mrr1

mixture of motorways, town work, b roads. Occasional foot down blasts (usually incited by d!@£heads in bmws).

this I like.. so, here are my needs; 1 reliable 2 exciting / rewarding to drive 3 very economical 4 8 grand or less basically, I can only have a max of three at a time... oops, sorry, forgot one 5 must not be a bmw

agree totally. A few years back when diesel was approx 10% more expensive than diesel a 250 would cost the same pence per mile as the 220..... If I were to get a diesel it would have to be the 200d. But then I'd miss the grunt of the 220. Just wish I could make my damn mind up.

I've heard the same from other 250 owners... To be honest, though, it's he mpg I'm chasing. My old 93 saab has done 112k, had a wheel bearing replaced and and a front spring that snapped, needs a new ac pump and also a new pcv valve. She's got 240 something bhp, pulls 0-60 under 8 secs very easy and has, as I've already mentioned, the best seats I've ever come across. For a ragtop she'll happily seat 4 decent sized adults and, if I'm very gentle, return mid thirties mpg (not too bad for an auto). Alas work demands mean I need some thing that will return 50+ mpg and not sting me with huge repair bills...... Maybe a ten year old micra. ......?

whats the difference between the 200D and the 220D? Aren't they both 2.2L ?

dual mass flywheel issues............usually around the £1200 mark (& seemingly quite common) Part of me wants to trust Lexus again but I'm not quite sure...........yet. Has anyone heard of post 2009 220D's failing?

Hi - I used to have a 220D up till early 2015 when I moved to a Saab 9-3 Aero ragtop. (Much quicker, much better seats and the perfect sunroof.....) Anyway, during my 220 ownership I experienced the dreaded HG issue but, thankfully, Lexus Leicester came to the rescue with a new short block all shiny and FOC. (and, no, I didn't buy the car from Lexus or have a Lexus FSH - just evidence from my local garage that I had regular oil changes). Whllst I love my 9-3 I'm looking to move back to a 220D as I may be back on the road & doing high mileages. Question: did Lexus ever address the diesel HG issue or are there 220's failing right up til the end of that models life?

Just to add my egr was dirty but not blocked but then throw in other variables such as cheap supermarket diesel and so on it starts to get difficult to blame any one thing for the ultimate system failure. When you start to add up what you actually need to "properly maintain" a 220 (low ash oil, low whatever diesel, regular egr cleans etc, etc, etc) combined with frankly not great mpg it's quite easy to turn back to petrol....... (although they did give me a free engine thanks very much)

@dreamer - thanks, good stuff. When vehicles are designed in the first instance there will be DFMEAs highlighting that dpf blockages WILL occur when a certain variety of conditions occur. In the designers world the "system" looks after itself. However the cost of making the system fully self cleansing would be too high, especially if the failure mode happens outside of the warranty period. I've got a Saab that diagnoses oil condition and tells me how far I am off an oil change. It's got loads of other clever touches as well. They went out of business cos they weren't making enough money. Its understandable why people want a nice simple routine to follow to avoid what could easily turn into a horror story. I think the general theme is "get the damn thing hot for a while every so often and then one day when the system is ready you may just blow the muck out". As an engineer in the auto industry (honestly) the lengths that auto companies go to in order to highlight and address potential failure modes would blow people's minds. However with five or six thousand components working together at the same time in widely varying conditions some failure modes WILL get through. This dpf issue is just one of them.

Matus this thread is full of people whose cars are going into limp home mode. Therefore the system DOES NOT ALWAYS LOOK AFTER ITSELF WHEN THE BLOCKAGE % IS HIGH. Period. They are asking for ways to help force a regen. People do not know when a regen is needed. They just want to know that IF one is needed they can do SOMETHING ON A REGULAR BASIS THAT MAY JUST FORCE A REGEN AND SAVE THEM A LOAD OF HASSLE. Re-read the damn thread if you don't believe me. I covered about 60 000.miles in my 220 in conditions covering the ones that you are indicating are "the holy grail". A huge amount of that 60k were spent at 2000rpm for 30mins or longer.Guess what? My dpf blocked. It got physically cleaned with a £100 jet wash and has done 40k since with no issues. Once a month I drop it into fourth at seventy(ish) and leave the cruise on. One line of advice appears to be to connect to a laptop to force a regen which 99% of us cannot do. The alternative is to force a regen by some other means. The question that is being asked repeatedly is "HOW DO I DO THAT?" Your pompous arrogant and frankly rude responses betray either the fact that you are not listening or that you cannot hear. Numerous people on here (and elsewhere) are saying go for a spin at 2500 rpm and above for 20 to 30 mins. Me included. Don't bother asking for an apology, you don't deserve one. Who the hell do you think you are?

I did around 60k on motorways at 70ish and ended up in limp home mode.......... As has been said above if you don't have access to OBDs etc (eg 99% of us) a hefty toodle at decentish revs for a decent while should do the trick. 70 in fifth is about 2000 rpm (ish ?) meaning the dpf won't get hot enough. hence my earlier rudely responded to line about a motorway blast at 3000 rpm. If the Lexus guy above says 2500 then take that as the number. 2500 rpm in fourth equals about motorway speed so there you go.

cgorner - ooooof! My advice would be to phone the nearest Lexus dealership and see what their workshop manager says. However as you shouldn't follow internet advice this infers that you should NOT phone them. Actually if the advice (on the internet) is that you SHOULDN'T follow what you read on the internet does this mean that, actually, you SHOULD.......? Damn, I'm confused. The more this thread goes on the lower the engine temps and lower the required revs seem to become. Basically provided the pipes aren't frozen and you can get the car to the end of your drive you should be ok..........

Do you have any idea how ironic your statement is? Are you actually trying to be pompous or is it just a natural trait? Try any harder and you'd be better off in a BMW. For your information my advice came from Lexus Leicester. "2500 - 3000 rpm for a good half hour at full temp will pretty much guarantee a regen. When we do forced regens in the 'shop it can sometimes take a good hour or so to hit the temps needed - 60 degrees engine temp is barely warmed up." Hence it is YOUR advice that appears to be incorrect. However, as you say "it is very dumb to accept everything said on the internet as true" therefore I shall respectfully ignore your advice. Hope you don't mind, I corrected your grammar although no doubt your grammar will be more correctest than mine.

Nice attitude. Please accept my deepest most humble apologies for daring to repeat what I've been told by others..... Obviously from this point on I will pass any of my opinions to you first for prior approval. By the way, that was a great impression you did there of an eight year old arguing with a sibling.. Let me guess, you're either short bald and not getting enough or English is your second language?

Gents, is it a big job to remove and clean the inlet manifold? Also, whilst I understand what an egr is and how to clean it does the 220 have an "egr cooler" and could they leak engine coolant into the exhaust system?