harrylime

Plus one for Lextech

It's the arrow that's the indicator, not the nozzle, but many people don't know this

On 7/5/2017 at 9:30 AM, Cotswold Pete said:

Filling an LS is a chance to observe the people who have no idea how to park near a pump, cannot remember which side their filler is on, and those who know where the filler is but have not worked out that the pump line can stretch across the boot, and those desperate to make sure they only put a fivers worth of fuel in as that is all they have (been there myself a few times).

Life in the LS, fast on the road, slow at the pump, just the way it should be.

Many people aren't aware that the fuel pump icon in their fuel gauge tells them which side the fuel filler is on. I believe this is a feature on every production car.

My first thought, if I were to drive to the South of France, I would take my LS 400 instead of any Range Rover, because of reliability.

Not an LS, but the same technique, I would have thought -

I had this seal replaced by Lexus Sheffield, due to a minor leak. No problems since, but it took quite a bit longer than they expected.

my classic car insurance with rh specialist insurance covers European travel, couple of hundred quid

On ‎03‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 11:22 AM, ambermarine said:

John

Favourite Kareoke number "Pancho & Lefty" Willie Nelson & Merle Haggard.

I like that version, but prefer the Willie Nelson/Bob Dylan version, suits Bob's voice, I think

has anyone tried the glass of water on the engine? I did with mine a couple of years ago. Impressive, not a ripple to be seen

I haven't rung the dealer yet, but does anyone know where I can source the thin chrome trim on the rear bumper of a 99 LS 400 please?

It probably looks more impressive in the flesh. I think the grill is over the top, possibly inspired by the vegetable choppers and chippers sold on price drop TV

I intended to add, is it possible to pay for gap insurance, just as people do with new cars, to cover any shortfall? 

Definitely no savings on third party cover as there used to be . My car is insured on a classic car policy, and being "specialist" classic car insurers, perhaps a settlement that is nearer the true value of the car might be achieved (other than agreed value policies, in which case it should be a given), I also wonder whether they would be more flexible, and more open to an owner buying the car back. Limited mileage classic policies make sense for many owners, but as I understand it you must have another car on a a "mainstream" policy

I changed mine due to a sudden, unexpected increase in fuel consumption. Much improved after back to what I would expect

After a terrifying journey many years ago in my Mercedes, I'll never drive an automatic with big fat tyres in the snow again. Luckily my Octavia has its Continental winter tyres on and my wife's Panda has Goodyear 4 Seasons tyres, so the Lexus stays at home

It definitely has presence, but to my taste looks as if the designer was trying much too hard. Interesting that someone mentioned Kia and Hyundai because I've always felt the same about their cars, almost a case of being "over designed" if that makes sense.The best looking cars, in my view, give the impression of effortless design.I still prefer the X350 xj jag to the more modern design, although it is growing on me, I prefer the Mk 2 Jag to the E type, as it's better proportioned. If I could afford one I would buy a Lancia Aurelia B20, which are simply beautiful pieces of automotive art. These cars exude understated elegance, but perhaps my tastes are old fashioned. Judging by the value of Lancia Aurelia B20s now, I think I am not alone. I think a modern version would sell like hot cakes, especially if the urge to add the latest in technology  was resisted.Some modern cars are technically brilliant but are destined, I think, for a short lifespan as second and third owners etc. are unable to afford astronomical repair costs for complex electronic systems that are destined to fail. I, for one, would sacrifice many totally unnecessary gizmos that many of us seem unable to live without, and would much prefer the money to be spent on more sound insulation, more thorough research and development into noise, vibration and harshness, ride/handling etc.  

I had the same thought initially, but took the less selfish view that other Lexus owners might also prefer to use an indie than pay through the nose at main dealers, especially as the skill and knowledge levels are at least on a par with the main dealer. I also take the less unselfish, but more pragmatic view that pointing new customers towards the indie is doing him a favour, it may help to keep him in business (although he seems to be doing fine), and he may be more likely to stick with the Lexus speciality. He does work on other cars of all kinds, but as far as I'm aware, he likes working on Lexuses / Lexii (not sure what the plural is, According to Alan Partridge , it's Lexii). Not worried about being in a queue, as he seems to look after his regular customers.

Funnily enough, I thought my last bill was lower than it should have been for the time taken, so I may add a bit next time. Not something that ever crossed my mind whilst using the main dealer. I still have a soft spot for Mercs, but I favour the W124 E Class, most of which which seem to have suffered from corrosion now.

8 hours ago, Cotswold Pete said:

Read this link, discs do not warp even cheap nasty ones.  Vibration is caused by uneven deposits or something loose.

I suspect you could warp a disc by getting it red hot and  then banging it with a ruddy great hammer (but I usually have better  things to do when I am waiting at traffic lights)

The myth of warping

Having seen the thickness and weight of the new discs, that actually makes sense. It would take an incredible level of heat and or force to warp them, I would think. My old discs has some wear and there was a fair bit of corrosion, so worth doing. I couldn't see any obvious sign of material transferred to the surfaces

I once had the idea of eliminating depreciation by changing my car every five or six months, buying at auction, then selling privately (this is a long time ago). It worked well for three years or so, after which I had lost nothing in depreciation, and possibly made a very small profit.As I recall, I packed it in because the fees for private buyers were getting silly, probably to put off private buyers and look after traders.

I attended different car auctions, which clearly cater for different markets. Cheap cars  go through because the cars are not fit to sell anywhere else. The cars that go through from lease companies etc can be good buys because the owners/drivers do not want to be penalised so tend to look after their cars for the lease period (they may have been driven hard, but that applies to any used car).

Your legal rights are better than buying privately ,which perversely is my favoured method of buying a car, because it can provide a lot of information about previous use. However, buying privately is also getting very difficult. Most people part exchange their cars because it is easier. many of those who used to try and get a better price (not difficult given dealers' greed), now sell to places like Webuyanycar. Of over 407 RX450h currently for sale on Autotrader, only 14 are private sales. Take away high  mileage cars, the private sellers whose asking price is as high as main dealers, and you are left with a few that may or may not be within a few hours' drive, and may be over described when you get there. Dealers have it made now.

Unless auctions have changed, for all but the cheapest cars, you may get an hour after you have paid to drive and to find any major faults - this may have changed!. I would suggest going a few times to get a feel for it, know the conditions of sale for any given auction, listen carefully to the description, find out before about service history etc.,try to get there early and see the cars you're interested in outside in daylight to check paintwork etc. You probably will not have access to whatever book dealers use nowadays, so have a good idea what any given car is selling for. If you are targeting specific models, take notes on values for different years/models.Finally, do not get carried away and pay too much, bidding for a cars is exciting !

I want to give a big thumbs up for my Lexus trained indie (having worked for Lexus for 20 years), based near junction 31 of the M1 near Sheffield. I have taken my LS 400 to Dave at Lex TeK Autos a few times over the past few months, and never fail to be impressed by his enthusiasm, encyclopaedic knowledge and outstanding value for money. It is nice to be able to take my Lexus to someone and have total confidence, without having to take out a mortgage afterwards. There is no fancy showroom, but there is a waiting area with wifi, and coffee is offered. . I wish I had found him sooner. I have no personal connections with Dave and know him only through work done on my car

I agree

I watched my indie replacing my discs this morning and he was scrupulous about cleaning everything. He is clearly more than aware because he was explaining to his apprentice why it is so important, outlining the reasons you have given. 

I decided on original front discs and pads from Lexus. I managed to get a good deal and there wasn't that much in it. The more I read about this the more confusing I became. If there had been a huge difference in price, I'd have gone for Pagid, and will probably use these on the rear as they do less work. On such a heavy car I wanted the best available and hopefully the longevity will recoup any additional cost. I may also try to alter my driving habits and not hold the car on the footbrake so much when stopped. This has always been the natural way to drive an automatic car to me, but some have said that this may contribute to the discs warping. I may now use the handbrake more than I have before, which should also help maintain free movement in the handbrake mechanism. While it's in I'm also having the brake fluid changed and all calipers checked for free movement of the pistons etc. 

I'm also having a couple of lower suspension bushes changed

Having read somewhere on the forum about someone's auxiliary belt snapping I checked mine. I've no doubt it's been on since new but it looked OK, although perhaps a little perished, with minute crazing /cracking. I think 17 years is enough so am having that changed as well. Expensive week but having driven my Octavia diesel for a while and then driven the Lexus through the rush hour to my Indie this morning, it reiterates why it's money well spent. It's only when you'v driven something mediocre for a while and get back in the Lexus that you appreciate what the LS is all about and why we rave about them.

I need new front discs and pads on my 400. I fitted new pagid pads less than 1000 miles ago and now need new discs and new pads. I'm pretty sure this was caused by a single episode of hard braking on the motorway, when someone kindly cut me up.. I have priced discs and pads from a dealer, who is trying hard to compete and has given trade price at £170 for the lot. My indie can get pagid for around £100. I have other jobs to do including suspension bushes, and  I may change the auxiliary belt, so could use the saving with pagid. My indie reckons he's never had a problem with Pagid and I trust his judgement,but the usual internet search gives conflicting views.

Eurocarparts have the sole rights to Pagid, and they will not say where they are made.I have heard that the ECP Pagid parts are made in China. The 400 is a big heavy car and I want the best available. I'm struggling to find out the excat spec of both oem and pagid, including where they are made (I thought products must have country of origin marked somewhere)

Is it worth the extra to fit OEM, Toyota stamped stuff? I would hate to pay the extra to find they are made in the same factory as Pagid

I'm paranoid about doing this and have come close a few times.