jigmaster flash

the grey lead in the boot is for the optional oem carphone aerial (built into top of rear screen)

I nearly covered everything in it out of frustration, but decided not to at the last minute :)

Am planning on installing an aftermarket hardwired carphone kit, and my first thought was I could use the alleged 12v socket in the centre armrest bottom bin to tap power from - but contrary to 98 spec list I haven't got one! (any other mk4 owners not have it? ) While digging about under the centre armrest I found 2 white connectors (1 each side) behind the armrest air vent at bottom - I presume these are the factory connectors for the original optional factory phone ? I presume that somewhere within these 2 connectors will be a pin for switched power, and also a pin for mute ? If so does anyone know which connector/pins to use for this? many thanks marty

Oil level is correct Martin, was my first check! I'll live with it for a week or two and see if anything changes that might give me a better idea as to the cause. I'm almost convinced the belt noise is a belt tension issue now, (which may or may not be caused by one of the aux pulleys), so when I can bear the cold i'll be pulling the belt off and going through the pulleys and changing the belt again.... Hopefully the noise is just appearing at the AC pulley rather than being caused by it!

makes sense, but only noisy when a/c is OFF.... 1. Possibly a dry tensioner bearing - maybe the extra load from the compressor increases the tension in the serpentine belt which is enough to stop the screeching. 2. What grade of oil are you using? (Too thin maybe?) And is your EGR pipe OK? Just a few thoughts based on guesswork... 1) Must say I think your on the right lines , my first thought was it must be a belt tension issue but was a brand new belt and tension/idler pulleys seem to be ok...... Worth trying another belt? 2) same syn 5w/30 that its had last 2 oil changes - but must say it seems louder since I changed oil/plugs last week ...(its very cold here at the mo, but ticking doesn't quieten as engine warms) Haven't checked EGR pipe - where is it located?

2 questions that i'm hoping someone with a bit of MK4 engine knowledge can help me with: 1) Noisy aircon clutch ? - intermittent screechy noise when a/c is off, quietens down to almost nothing when aircon is switched on. I replaced serpentine belt last week to try and reduce the noise, but if anything its noisier since. My immediate thought was aircon clutch bearing gone bad ? anything else I should check before wrestling with pulleys and bearings?!!! 2) Ticking from rear of engine - quite a noticeable ticking from each side of rear of block, volume is constant regardless of whether at idle or with revs - thought it was the injectors so I ran some injector cleaner through last week and seems louder since. I mentioned it to my local mechanic, and he told me not to worry about the ticking injectors, reckons they always get loud with age and the cleaner they are the louder they'll be. Anything for me to check before I try and ignore the ticking?!! been fixing all the little problems that came with the car over the last 2 weeks, these are my last two to fix!!! (hopefully!)

Am I right in saying the mk1+2 have a different front grille than the mk3 + mk4?

Steve i haven,t noticed any change, but the travel has been almost down to the floor since I got it, so definitely needs adjustment anyway. Presuming it is a handbrake issue, why would it cause a clunk and the shift lock solenoid to become really loud?

yes i will do Roy. theres definately a corrulation between the initial clunk, the handbrake warning light and the loud shift lock solenoid . hopefully steve or one of the other gurus can shed some light!

Drove for 4 miles then stopped at a set of lights this morning, foot on brake in drive. lights turned green and as i pulled away there was a clunk noise from rear end, then noticed handbrake light had come on. Pulled over and checked handbrake foot pedal was off (it was). Put car in park, handbrake light still on - deployed handbrake foot pedal - light still on, released handbrake foot pedal - light still on! turned engine off and removed key - lifted the bonnet and checked brake fluid level - was ok. got back in car, pumped the brake pedal and seems normal, except now theres a loud click from under the gearshift console. Turned ignition on, still loud click from under shift console. Moved gear shift to drive, tested brake pedal and no click. drove carefully home, brakes seem ok but on rolling at idle theres a very slight noise from rear (or it could be a touch of the placebo effect... will check later when my heads not spinning!). So...... sequence goes like this: clunk from rear on pull away dash handbrake warning light came on new loud click from under the gearshift console if brake pedal depressed with ignition off, or on in park but not if on in drive - was completely silent in all permutations until now. . can anyone shed some light on what might have happened/ diagnosis.... ? update just been out to car - turned on and warning light now disappeared! went for a half hour spin, no clunks and brakes feel fine - only symptom left is the loud shift lock solenoid! mmmmm - going for a lie down.....

Cheers mark, that solves the riddle of the grey key. I took the non-working spare remote apart and the pressure contacts for unlock/lock have broken off the circuit board, which was rusty too so obviously dropped in liquid at some point. Cleaned up the board as much as I dare and luckily it works manually on all locks and ignition so still a spare!

With my recent ls400 purchase I got three keys - two remotes and a non remote. One remote works fine. The second remote door lock and unlock functions do not work and the indicator light does not flash. THe boot unlock button does work though,and the red indicator light flashes when pushed. Am I to presume this second remote key is buggered ? The third key is a full size one but without remote buttons, I tried unlocking the car with this and the alarm went off! what is this keys function?

I believe the correct ps fluid is dextron 2 for my 98 ls400, (think thats what it says on reservoir cap) however when i went to my local motofactors today they only had dextron 3. (of course, its possible it actually has dextron 3 in it, but theres no way i can tell!) is it ok for me to mix the two versions ? or in the absence of me knowing whats in there already is it best for me to do a complete change?

well i discovered today that running a tyre air compressor off one of the rear door cigarette sockets is not a good thing to do! it ran for about 20 seconds, then cut out - checked rear ciggy fuse and yep, it was blown. the standard fuse is 15amp and only used for the two rear cigarette sockets - can i replace it with say a 25amp fuse which will take the draw of my compressor without a problem? slightly worried the wiring might only be rated for 20 or 25 amps...... in which case i'll be able to blow my tyres up in exchange for setting fire to the car!

i'll throw some piccies up when it stops raining Keith! mechanically she's excellent, (apart from the above 2 little issues) - in amongst the service history is a garage bill from 2011 for major service and cambelt change - £1200 !!!! cosmetically she's just beginning to show here age, so once i get the 2 niggles sorted i'll be moving on to the interior and exterior to try and bring her back to glory. done 200 odd miles in her since yesterday, and averaged 29 mpg, which is the same as my mrs ford streetka !

I have a couple of little niggles with the LS400 that ive decided to sort out, can anyone advise me: 1) the rear courtesy/map lights on the c-pillars have never worked - but the ones next to the switch above the doors both work fine. I've always presumed the pillar map lights should come on with the map light switch, or the door switch on opening - (ie in tandem with the map lights above door) - am i correct? If so i presume I have either a wiring problem or two blown bulbs? 2) headlight washers have never worked - cant hear any pump/motor noise so presume pump is kapput or wiring problem or fuse gone? Is the pump under near side headlight? where do i find fuse ? any help appreciated! many thanks marty

lovely, i nearly went for that car but the owner didn't answer the phone when i rang ! reckon its a good un, as has been used as a wedding car and they are always looked after properly. off to pick mine up tomorrow - yeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaa!

all sorted now, picking up a lovely old girl tomorrow...... :D

Enjoy the day Keith, and dont forget the piccies !

i'm not joking Mike, ive sold dozens of cars over the years and always made sure there was enough fuel for the buyer to get home. I really do believe its bad form not to. So i sort of expect the same courtesy in return. There's enough to haggle about without bartering over enough fuel to get you home! Call it outrageous/naive/old fashioned or whatever you like, i call it decency. (btw, my old s500 i sold was for spares for £500, and picked up on a transporter, so thats why ive never got over leaving £120 worth of fuel in it!)

call me old fashioned but i just think its bad form when selling a car for a grand or two not to make sure its got half a tank of fuel in for the buyer.....

i've got a 150 mile drive, so would need a big petrol can ! if its only got a dribble in the tank i'll be giving him £50 less than agreed, or getting the train home :D

told you! spill the beans then, whats she like ?

you lucky man, i'm picking up a 400 on Thursday so you'll be tinkering before me! wonder if either of us gets more than £10 worth of petrol in the tank? (its always bugged me when buying a used car that the seller usually ensures its almost empty of fuel.... especially as i once unwittingly sold a s500 with a full (£120) tank.... grrrrrrrrrr!)

yes there are Mike, but i have a plan for them.. just wanted to know if spindle fits.