GrahamG

Phil, if you search on the USA owners club under sub woofer repair there is good detailed information about removing the rear seat. Ignore the post that suggests the trim inside the rear pillar and threshold needs to be removed. The consensus is it is indeed not too much of a challenge.

From the shape of the front side lights this is effectively a face lift model available from 2004 in the UK. Wish my '04 with 87k miles was as rust free as that underneath. I would not hesitate to spend good money having that car professionally undersealed simply because it is such a great car and the most effective treatment is prevention rather than rust removal. I have heard Japanese cars for their home market are not well rust proofed from the factory.

If they were to ask me why I wanted to work for Lexus, my reply would be, "A number of owner satisfaction surveys have concluded that the owners love the dealerships as much as the cars [ in direct contrast to so many top marques] and that is the sort of company I want to be involved with.

Good to hear from you John. Not surprised at what you say about the Iranians. Will there be a return trip?

Again I am not being funny but use the index under as many 'keyless locking' variations as you can think of. Good luck.

Jay, I am honestly trying to be helpful saying this, but have you looked in your manual? For my LS430, just one year before your model there is a button on the dash which simply switches it on and off.

With the hybrid system does the alternator not charge the big hybrid pack as well as the starter battery? Is its only charging from regenerative braking? For my 'old tech' cars I would run the engine once a week up to operating temps to circulate the oil and for warmth to drive out the damp in the engine bay and inside the cabin. To my simple way of thinking dampness is the long term enemy of these cars with all their electronics and six weeks is not long enough to cause concern.

I would be interested to know the reaction of your insurers. My Ls430 has air suspension and I have long considered the options open to me if an air strut fails. An imponderable for me has been the insurance situation. Pleased you are happy with the ride.

With three years of Lexus warranty that has to be the cleverest way of buying an old luxury car. I have bought my three cars from main agents and have never regretted paying the premium price. It is not just the warranty but also the knowledge they do not sell cars that are at risk of causing problems. Also I know from experience and have heard from other sources there is a high rate of 'paying out' on Lexus warranties.

When my six year old Ls400 had a front spring fail Lexus at Guildford were adamant that only the one needed replacement. The other spring lasted at least another fourteen years and 60k miles.

How much the car is affected by rust might decide the issue for me and whether I have a garage to keep her in. I would have the wheel arch liners out for inspection and have it up on a lift with a strong light to inspect especially the rear sub frame and sills. Would not want to pour money into a car that I knew rust was eventually going to destroy especially if kept outside during our winters. Once rust has set in there is no longer the option to simply have the car 'treated' in my experience. For that reason I let go my '95 Mk III which I loved and changed to my current '04 Ls 430 which I would not change for the world.

Thanks for the update. You are in line for a big dose of good luck.

The most damaged Lexus of the year with the best story to tell but no one hurt. I am remembering those wide open spaces in France where I flew gliders and there was little opportunity to find cover. Perhaps some creative artwork to suggest bullet holes and a set of Bagdad plates? No, I know you are not laughing but seriously glad you are unhurt.

I removed the inner panel of the nearside front door three years ago when I bought the car [82,000 miles] and the holes where the fixing studs come through the skin were pristine. Also it could be seen that the ACF-50 had wicked through and was running down the inside and I assumed I was safe. Very disappointed with the ACF-50 because I now have one inch diam. rust patch on the outside which has grown over three years and only 5,000 miles. Have also applied it each year under the car and after each year there has been no sign of it remaining on any exposed areas although their Corrosion Block grease applied to the ride height sensors has been more impressive. Recently removed the rear wheel arch liners and rust is just beginning around the leading/front part of the lip. Removal of the front nearside liner revealed factory perfect metal every where. Rustbuster's Fe123 [rust converter] over coated with their two part epoxy mastic applied to selective exposed areas underneath three years ago has held up very well.

Does anyone know how to remove the 'chrome' horizontal cover strip on the lower part of the door on a Ls430 without damaging anything? I have seen the plastic studs that hold it on inside the door and they appear to be of two parts with a central push stud spreading out the outer part to provide the fixing. Is the deco strip in two parts? Can I pull/pry off an inner part to access the inner stud part and pop that out to allow release? Despite applying ACF-50 each year and knowing it wicks through the holes in the door panel I have one rust site bubbling up the paint from a fixing stud on near side front door.

You must be well and truly fed up with the whole thing. Am I correct in thinking Paul Frost installs second hand transmissions as well as selling them? In which case would trucking it to him be an option?

Had my 2006 RX350SE for 4 years and would buy another. Feels bullet proof to me and I love the easily maintained traditional technology. [steel suspension] Strangely the faults that crop up on the USA club site do not seem to be issues here but must watch out for rain water ingress especially at rear. It has a timing chain , therefore no belt to change. Also has better acceleration and better fuel economy than the 300.

Phil, I am sure it is all quite simple but I cannot exactly visualise the set up. Given access to a ramp I leave the rad in situ but do we need to drain the coolant to inspect the suspect unions? Is it just the unions that cause the problem? Assuming the metal of the unions is not corroded would we expect to just renew 4 'O' rings and reassemble? The union in your photo does not look bad to me. I believe so little ATF is lost it would not be necessary to top up.

Phil, Thanks for offering an alternative opportunity to be pro active against this problem and which leaves the original design intact. It is especially appealing to me because my car has a full main agent service history and with the correct coolant in the system and only 80,000 miles I did wonder if an after market rad might not be a retrograde step. There is near me someone who has an excellent reputation for repairing , building and designing rads so I might involve him.

Peter, Let me compliment you on a well reasoned and balanced post. A few days ago I was all set to buy a separate rad but was put off by the argument that the original design provides preheating in the winter. The solution that works for me is to do nothing because I could have the car trucked up to Paul Frost to fit a second hand tranny at a cost that does not justify the preventative maintenance of a Lexus rad. Bearing in mind my low mileage is all local and I will not be stranded in some exotic location. As you say, just my 2p.

Lexus Reading want £823 for a new rad. Their master technician with Lexus 10 years reports he does know of this problem [water from rad into gearbox] but that it is very rare. If a second hand tranny could be installed for say £1600 and I will only be stranded driving locally I am doubting the wisdom of taking preventative action in this case.

Just had a price for a radiator from Lexus Birmingham and it is £431.48 inc VAT and delivery and that is with a discount.........ouch!

My reasoning was to fit a separate cooler and bypass that in the main radiator to avoid future mixing of oil and water. Have just spoken to an auto transmission specialist in Guildford and his advice is to stick to original factory design including a Lexus radiator rather than after market. Apparently this is also a problem for a number of other makes. That is what I will do, either have main agent fit it or an independent. Do not intend to hijack J's thread and fingers crossed for him.

Could I trouble you for the name of your experts. So they are renewing your rad. and fitting a separate ATF cooler?

50/50 ?? Lexus Guildford have had this happen four times. Twice gearbox lost but when driver took early action after noticing incorrect behaviour all was well. Only the Lexus rad. has the overflow from top corner. All after market rads have it from conventional filler neck. Both variations are original fit to the LS430. Would you ask your experts their opinion on fitting a separate smaller oil cooler, especially whether it might not cool sufficiently without the benefit of the electric fan. Good luck.