricky.  The most obvious path is a turbo related fault, but these usual have some other signs as well, such as noise and smoke.  Might be worth a look;  Take the inlet pipe off the front of the turbo and have a look at the blades, check the shaft for play and make sure the waste gate isn't stuck.  That sort of thing.

6 hours ago, Carl911 said:

as far as the dealers are concerned ed they love warranty work as they get paid the same as if you paid out if your own pocket. 

This might not necessarily be the case.

According to a service rep I spoke to at a dealership, they only get 50% of their typical labour charge for warranty work.

Still, I wouldn't be complaining if I was 'only' charging £84 an hour.

On the dash, to the right of the steering wheel, you have a toggle switch.

Turn the ignition on, go to the option that says priming, then press the centre switch.  You should hear the fuel pump running for a while.

It seems you have been really unlucky.  Hopefully it is an easy fix this time.

Yep, I do a few motorway miles in mine and it is a great place to do it in.  It has certainly made my journeys easier.

Well, I could be wrong, but if the thermostat was stuck, the temp display would be a bit off (mine sits a bit left of centre when hot).

Oh, and one other thing; have you tried priming the fuel system?  I know it wouldn't explain the coolant issue, but perhaps you are unlucky and have two separate issues.  It might be worth a try.

Welcome Adrian.

Despite the issues, I hope you enjoy Lexus ownership.

It does sound like classic head gasket failure, bar the lack of fluid loss.

The problem with the theory of thermostat, water pump or expansion cap failure is that it doesn't account for the misfire.  I don't suppose you have any warning lights on the dash?

The easiest way to confirm - before you start buying replacement parts - is to either buy a block tester or go to a garage that has one.

As for replacement, the engine is no different from any other diesel engine, so if you are handy enough with the spanner, I don't see why you couldn't do it yourself.  Although you would have to check the head carefully for damage when you get it off.

Hello.

If it also boosts a little later than it should, then it sounds like classic EGR blockage.

They both tend to go hand in hand, so if your DPF was blocked, it is a good bet that your EGR valve is also in bad shape.

I cleaned mine a while back, and then after 5000 mainly motorway miles, it was full of soot again.

The EGR valves really do need regular cleaning to keep on top of the situation, so thankfully it is a relatively easy job to do.

Did you read the fault codes when it went into limp home mode?

Well, personally, I think it is a matter of perspective.  There is a scale to such things, and oil into rivers is much worse in my opinion.  The simple fact is that, compared to lorries, bus, trains, ships, etc.., cars put out a lot less pollutants.  I am not saying they are harmless, but there are certainly bigger fish to fry if you want to clean the air up.

Also, dumping tyres into bushes is just lazy, but there is a benefit to removing the DPF.  The most obvious one is that it won't get blocked, like so many diesel owners have experienced.  Also, the engine will run better without it.  For example, I was getting juddering a low revs and sluggish power delivery, but since I have had my DPF regen'd, the problem has gone away.  The car is more efficient too, so it burns less fuel. 

As far as MOT's are concerned, you have to remember it is a visual check only, so if you gut it and put it back on the car, there is no way for the MOT tester to know.  The emission test only covers Carbon Monoxide and Hydro Carbon's, so they don't test for Nitrogen Oxide as far as I know.

Well, since it says 220d in his profile, I am going to assume as much.

Can't really comment on the noise, but there are two types of VSC warnings; those that go into limp home and those that don't.  I have had both, and the second time it happened, switching the car off and on again actually removed the limp home without extinguishing the VSC warnings.

Anyway, limp home usually means a fault that is preventing the engine/drivetrain running properly, so it is doubtful tyre pressures would cause that.  That is unless you are running them so low that it is similar to a puncture.

My last breakdown was due to the DPF being blocked, like mentioned above, but of course it could be many things.

What mk_lon says is a good idea.  Get a OBD2 reader and read the fault code yourself.  If you post the result on here, someone will be able to tell you what the fault means.  Although, to be pedantic, depending on your frame of reference, the port could be in front of the brake pedal.

Calm down Linas, it isn't that bad.

After all, with all those VW's out there pumping out so much extra pollution, who would notice one more anyway?

You're right, I can't hear anything wrong.

Would it be easier to hear from the inside?

Welcome

All Gen2 IS's have timing chains, so no belt to worry about.

Club discount would be good.

@steveledzep Yep, exactly the same on mine.  Went in for a service a couple of month back and was told it needed a new rear caliper.  Authorised within 1 hours, part already in stock, so all taken care of the same day.  Excellent service all round.