sean_co

Are you talking about an additive to increase the octane a bit? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Womble72 In the time I have had the F I have only used petrol from stations like BP/Caltex/Shell. Those are really the only places we can get petrol where I live. I only fill up with 95 octane, we have 2 options that's 93 and 95 even at the cost. I usually only fill up at one station I'll try a different brand but same octane, perhaps the brand made a change to their fuel. When your m3 had these flat spots were they always at the same rpm? Just to follow up on my previous post. I have cleaned the Maf and changed the air filter (now oem filter), it was dirty. Still have the flat spot at altitude but again I am visiting family at the cost and there is no flat spot down here. This is with the same fuel I filled up with at altitude. Will test again in a few days to be sure. Do these cars also have a map sensor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unfortunately i have not yet had it on the dyno, the one close to me is booked up to early Jan and want to charge a silly amount for a run. I went down to the coast for a funeral last weekend and down there it performed 100%. We live 1700M above sea level, strange that it ran 100% down there though. we are going down again in the next week so ill have to test some more :) while we wait for the dyno early jan i will check the fuel filter (in tank i believe), air filter and perhaps clean the MAF (which is new)

Thanks Stuno1 for the quick reply. i do agree that running standard headers with gutted primaries is not optimal by any means although its been running fine up till a month or two ago. i can't really put my finger on the beginning of this issue since i usually just cruise around. i will defiantly take up your suggestion and put it on the dyno to check that curve out. luckily I'm on leave today and there is one down the road from where i stay

Good evening all, hopefully someone here will be able to assist me in tracking down an issue. this recently started and is not 100% constant. under WOT through the gears there is a flat spot in power deliver from about 4600 rpm to about 4800 rpm, this becomes more noticeable in the higher gears but always between that rpm range. up to that rpm it pulls strong and the same beyond that rpm i have taken the car to Lexus to have it checked they told me they had it on the scanner on a test run and found all o2 readings were showing lean during that rpm range. they then tell me they can not trouble shoot further because of my decat and PPE engineering device. i dont agree with them that those are causing the lean condition since it only recently started doing this. unfortunately our dealerships here love to blame the decat for anything they cant find. i replaced the MAF and it feels better, not always holding back the power now but it does seem to happen after driving for some time. the one day this happened i also noticed a slightly longer than normal crank to start time, by longer im talking a sec or two more, nothing major but not usual. there are also no error codes as per Lexus and also no CEL. no cylinder miss fires in live or history. could this be a sign of a fuel tank pump going bad? the vehicle has the below changes 1) primary cats hallowed out (previous owner) 2) removed secondary cats (previous owner) 3) ppe sim (installed myself to fix the CEL from above 2 mods) 4) airfilter (installed because the garage said it was not done in the Lexus 90k service) - recently checked it and it is unfortunately aftermarket filter regards,

Thanks Stu if there is any good info i get i will post it here for the UK guys

have not checked on usa forums at this point. not an easy sound to pinpoint, is seems to be in the region of the high pressure pump will register on their site and see what they say about this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tnibd6Av59Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11p5ikcktjI i found these 2 videos on youtube. seems to exactly the same sound happening there.

unfortunately i dont have warranty left on this car. im sure in time i will either find the issue or find someone that can find it. i have just come back from an exhaust place, they listened and blipped the throttle a bit while listening and they saying its not coming from an exhaust leak they also saying it does not sound like tappets / lifters. i can believe that story from the lotus forum. you probably find the place quoting 10k knew all along it was just the filter and was going to pocket the rest of the cash.

so the dealership has had the car for 2 days now. they say they 99% sure is a leaking exhaust manifold gasket or cracked manifold causing that sound. only happens when its at operating temperature. in the same breath they say they saw carbon buildup in the cylinders (using a scope) and they need to strip the engine to find out what that is. 27 hours of labor quoted just for that. then a whole new exhaust system is needed also (because the back CAT were removed) to fix the sound im complaining about. i am completely loosing faith in Lexus. they complained about a "chip in the engine" also, that's the device from PPE keeping my CEL off. R21,000 to strip and check the engine and another R35,000 for the exhaust system. i have paid less for running vehicles before. it seems all these guys want to do is drop and strip the engine or replace things that are not even relevant. i would not be surprised if they quote an ECU just for good measure. im going to pick up my car from the dealership and take it to an exhaust place.

im saving this for the next plug service. looks easy enough to do. why are the dealerships saying they have to remove the intake for this job then? suppose just to make more money from us again

yes i have heard this. just recently i did this service. its such a silly design that the intake needs to come off to change the plugs. luckily the plug service is few and far between.

Good evening, i have a question about the ticking sound from the HP fuel pump. if you have good speakers / headphones you can hear the sound on this video link below. you can hear the so called normal sound on the left of the engine but the recording from the right side and under the car you can hear a different clicking sound. a more pronounced one. seems to go away when you bring the revs up to about 1500 ish and it cant be the timing chain or tentioner because its heard near the back or the engine, close to the firewall. https://youtu.be/DcQJbMCXK5A the dealership just says its the fuel pump but i dont think it is, does not sound like the usual ticking that the is250 has. does this sound normal?

nice quick reply :) well the camera was working but when i turned the steering wheel there were no guidance lines as normal. once i did the full left and right locks they came back as usual. very strange. so far things are ok again after the second reset, if it comes back tomorrow i will check the O2 cables. that should be ok though cause my scanner shows the O2 sensor passed and the CATs. haha, they passing now but dont even exist, O2 conditioner for the win :) been reading about zero point calibration, its resetting the steering wheel angle so the traction control knows whats happening. found it here http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/83148-gs300-2002-vsc-vsc-lights-on/ post number #3. would these pins be the same on the IS-F? perhaps after power loss the angles are set? i dont know there is so much electronic stuff going on in these cars

the O2 conditioner is working wonders. no more Cat error codes. infact no more issues / codes at all until today, i think i caused it though. i had the conditioner mounted outside of the ECU box, didnt look like it was going to fit properly. noticed it was getting fairly hot. no real airflow where i had it mounted. so today i moved it into the ECU box. tight fit but you can get it in there and its now running cooler then before. looks like there is an air vent into the ECU box. during the conditioner relocate i had the negative battery terminal off, just incase. was probably off for about 20 min. i noticed the first start after that the engine ran for about 3 sec and stopped, restarted and all was fine again except i got the VCS light after a few km. also noticed the reverse camera was saying initialising. went home and removed the negative terminal again for 5 - 10 min. on first start again it ran for about 3 sec and stopped, restarted and all was fine. camera did the same again so took a chance and turned the wheels full lock left and full lock right. as i did that the camera came right. am i starting the engine too soon after reconnecting the battery? seems like im starting it while its calibrating something or doing initial checks. no VCS light after this round, hopefully it wont come back. seems to be very fussy when batteries are disconnected. did a similar thing when i put a new battery in the car.