Colin M

Sorry to hear this news about Jon and I hope things work out ok for you both. Thoughts are with you at this difficult time.

As regards treating the underbody, yes, David, it can be done but it is a time-consuming and messy job - I have done it on both my LS400s. The hardest bit is the rear sub-frame due to limited access - there are lots of suspension links in the way, as well as limited access at the top due to the sub-frame being close to the body. I removed as much rust as I could, some of it loose and some of it not so loose, before treating. There is not really much access for power tools like angle grinders and I used a range of hand tools. The not so loose rust was removed with a hammer and chisel and with the pointed end of a hammer (it was an old hammer for chipping slag off welds done with an arc welder and had a V shaped point at each end, a vertical point at one end and a horizontal one at the other end). Other tools used included coarse files, coarse sandpaper and wire brushes of various sizes. Once I had removed as much rust as I could, I then gave everywhere a good rub over with prep-paint wipe to remove any grease. You can buy pre-paint wipe from paint factors. It is not particularly expensive (I bought 5 litres for about £10 a few years ago) and it is better than white spirit as it evaporates much quicker. I painted some of the more accessible areas with a coat of black Rustbuster Epoxy Mastic (a two pack steel renovation paint) and later followed this with a coat of black Hammerite. I used Waxoyl on the less accessible areas. I have posted up a couple of photos of one car which I took when it was on the ramp at its MOT. If you are wondering what the blue pipe is coming out of the spare wheel well, it is the pipe to the LPG tank.

As regards obtaining a small quantity of cellulose thinners, you could try a local body repair shop or a classic car restoration business. They may be willing to sell you a small quantity. Paint factors are unlikely to sell it in quantities of less than 5 litres. Motor factors may still sell small quantities, although I guess there is much less demand for cellulose thinners now than there used to be, so they may not stock it. it might be worth having a look online to see if Halfords stock any. Sorry to hear about the damage - very annoying.

That's very impressive. I might buy a Lexus/Toyota one next time. The most I have had out of a battery is about 8-9 years on my wife's Merc 500 SL. It was a Samson Unipart 4 year guarantee battery, which I replaced last year with a Varta battery, so I was well pleased with how long it lasted.

I have Varta E23 batteries on both of my LS400s and have been very pleased with them. I bought mine online at Tayna Batteries - good price (and willing to match a cheaper price which I saw when buying the second battery), great service and quick delivery.

Agree with Phil and Steve's comments - probably nothing to worry about. Water and steam come out of the tailpipes on my cars until the exhaust system warms up - I think the time to worry is if water is coming out of the tailpipes when the system is hot, as then it is likely to be a head gasket problem.

This does not seem to be a question to which an easy answer can be given. You might find the article below helpful. I found it by googling does my car have hard or soft paint - the link below was an early one that came up: Hard Paint and Soft Paint – What are your polishing choices? | Ask a ... www.detailedimage.com › Ask-a-Pro › h... Hope this helps.

I have just logged in after reading this thread and, like Mike, I have not had any security warning.

Good luck, John, with whatever you decide to do. I hope you find something good as a replacement for your LS400 and, who knows, another LS400 may come your way in due course. All the best. Colin

Really sorry to hear this news, John, it is gutting when something like this happens. I hope the damage is confined to the rear quarter panel. If the boot floor + rear chassis section are OK, it might well be repairable. Thank goodness there was no-one in the car at the time.

I had my oil filters from Lexus Birmingham. I have had a few bits off them purchased online via their eBay shop - never had any problem and they are quick on delivery.

I always use OEM filters as well and 5W-30 oil but semi-synthetic rather than synthetic. I use Millers Trident oil as it meets the A3/B3 specification in the LS400 Owners Handbook. There are two reasons why I use semi-synthetic. One is that both cars had semi-synthetic oil in when I bought them, the cars seemed to run fine with that oil in them and I have just carried on using the same type. The other is that I change the oil annually but do a relatively low mileage (about 3000-4000 in each car), so it is cheaper to use semi-synthetic. In fact, I have never had a car in which I have used synthetic oil, in the main because I have always had older cars! But I am sure synthetic is fine as I know a lot of people on here use it.

Yes, Steve, I do have the wood grain at right angles. Given that the wood blocks are not difficult to make, I would make a second block and try it with your mini trolley jack. The small bits on the top of the saddle should dig into the wood enough so that the wood rests all around the edge on the top of the saddle. This should be sufficient for jacking purposes. I have used a large block of wood on top of a relatively small saddle before and have jacked up a large car (my Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire) without any problems.

If Allan is going down the route of using a wooden block, here is some info on approximate measurements and some pictures of the one I use. The block wood is 3 and five-eighths inches x 2 and three quarter inches. The cut out in the top section is about 1 inch deep and 1 inch wide. The cut out is not centrally placed - there is a longer section on the top on the right hand side (1 and three-eighths of an inch) and a shorter section on the top on the left hand side (three-quarters of an inch). The left hand side is also cut away at an angle at the end. The longer section goes behind the sill and the shorter section in front of it. The purpose of the cut away is to stop the edge of the wood from catching on the sill. Hope this helps. The photos are a bit on the large side but if you click on them they open up so that you can see the whole picture.

I use the jacking points on the back of the sills where the scissor jack that comes with the car goes. I use a thick block of wood on my trolley jack and the block has a section cut out on the top deep enough for the sill and sill cover flange to fit in. This allows wood either side of the flanges to take the weight when lifting, in much the same way as the metal on the scissor jack does. I normally only want to jack up one side at a time and have found this a lot easier than using the jack on the differential. I can post a picture of the block of wood if that will be helpful, along with the dimensions, although these will depend in part on what size the jack saddle is.

I would have a new pump fitted if I was in your position. It has obviously been a very good car for you, otherwise you would not have kept it for 12 years. Yes, other issues may arise but they may also arise with whatever car you buy as a replacement. I hope I get 12 years faultless service out of both of mine!!

Yes, well done indeed and pleased to hear that you got the refund.

Yes, I can recommend KYB springs as well - I bought one to replace a broken spring on the OSF of one of my cars and it has been fine. I have not noticed any difference in ride etc since replacing it.

If there is a castle nut, I think the purpose of the split pin is to prevent the nut working loose. A nyloc nut (a nut with a plastic insert which grips the thread) or a spring washer under the nut are alternatives to prevent a nut working loose. One way of stopping a ball joint moving when trying to undo the nut is to place a trolley jack (or even a scissor jack) underneath the ball joint and jack it up a bit. This makes it harder for the ball joint to rotate. If access is limited, a block of wood on the jack will have the same effect.

I have had a look back over the paperwork for when I bought the strut and progress/cost was as follows: Price of strut rod (part no 48780-50020) £27.87 and delivery £19.89, making a total of £47.76. Order date was 3/12/2014 and I paid by PayPal. No customs duty was paid but Import VAT was £8.80 and there was a Clearance Fee (zero rated for VAT purposes) of £13.50, making a total of £22.30. I think from memory the Clearance Fee is a flat rate sum and this covers clearing customs and delivery of the item. This made an overall total of £70.06 (£47.76 + £22.30). Invoice date from Customs was 23/12/2014. Payment online was recommended for delivery as soon as possible. I paid online on 27/12/2014 and the part was delivered on 31/12/2014. I should say that it took longer for the part to clear Customs than it did for the part to arrive in this country from Japan!! The part was a genuine one. There was a Toyota Genuine Parts sticker on the part, with the part no and Toyota Motor Corporation, Made in Japan on it, which I have removed and kept.

You could try Amayama Trading in Japan. They stock genuine Lexus parts. I have had a quick look on their website and a 1989-94 rear upper control arm is about £133. It might take a while for the part to arrive, you will have add postage cost on and import duty when the item comes into the country, but it should still work out significantly cheaper than the price you have been quoted. I have only used Amayama once, for a rear strut rod for my Mk3 which came out about £80 all in. That was about half the main dealer price. I was pleased with the service they provided. Hope this helps.

Probably a good chance it is a weak battery problem. Just had the same symptoms (click, click) on my wife's car, replaced the battery and the engine starts fine now with no click, click. Let's hope that's what it is, so you do not have to replace the starter motor.

Good decision, Rudy - why have only one LS400 when you can have two?

Hi Mike Sorry to hear you have had no success contacting Kyle - it has been about 18 months since I last had anything off him so maybe he has dropped off the radar. Pleased to hear you have managed to locate a part and hope it works ok. Let us know whether it does. Thanks.

Yes, good luck, Phil. My son has a V70 Volvo, which has proved very reliable and it is nice to drive. All the best Colin