runsgrateasanut

Hello Howard, did you buy new Sump and Autobox plugs from Lexus direct or ebay. What price?

OK I don't mind spending money to replace parts I know are bad. This old thread also mentions "Knock Sensor". I copied and pasted this reply from someone on the US forum and would like to know if what is said applikes to the 1993 model. Is there only one knock Sensor or two? Would Lexus Dealership be able to link my Car to discover the fault whilst the Car engine is running? OBD1 system. Or would it be purely a guessing game by the toyota trained people? Quote You can change the knock sensors and wire harness without removing the intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve, PCV hose and you can get you hand into the V area of the block. A 27mm socket and small rachet with a flex head and the job is done. Unquote PS Car is running on 98RON when incident happens. New Petrol filter installed,

My new quote was 25% higher but when I said I'm unlikely to be doing 8k mile during the year it went back to its previous figure. Adrian Flux never picked up on the thread I started a month or so ago, and I get a bit pi**ed off having to delete their sticky every time I go on here. As not a Gold club member guess I'll just have to put up with it. Insurance companies are going to make Hay while the Sun Shines on Motor in the current situation to offset claims elsewhere.

Update on previous The plate added to rear sensors will fit as front sensors, but the plate is marginally thicker than an original part and so instead of using a Gasket my mechanic who will do the job next week use a smear of Flue Fire Seal which is OK to temp up to 1500c. Fortunately, I have some left over from the two Wood Burners (I don't burn wood) that I re-roped around the doors last year. It won't be on the thread of the Sensor. It will be interesting to examine the old sensors to find out if they are faulty or have been chafed. 27 years - is a lot of work for a part to suffer but no engine light ever appears when the Car stutters at speed. Might replace the rears also. Makes sense. Can't test of course until who knows when?

Link didn't open for me - said security risk. Will check my settings.

Blimey, I learn something every day on this forum. Never new they existed.

Quite understand. The pipe is flanged and the Screw in Nut (?) is very slightly flared so that no Washer is required but its the tighness of the fit that seals - I think I'm right in saying. I did suggest my mechanic put PTFE tape at the outer area of the thread when installing the new filter to be doubly sure.

That's a nightmare Howard - good luck with sourcing that part etc. I can tell you that my mechanic couldn't undo the Fuel Filter even on the second occasion I left the Car with him. The pipe to front was immediately right angled and between parts so perhaps (?) looking at your photo, not so difficult to cut off and put a length of pipe in if the Nut gets mangled and has to be cut off. Third visit, I gave him an American tool which I thought might just work on undoing the Nut, and he succeeded. It was one similar to this set. After he did the job I happened upon a single one on t'bay for a tenner and bought it for him as a gift. Holding on to my set ! Must cut open the old filter to see what it looks like inside. Been done more than a year ago. ps I have a length of tubing with Nut and 8mm compression joints, which i advertised on t'bay some time back. If interested I'll tell you more about the parts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Wrench-Hawks-Beak-Grips-Set-Adjustable-Spanner-Trade-Quality-4pc/153689661329?hash=item23c89e1f91:g:TFkAAOSwEIBec1Eq

Likewise when my Alternator failed on the M20 strangely the Battery Warning light did NOT come on despite the Car having driven from the QE Bridge to half a mile from Stop24 perhaps purely on the battery!

Having just returned from the Supermarket suitably masked and goggled, via a circuitous route to get the Car up to temp (battery been hovering around the 12.3v mark) I'm thinking "what on earth would I want to change this marvoulous Car for?" Your Celsior is beautiful Steve. You'll only regret selling it.

Cars do rust in Japan depending which area its located - so I've been told. You'd need a good look underneath. If its been brought back and untreated then it won't be a good example. I imagine its going to be very much a buyers market when lockdown is lifted. Those imported Celsiors just arn't going to make the price sellers want. They are not a young persons choice of Car exterior design and the older generation are going to be wary of spending cash to change vehicles when the plague continues to float round being potentially lethal. Some Celsiors have been hanging around for more than a year. As perhaps with most people, Iooking at an alternative Car is a diversion from boredom and after six year ownership has made me think of two alternatives. A LS460 which was for sale rather cheap. Discussed a swap for car and cash but lockdown and my Car not being 100% scotched the prospect. I've always preferred Mercedes S Class design to the Lexus LS430 and have even toyed with the cheap W220 models for sale. Fabulous interiors and reliable Engines, just electric Gremlins and Suspension anxiety. Think I'm over it now and will probably / possibly stick to the Mk2 LS400 which (imo) was never bettered design wise. No offence meant to other preferred models. Now is not the time to waste money when I can't even drive a Car anywhere and am a fully paid up member of the "at risk" category - so I keep telling myself. But - will I listen?

Enjoyed both 500SEC and 500SEL W126 series. Had more trouble mechanically with the Lexus after leaving the W126 and W140 series. Merc Electrics can be problem and wouldn't personally go for the straight six 300 but only the V8 420, 500, or 560. However prices are now very high for those models. Lovely Car to drive and effortless. Better Seats and more space and height than the LS400. Fewer around maybe tells a story. Loom and relay failures, but spares cost far less than Japanese. Timing Chains on larger engines

Steve, nice write up. I might be tempted to buy this kit. Fact is, I would only find it useful to be able to unlock the Car at a distance ( at present two foot is about the didstance and even then you have to point it correctly to the rear or it just doens't open. Perhaps automatically opening the boot would be a lazy b*gger / look at me, improvement that I'd enjoy. I think that your passenger door not opening when the ignition is switched off is a fault on your car, only? My only other annoying fault is that the Boot when opened by key when the Car has not been disabled by the keyfob, sometimes the Alarm goes off. It doesn't happen all the time, but must be a fault somewhere? Would the Hawk "click to open" system, bypass this problem occuring? Oh, and the flashing corner lights when locking/unlocking, are they legal? Is it only bleeps that are illegal. My Car doesn't flash the lights. Volume controlled bleep as a member on here instructed me how to set.

This part

I don't think the Mk2 does open when the engine is running, as I was asked to open the Boot going through Calais Customs and had to switch off the engine.

Pete, if you can lift that Battery out to charge then you are back to full strength. Don't want a Hernia next do you? Suggest apply Battery charger to battery in situ!

Yes, I've found the Car costly to maintain though reliable.

Aside - sorted. Right clicked after typing above two words and unticked "check spelling". Hopefully won't arise each time I make a contribution. Did go into Word program to see if it could be corrected from there and changes made, but seemed not to work? Baffled.!

The thing with the Fogs on the Mk1 and 2 being lower down, in more childish moments you can put them on with S&T's and feel like Nightrider. Had them on my Toyota Mk 3 Supra which certainly looked more like the Hoffs Car ! As for actual benefit, I've found on back roads in France that the Fogs do absolutely nothing to help see ahead. If anything they make matters worse! Aside (still getting every correctly spelt word appearing with a red zig zag underline - think it may have something to do with Google - but what?) Fortunately it disappears when clicked on "Enter"

Whereas I enjoyed the old W140 S class with its Emblem,I'm now happy to have a rarer (?) Classic Lexus. I checked up the Silver Aston Martin driven by Bond the other day (time on my hands?) Last MOT'd 2017. Perhaps it doesn't now need an MOT on reflection.

Might give that kit a try, one day. Not happy my Seat has collapsed even after only 140k miles. Would prefer if it looked more like a Rover 75 seat at this stage in its life. Not made for the heavier person, just the lighter Japanese,😀 presumably.(Excluding Sumo Wrestlers!) 😀

So you can't be arsed! as the expression goes!

Heartfelt condolences to those who have lost loved ones and wishing a speedy recovery to those who have become infected with this terrible Virus. To all others - stay safe.

Surprised Adrian Flux has not chipped in to this thread? Those BRIS Comp. quotes hovered around the £200-£250 range including breakdown cover. Would be happy with paying a bit more but not current renewal quote which is more than £100 above last year by Saga. Will try AF online and see, rather than go via the money saving websites

Got half a dozen or more quotes better than what has been offered to me as a renewal. Then I thought, I'd delve a bit further into the seemingly behind all quotes, BISL Ltd. Didn't like what I read. Also don't wish to pay giving them authorisation to "automatically renew" which seemed to be the case in each quote. New search me thinks. https://www.fairerfinance.com/insights/blog/whose-customer-are-you-anyway