ChumpusRex

Honestly now, I can't remember. I'm pretty sure I just drained the radiator, and it must of siphoned out - but I did park the car pointing downhill so maybe that helped. I may have undone the thermostat hose as well, but I certainly didn't take the thermostat off. I did spend ages looking for the block drains but couldn't find them, even with an inspection mirror.

I didn't bother with the engine block drains. I just drained the radiator *****, and got about 8 litres out, which for a 9.1 litre system, I though was acceptable. As for the coolant, the OEM coolant is very expensive, but there is no equivalent available on the market. That said, I don't think there's that much harm in a generic coolant like a G30, which is likely going to be fine. However, it is worth remembering that Japanese manufacturers all use the same formula these days, and it is totally different from anything designed for European or American cars. You can often find "Mazda FL22" coolant available for pennies, it's the same formulation that toyota use from the same OEM (CCI), but dyed green. The coolant provides 3 functions: cooling (provided by the water in the coolant), protection against freezing (provided by ethylene glycol), protection against corrosion and water pump erosion (provided by the inhibitors). Water and ethylene glycol are the same in all coolants. Japanese OEMs use phosphate inhibitor because of enhanced protection of the water pump from erosion. The phosphate is boosted with organic acids. For environmental reasons, European OEMs use phosphate free, pure organic acid inhibitors.

Oh it's a cracking car. I'm getting a big downgrade on the toy front with the new car (but a big upgrade on the turbocharger front - audi S3) But I guess the lexus is not very well known. People see a big petrol engine, and a luxury marque and run away. It's got a couple of problems which to me at least, aren't worth fixing. It's also one of the oldest ISs in the country and has a very high mileage (160k). I suppose at that point, it's bangernomics, and maybe the people that buy a megamiles car want one with easy to obtain parts.

My IS250 has been sold and is going tomorrow. It's been a cracking car, but I am slightly surprised at how difficult it was to sell, and also that it has turned out to be near worthless, despite all the toys like air conditioned seats, etc.

These look like a new product line, just released. However, they look identical to the OEM plugs. The OEM plugs use dual iridium electrodes, which denso did not offer in their "aftermarket" range of spark plugs. I'm guessing that denso have just released their dual iridium electrode technology for use in their aftermarket products.

How would you wire them in? The ballast is integral to the sealed unit and is not easily replaceable.

Any D4S bulb is suitable. Lexus OEM bulb is Toshiba 4300K. Other good quality bulbs are Philips and Osram. I have Philips and they have been fine.

Had it when the bulb was at end of life. Replacing the bulb solved the problem.

The light does not need resetting. It goes out instantly as soon as the fault is fixed. If the alternator is charging correctly, then it sounds as if the problem is with the wire that connects the alternator to the light (or that the alternator isn't compatible, or has an internal fault which causes it to send the wrong diagnostic signal). On the IS220, the alternator the light is controlled by the blue/black wire from the alternator which runs to the dash. If this wire isn't connected, then the light will come on, or if the alternator is putting the wrong voltage on this wire, then the light will come on. It should be fairly straight forward for an auto electrician to check if the alternator is putting the correct 12 V signal on this wire. On the IS250, the alternator communicates with the ECU directly, and the ECU communicates digitally with the dash via CANbus. In this case, there is a red wire running from the alternator to the ECU which carries the "alternator working correctly" signal.

I couldn't have said it better than Steve has already done so. The IS220d engine is notorious for problems with "head gasket" failure, but due to the specific nature of the problem, the damage is often more extensive than just the gasket - there are plenty of people on the forums who have needed new engines or new cylinder heads because the head or block itself was damaged. Here's a search on this forum about this issue: I'm afraid, there is a lot of reading material. https://www.google.co.uk/#q=is220d%20head%20gasket%20warranty%20site%3Awww.lexusownersclub.co.uk

Check VSC means that there is a malfunction in the engine, car electronics, gearbox, brakes traction control or VSC system. You need an OBD 2 code reader to take things further.

I spliced into the wires to the ciggy lighter. Pulled the ash tray segment of the console out, soldered some splices in and put a locking electrical connector in behind the radio. The dash cam had it's connector cut off and a new one attached. The wire was then threaded behind the dash and radio and connected to my new power connector.

You need to get the codes read by someone with a techstream scan tool. There is a minor design fault on the IS which causes the connector to come loose on the driver knee air bag but this is only one of many air bags and sensors so best scanning first to find the location of the fault, otherwise you'll be stripping the whole car.

Bad luck on that. Sounds like an electrical problem if everything mechanical has been changed. I'd guess the high pressure pump is not getting the correct signal from the ECU to raise pressure. Think ECU fault or wiring problem between ECU and pump. You should ask whether this problem has been investigated.

The lexus petrol engine in the IS250 seems pretty good. Mine has 155k now, and it runs silky smooth, burns virtually no oil and has no real problems. (The only problem I've had was an expensive catalyst replacement, but was I now suspect that was an incorrect diagnosis, and may not have been required - just had bad luck in getting a faulty replacement sensor).

Nope. The photos have the number plate. So I just looked up the MOT certificate.

Looked up its last MOT certificate.

This car has well over 130k miles, so it's quite well used. A bit cheeky quoting 100k on the advert though.

Lexus do not install bulb error detection (except on indicators).

Found the same car on gumtree. Photos show it is clearly an IS250 - although it has been debadged. It has the IS250 bumper with dual exhaust cutouts, IS250 instrument cluster (which is different to the IS220d) and IS250 air conditioning (again different from the IS220d). I'm guessing that the dealer put the wrong model number on the V5 when registering it with DVLA. My IS250 has the wrong trim level on the V5 which always causes huge problems with insurance as they keep putting the wrong trim on the policy, and I keep trying to tell them it is wrong, but they won't accept it.

Glad you got it fixed. I'd never had guessed immobiliser, though. Indeed, according to the service manual, the immobiliser, deactivates the starter and start button, and sets a fault code saying that the ECU has been immobilised.

The OEM heaters are visible. Aftermarket screens may have invisible heaters.

Had this on my mum's. Oil was exactly on the line on the dipstick. Took it to the dealer and they said to ignore it and reset the message. I think it was some sort of service reminder.

The price for the OEM parts is very high. You may find it much cheaper to find a manufacturer who can custom make exhaust systems make one to fit.

Getting tyres online means that you get the brand you wanted fitted when you want them fitted. Otherwise it can be hit and miss turning up at a tyre place and seeing what they have in stock (especially as the IS250 takes a relatively uncommon size). Of course, you could always order them from your local supplier, but it's a lot easier to compare prices online, and they are rarely significantly more expensive getting them online (and often cheaper). I've always liked Michelin Pilot Sport 3 or Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2. Both are fine. I'm doing more miles now, so I've gone for the cheaper and longer lasting Barum Bravuris 3 HM, which are still acceptably grippy. I've got Barum's on the back, and Eagles on the front, and the car understeers like crazy. I wasn't particularly happy with the OEM Bridgestone Potenzas (noisy, expensive and wore out very quickly). Agree on getting the geometry checked - but make sure your place does 4 wheel alignment rather than "tracking". A lot of tyre shops only have the equipment/knowhow to check the alignment of the front wheels, however the alignment of the rears is equally important for handling and tyre wear.