runsgrateasanut

Like Amazon the Box was way over the size needed (about ten times) and had not been tampered with. They had been removed at the stock shelf is my guess. Can you imagine the the cost of processing an insurance claim!

Back on the 9th I bought from Rock two packs described as Wholesale Closeout parts - Disk Brake Hardware Kit. Frankly, I wasn't sure what I'd be getting but hoped they would include Caliper pins. They didn't! Just 8 spring clips and four coat hanger style spring clips. One of the packs had been thumb forced open and was missing its Coat hanger Spring clips. I emailed Rock and they have since sent me a replacement box with all parts. Came in last week. I paid £9.71 which included the postage for these parts and so the cost to them of replacing one box - which they did promptly, can't give them any sort of profit.

Not keen on removing door panels myself, unless absolute necessity. The lazy man way is to inject along bottom drainage points and seal, always remembering that it should only be done after a heatwave when the door interior is thoroughly dry - Oil on water etc. Drive around and make a few sharp stops on an empty road to draw it along the complete door length, and then drain.

Watched below and thought do I need do this? Car is twenty five years and just beginning to perhaps show a bead of rust along the strip. I think I'd force stuff in at the bottom and then seal over the holes. - briefly, before allowing to drain which could be a messy business. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHMpJebGx_g

I've not had a reply to when the last MOT was taken. Perhaps also it would be interesting to know what it says from a viewpoint of a Car being abandoned. We know just how expensive parts are for these Cars - lovely as they are. Daresay we've all seen ebay cars that have been left in the front garden unmoved for six years and they don't look like this one! Nor do the ones I've seen at the breakers yard. Miraculous is the word I'm thinking of.

I can concur with the rust issues although only the front wings are displaying rust on my car. Spongy ride? I'm not sure but now I've got an "off-Roader" with these incorrectly quoted KYB springs at the back it will be firmer! Power steering leaks another problem and just ordered brand new replacement Pump and new Alternator which will be in the car for the next 2000 mile run. Praying there won't be an "event" pre return to UK to have them fitted. Will be a change from taking those two Rear Springs each trip!

As you only know the Reg number when was the last MOT ? Perhaps you could contact the RAC as they may, if the owner is a current Member ,(although Data protection Act will probably stop them relaying any info to you) , contact the owner to inform him/her of what you say is happening. I do have some doubts that a Car left on waste ground up North would not have suffered from Vandalism, and not look pristine. Has it been moved? A small amount of marks on the tarmac suggests it has?

Mine wouldn't look that clean after nine months let alone nine years?

Aluminium on brass valve threads not a good idea or visa versa. Especially coupled with salt. I have an Ali Boat and a brass screw left in the hull with a bit of salt water sploshing around will see it make a hole to drop through. The founder of Mercury Engines relayed that story to me many years ago as he had had it happen to his Boat. I also couldn't get an Ali cap off a Motorcyle valve. It was anodised gold but it was still Ali.

If that's the case it will be the death knell for these older cars. Worth keeping an eye on the Bay as I've picked up a few OEM items at bargain prices in the past. Also I've bought parts from the USA and Australia so I doubt it will be a problem. Then there's ToyoDIY.com to check out.

A really professional explanation for LS430 owners. Well done. My Sub doesn't work but I think I'll leave it. With my LS400 I found Seat removal quite a strain, and putting it back has been a backbreaking exercise which I fear I've failed at. Mounting the rear seat on the four pegs (not screw in bolts) looks a doddle until you try it. Both side clips go over the pegs with a lot of effort but getting it on to the middle two pegs I think has beaten me. Bit of a gap at parcel shelf centre. I tried replacing the Cushion yesterday, but it also doesn't wan't to go back far enough to drop into the two slots. Given up for now as I can see my Sciatica coming on big time. Am I alone in this experience with the Mk2 rear seat?

Have you considered downloading Adblock Plus. ? You'll still get a pop up for the Lexus RX450H but little else. Also stops that pre-advertising on U tube which is so annoying.

The Chart can't be right unless its up to October 1994 and not RD5979. My ride is going to be firmer with a longer spring and more tension on the damper. I'll leave them until after our next tip and then decide if replace. I'd buy Moogs from Rock as importing will not be too expensive. I think Moog are German? The 5979 have a flattened out base but I can't remember if the top is also flattened out? Not as Suplex style. (The rubber Gaitors are Mini Steering Rack Gaiters I asked my mechanic to modify to fit. Cost less than a Tenner.)

Your comment in 2014 in that other thread, Steve quote IIRC the rear springs on the October 1994 on models (series III) were longer than the earlier models so this may explain the difference in height. Unquote. KYB should not be saying they are right for 1989 - 1993 (Mk11 and Mk 1) This is what it says on the Invoice from Parts Superstore (e-bay purchase back in 2015) Irritating, and now showsing me that the Nexens I put on the rear are getting low, so two replacement Maxxis's (which I have on the front the same age and have worn well) are now on order. PS I'll be allright for off-roading!

Andy, If you still own the Lexus, what did you finally do about this situation which is a blunder I've just fallen foul of? Did you use the Car for Offroading??? LOL Did you change the Springs

Thank you Phil. Oh how I wish I'd read that thread before. Having had these Springs since 2015 and only now after a second attempt have they been fitted "by the book". and left me with a Dragster Lexus. I'm going to have to run with these for the foreseeable future but they are definately NOT the correct size Spring for this model. I think I made mention elsewhere of having recently looked on Rock and seen a diagram for Moog Springs that don't seem to have flat ends, at all. Just my luck to get screwed by KYB bad information. I'll have to weight the Car down next MOT to get the Lights to pass the test. It will be loaded for our next trip abroad and I've got an LPG Conversion kit and Toroidal which may make some difference if and when fitted. BU**ER !!

Shirish, I yesterday had the rear springs replaced with KYB's and frankly I'm a bit troubled. First impression on seeing the Car was that it had converted into a ~Dragster. There is about four inches clearance above the rear tyres. Now either its normal or the Springs that KYB claim are for all LS400's from 89 to 94 (No RD5979) are not correct for the Car, or they've put the wrong Springs in the Boxes.? I'll have to live with it for the moment and not driven anywhere to see what the driving experience is. The fronts now have about three inches clearance. As long as the Light settings will still pass the MOT and l ensure I can see ahead in darkness then perhaps I'll get used to the opposite of Low Rider?

I've placed a piece of black insulating tape about 1.5 inches behind the perspex where the bulb is brightest and it has made a difference. Unfortunately my Camera's disposable batteries are very low and for some reason they darken the room background, but this my last photo (I promise) and I think gives as best I can get. The reason for this saga is partly to give a more modern blink to the indicators (so I imagined) but also the Amber bulb is not that bright in daylight in Clear Housing. So its a sort of safety addition. Won't be done until I'm in a garage abroad some weeks away. I've left sufficient cabling as the indicator units have to be pulled out at almost 90 degrees. I'm planning a drive down to Frejus so it may not get done at all. C'est la vie.! Another attempt at the rear Springs replacement taking place tomorrow by my Mechanic. Good luck with that!

The Camera image detracts from the actual visual effect. Poor Camera? or it just enhances the brighter light to the detriment of the LED's seems to be what happens. Below is with a 5w bulb and it looks exactly the same as the 21w bulb. Fitting resistors would be a pain I suspect, as they'd have to be screwed to metal which is too far back to reach from outside the car. Although I've bought a couple I doubt I will use them. Heat generation with the 21w bulb in situ and the Q. if 9 LED's will produce heat sufficient to melt perspex are my only concerns. OK they are intermittant, but if I broke down and they had to become hazzard lighting, would they burn out?

Fiddling whilst Rome burns to coin a metaphor. Messed around to see outcome of LED's as indicators. 1) Strip with bulb still in situ. May avoid need for load resistors and stop hyper flashing?? 2) LED's on their own. Perhaps putting a 12v 5W bulb in there with them to trick the flasher unit is a better idea? Sorry no photo but will take one later, maybe. 3) LED's stuck to perspex strip and see entry point. Would be sealed with clear silicone should I decide to put these into my Clear indicator units. Not checked for certain that there is room for cable to run up to the bulb unit cable. It may be very tight and I'm surprised by how thin the wire is to the LED's. About a fifth of a millimeter single core. Too cold to check today. Comments advice always welcome. An unnecesary and pointless addition perhaps but it occupies my tiny mind whilst more important World matters play out. Not sure about this new Defence Secretary.. Bit of a howler me thinks!

Here's a thought. You can buy a new Sensor or there is a Lexus LS400 Throttle body on the Bay which has been cleaned and has a sensor for about the same money. A quick swap with new Gasket and you may have fixed two jobs - cleaning (which after 110k miles is I can confirm necessary) and Sensor to see if fixes problem.

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Reading up, it would seem that Load Resistors may be necessary to stop hyper flashing. I'll check out what happens indoors when connected to a 12v battery using an Amber unit. Hyper flashing when the indicators are controlled by being power on/off may be barely noticeable? But it may be necessary for safe use? I'll put up a photo in due course.

I've got clear fronts and so I'll just experiment with the old Amber Units. It seems to be no more than splicing into the pos and neg leads to the holder and then inserting the strip through the hole into the unit. I'll keep the holder free just in case I have to return to a bulb. Not being electrically minded I'm making an assumption that the low voltage or wattage of LED's will not need a Relay and because they generate no heat (and will operate intermittantly) then they won't need to be away from the plastic front of the unit, where they will work best. Will the system work with these or throw up a bulb fault or even act as though a bulb is out? Who knows? Ordered a pair of Motorcyle strips for £4.39. Cheap experiment. Will let all know in due course.

I've always thought to make Boot/Bonnet struts last, you should never slam them down. Tell that to the Wife or Sons and they just give a quizzical look of scorn. I like the sidelight brightness improvement. Been looking on e-bay.com to see if I can buy LED striplight indicator units to replace bulbs but only seem to sell daylight/indicator lengths. Would not work for the needs. Pity, as I rather like the idea of the whole Orange plastic housing lighting up (as well as the wingside repeaters) to modernise the car slightly. I recognise I'd have to make a change to the way the two parts connect to one another. They would look a bit like the Audi I suppose.