ChrisKaye

Merry Chrimbo all! Wishing you all health and happiness! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only worth doing (or at least paying to have it done) if it's a requirement of any existing hybrid powertrain warranty you may have left! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click Online Subscriptions and choose the option you want; it says up the top that electrical wiring diagrams are included but if in doubt, send them and email (address in FAQs section)... Can I ask what spec machine you are using as I cannot find one that works with the website and allows me to click 'submit' to login! I may have to break out a really old laptop I have to see if that works :S Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's an official Lexus accessory, you can download a guide free at www.lexus-tech.eu You can also log in and for a massive 3 euros access any Lexus tech docs for 1 hr and download wiring schematics as PDFs. BUT I've been trying to do this recently and haven't been able to get the website to work as it is really finicky and presumably wants a Windows XP machine with Internet Explorer 8....!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replacement part has arrived in good condition, I'll post some updates soon. Looks like a lot of bits will need to be unbolted to remove it (possibly the rear diff will need to be dropped a few inches). Having a devil of a time locating any owner write ups for this sort of thing especially torque settings for putting things back together -eek- I may have to subscribe to Toyota/Lexus online repair manuals for a day or two to retrieve the info I need, so will keep you posted! On a plus point, according to my 8 yr old, the car will float without any rear wheels and he reckons the job is easy enough with a couple of big screwdrivers and an electric drill, so happy days!! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My bonnet strut is very weak at the moment - any one know how much for a replacement? Ta! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If your sensible there won't be any lasting damage. Without air in the struts, when a wheel bottom outs on a pothole or bump, the top of the strut hits a heavy duty plasticy/rubbery bung designed for taking knocks. The longest journey I did was from Windsor to Dorset with mine playing up, all you can do is avoid as many bumps as you can! The worst bit with a bad strut is that it feels like the tracking is off and the car pulls to the left or right, increased tyre wear and the car feels less sure footed when braking or going around tight turns, so leave plenty of space between you and other cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found supplier on eBay; £150 plus £25 delivery. Part looks good with very light surface rust in places so should clean up nicely with little effort. Should be delivered today but no sign or word from the courier yet.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sorry but I don't know! Do you know what might have caused it to stick shut? I.e.: soft drink dribbled into the catch or a loose tissue causing it to bind? Only thing I can suggest is something smooth and flat like a butter knife to prise up right by the catch after you push down to release the lock... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Rayaans, Always a font of knowledge, I'll keep my eyes open for some FK1000P as I think this will be a useful addition to my car detailing stuff! :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi John, Wow, that's some mileage there :) Those error codes can easily be triggered if one or more air struts are leaking air. Not something you will find out using a non-Toyota/Lexus code scanner tho (Techstream). Whereabouts are you located in the country? If you could call around and find a mobile techie that can read all the codes then they can tell you which (if any) struts are not holding air; I saw on eBay a seller is currently selling new air struts for about 33% cheaper than Lexus, if that helps... I had exactly the same symptoms as you and turned out to be a moderate leak in the near side rear strut and a smaller leak on the offside front strut, I was able to change both using a socket set, vice grips and the RX jack (and £3 fuel line release tool set from eBay) on my driveway. The reason the compressor codes are thrown is if the compressor runs continually for more than 30secs without the height of the car stabilising within preset parameters - the car computer disables the compressor to protect it from over-heating and throws the codes. Erasing the codes (or disconnecting the battery for 15-30mins) is a quick way to clear the codes and enables the compressor to run again until the computer shuts it off to protect it - this is the easiest test you can perform to see if the compressor is still good. When I did as nursing mine along, I'd reset the codes, start the car and count to 15, then using the hidden button under the steering wheel, disable the air suspension for 3 seconds and then re-enable it (trying to avoid going beyond the 30 second limit) this allowed me to get some ride quality back for short trips until I got all the parts to do the strut change. Fortunately I had access to Techstream to help diagnose which struts were to blame; but once you have air back in the system you can usually tell which corners are sagging... Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the same method as glover did above but skip 4000 grit and use Meguiars ultimate compound with a microfibre cloth, then super resin polish and then a good synthetic wax that gives you the UV protection. Each head light takes about 30 mins, make sure you put a cloth over any paintwork when sanding and sand a strip at a time with 4 passes, left to right as you work down the lense, then 4 passes up and down starting from the left. When compounding, polishing or waxing, use circular motion with the microfibre. The easiest step is waxing, no real pressure or elbow grease required! I tend to do this by hand as you can get carried away with power sanders and electric polishers tend to fling stuff everywhere!

It would be worse if the old key had a tag with the vehicle reg number on it (such as mechanics tend to do when faced with many keys for the vehicles in the workshop)... If this is the case, then I think it wouldn't be unreasonable to ask them to change the locks! Might be worth speaking to your insurance company for advice, they may want to get involved to tell the garage what they should do! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or Rayaans as he is a bit of a guru!!

Yeah, this one slipped past me as it wasn't picked up as an advisory last MoT and like the rest of us, I don't often slide underneath the car unless I have to! Today's update for this issue is that quotes for a used part are coming back in, I've contacted 3 breakers via eBay and they have all replied that the cost is coming in at between £150-250, which is much more palatable! Just waiting for photos to be sent over of each part so I can get the least corroded one sent. I'd love to do a write up of this repair as when it comes to the RX there is not much info on the net regarding suspension issues. Most owners aren't petrol heads like me and a few others on the forum and have better ways to spend their time than tinkering with cars! It's nice to have info you can read up on and see parts and how they fit together - even if a mechanic or the dealer does all the work for you - this way you can visualise any problems you may have and corroborate any quotes you may get to see if you are being taken for a ride or not.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk