runsgrateasanut

Did he mean? My last one did 7 years https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yuasa-Car-Battery-Calcium-Black-Case-12V-700CCA-90Ah-T1-For-Lexus-LS400-4/372234324196?hash=item56aae508e4:g:FmMAAOSw30NalKVn:rk:1:pf:0

With my own ECU Stu, I had my bench lined up to do the job. Must have been six Soldering irons and all sorts of fluxes etc. Having removed the obvious corner screws and the thing not coming apart I bottled it and just put the srews back and sent it to America for a rather expensive repair. Took four weeks to return and in between I bought the one on t/bay. Both arrived by Postman on the same day so reinstalled my original. There had only been one issue (and members advice on the subject) that made me think it could need Caps replacement. The Car behve fine in idle, started first time but when I got up to speed and say 80mph in France instead of the O/D seeming to come into play, the car jerked and I instinctively throttled back with a feeling of anxiety. So, never taken the Car above this speed, Has the replacmeent Caps sorted this? No so must be a gearbox solenoid issue, but still not checked the OBD port to confirm. Laziness and too cold to venture out. If nobody buys the ECU I'm selling I may invest in sending it to your linked repairer to have the Caps replaced.I've no knowledge of its history but for the price you paid I'd keep it just in case I ever felt inclined (not likely, I suspect) to install it and see what results with my O/D situation. The Car drives much the same as berore I spent the money on the ECU. Sharp enough but under load uphills say the Amberzacs it struggles. Mond you I will now turn off O/D to get up those hills so it could be my driving it wrongly that causes it to struggle. Perhaps you'll let me know the name of the guy? (will cut off here as Andy message coming through)

Wouldn't say it was a doddle, so leave it to someone confident. Hidden screws under the Glovebox lining flummoxed me for a while as I mentioned on a thread here at the time, screaming for help. A few things to consider. Firstly, there is a port for reading error codes on your Car and I've put a link below. Its a rectangular box under the engine bay easy to spot. (edit - sorry you've done this) Secondly, I would want to be sure that the seller of the Caps has imported them from a legit producer or is a member of this forum. Ask for an image of a Receipt to show they purchased them from America and that they are not Chinese imitations that have flooded the market and that this person is making a mint selling as genuine. Trouble ahead if not genuine. Lastly, I'm amazed it would only take an hour to do the job of replacing all eight Caps, bearing in mind the complexity of sandwich pcb and possible leakage from originals. (see expert level soldering) Lastly, lscowboy (in Stu's video link) told me he pays £1000 for a litre of flux and the job takes him some time to do. How you find someone to do it for £40 I can't understand but as long as they don't screw the ECU then who can complain. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vynb_HdEIDU

Andy I think Scotty Kilmer answers your Q. Slight difference in process with your '93 and it lies flat rather than upright, but similar and there is a lexus video on removal but you'll get the gist that its not Rocket Science. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOSEJu7_Upc

Hi Andy, Good question, on the installing a replacement ECU. Not too sure myself as didn't do it in the end. I did remove and refit my own after the Caps had been changed. There's a useful link to removing the ECu but its not completely accurate for your model. Others on this forum know the answer or perhaps try a US forum via google and see if you can find the answer. Just put the Q into google for your Car model and age. It seems a pity to sell the Car as scrap when you've enjoyed it so long and it doesn't sound as though its terminal. Did the previous Mechie tighten up the throttle body or do the job properly. Did you see it after cleaning and before re-installing. I'm a cynic. Yes the ECU is on t'bay I only listed it last week. To get a decent car (and who knows with older cars what will not be a money pit (though glossy on the outside) you'll have to spend some money. Better the Devil etc. especially if its good in all other respects, tyres and a nice interior etc. Short journeys which you mention can cause difficult starting, but as you say there are lots of other things to consider. I've not read on this forum of a MAF sensor failing but once again put it into the forum search box or let google do the walking by putting Q's into the search line. A lot of reading but may find some useful clues. Frustrating for youI understand.

Afterthought - did you leave the handbrake on?

Quote The next day I started the car in the morning and it started perfectly, but when I put it into reverse to back out of the drive it stalled. It would not re start-the engine was turning over ok but just would not start. Unquote This seems to be the most worrying aspect of what you've said in your threads. This may suggest that the ECU is at fault, unless you stopped the Car before reversing, which starting again can overfuel and clog a newly started car. ? You can look at the Air intake plastic part that connects to the Throttle body to see that the small bore rubber pipe is not split and that it is still OK going in to the main black plastic body. Suggest worth taking a look yourself and ruling out as a possible cause. My Mechanic has never bauked at doing anything to the Car and at a reasonable price but there are Cowboys out there and sounds like you've experienced a few. Perhaps give your location (Cheltenham?) and ask members for a recommendation? ps I recently listed a 1993 ECU for sale on ebay, as surplus to requirements, condition explained.

Additional to my last reply you may want to check the rubber pipe to the IACV or it could be MAF sensor related. Have you changed the Air filter in recnet times? On my Car the connecting small bore tube next to the the throttle body aperture where the IACV rubber hose clamps had almost broken free, thereby enabling more air to be sucked in, post MAF sensor. Here's another link for you to consider as possible cause. https://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/how-to-tell-if-you-have-a-faulty-mass-airflow-sensor

Don't know if this clip may help you or you can make sense of it? I seem to recall replacing some sort of sprung device by the Oil dip stick once. 'Fraid my memory doesn't tell me what it did or does, but near to the part referred to in this clip. Whatever it was I doubt it actually needed replacing. Sorry can't help. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=where+is+the+EGR+valve+on+a+lexus+ls400+engine&view=detail&mid=20659664EF169EFFA6FC20659664EF169EFFA6FC&FORM=VIRE

Malc, Back in 2003 a Jim Walker made the following comment in a Post entitled "Air Conditioning problem Ls400" " i am an electronics engineer so I decided to explore this problem and I found that the glass liquid crystal display itself is the part that fails, as opposed to an electronic component that drives the display. These displays are custom made for or by Lexus so you can't just go to the neighborhood Liquid Crystal Display store and by a replacement. Lexus won't sell them, they only sell the whole climate control unit. " He then went on to say he was going to get 100 made up. You can buy RHD versions from Tannin Electronics on t'bay USA $99.99 + $13.99 shipping, plus import charge whatever. Its not a lot but I can't really be bothered with going to the trouble of changing it. Getting lazier every year that goes bye! Last years Alternator and Power Steering pump was enough for me - or was it the previous year?? Blimey daren't blink these days time is going so fast! I think that Mr Doofa would have wished he had read the thread before buying into Lexus. I sometimes think I should. May have stayed with the S Class, albeit Scotty's nightmare. The Cars mentioned were only ten years old then. My own is now 25 years and I think I've dealt with most of its failings but pray that the Air Con stays as great as it's been. Don't of course know its history. but I always use it at least for part of every trip however short, to ensure the seals don't dry out, etc.

I didn't think it was a question of aging solder but if it was I could only wish that I had this experts touch to soldering. Thought it was owing to the LCD's giving up the Ghost. ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

Standard buttons. Non standard Facia panels. Clock, because I just can't bring myelf to buy a new LCD strip from America for RHD which they price at three times LHD. Happy to pay import charges but... As I used to collect real Movement Watches and have about forty sat in a box (unloved, unviewed and unused) I thought it time to find a home for a Quartz which doesn't quite go with these and also not require daily winding.

Having lost a wad of money importing a beautiful Steering wheel which was not for a '93 vehicle but a later model I decided not to bother changing it. I spotted this, which is not one of those full wrapped round leather and pretend wood with chrome divider sew on covers but (IMO) a better alternative. For under £17 I thought it worth a punt. Part of the reason is that I occasionally suffer from Carpel Tunnel on long trips and so this makes for a wider diameter wheel grip. The part duly arrived just before Christmas and I decided not to remove the cover over the 3m sticky quarter inch strip as I found it was secure enough when put on. However, for the '93 each part was a bit too long. The longest by 25mm and the short parts which fitted ok but were not flush enough because they were too close to the frame, I cut off 7mm. Chamfered the edge and with some Walnut quick drying paint tidied an end. Invisible to the eye. Admit I didn't add varnish. If anyone buys one they need only pm me and I'll send a small sachet of Walnut matching paint and a pipe cleaner to tidy the end if you decide to cut off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Walnut-Wood-Steering-Wheel-Cover-for-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Lexus-Camry/283240957147?hash=item41f27a04db:g:SD0AAOSwimZbhXah:rk:36:pf:0

Bought one from the States similar price - seems to be working OK. Its the pipe issue that may cost. Find out the part number and ask Lexus Direct what the pipe costs.

Bet the age range varies considerably by Lexus Model, so average is not really indicative. Suspect the LS400 is way above that average or is it just me - oh and Malc? I don't put my age into any forums or sites if I can avoid it. Just a security thing not being astute enough to keep ahead of the computer crims.

Called Antimacassars https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimacassar

Likewise treated the pipe to Hammerite a couple of ears ago. Starting to show rust signs on it so must do it again. Its the underside which is the difficulty. I carry two lengths of 12mm copper pipe joined with elbow compression joints in the boot - just in case it leaks somewhere abroad. Not an easy job to replace I imagine. Headlamp removal necessary perhaps? I recently bought an oil cooler on t'bay for very little cash and thinking is it worth substituting or would it affect the Air con ability if placed in front of the Condensor??

Never had that pleasure, just the design makes me think of the Zil. Seeing vu-tube vids of Russian calamitous driving don't think I'd be brave enough to drive on their roads.

Reminds me of a Zil.

John, Just when I'd decided NOT to have installed but sell the LPG Conversion Kit with unused Torodial I've had knocking around it seems forever, you tell us the sort of MPG figure which makes me envious. Only Diesel i ever owned was a Renault Safrane briefly, which went into limp mode and has a non accessible Gearbox for checking level. New BoxSir? no thanks - it went to a Londoner who drives local and can only ever reach second gear most of the time. Comfortable seats but the smell of Diesel seemed to always be there. Not the norm I'm sure. Swansea too far away for installation so think Kit will have to go after Christmas. Wife will be pleased.

On a Mk2 there is an out and back cooling pipe which you can see when you raise the Bonnet. They can corrode and leak. Otherwise, the Seal between PSP body and Reservoir can begin to leak as it deteriorates. Also, where the twin pipe Vacuum lines go into the body of the PSP (underside regrettably and not easy to see, the seal can go and the plastic can possibly split. See Vutube Scotty Kilmer on this item. Other than that any pipe connection can leak from the flexi pipe or O high pressure line connection. Pipe under bonnet runs across Radiator ( or the Air con) and likely to leak the most I'd think

I bought a pair of 555 on ebay but they had to be sent to me from Australia. Cost a lot more than £20 from memory. They are good but I only needed to replace one at the time. Could try t'bay.au to see if any for sale. May be lucky?

Presume this is a result of a compression test or an "experts" opinion? I remember seeing an earlier LS400 for sale with over 300k miles on single point LPG

That's interesting Phil, but many times I go out of the house and open the boot with a key and don't unlock the Car with the button press. Its only on rare occasions that it sets off the alarm. I would think that you should be able to open the boot with a key without disarming the system. Sure I'm not alone in finding it tedious that you can't unlock the boot when the Car Engine is running. Times I've had to switch off so the Customs Gendarmes in Calais can check the boot - just a bit of an inconvenience. Do later Cars still have this system? Seems silly as you are not going to want petrol or to open the boot whilst the Car is in motion.

From what year were softer Valves used by Lexus? Whats the mileage on the Car you mention?