G10RRE

Have you had the diff oil changed recently. 2008/2009 Require LT type oil 2010 + Require LX type oil (for Torsen diff) If the wrong oil is in, it can create that stick/slip sensation you are saying. Worth checking!

Have done, not the best look as I'm no expert haha, but it'll do for now 🙂 Thanks for everyone's thoughts and help.

Thanks for the info. Old one got snapped at the narrowest part, accidental. I’ll look into that Amayama option, emailed a few breakers also asking, but yeah, not hopeful.

Hello folks, I was wondering if anyone has the drivers side engine bay plastic cover for sale, or where I can get one readily? It’s for an IS F. Part no: 53795-53051 Below is a pic of it in a parts diagram circled in Yellow. Thanks, John

Don’t see a huge difference. Drivers side has the new strut, passenger side stock strut. Maybe a tad more gap, but pretty sure the seals are still touching the boot lid ... My car is covered in snow, and lots will melt soon on the boot lid, so will see if anything gets in! Hope not.

I found having both replaced it was a fair push to close the boot, with 1. Changed it felt ok. now... how do we get it to auto close, some sort of pulley on a motor connected to a switch attached to the boot lid somehow ... need to think about that one. And then never do it haha

Hey folks, lockdown weekends are a tad boring, so decided to try a wee mod to allow my boot lid to open automatically. Works a treat. Changed ONE of the stock boot lid struts with the below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-TAILGATE-BOOT-GAS-SPRING-STRUT-FOR-BMW-3-SERIES-E46-TOURING-99-05-51248232873-/183830220075?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Tried it with both replaced, but makes the boot pretty hard to close, with just one replaced, the opening is smooth and closing is a doddle. Not sure if this is a known mod but it’s a nice addition, no adverse effects that I have noticed! Video for demo. IMG_1594.MOV

Thanks for adding this post link, that’s why I highlighted to the original poster that the estimate had an odd / old fluid type listed, and not the WS fluid that is and seems to be the best/only fluid to use.

Hey, yeah it is ATF fluid, but it’s not the same specification as the WS fluid. According to the manual it says only to use WS fluid otherwise you’ll experience bad / rough shifting. Just curious as why the estimate is mentioning the wrong fluid? Unless Dexton III is the same spec as WS or equivalent spec to WS , which I don’t believe it is, then I’m worried that they’re recommending the wrong fluid, and will experience shifting issues and they might then flog a new gearbox, when the real issue is the wrong fluid. Mentioning it because I has my diff fluid replaced a while back to my 2011 with LSD, and they added the LT fluid instead of the LX fluid, the LT fluid caused a rough/binding feeling on tight turns, as my car is a 2011 with Torsen LSD it called for the LX oil also stated In the manual, 2009 and below calls for the LT fluid as there is no Torsen LSD. I believe the LX fluid has some additional additives etc to stop the rough/binding feeling on tight turns. Just checking the dealer isn’t putting the wrong fluid added to the gearbox, as it can happen. Hopefully all is well though!

I thought the IS F gearbox calls for WS ATF fluid, strange to see the part no on the estimate as Dexton III , maybe I’m missing something? I recently had my Rad replaced, Due to a small leak at the bottom, phew!

Quick update on my situation, dealership was amazing, saw my photo of soot round cylinder 8 flange which gave some indication of a potential crack, however, needed to strip it down to confirm (at my cost of no crack found) l. I have an extended warranty so if it was indeed cracked all costs would be covered. Upon inspection it was confirmed it was cracked, and proceeded to get warranty involved. my service advisor was great, they initially declined it due to light corrosion in the joint where it connects to Mid pipe, But that wasn’t where the fault was, so they accepted the crack as the fault (which it was) and Honoured replacement. managed to get both manifolds Replaced as the Dealership Argued that it one side Has cracked the other may well crack soon, and whilst it’s stripped, would be daft not to do it, so that was accepted. Few days later, all replaced, and sounding great again on cold starts. Ticking gone! Can’t thank Shaun at Lexus Edinburgh enough for his negotiations with warranty company. quick video attached with before and after. So glad I took the warranty @ 2 years for 1, certainly saved me £3700! Phew 😅 Video below ... Ignore my commentary haha IMG_0922.MOV

That’s the one, they had my mats on eBay

Been looking for these for a while, all LHD on eBay etc no good for U.K. cars, found a last set from a dealer In Australia selling on eBay! Result 👍🏻 Must be mad, but worth the wait. Need to get the hoover out and get em in whilst the weathers ok. If anyone knows where to purchase more, it’s always good to have a fresh set, they’re so hard to come by though.

Yeah, once it’s warm it disappears mostly, however still faintly heard when driving under load. I have managed to snap a pic of the RH manifold and can see black soot round the flange area where it cracks off inside. At least that’s what it looks like to me, will need to get the technicians to have another look next time I’m booked in. what dealership are you at?

Great news, what dealership was this done at out of interest?