runsgrateasanut

Thanks Colin, I'm hoping next year will be an expense free year. Drove car today and smiled at the smooth ride and quietness.

Thats the secret Malc. My mechanic takes so long to send me the bill I usually can't recall what it was he did to the car? (April bill awaited!) - it is mentioned to remind me . He is very reasonably priced - only problem being for that he is so popular Brake pipe replacement is now set for the 17th August and i daresay he'll find he has to put it forward - not always his fault when you only have two ramps and parts turn up that are incorrect - hence my sourcing them in advance and having controlled patience.

Thanks Malc sounds like the way to go. Can you tell me, is it possible to remove the reservoir without taking off the serpentine belt and pulley? It may well be that rubber washer beneath it needs to be replaced. Was going to buy a Seal kit but seeing the amount of work involved in taking apart the unit don't think I''m up for all that. I'd get a replacement if needed. As usual looking for the minimum amount of work I can get away with! oh! the hose does it have a psi rating? BTW Amayama can't get a Radiator should anyone need one, as they are no longer stocked.

Delighted to say she doesn't have to go on SORN, like apparantly so many are according to DVLA. So, new Borbet wheels and tyres on, next week me thinks. and now to tackle all those other issues. I've never had a car take up so much of my time. Scotty Kilmer say don't buy a Mercedes and I tend to agree if its after 1998 but I have not had anywhere near the amount of heartache as with this Car. Fact is, once bought they just feel rather special and so the romance goes on irrespective of cost. Just don't please hit me with a Starter Motor fail or it may tip me over the edge of sanity.

So quite a bit of pipework /hoses to replace - did you buy the complete part set from Lexus, or sourced from elsewhere or got in a Plumber as a lot of twists and turns. ? Dare I ask the cost of parts? Agree Brian, change of ATF a good idea. My ATF is not as red as I'd like but doesnt smell burnt. I'm not a kickdown sort of driver., in fact I'd only use it if deperate to get out of a situation.

"Are the ECU capacitors replaced? Bad / leaking caps can cause gearbox issues as well" Its on the listhaving just purchased a desoldering iron - now added pollen filter change to the list. Keeping me busy this car!

You mean "the latest " of course!! Slight fluid leak could be ATF or could be Pwr Steering. Not discovered exact location. Had another look under the bonnet and may be wetness on part just below Reservoir. If that is the Control Valve (Idel off Switch according to Scotty Kilmer) I have a bill Jan 14 showing it to have been replaced £99.07. Maybe its the hose/s. Will have to inspect from beneath sometime later in the week. Will need drop the tray I suspect. Symptoms, selecting reverse at cold not liked by the car and did have an unexpected change down about a week ago, when car hot. Power steering, slight noise at drive off. Level cold was at bottom of dipstick - should it be half way up the cold mark? did put a dribble in, as have done to the ATF.

Sorry I went slightly off topic. That cabin fliter is amazing.

Thanks for input. Anyone who's had one go bad will know what anxiety it brings. I looked at the Nissen and other brands and reviews, and my own choice would be a Silla at $87 imported - lifetime warranty from what I've read. Checked whats in the Car and its a Toyota 5009 part 422130 -6460 3n Japan. I'm not too sure if this is original as I have a problem with my Air intake plastic conduit not fitting precisely over the top. Unless car has an accident history or is out of alignment. Read some alarming threads on plastic top rads exploding. This one is plastic top. I hope I don't have to change the Rad as its not a job I'd want to do again. My coolant is red but I put half a cup of distilled water in when I had a 600 mile return journey last June. Bought some Toyota Red when I got home. Red ATF/Red coolant fluid, not too clever by Toyota. Isnt it yellow somewhere?

Must check mine if my 93 car has one? Worst filter I ever saw was the air filter on my G Limited MR2 I owned until sold 2013. I couldnt believe it, when my mechanic dropped it on the ground there was a cloud of dust like a home hoover bag being dropped. (Well in my home they are like that!) Such an awkward thing to get out it probably was in there since manufacture, in 1993. Replacement did wonders for the emissions levels. ps You could have used that to start the bar-b-que given this wonderful weather.

Reviving this thread, for some reason I thought early LS400's were immune to this possible problem as I must have assumed the Power steering pipes at front were Gearbox cooler pipes. Doh! At 21 years, looks like another part I need to replace to feel sure of no catastrophe, especially as I've almost rebuilt this car with new parts!! Another sleepless night, and 3.00am Rock auto parts scan for Rads, as I had the Autobox pipe literally fall off the Rad on my S Class a couple of years back, fortunately without killing the g/b. So, check out the six or seven alternatives and read the +/- comments and scratch your head as to what to go for. Denso or Koyo (not sold by Rock) Plastic or Brass or Ali top, then there's the fact that Rock don't show the EU flag against all brands, so is American Rad set up different? Will check Amayama price. I keep telling myself all this expense will be worth it in the long run, even if just to keep me in this most friendly of forums!

Reading this old thread as the "leak" mentioned in the MOT is likely or not from the Power Steering system. It had a new control valve just before I bought it (if that is a power steering part?) Not leaking from front cooling tube or rubber connections. Don't know if you've ever been amused by the Scotty Kilmer Channel on vutube but came across this which members might be interested in.Could it be the answer? Will have a better look tomorrow ps Must get my CS3E running its been in storage now about fifteen years. I serviced the Carbs last year but never got to trying the machine. Always something takes me away from the jobs I start.

why am I always ten years behind the trend!

Parts fitted today but turns out that the Gaiters (boots) from previous UCA's (OEM??) are no good as the bottom hole needs be only 13mm and not 17mm. Strange, and can't explain not having kept the old Arms to examine. Having measured the spare I see thats absolutely the size needed. Fortunately mechanic had a spare. So MX5 size boots good for these Chinese and Taiwanese Arms - Here's hoping the bushes last longer! Retest Wednesday - fingers crossed.

Scratching head - as have on the floor a Facia and a Sony Xplod to eventually put in. So you replace Radio with tablet and listen to Radio through Tablet which is like Radio on a mobile phone? Don't need a CD player as you download all your music to the tablet. Is this what its about? (being a total numpty as regards techno ICE?)

see this thread for photo of the Nearside arm rubber which matches this Chinese spare. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/98084-quality-of-non-oem-parts/

Colin the DC176K may be a better fit if the lower hole will stretch. Sorry I've got a bit confused (as will you have withm my thread!!) with RHS/LHS UK/American. Just took off the wrapping to my Drivers side and putting up photo. Now this does not look like the photo of the spare which I show in this thread. I think its also for Drivers side. (Long arm forward) So, it must be is Chinese Arm (one of the pair) on the N/Side which has disintegrated rubber and the Drivers side is the Taiwan arm which looks OK having unwrapped it. I wrapped it when the Sun was making it diffcult to see and with the wheel on etc. So only one needed to be repalced rubber but this spare arm will need the rubber replaced before use at any time. The Yank got it wrong - their stuff is no good unless rubber replaced. As for the bushes? Will wait and see.

ps for interest sake - the outer measurement of this rubber is 46mm. There is about 3mm each side of the inner measure of the OEM rubber gaitor - so compatible

I'll check them out Colin. I agree that a cable tie is probably the best. I've already ordered Nos. 100 - 200mm by 2.5mm which is the best width and assurred length. I'm posting a photo of a spare UCA that I purchased as a pair having had a single fitted to my N/S but the single I bought for the O/side was for a Lexus SC. So I bought a pair, and have a spare. I'm not sure if the rubber gaitor on the "made in China" one that you see here, actually has had the same deterioration of the rubber. I couldn't easily see it when I wrapped it and i don't know if the MOT inspection actually peeled back the cling film and tape to check. If its OK (and I am assured by the seller that they have not had any problems with them) then this will half the work for my mechanic. Interestingly you will see that the style of gaitor is not concertina. Would it even need be? This part does not compress surely? What I don't know also, is if the rubber in the bushes is also a poor quality and likely to fail? I'll ask my mechanic to look on Monday when he does the work.

Good thinking Colin, but the smaller aperture is a bonded hard plastic. Daresay it doesnt matter as long as you get a couple of years or so from the cheaper UCA's, I missed from the list of faults one lower Ball joint - I have a pair of Japanese mnfd ones bought via ebay Australia also sitting in the Dining room! So another "to do". Either cable ties or perhaps S/S ties may be easier to fit than the circlip which is an absolute pain to remove.

"Massive fail" the mechanic said to the Receptionist who asked about the Lexus MOT, I thought rather indelicately as I was within earshot. "Will be with you in a minute Sir as just dealing with these people" when he noticed me.. So I sat looking at the brand new Mondeo etc in the Showroom waiting somewhat crestfallen for the verdict. He kept me waiting a further five minutes whilst I now recognise he was pricing up the repair costs online. Came to £1,779.18 when he eventually called me to the desk. Well, it wasn't quite as bad as I thought. The good news? the Car had passed the emissions - Hooray! I didn't see the figures but it passed. First and Second on the list were the Control Arm perished gaitors. (I was told by others and himself later) that they could not remove things and so my clingfilm and insulating tape must have been disturbed to see the rubber problem. - I kept the old Gaitors so can be replace and problem solved. Offside front A-roll bar linkage excessive play. OK Just bought two (not knowing if they'd send me the wrong side) from Rock cost £59 - against Lexus price for one £95.36 + VAT. Advisorys Slight leak engine/ gearbox - asked for where, he said he couldn't remove the undertray to check!! No, but he can remove clingfilm and tape! Front tyres wearing on inner edges - actually outer edge on one, and have two new tyres plus set of Alloys to be fitted. O/S/R tyre 3mm tread Thought rears were OK and planned to use on new wheels? Maybe not. I'd booked my mechanic to replace various pieces of brake pipe but he'll need do these things instead. No mention this time of rusting rear springs or brake pipe or rear wishbones all of which I have sitting in packaging in my dining room!! Maybe not such a "massive fail" as suggested.

Excellent photos Paul - surprised someone hasn't marketed these flanges to fit. The guy who does sells the top ones on ebay didn't seem too interested unfortunately. I gave him the measurements and one should slip onto the 3mm stainless pipe part that extends beyond the muich depleted Cat flange making the job easier. Great job and hope to do something similar -eventually!!

Any chance of putting up some photo's of the repair? As you said, some say a cheap fix whereas I was quoted £450 for the flanges to Cats. Backed out of that and hoping the Black silicone is still holding for tomorrows MOT and CO2 level has dropped since last test. Thing is with welding you run the risk of someone mucking up the ECU. To take off the "Y" pipe to do a good job fitting new flanges, you have to take off the rear Lambda's. Not only do mine look welded to the car but to remove them requires taking out carpeting so I have been told unless you cut and join which can't be recommended under the car taking all the wet and grit. So how did they do yours, exactly?

There's an awful lot of info on the plusses and minus's of where and what to buy if you put the part into the google search engine on this site. I have imported fronts (and I assume you mean fronts?) wishbones from America with mixed results. The single one I bought the rubber was disintegrating within three months. A pair I bought from this link though my car being a '93 it doesn't look the same. They were adament they had a better product but I have'nt removed the black clingfilm and insulating tape that I put on the only one I used, to see if the rubber lasted longer - Car is up for MOT next week and depending on findings I may have to undo the tape. Fact is, that if you keep your original rubber gaitors then should the enw ones perish quickly you may be able to repalce them and the unit may (I say may) last for a good time. Check out Rock Auto Parts in USA don't forget import duty and shipping costs. http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/1996/Lexus/LS400/Control_Arm_Kit/93-80393_K1.html?xref=1360065

Hello mine is looking suspect also - whats going on here?