Jules PF

Did all four calipers on mine, pig of a job. Snapped 2 pins in the slide :(.

Order parts here, pins, rubber etc http://afcparts.co.uk/home.php 

5 hours ago, jackcramerr said:

Thats easy. On Mazda ithink it took me 8 hours of non stop work to replace it. 

Had to jack up the car to get access to one of the bolts of intake manifold. Another bolt was hidden so had to use super magnets and extension bars to screw it back in... nightmare. Heard ford is the same amount of trouble. 

I dont see really how a PCV can eat up liters of oil... The one I removed after 130k miles wasnt dirty at all. pastic pcv. Rattles like a rattle snake.

I also think if its not working properly one should see rough idle or a strange one as madashatter points out.

 

Ok, didn't notice your are talking about a Mazda, not the IS250 in signature. A pcv that rattles doesn't necessarily mean its not faulty, but the lack of rattle does indicate failure. But you've changed it anyway or so no problem. Apparently they simply cause too much oil to pass into the intake manifold when faulty, hence horrific oil consumption and top end carbon problems. Oils with a low noack (evaporation loss) help, unfortunately this info is rarely on the oil spec, just email the manufacturer they have all emailed me back in a day or 2. Hope this helps.

On 3/3/2016 at 7:31 PM, jackcramerr said:

talked to.a few people. They suggested drain the oil.and use the correct spec oil. it will.free up the pcv and make it work again...

As discussed use a good top end cleaner, several times if necessary. Then oil flush, change or clean pcv (carb cleaner), drain oil, refill with Mobil 1 esp.

After replacing my PCV now covered 1,600 miles and have lost 250ml approx of oil, the dipstick has gone from full to 3/4 marker. previously I was losing a minimum of 750ml per 1,000 miles. I have no doubt the change to a low noak oil has helped. However the difference was most noticeably be seen from the exhaust,  or rather lack of plumes of smoke. I actually did this before I changed the oil and it was very clear the pcv was the main culprit. Its a cheap part, no loss in simply changing it.

Not Lexus specific, but the usual suspects would be track rods ends, anti-roll bar bushes and droplinks. Do not have a 4 wheel alignment done until you check these areas........as you will need to have one done again if any of these are later found faulty and replaced. 

With Noack rating you have to ask manufacturers.  They have the data and will take a day or so to email you back.

I used quite a few seafoam, holts but recommend liqui moly valve cleaner. Pcv should definitely rattle when shook. If not it's faulty,  however one that does rattle does not mean it's working! Hence why I would recommend simply changing it, it's cheap enough if sourced from rockauto in the states for instance. 

2 hours ago, johnatg said:

It's getting to b a major problem with petrol engines but diesels are worse. Most engines (both petrol and diesel) have EGR valves (although thankfully not IS250s). But oil vapours get into the inlet tract via the crankcase breather anyway. The culprit identified by Shell for the severity of the carbon build up is Viscosity Improver - that is not a DIY additive but is put in the oil during manufacture to provide 'wide band' viscosity - ie 10W-30, 0W-40 etc. The bigger the difference between the two numbers the more VI is required. It certainly helps to change the oil much more frequently than recommended.

The problem doesn't seem to have hit us IS250 owners in UK too much but there are a lot of reports of it in US.

The CM article referenced shows intake valves in a Mini Cooper S (petrol) engine at 77K miles - they are in a dreadful state before walnut shell cleanng.

 

I was/am having the same issue with my Is250. The problem is with the GDI engine design, petrol no longer washes over the valves, so the detergents in fuel do not clean them. Lexus have addressed the issue with a GDI and conventional port design on the 350. You are correct Terraclean or hydrocleaning will not help the carbon issue. 

I have been experiencing heavy oil loss (easily 750ml per 1,000 miles). After a lot of investigations, it was determined I had no leak, thus the oil was being burnt in the combustion process. I have always been concerned by the amount of exhaust I can see emitted, and would often compare to other cars at traffic lights, for instance. Here is how I addressed the issue, I believe I have 'fixed; it. Early days, but it looks hopeful.

1) use a good quality valve cleaner from Forte, Liqui moly or Wurth. Before changing the oil. These must not be added to fuel, that is useless on the GDI engine, instead they are to be sprayed into the air intake, so that the cleaner mixes with air in the manifold. I have also used seafoam, but to be honest, I didn't find it particularly effective. The one that seemed to make the most difference was the Liqui Moly valve cleaner. The car seemed much better afterwards, purely gut feeling, no scientific data.

2) Change the PCV valve at least every other service, so 20k miles. Lexus have no maintenance schedule for this valve. That is a major oversight. This valve works on a similar way to an egr valve, passing unburnt gasses and vapours (inc oil) back to the intake manifold to be burnt.  It is part no. 12204-31040 and is £28 in the uk. I ordered one from the states for less than half. I wasn't due to service it for 2 weeks so could wait the 8 days. I actually ordered 2, for less than the price of 1 in the UK, and I don't feel ripped off!!  The old valve, when shook, was hardly making any noise, ( it should rattle). The new one was much better, Upon fitting, the difference in the car was immediate. Barely noticeable exhaust smoke!! 

3) Use a fully synthetic oil with a low NOACK rating. This is the amount of oil that evaporates at a given temperature. This is given as a % and the variance can be be huge. I am using Mobil 1 ESP 5w 30, which is rated at <6%. Other oils, such as Comma Syner-Z 5w30 are <13%, some are higher.  Mobil actually recommend a different oil for our cars, but it has a high NOACK of <13%. Therefore these higher NOACK oils will be burnt off at a much higher rate than the Mobil 1 esp.. Lexus changed the oil spec to 5w20, but this was purely for economy reasons. This oil is much more difficult to source, so I've stuck with the 5w30.

I have only completed 500 miles thus far but have not shown a loss at all on the dipstick and the excessive exhaust smoke is a thing of the past. 

On 1/15/2016 at 9:04 AM, lapyiwin said:

I am having trouble sourcing the front and back brake caliper slider Pin/ bolt with rubber dust cover and anti rattle clips for my IS220D 2007. Eurocarpart, Ebay, Halford they all don't do it. Any advice on where I can get one will be grateful.

Front Pin slider

 

 

 

Rear Pin Slider

http://afcparts.co.uk/home.php

I got mine from them for the whole car, front and rear.

The diesel doesn't have a pcv, it has an egr valve.  The is250 has a pcv valve have just cleaned mine whilst I wait for a replacement. Lexus and Toyota charge £27 for this part in the UK. I ordered it from the states for a mere $5......shipping of £9 !!

I do 15k a year and have thus had many deisels. However with all of them, Mercedes, Bmws and Jaguars I've had problems with egrs, fuel filter, fuel ines, injectors and turbos. Now they also have the dreaded dpf to add to the mix. A few years ago I turned away from diesel and haven't looked back. Now i'm on a Lexus IS 250 sel and love the thing. Smooth quiet and cheap to maintain and service. The clickety clacker is a thing of the past!

I look at all the posts in the engine transmission section on this site, literally all of them are about the 220d! Many seem to report terrible mpg, anywhere from 25-35. I get an average of 33mpg from my 250. With these modern diesels is it really a cost saving all things considered?

Does it make the noise when you have your foot on the brake?

I had an awful front end noise and suspected anti roll bar. Then found the car was perfectly quiet when I had even very light pressure on brakes. The cause was one anti rattle clip on the front brake pad. It was slightly twisted and not applying sufficient pressure to the pad, so every time I hit a less than perfect surface it would rattle. The noise sounded like it was along the enitre front end and sounded really awful. I simply straightened and re tensioned the clip, now the car is super quiet.......and the Febi A/R bushes I bought in preparation, remain on the shelf!

The brakes on my car were similar, extremely poor wooden feeling I had just bought the car fairly cheap so set about fixing it.

The main problem is the calipers, or namely the slide pins they corrode and stick. You have 2 each side on the front and one each on the rear. On mine the lot were seized to some degree. One was so badly seized it snapped inside the carrier. I managed to drill tap and extract it...eventually!

New pins can be purchased here http://afcparts.co.uk/home.php.

Whilst I was at it I replaced all four discs, new pads, brake fluid and handbrake shoes! The braking is absolutely spot and handbake actually works!