runsgrateasanut

Its not that I cant afford the OEM its that I resent paying an amount that could buy me four new premium grade Tyres for a part which others can manufacture for one tenth of the price. OK Quality wise there will be a difference but this is an extortionate amount to have to pay for this part. The existing UCA's were on advisories and my mechanic said they both needed changing. Pointing out that the part under load would be the only way to test it for wear. I want to be safe, but not at any price. I've ordered the below from the States as a pair, because they have a short delivery date. They were reluctant to send them until I confirmed the OEM number which I got from a very useful link someone put on a thread, to a website called Toyo..... ? I only need the one Arm but unless I order from a UK seller who lists his items under Private Seller (which I always suspect is not a good place to go!) then I'll have spare. May sell if anyone interested. I've used Rock for Merc parts but for my year Lexus its a bit vague as to the list of UCA parts that will fit. Also their price is higher. I understand that many names quoted as brands on the Box, may also be Taiwan products inside although understood to be of high quality. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290615339217

Good Question Malc. They were advisories and having taken off the rubber (seemingly in tact) covering the ball joint on the one removed (which may be original but can't see any ID for rust) though loose, I can't find any actual play up and down. Some rust in the grease. Only used my fingers to try to pull/push in both directions. Daresay it may have lasted another 50k miles but just don't want a nightmare MOT situation like I had first time with this car. Trying to resolve all issues well in advance

I just can't run to £450 for a single front upper control arm. I purchased two from America both supposedly American brand. Both turned out to be Branded box but made in Taiwan with no corresponding ID. Guarantee worthless I imagine. OK One fitted and the other I was totally suspicious of as it didn't look similar, being an H bar, but thought we'd check. Turns out not to fit and on further examination the part is for a SC430 and wrongly quoted as for an LS400 89-94. so, last night Mechanic had to put back the original part and was less than happy to do so. Trying to get a replacement as a matter of urgency for France trip shortly. None on ebay and Amanana will take too long. So, had to buy from States again (a pair) and delivery expected by 13th if they can confirm part numbers match. Got refund of part cost for wrong arm but lost out shipping and VAT. Can sell on the wrong part and perhaps cut my loss but not labour charge. Just hoping parts arrive in time and that I won't have a problem to end up driving like this guy

I've temporarily postponed installing an LPG system. I had a Mercedes which had a tank probably fourteen years old. I updated the valve to the tank after twelve years and it looked fine inside and outside. I have a four hole Stako tank kitted out and awaiting installation. Its never been used, but the manufacture date on the card is 2005. There's nothing on the tank itself date wise, but am I to be ruled out using it? It may be that later cars than mine had less hard valves. The Merc 1996 model, owner told me he had the valves changed at 180k - just in case, so resarch on softer valves if you can find any, may be worth doing.

Wonderful looking cars Pepe. Tell me how much time do you spend keeping the engine bay looking so pristine? and whats the secret?

Just my luck that this one is the wrong side. Probably more gold than Beige I console myself. There is a grey LS being broken but looks like someone has put a couple of small dents on the wing top taking out the engine? Seems more choice for later cars than 1993. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-LS400-Passenger-Wing-From-1994-/321659135216?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ae460e4f0

I thought I'd found a matching replacement for £65 quoted from someone supposedly breaking, but he seems to have disposed of the car in its entirety. Why not try a "1st Choice spares" enquiry for a s/h one with no rust and matching colour - you might be lucky? Any rust repair would have to be good to survive my sea front position so I'm not going to bother to try to do the job myself. Only one wing fortunately.

Don't know if these would fit? for £215 seem good value http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/112451523/16-alloy-wheels-with-michelin-auris-tyres.html

Purchased four of the first style with deeper longer indents and 16 inch size Lexus wheels. Not sure which model they came from - manufacturer Borbet. Second wheel very Mercedes AMG style , which I also like. Is the first style 17 inch?

Only time gets rid of sciatica or alleviates some of the pain and discomfort. I was warned by a Consultant against using an Osteopath or Chiropractor after X Rays and an MRI scan, which I had following a second severe attack after a seven year pause. It depends on age and spine condition. If spine condition is unknown it could be detrimental. Having a long back I could see how the spinal cord was threaded through a very small and challenging circuit along the vertebrae at the lumber region where spinal disk compression takes place. I'd tried Osteopathy the first time and it was torture even if my mind was not on it as I laid across her legs having noticed her blue thong showing! I tried Chinese Acupuncture for twelve sessions but not sure it made any differerence. I couldn't raise my left leg if I lay on the bed. Not even an inch. Just didn't respond but it would lock out so walked with a stick. Only time healed the problem to an extent - min eighteen months. Didn't take any drugs or rub on Ibroprofin, after reading possible side effects, and didn't change the mattress which is Memory foam. This is reminding me to fix my twisted front Lexus seat. I have taken the back panel off. I work at a snails pace these days. I did buy a second hand Bactrac which is an inversion table. Not suited if you have high blood pressure, glaucoma, etc. If I feel that lifting that engine was perhaps not a wise thing to do, I go on the table for a minute or place hands on the back of two chairs and try to raise my weight on my shoulders. I've never had actual back pain even though thats where the problem lies. Fortunate that it is the Sciatic nerve in my left leg each time, and so could still drive an Automatic. I have full use of the leg now, but the upper muscle only about ninety per cent returned after the wasting period. Hope you recover soon - its a bummer!

Its a matter of personal taste but colour is a high consideration for me. I've bought clear indictors for the mk 2 but do I buy chromed bulbs or have the fried egg look. Such a difficult choice to make, Hahaha. I do prefer the styimg of the mk 2 to the later models as I think the front wings especially of later models look too slab like, without the crease that runs front to back. I know Mercedes did the same thing (how they copy one another in styling). but for me I also prefer the front bumper being slightly yank in its styling. Don't know the Mk1 well enough to comment, but still givng my 3 penneth worth. Certainly right about older vehicles likely to need more expense and not quite as powerful.

Braving the bitterly cold wind I have discovered the cause. Alignment is the reason. Found that the Radiator has not been put back correctly as the brackets which fit over the top are slightly twisted. Loosened them off, but the rubber which is supposed to align with the plastic moulding on the top of the radiator - doesn't now as its the only way I can move the air filter centre to the left. The Rad is still clamped, but not as it should be. The far right panel cover is now askew to the centre part owing to the battery not being correctly positioned. There arn't two lug holes but just one screw hole far end. slightly askew. Boy when you buy a car with a few issues don't you know you've got em! Will speak to my mechanic who changed the Timing belt as perhaps he had to remove the rad, not that it wasn't like this when I first bought the car because it was. Doh! Bit Worrying this. Lovely car otherwise.

The centre part Left Hand Side aligns exactly with the Radiator bolt (as on the video) and if moved to the left, the lug holes would no longer align for the over part. Also the right hand side of the centre section aligns with the plastic part that covers, and also screws down into the allotted hole. I'll have to take off the Dome and see if somehow the connector has been forced into it, although I'm sure I would have noticed it when I cleaned it before putting in the new filter. Also it looks like it meets a buffer which you'd expect it to. Bit of a brain teaser this one.

Hi Malc and Mark - - the two lugs holes are for a cover which fits over the parts (you can just see part of it sitting on the centre panel) It slots into the dome one side and then plops down into the two holes. It is the correct size to fit exactly where it should be. The strip of foam was only as wide as the base of the part i.e. 2cm

Don't think this will display - its years since I used photobucket. I'll post and see.

Keep us in the picture on your ultimate purchase. See the car is black and not green - it was the window tint that must have stuc in my mind good luck

Just changed my Air filter but a bit puzzled by the fact that the extension part from the circular filter casing does not adequately meet the inlet large plastic section which runs across the radiator. Trying to figure if there is a part missing or someone has put a wrong part on the car. It should slide into the larger part with a piece of foam on the underside but it barely meets the centre section. Half an inch more would do it but not possible to insert. OK so, I've had to tape the two together to stop air being sucked from the engine direction into the filter. Is this a common mis-match of parts or have mine shrunk?

Check out the thread "was 93 a cusp year" and you'll find a link to one on Preloved. The gentleman gave me a considerable insight into the history of his ownership which I refer to on another listing " anybody selling" I think the car is green and it may well be worth a look.

I can't imagine my car has been off-roading in its life so 200k is perhaps a bit optimistic as I only have 113k on the clock. I bought Raybestos listed as Professional Grade A but as I say the box is Raybestos but the part looks suspect, especially as it wasn't heat sealed into the box but clear bagged without ID other than numbers. This said, those cheap UCR's advertised on ebay, one says "not a cheap Chinese copy" so I emailed the seller asking where they are made - he said phone me! didn't want to put anything in writing presumeably, but possibly made in Taiwan. so I took a chance on this and Raybestos say they will get back to me as regards my question where their product is made. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suspension-Control-Arm-Professional-Grade-Front-Left-Upper-fits-90-00-LS400-/371037566399?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item56638ff5bf

It does beg the question why does OEM lasts 200k and chinese only a year? They didn't use polyurethene back in 93 as far as I'm aware. How different can rubber be? Perhaps I'll put up a thread for people to give their experience - what bought, approx cost, how many miles to date, what experience. I'm all for paying a fair price but OEM is astronomic.

My car is a little earlier but I'm faced with a lot of expense to replace parts which quite naturally are nearing the end of their life after 21 years and come up as advisories. Quote for a rear upper control arm from Lexus £353.95 or £375 with new bolts etc. I've just sourced rear uppers and front uppers and lowers and its been a nightmare trying to find better deals for quality parts. Got front lowers from Australia japanese brand about £70 each. Just had delivered a Raybestos fr. UCA which cost £114 only to find that the Box is Raybestos but the bagged part inside just says "Made in Taiwan". Not sure if I've been duped, or more likely most American companies are outsourcing these days much to disgust of the Yanks. C'est la vie. Rears springs bought Ok £80 fair price, but why these Control arms can't have replaceable bushes beats me. Awaiting Rear UCA's from Amayana - cost for two £350. So, as the seller told me, they are a rich mans car. This said, sure I'm going to have a car that I can trust for many years assuming him above gives me that time.

Just a thought, Can you actually engage the gears without the foot on the brake? I have always done this and so never cheeked but thought it was a safety thing on most auto's? Just taken out the small amount of t/fluid I added and although the colour might loook nice and cherry red on the stick it sure isn't that colour once you get some out into a jar. Much darker. Hopefully not disturbed any silt if there is an that gathers around the filter. I'll get my mechnic to check it when he gets the chance - got so many things to do, wishbones front and back, rear springs, exhaust leak. Tutch I'm going to be borassic lint as they say down south, at this rate.

Thats good to know Norm. Used to have similar in the S Class. Just been wondering if level may drop over the years (21) with some form of evaporation, that is assuming its not been checked or changed in its history, which I can't say. There's no leak which is the most important consoideration.

Thanks Malc - you are probably right. Steve I didn't leave it running for 20 mins but after a ten mile drive I leftit to settle for 20 mins. Though I read that this was the procedure. Question is, with a car done over 115k miles, would you find when you start the car from cold and select reverse that there is likely to be a bit of a clunk (or jolt should I say) as it engages? Is this normal or should it be as smooth as silk.? (I should add Malc that you would need take the car for a long drive beofre going to the Garage as they can't check it hot just by letting it stand and idle on the forwcourt., so means they have to tkae it for a drive. Would they want to bother or just check it cold)

Reviving a somewhat old thread. I always find checking Trannie level is a nightmare. I had the car up to temp this morning and then left it a short while no more than twenty minutes. Started and put through the gears and back to park. Tried this several times checking the fluid level and its never consistent. It was the same for me with the Mercedes. You see fluid on both cold and hot but nothing in between and so on. I don't know that I'm loosing any, but the car is getting a bit clunky going into reverse and certainly at start up. Colour looks good.but I have added a cupful hoping to improve the smoothness. Drives smoothly enough. Confess that after the Transmission/radiator fail on the Merc I was putting fluid in and taking it out again by tube, quite a few times. Car is still on the road with someone else (no advisories last MOT Ouch!) but I wish I could feel certain I haven't now overfilled. Two options I suppose. Either let a mechanic check and hope he knows what he's doing or have a complete drain and refill. Not something I'd like to attempt with fluid in the Torque Converter as well as the sump to contend with.