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harrylime

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Posts posted by harrylime

  1. Static caravans are a rip off, expensive site fees, very restrictive practices by site owners, as described by another poster, difficult to sell without incurring a lot of charges etc. If I were to return to caravanning, I would buy a large tourer and place it on a seasonal pitch. it is a compromise, as you have less room of course, but if you get fed up of a site or an area, simply move it to another for the following season.

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  2. Well, all done at Lexus Sheffield. They quoted between 1 and 1.5 hours. It took over two hours, a couple of bolts on the exhaust had to be ground off and replaced to enable access for the sump lid, but they charged me 1.5 hours, which was fair. Cost around £175 including a couple of litres of oil. I would have had to buy a 5 litre tin for local indie to do it at a cost of £48. I reckon the indie cost would have been around £130 including the oil. The additional cost is worth it for peace of mind in my view, the job being done by people who really know what they are doing. They also did a thorough visual check and confirmed no leakage of power steering fluid anywhere.

    Feel a lot happier now. I don't know whether it's just me but I feel out of sorts and grumpy when something is wrong with my car and I can't drive it.

    Next jobs - new air filter in the morning, air con regas in the next week or two, hopefully, and new bonnet struts when I can source some.

  3. Hi all

    I thought about it overnight and do not have enough faith in my local Indie, so am taking it to the Lexus dealer this afternoon. Toyota / Lexus use a specific sealant for this job, I was also worried about grit and crap off the engine getting into the gearbox. It's a simple job, but the money saved going local is not worth the anxiety. I absolutely love this car and do not want complications later. Although a simple job, a bit of carelessness could cause me major problems, with more chance of any redress from the main dealer, who are likely to be more careful in the first place. The advice on here about oils, sealants and cleanliness have been invaluable and I thank you all for your input. If I had access to a pit, I would have been happy to do it myself,

  4. LS 400 - I have a leak from my gearbox gasket. Apparently, there is no gasket as such, it is a silicone type sealant that is used, which is a new one on me. The indie uses Tiger Seal. Can anyone advise which oil should be used, and how much I will need (I'm supplying the oil) is it Dexron 3 or Toyota oil?. I found some old threads that suggested about 2 litres will come out when it is drained? The oil on the dipstick looks nice and clean and red, so I'm happy just to replace what comes out.

    When I had my Audi 90, I knew every nut and bolt on the car and all the specs. I now have to learn about the LS 400 from scratch. I have a feeling it will be worth it, with some help and advice from you more experienced guys. The blokes at the garage were all over the car, I don't think they'd seen one before

  5. As if we didn't have enough to worry about. I did a search for Mikao air filters and found some websites that mention auto parts being imported from Japan, having been tested and found to be radioactive. One website stated " auto air filters from Fukushima, that he tested in his Massachusetts laboratory, are so radioactive that they have to be disposed of in a buried radioactive waste disposal site in the US."

    The website can be found here - http://enenews.com/my-university-is-annoyed-with-me-air-filter-from-japan-so-radioactive-it-must-be-buried-at-radioactive-waste-disposal-site-in-us-video

    I have ordered a Crosland filter from ECP

  6. I would not expect any noticeable problems to be honest. However, I am obsessed with quality where it matters (hence my driving an LS 400) and an air filter is one of those things where a £4 filter off eBay will look more or less the same as a £27 one from Lexus. Both will work, but a lot of design and engineering goes into filters. As a shiny young fireman I learned that the total area of the holes in a pump filter is at least equal to the cross sectional area of the pump inlet, and then you have to take into account frictional loss, partial blockages and other factors. Presumably, the same level of design and engineering goes into air filters, if efficient flow (and hence power and economy), is to be achieved and maintained.

    I am getting very wordy her, but I'm trying to explain why I am more fussy about oil and air filters than, for example pollen filters. I would be happy with a Crossland filter, as I remember them from my time as an engineering apprenticeship, they have a long heritage. I haven't heard of the Mikao filters being sold. I think the main dealer's £27 is a bit strong though

  7. My wife spotted some stains on my drive where my 400 had been parked. Playing a water jet on it, it does appear to be poil of some sort. I immediately thought of the power steering pump as a likely source. I checked the fluid level and it may be a bit low,it'.s up to the shoulder on the dipstick (first time checked since I bought the car)

    I took the plastic trims from the engine bay near the rad to have a better look and cannot see any evidence of a leak. The bottom of the fluid reservoir is dry. I can't get my hand under the pump to check for wetness.The u shaped pipe at the front of the radiator looks corroded and needs replacing, but seems dry. Is this part available?

    I plan to take it to my local garage to check underneath having removed the undertray, although I'm reluctant to drive it in case of damage to the alternator I'd appreciate ant tips or ideas.

    Also, can anyone please recommend a suitable power steering fluid ? there is a type stamped on the reservoir lid, but I'm not familiar with it.

    Thank you in advance

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