runsgrateasanut

May have seen it for sale. I can think of many reasons why the LS may not be the hottest purchase on the market. Key, is cost of parts and labour. Yours, if i am correct is at that time of Replacament Cam belt etc., - looking at a tidy cost here (can be more than the price you'll get for the car). If the starter motor is starting to sound a bit suspect - again a tidy cost for a very difficult time consuming job to replace probably a token priced pair of brushes.- labour costs at stealership? Sit down if you'r asking, i imagine. Bit of oil leaking from the power steering perhaps? - could be an Alternator needed if allowed to continue or not spotted. Had similar problem on my MR2 where oil leaked onto the Alternator. Getting that out was no doddle and not cheap. Those Upper Control Arms front and back getting a bit tired? - priced to make your eyes smart. (Rear £423 each) Transmission? possible time when the Radiator just happens to decide that that inner cooling pipe has lived long enough. Disaster on the cards. Exhaust perhaps leaking just a bit? Won't be a cheap fix. Spongy almost non existant brakes - OK service items but never been in a car with such inefficent brakes before.- all discs and pads since changed - a few hundred smackeroons. Great brakes now. Excellent. Some of these problems I'm wading through at the moment, and yet still like the Car, (it has character IMO) if I hadn't spotted a lovely LS430 in our High Street one day, I might never have looked at Lexus. Then made an ebay impulse purchase , not something I normally do with Cars. The S Class I had for six years and despite being 18 years didn't spend a fraction of what this LS400 has cost me to date. But, there's no going back. Was looking at Volvo Coupes at the time, and can't recall why I didn't go that route? Needed more space I suppose. Good luck with your car sale.

Since moving from the Merc W140 S class LWB I have to say I don't feel the LS400 is at all BIG. I got a King size bed frame in the Merc.Wouldn't happen in the Lexus. First stop by UK Customs on third trip to le Continent - had to open the bonnet and watch them inspect all around the underside of the car. Didn't bother with the boot, or inside the car! Oh well guessing more inspections will happen these days. Now where can I stash that er........

Another member has explained where it is, but personally not being a contortionist (have had severe sciatica in the past) and my attempt to even see the fuse box I found almost impossible, let alone trying to get the cap off,. I plumped for pulling out the cigar lighter and found the fusible link was the cause. See threads for tips. Not too hard on the 93 model. ps to another - the lighter is a cigar lighter because it's not just three eighths of an inch diameter required for cigarettes. Never known them as ciggy lighters in my time, but maybe others have?

Lets hope it was not the cabin temperature sensor fan you could hear in that quiet environment. In my old S Class it was up in the interior light module and you could hear it sometimes. Perhaps Lexus doens#t have this or is it near the Steering wheel on the dash?

Always take originals and a copy set of both Car Insurance and MOT just in case taken by Gendarmss/Polizi whoever. Have a great trip!

Just covered 600 miles back from France. Lovely drive, especially as seat fixed. Easter Sunday great day to travel in France - no lorries and barely any traffic. Mind you, had to test the brakes forty miles from Calaisat 11pm as could see what could have been roadworks up ahead and for some reason a guy on opposite of motorway with hazzardss going, only to find storming up to the last car in a small queue WITHOUT its hazzards on, and a people carrier upside down in the fast lane and a dead Deer by the side of the road. Stopped having had to cross onto fast lane to avoid guys rear. Person in the road with no high viz, no triangles, OK it must have just happened but those things we carry just don't come into our thoughts when the situation arises. Guy beckoned me to detour through "Allee" and not stop, so as Ferry to catch, did so. Hope people OK but didn't get a chance to look. Driving in italy? Its a brave man to take that on, from what I've heard. Especially if you are going near the Lakes. Don't think I'm competent enough to come out unscathed and only been driving for fifty years. Rather use a Hire Car with added insurance. Those italians don't take prisoners on the bends.

There's a visual on this if your lighter has burnt out the secondary fusible link. They don't like Air pumps. I personally always take a 12v motorcycle battery with me if I'm going on a long trip just in case I need to use the tyre pump. I have dispensed with the plug and added two croc clips. It stores nicely in a small tray with door next to the CD Player. Not sure why that little cubby hole exists, but it suits - albeit that it needs a better lock if you've nothing against it in the boot. This thread may help? http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/42712-cigar-lighter-problem/

You don't need to be so fussy - here's how to do it Sorry deleted link as you already put it up - and the battery was still connected as the door lights show!

Here's what the seller tells me, and as Raybestos and Delphi are both basket cases (insolvency)it may be any part you buy from America will come from anywhere, except Japan! I have taken off the gaitors to the two parts (which could be original to the car?) ill I'll keep them in case the new ones rot and maybe then remove and replace. oOo The part is made in China. Not even Lexus parts are made in the US, everything is made in china , taiwan, singapore, thailand, the list goes on. We guarantee our parts are the exact same fit and function as original and we inspect all parts at our US facility to ensure quality. I have sold over 100 pairs of the parts you purchased in the last year and I have never had a defect on the brand we sent you. We do have a 60 day return policy, so if you would like to return the part you can, but you would be subject to a 15% restocking fee and we would deduct our original shipping cost from the refund. Please let me know if you would like to return the parts and I can assist you, but I can assure you it is a quality part. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to contact me. Thank you for your purchase and have a great day! oOo Does beg the question if OEM has lasted over twenty years and 113k miles how come these "OEM quality or even better" are only guaranteed for twelve months! I think we know.

That was a great labour price. My mechanic today fitting the n/s upper control arm just purchased so I'll have one Chinese and one Taiwanese. Be interesting to see how they last. Someone reported that the rubber on these falls apart even if stored in the garage. Going to wrap both ball joints rubbers in clingfilm to see if they last a bit longer as a torn/perished gaitor is an MOT fail and it will prevent ingress of dirt into the balljoint. (I know it sounds bizarre heath robinson - and on a Lexus I hear you say - but worth a try to get the best out of the parts.

He must be unique. I can't imagine anyone buying a car from new, having all that historic pride and dedication hot wired into the brain, and then letting it rot away slowly in a corner. Unless its a deceased owner of course!

I've mentioned elsewhere that I've been sourcing a lot of parts for the car (its a 1993) as I want the car to be without fault for the next MOT. Bought two Japanese made Lower arm assembly's on ebay Australia and so paid a higher price and with VAT £70 a piece. Bought two Upper Arm Wishbones from different suppliers in USA on ebay and both despite being given names Raybestos and McQuay Norris, turned out to be made in Taiwan. One cost £88.39 plus tax and the other £104.00 plus tax. The Ray fitted to the car, but the Mcquay turned out to be wrongly advertised for a LS400 but I was credited wirth the amount paid, kept the item to sell against VAT charge. I still needed one Upper Control Arm and bought a "set" from another US supplier and having arrived this morning I must say that these parts look more like OEM. More sturdy and have barcode and part refs on the bag. Also numbers on the Arm but not "made in Taiwan". These cost me £184.40 sent by prompt UPS with £44.77 VAT. I'm happy that they look the part. I bought a pair of rear UCR's from Amayana which cost me £336.29 plus VAT. Quite happy with that against Lexus Direct £453 EACH. Also bought Rear coil springs £80 KYB off ebay. Bit of an investment this, but as I do like the quietness and power of the Car I plan to keep it for five years all things being equal. Don't ask me what labout costs have been, bearing in mind I have already paid to have the Cam belt changed (oem parts £500+) , Oh and having bought some Borbet five spoke wheels I've yet to buy tyres. A real spending spree. My S Class I was told by the buyer who stays in touch, pased the MOT with no advisories, and I didn't spend a fraction of this outlay on that car in six years. If anyone is interested this is the USA parts seller I used to by the pair of UCA's -(parts are of course untested but they wouldn't sell them to me until I confirmed the parts number for the car) buyautoparts.com doh! UPDATE - Just noticed that these new Arms have "made in China" in small writing on the label. DIDN'T SPOT IT - VERY SORRY

would that rear door be an MOT fail item. No knowing when it failed of course. Check its MOT history on DVLA, if it failed at one MOT for door problem and then was taken elsewhere and passed,(through poor diligance) it may give you some rights?

I thought the 5 year old ebay account was a little strange. From the pictures of this "Original" Lexus, apart from the "non original wheels" looks OK but then pictures can hide a multitude of problems. I prefer private sellers but only those who can put more than a dozen words together in the description. Mike. It may be a private seller,(or may not) but what I am referring to is the fact it is a "private listing". This means that any bids or offers made have no seeable identification and when sold any feedback will not be attributed to a named item. I ask myself why make it private? Unless you intend to bounce offers off the wall just to make people think that there is a lot of interest and they need to bid high to possibly get the item. Or, I suppose if you are unsure the buyer will be entirely happy and don't want to identify what you tried to sell and may need to relist. Its perfectly in order to sell in this manner,

Not suggesting that this perhaps should be in a different thread, but personally I'm not keen on "Private listings" and the vendor seems to have had an ebay account since 2010 but this is his/her first sale. Why open an account five years ago and not use it? I confess to having more than one account and over 1100 positive feedbacks - mind you I'm not selling cars, well, only my last Mercedes after six years ownership. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-ls400-auto-LPG-gold-/331500869981?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2efdd95d

fiddly those small ones and need the backing rubber from originals but job done

Lovely Car and superb colour. I'd be inclined to dip into my pocket again and have the Radiator replaced as a priority expense if this model has a combined cooling Rad.

So PM, footballers who do a despicable deed should not be allowed to be in the public eye regaining their status and (possibly) becoming a role model to the public, but presenters of TV car shows (who I bet a pound to a penny was a Bully at School) can go around biffing people because your Kids like him. Thats OK behaviour is it?

abandoned task - if temporarily - why do they make a part to the wrong spec? Its always the same with this aftermarket stuff, never quite right. Perhaps the original manufacturers have a patent on the spec. As need replacing front drivers side wing just can't be bothered to dremel the hole. too damn cold and windy anyway. Glad I didn't bother to get the other side out.

Side Repeaters. Sat around for nearly eight months so I started the job. Credit Card against the headlight side and then screw driver into rubber and out it pops no need to get behind wheel arch. Side repeater bulb holder has four holes and only three tangs (had forgotten this thread - anno domini) so thought I'd be able to get away with just filing/extending certain slots. OK can fit bulb holder but it wont turn and lock, so I've taped it on to the unit as it doesn't get any wind or crud on it hidden under the mud guard. Then I find (having gone out in the dark) the damn thing could be marginally wider than the original (even after removing tape and only taping lengthways, and also see that there are "corners" on the unit and strengthening walls which would make the hole need be much larger. Decided to file off part of the corner posts and the strengthening walls down near rubber. Nothing to watch on TV so did this and will see if it fits tomorrow. . If not won't bother with them.

Nice to finally get this job and the Car seat fixed. Whilst its fresh in my mind, I will mention that tugging it just didn't free it, so I ended up using two of my numerous out of date plastic flexible friends to just create a gap between it and the Radio. Leaving about an inch from each side into which I put a screwdriver head and carefully levered and out it came, much to my relief. Repaired by removing (asbestos?) washer, put back together and checked continuity to see the centre was not touching the sides anywhere, and as they say jobs a good un. Did need to lever upward the inner positive grip part each side, as lighter was not clcking into lock position. Hey presto and the lighter jumped right out of the tray and onto the wood veneer. No damage, and won't be lighting anything but using for double USB. Mind you I could do with a nice Joya de Nicaragua Cigar right now to calm my nerves!

Thanks Rupert, I just can't be tugging hard enough.Not eating sufficient Spinach these days! Recall in my Merc that you got to two screws after removing the drawer, which was removed like the powder dispenser on a washing machine. This I guess is held by spring clips similar to the Air vent, which was also a good tug to get it to come free. Tomorrow is another day.

Can somebody help as regards a Mk11 removal of ash tray. I've taken away the shifter wood panel but I don't think that the ash tray "drawer" as such can be removed to expose any screws? Tried pulling whole unit holding base area and nothing happens. also, read something about putting key into "ACC" which I scratch my head over as I don't want live to the cigar lighter whilst trying to extract the whole unit. Can't get a credit card between the top of the unit and radio so stumped for the moment. Anyone taken out a Mk11 can advise? Seemed like a good day to do this job having replaced the Hazard Warning bulb! Thanks Stuart

Just a clarification on this thread, having just removed the tube by only releasing the seat back four bolts with seat in situ, a piece of 15mm copper pipe won't thread onto this tube. 16mm might, but I'm not in france where it is a common measurement. Will need to splice the 15mm to wrap it round. Still a quick fix without removal of seat. Must press on. RETRACT MY COMMENT - 15mm does fit PERFECTLY., I hadn't champhered the end after it was last cut. Doh!

well done Steve. do you remember what the distinguishing marks were on the Arm that proved it to be OEM or was it just that it was in a sealed Toyota labelled bag? I'd be interested to know.