runsgrateasanut

Gave myself more work than I care for - Too old for all this malarkey! However stripped back the plastic to check and replace the plugs, Lead set, Coil (not two- 2nd too difficult to get to) possibly the ECT (Cabling looks difficult to just lift off the unit, so probably will leave alone (temp always constant on long trips) to get to the bottom of the occaisonal misfire on overtaking at speed (120kph) doesn't go into O/D and one in the Dartford Tunnel (45 mph) not something you want to experience. Changed plugs before - Dont buy Prospark! only good thing about them is that they are numbered. however their lengths don't match and as you can see in photo's I've possibly discovered part of the problem. No 1 spark lead (I had to replace put back the old Yazaki lead, three years ago as the plastic shroud or Cam spliced through the No 1 the moment I started the engine. It ran on 7, Doh! Well, you can see No 1 lead has been touching the Cam belt in two places and maybe causing the spark to divert. Not sure. I put in Brisk spark plugs last time as I thought I'd go LPG. THe LPG kit is in my Hall for sale on t'bay as I don't think it will ever happen. Wales is too far to go. Number 5 cylinder plug I pulled and apart from it being oily on the thread the burn looks OK to me. I have a new set of Denso's but they are not easy to get out and the Brisks have only done 20k so may leave in. Wife wants me to take her to the Dentist tomorrow (havn'y you finioshed the job yet? etc (no I made that up) and it should be back together if I leave the plugs. A new Throttle position to be fitted as may be the cause of my problem or wrng calibration. I have diffculty with the Lexls explanation of how to Calibrate. Also each vutube vid always shows three terminals and we have four. Diagram doesn't epclain which is what on Lexls photo. So, busy busy busy! Lucky me!

That does make sense. I forgot you bought it this way. Pay a bit more but get a better looked after Car. Inspection possible. I suspect that importers aren't making too much money however in this trade. The black one (t'bay) still remains unsold although pictured elsewhere to original listing. At £4000 it is difficult to see how a profit could be made by importing that Car unless it was very low priced to start with, for whatever reason.

Tempus fugit ! Just too expensive to buy from Japan whilst the currency is at such a low exchnage rate. With a £1500 Shipping charge it makes little sense to buy blind, and have to cope with Japanese instrument language for some things. Its also a misnoma that all Japanese Cars are rust free apparantly. Low mileage is of course the plus to all this and bargains to be had if you have the patience to wait for what arrives and hope that it meets expectations. Clearly your has, Phil. Excellent buy.

How are you finding the Maxxi's perform having lowered the pressure that was too high, as I recall your last thread on the subject. Nicer ride, more grip, or what? Having not a clue about fuel usage to tyre spec, is there any significant difference you have noticed since reducing the pressure?

Duct tape stops the screw falling out. I daresay I could fill the hole and then drill a countersink so the screw is set solid, but life is too short. I'd use Lumberjack Wood Adhesive which dries in five mins and which is lethal to skin when curing, but seems to stick everything under the Sun and goes rock hard. My Sandels soles came apart in France and this stuff stuck them back together in no time. Ha ha ha.

Can't add any advice. I would just say that the earlier model cars with the blip button on the side of the case I feel was a poor and irritating design. The key hole that holds the front to the back invariably reams out over the years and duct tape to hold both together is sadly necessary. Manouvering that fob to press the button with large hands is irritatingly fiddly. You don't have that problem. Agree that the Blade is welded into the unit which is why I sold a Spare I acquired, thinking I could just transfer the blade and pc board. No go!

Will you need to change out the Radiator? What year Car? Is it a Valeo Rad?

There's a ridge along it so looks like its been put on upside down, and probably needs be be turned over and around. Then might align with screw holes

Can't say if this helps but should be two screws where only one is seen.

If I had the Soldering skills of this Man or lived near Steve in Cheshire I'd buy a RHD to replace my non-existant display. However... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

That's a lot of Car for the money. Well done. If it has a current MOT then even better. If not, well that depends on what needs doing to it.

You can get one from these people. Pity RHD costs more than double LHD but c'est la vie ! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1994-Toyota-Celsior-Lexus-LS400-RHD-Climate-Control-HVAC-LCD-Screen/253064035229?epid=25011487432&hash=item3aebcabb9d:g:ACAAAOSwmE9cRzzN

Do update on the results of your check, please. Would you not have needed to disconnect the battery to update your ECU on the new MAF? Struggling with a misfire issue under load, so reading anything and everything that might explain.

What voltage battery and code number did you put in?

Assume you've changed the cell batteries? Car unlocks and starts on the key?

Absolutely right. I tend to switch it off and on rather a lot but I'd always use it when the engine bay is likely to get extremely hot to ensure it keeps the pipes lubricated. Can't say for sure if the Car has had any trouble with the A/C but certainly not in my ownership and re-gassing should never be necessary unless you've got a leak, I believe. Any Car for sale that says it needs a re-gas I'd avoid lke the plague having owned a Merc 320S and a Toyota Supra Mk 3 which had no air conditioning and a prohbitive cost to repair.

Exactly right - as I visited the local tip Thursday and had to queue while they crunched the stuff down - ticked over at 630rpm and when A/C came on it went to perhaps just under 800rpm. Not noticed any diving but down a slight hill into a 30mph zone with A/C on, does require some breaking.

Clean the Throttle body first I'd have thought unless you know for certain that it has been cleaned. Is your car a mechanical Throttle or drive by wire?

If your OBD2 gave a reading as to a fuel problem then maybe a clean would sort it, but if no error code for fuel mix then why touch it? I did spray clean Merc MAF sensors, not that I noticed any difference as it was usually the IACV that got choked with carbon. Lexus MAF's may be a completely dfifferent style, so couldn't say it is a good idea.

Coming attraction Lethal Weapon after watching the 7.00 highlights of the Tour de France on Ch 24 bought a Tear to my eye. Thats no way to treat a Lexus!

Further thought, Have you done a diagnostic test? Not sure if faults with A/C show Read this thread. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html OBD1 not OBD2

Pete, According to my Owners Manual the cold tyre pressure for the Car is 30psi not 33 psi which is for fronts fully loaded. Rear would be 39psi fully loaded. Would explain the side wear. unless your Car is seriously heavier than the earlier model?

But Phil, yours has yet reached puberty! 😄

The engine of my Car does speed up when A/C kicks in which of course can happen at varying times, especially when the car has reached the correct internal climate temp but if stopped in traffic heat will cause it to kick in. Normal, I have assumed. Sounds like you perhaps should check that the compressor is bolted tight if getting a judder. Or could it be to do with the Serpentine belt failing? Not sure about the braking part but if you are sloing an engine which is high revving and it suddenyl fgoes to lower revving then you won't need so much pressure. Not felt it mysellf but perhps aggresive driving may create a noticeable dive? Sorry no definitive answer as not a mechanic.

Phew! Passed the MOT yesterday with no advisories. Tried a new MOT place rather than the usual Ford dealership (they didn't send me a reminder this year and I'd fogotten how close it was to expiry) and expected one unusual issue may cause a fail, but passed. The guy who tested took half the time I usually expect and charged less. When I said to him before the test I'm hopeful it will pass as a French trip is planned, he said "of course it will pass - its a Lexus" Told me he had had an LS430 in the past, and what a Car! Too hot to go for a twenty mins drive before the test even though the A/C working, so emisions shall we say were "iffy".