darrude

I have driven quite a lot of hire cars with work, and personally don't see the issues with the lexus system (mine is the standard nav, with dial, zero experience the premium). Traffic updates reasonably well and directions are generally pretty good. I think the seperate / stand alone / phone systems will always be a better option, more flexible, especially as the car ages and tech moves on. I did want to get the mirror link working so I could put my phone screen on the car screen, but have never managed to get it working. It would be nice if OEMS would allow the car's screen to be just a monitor so you can plug in whatever you want to the car, bit like how you can cast a phone or laptop to the TV.

Fly by Wire Pedals generally have a hysteresis device (mechanical features to add friction and "sticktion") to give the feel or a traditional cable and make it easier to hold the pedal in a set position (imagine if you were just holding the pedal against a spring, every time you went over a bump you would end up inadvertently opening / closing the throttle). I would avoid putting any kind of lubrication in there in case it degrades the plastics. From memory I think it was the hysteresis feature that was causing the sticking pedals that resulted in the Toyota recall scandal. Mine is no different to any other car I have owned or driven (had loads of golf hire cars while working overseas, and no noticeable difference). Maybe a quick trip to a local dealer to compare.

I get this sometimes (with a sony phone, and now an LG). Every time it has been fixed by rebooting my phone.

I would never get close to that in winter, 53-54 maybe on that run. It was 29degs when passing Derby, so air con was on! I have compared real to actual (on winter tyres, if that makes a difference, it makes a greater Speedo difference to sat Nav) and mine was pretty close. Next time I fill up I'll do a check with the summers on. On Monday mornings I make the reverse run at 4am, and really not hanging about, generally get 48-52, depending if I get slowed down with traffic, if that is helpful to the OP.

Yesterday I drive from Birmingham airport back to Yorkshire. 100 miles M'way, 35 miles A/B roads. There was a large stretch of the M1 restricted to 60mph, so cruise set at 65, for a lot of journey, indicated 78mph rest of time. Without trying, I got 60mpg. So it is possible!

Thanks Guys for the responses, it is re-assuring that the belts seem ok even after the recommended surface intervals.. hopefully last until she saves up enough money (or I convince her to take a loan out).

Hi, Wondering what peoples thoughts are on not doing the 100,000mile timing belt, water pump and tensioner change? For a bit of background we bought our Rx400h about 18months ago. Well looked after mechanically but in poor condition (body work). Since then, my wife has bumped it against a metal post (needs new front bumper), and it was scraped by a van at her works carpark, needing the rear quarter and door respray (starting to rust from light scratches). Also a previous repair the the other side rear quarter (accident from the previous owners, owner) is starting to rust through the paintwork. Car is a 2005, base spec (aftermarket rear parking sensors) model and has just broken 100,000 miles. we are looking to change it to either a Rx450h (gen 1), or Mitsibishi Phev, when money allows (prob next year). I know there are no guarantees, just interested to know if people think it is brave or stupid... For note I have one service receipt in the history about 3 years ago that states 'timing belt', but it isn't clear if it was changed, or put on as a reminder. The bill is only for £180 so I suspect reminder...

sounds like a failure, pretty sure mine is just muck, not done it recently, but It has had it's fist clean in about 9 months... I think the different colours might be down to which screen you look at, the one between the dial uses a different colour scheme to the centre screen. I don't think the engineers were talking to each other when coming up with the graphics for each.......!

that's a shame, but I guess understandable. Mine is due it's first MOT in June, I'll get it booked in for May just in case.

mine does this occasionally, at the start of a journey, but then seems to fix itself. Seems worse in cold weather. I've wondered if it's when its particularly dirty. Is your's doing it Persistently?

Was the car still in warranty?

no idea, but not all menus are available when moving, might come available in park (complete guess).

Mine did that from new, at the time I didn't use the car midweek at all, and it happened pretty much every Friday, much worse when exposed to driving rain. Now i use it everyday it hasn't done it once. I asked the dealer and they said there wasn't any fault with the brakes. I assume it is the auto brake function then a bit corrosion causing the brake to stick.

I'm weighing up the pros and cons of buying a space saver spare wheel, so I'm wondering if anybody could share there experience of using the repair and go kit. Is it worth the hassle of carrying round a spare wheel in the boot? I was going to replace my tyres with contiseal, but don't think they do them in the correct size for the IS?

I'll try take some pictures, at lunch (if the rain stops!), as for the tape, I used I actually got it from the shop floor at work, but if you look on eBay for 'Anti rattle tape', or 'felt tape', there are loads of identical looking tapes for the door seal fix. For some packing out panel gaps (console and drivers side lower), I used this foam rolled up, and 2/3mm neoprene self adhesive foam pads, again from work, but similar stuff on ebay.

I'd come to that conclusion, 30,000 miles and the pads were pretty much untouched, only really using the car for Monday / Friday airport commutes, parked up the rest of the time, as soon as I changed jobs and started using the car more is when the issues started. I decided to stop jet washing the alloys as well, not sure if that would have contributed or not.

Both my rear brakes have seized, at about 2 years old, within 3 months of each other (2015 model). However it wasn't the slide pin, corrosion on the pads had seized the pad in the caliper. I ended up fixing myself as Lexus Birmingham seem to think a squealing caliper that gets red hot after a 10mile drive is "normal". Or they were too lazy to actually look like I specifically asked when it went for service. I had to take a hammer to lever bar to get the pads out!

so can you name a large heavy 2.5L petrol car that returns 50+mpg on the m'way? Surely the gain if nothing else is from allowing the engine to run at its most efficient, and make up for any shortfall's buy pushing or pulling waste energy to achieve this. I would agree referencing the RX400h, it rarely uses the batteries on M'way driving, mine is constantly switching between charge and discharge depending on road conditions. The Huge uphill stretch on the M62, J21 to J22, drops the battery charge by about 50% depending the speed you go up there.

While I love the car and now understand 'lexus', and even upgraded my wife's Rav4 to an RX, Rattles seriously let it down, and are still the main annoyance that makes me want to swap the car Thought I'd share the rattles I've fixed in the hope of helping others and maybe getting some tips for the other rattles. Biggest Annoyance by far... Door seals. Took me about 18months to diagnose this, I was convinced it was the seat belt mech that was rattling. turns out it was the door seals, originally fixed this by cleaning the door seals in 'Nextzett Gummi Pflege Flege Car Rubber Stick Door Restorer'. However I have now put some felt tape around the door frame interface and achieved a perfect fix. Console Lower side panel front. This rattle sounded like it was coming from just behind the steering wheel, but the console side, right at the front of the console under the dash. I stuck some felt in this gap and the rattle has gone. Door window switches. more of a creak than a rattle, particularly on a hot day. fixed by pushing a small slither of bluetack into the gap around the bezel. Drivers side lower, knee airbag and lower trim panel. Stuffed this entire area with foam strips, not a 100% fix yet so need another go at it, but I think the source of the issue is the lower narrow panel, so going to try and build more tension in an isolate it a bit better. or maybe the airbag fixing. only rattles when cold, but it is a persistent one until the car warms up. I have another couple of rattles on the Dashboard, but have so far been unable to diagnose where they are coming from... Please note, I'm not OCD or anything, the only car I have had in the past that has had as many rattles as this car was a Rover 25! I've not been to the dealer about any as I don't have any close by... I didn't have one rattle on my last car (mazda 3), so not sure if it is because the cabin is so much better isolated and hence they are more audible / not drowned out by road / engine noise), or just been unlucky and got a poorly built one (maybe a build issue at plant and it was stripped down and rebuilt?). hope this is useful to someone.

wheels spin up, and TC allows a reasonable amount of spin before killing the power. Could very well be down to tyre choice, I'm currently running winter tyres, which are worse and the summers are low rolling resistance yoko's. My last car was a similar nightmare until changing tyres. think the rears on the non F-sport / premium cars are 225, so reasonably wide for the weight / power. My summers only have one season left so will look at pilot sports...

I live on a very steep country lane the doesn't get treated by the council. I was feeling very smug on Thursday when I pulled past a land rover that couldn't make it up the hill, he wound his window down to get my attention, I stopped and he asked if it was rear wheel drive, then said he couldn't understand why he couldn't get any grip. I just said Landrovers are rubbish and carried on my way. Thought that would be more fun than letting him know I have winter tyres on.... The IS is pretty good though even on summers, I assume it's due to there been quite of weight on the rear axle due to the batteries.

For me: Way too many rattles, especially when particularly cold or hot. Better throttle response, so much for instant torque!! Would be nice for the CVT to properly mimic an auto box when selecting manual, think it would give a much better drive (albeit less economical). a PTC heater running from the traction battery to quickly heat the car up in cold conditions. It takes forever to warm up on a cold day. For the USB playback to actually work and not reset itself and play the same tracks over and over again.

I'm glad it isn't just me who thinks that, impossible to get the power down without spinning the wheels.

I've seen quotes like this a lot, but completely disagree. Most of my driving is M'way, and I easily return +50mpg (and that isn't at 70). No other 2.5l petrols automatics give that sort of return. The EV indicator also shows it is helping the engine on slight inclines and and receiving charge on declines...

Thanks for the info just ordered, been meaning to change mine for the last 12 months, finally remembered out of necessity....!