mafp

Did you get the code reader in the end?

Thanks for sharing!

was the issue resolved in the end?

Hi. I was jus wondering if the fault with your RX450h was fixed. and what was the fix in the end?

Quick update.....it has been a few months now, and my car is working fine. In the end by using an oscilloscope the signal from the camshaft sensor was monitored with the engine running, and with the use of the repair manual which indicates the correct sensor signal (analogue DC, that oscillates between + on approach & - on moving away from sensor, depending on distance between sensor and lobe), I managed to identify that the sensor polarity was the inverse of what should have been, this erroneous signal will shut the engine down to prevent engine damage; which is what was occurring when connecting the sensor; under normal correct operation this erroneous signal will indicate the wrong camshaft position relative to the the crankshaft, this will potentially destroy the engine (as the 1GFE is an interference engine). Once the polarity was reversed the problem was repaired. Unfortunately I now have a foreign cable running from the sensor to the ECU, as there is just not enough room between the fire wall and engine to make the a proper repair, i guess this will have to wait until I disassemble the intake manifold for access. it has been now almost 4K miles and working nicely, i get between 26-30 MPG. just recently a changed a vacuum pipe between the rocker cover and throttle intake, this has now improved low end power, will monitor MPG for the next refuels as usual. Thanks all for lending a hand.

little update. completed the work today. connected the camshaft sensor back on and tried to start the engine, no luck at all, engine would turn over very well but would not fire, prior to trying to start the engine i cleared any error by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. when the sensor was disconnected the engine fired after a bit of turning. i took the car for a quick spin and has more power than before at low revs, but when it reaches 3k 3.5k the power surges, this suggest that the cam lobe design is working at it's best at those RPM, and well clearly nothing is happening at low RPM when the OCV should be controled by the cam sensor. i will replace the sensor for a spare i have, although both the sensors i now have have the roughly the same ohm reading. the plot thickens. just when i thought all issues where getting resolved. Regarding the ABS/TRC, the flash codes do not identify any issues with anything on the system, TRC light comes 10-20 seconds after starting the engine, ABS/TRC light extinguishes themselves off after turning key to ON as described on the BOOK, this suggests that there is nothing wrong with the system.....any ideas?

thanks for the reply. an update. I managed to get flash codes from the ecu, and the result was a abs sensor dirty, checked the condition and cleaned it and was good to go. cleared tge error using procedure on book. shorting certain terminal on the odb connector and press brake pedal certain number of times. the cam sensor was a bit trickier. after much fault finding and reading it became apparent that the timing must be out, considering that the cam and cranck shaft timing should match. anyway after dissasembling the valve cover I foung the gears out by one tooth. this has no been remedied. this afternoon I should complete the job and the mil should exinguish it self and should also have lots more power at low revs. wish me luck... thanks all. it been an interesting learning curve.

Dear Members, i am after your collective and wise help, i purchased recently a W reg IS200 1GFE engine, the vehicle i bought for a reasonable price (i thought) and been fixing it since. it has had a new radiator, cat converter, manifold including precats, and injector seals so far. since having the car the the ABS and TRC light are on, my OBD does not read any error codes??? further to that if the cam sensor is disconnected the engine runs, if connected it does not start, and will cut the engine out if connected when engine running, i have checked the resistance on the sensor and is working, at least is between the resistance value on the BOOK. is there any possibility that somebody connected a piggyback or has chipped the engine, although the ecu is stock and there is nothing obvious inside the engine compartment, ECU box, passenger footwell fuse box, and behind glovebox, ia am comming to the end of my tether looking for this source of fault or lack of, not to mention the hemorrhagic pace of at which money has been spent on this vehicle. which is not that good an example anyway......please help.

whats wrong with people.........JUST MEASURED MY DIKC AND IT IS TYNIY.........

BLA-BLA-BLA-BLA//.....AS USUAL......whenthe thing rises there are thingies that lowers.............

Hi. Got a new sensor, and installed it, engine not starting?? any ideas anyone. if i disconnect the sensor the engine start, although very slugish. Please help.

thanks for the reply and links, i will be looking at the camshaft and crankshaft relative position. and you think that the engine would still start and run with the belt out of position, although not out enough to make interference between pistons/valves, but out sufficiently to spark with the valve just off their seats. just a thought. although, when i bought the vehicle the sensor was disconnected and the engine would start, after connecting the diagnostics to read the codes that had the MIL light on; i discovered the camshaft sensor was causing the error, upon investigating, i discovered that it was disconnected, after connecting the sensor back the engine has not started again.

Hi all. Yesterday i bought a IS200 W reg with 100k miles on it. the car started easily every time i went to see it three days in the evenings, although the oil control valve was broken, and if it was pluged by hand (as the connector was broken) the car will start. idling was fine at the time even with the oil control valve disconnected. throttle response was sluggish although considering the role of the oil control valve i thought nothing of it. today i decided to have a look, and started by connecting an ODBII diagnostics to it, and got three error codes, these being p0340, p0340* and p1656. p1656 corresponded to the oil control valve, this was changed, the error cleared, and verified that did not reappeared, which it not appear again, The engine failed to start after this, further to this , error code p0340 indicated a failed cam position sensor, i found this was disconnected, i reconnected the sensor thinking that all would be fine, but the engine now does not start, and all error codes are clear from the ecu and have not reappeared. I am thinking that pehaps the cam belt was changed and has jumped, or installed in the wrong position, and in order to get the engine to run the previous owner disconnected the sensor and accidentally broke the oil control valve when fault finding . the question is will the engine run if the cam sensor was disconnected? as this advances the position of the timing! (maybe) please help. tomorrow i will be taking the cam belt off, in the hope that it is in the wrong position. i will need to know how to identify the exact position for both crankshaft and camshaft positions. is the crankshaft pulley keyed? i ask because on the manual i have found (thanks for leaving links for this) it indiates to line-up the crankshaft pulley with the marking on engine. Thanks in advance.