katabrontes

I have seen reports about MoT failure if bulbs are replaced. I have fitted HID main beam bulbs to my 2006 RX350 about 8 years ago and recently replaced them with, much better, LEDs. Also replaced reversing lights with LEDs. Never had a problem with MoT.

Is the bulb reversible, ie can it be plugged in after rotating 180 degrees. It could be a polarity issue.

Try Saga. They provide cover from LV (who wouldn't cover my RX350 for 12 months in Europe any more but Saga, through LV did!).

Codes have been checked numerous times and none found.

Cyprus?

Thanks Colin. Certainly not 'a bit low' as it's a new one and terminals are clean and well greased. I haven't checked voltage at the ECU but as the warning lights sometimes stay on after starting, but at other times they come on while driving when drain is lowest and alternator running so voltage should be at max. My independent garage has checked this several times and nothing found. Never detected any fault codes. Lexus dealer had no ideas. It always clears if the engine is stopped and restarted.

Of course 'the12volt battery 'couldn't be the cause of the lights coming on with my 30 as it doesn't have an auxiliary battery. It's very odd but does seem to matter in my case

I get a similar problem with my RX350 although clearly it doesn't include any battery problem. From time to time, either immediately after starting the engine or while driving, the VSC, brake and ABS light either stay on or light up. Everything works including ABS when I have tested it by sharp braking on grass. No fault codes have ever been detected either by my little dongle or my garages more sophisticated system on a laptop. The lights are always cleared by stopping the engine and restarting. Sometimes it seemed to be related to driving in the rain but not necessarily. Various explanations have been proposed (dirty ABS sensor discs on the brakes, differing tyre pressures (affect the rolling diameter of the wheel so speed of rotation varies thus simulating a skidding wheel)). None of these have been validated. The final conclusion has been that it's caused by some obscure software glitch in the main ECU which resets itself when the engine is switched off and restarted. This has been happening for many years and the car has never failed an MOT. it remains a mystery and I have learned to live with it.

I had a similar dent last year. Local body shop did it for £540.

Take care about opening or closing the roof pending diagnosis of the problem. My 2006 RX350 had its sunroof motor burned out when I bought it. It was traced, after replacing the motor twice, to a broken small plastic part in the mechanism which had jammed the roof and resulted in the operating tape being broken. It took over 30 hours labour to fix it (covered by the dealer's warranty). if your problem indicates and impending similar failure the roof might get stuck open!

Good decision Glover. I feel the same about my 2006 RX350.

When I bought our first Saab about 40 years ago the salesman told me I wouldn't ever want any other car. He was right for a while and we had four more over the next 20+ years. I moved to a big 4x4 Toyota next as I needed more carrying capacity for wine than my elderly 900T could manage without bottoming the rear springs and then to RX350 which I still have after 14 years. Can't think of any reason to move away from a Lexus to replace it but will wait until the theft free generation gets affordable in about 5 years time or I get bullied too much by HMG to hang on to the 350. Best car I have ever had and nothing needed to mend since we had it.

Why not use an independent? Probably closer to home and likely to be cheaper. My last visit to the nearest Lexus dealer when considering upgrading my 2006RX350 to 2020 450h (I didn't and am very pleased) was unimpressive and when I decided not to go through with the deal - because the salesman refused to fit roof rails and thus missed the psychological tipping point which happens in any deal - he became quite offensive. Last time I will visit that one!

This is almost certainly drainage from the AC condenser. I have noted this ever since I first had a car with AC over 25 years ago.

Get a TomTom. Free map updates! Costs less than a Lexus update.

You should be able to get the curtain wire at any ironmongers or a curtain maker etc. I would get at lest 2-3 metres to make sure you have enough to leave some sticking out each end as you might need to pull it in and out while flushing water down the drain to make sure any debris gets cleared out thoroughly.

I would start by clearing the two front sunroof drains. A length of flexible curtain rail - the stretchy spring type uses for net curtains - pushed down the drains from the top. Check what comes out at the bottom end (close to the back of the front wheel arches). There is a rubber valve on the bottom which might be blocked. A good squeeze and wash with water should clear that. Worth clearing the rear drains as well while you are at it. They run through the rear of the boot area at each side behind the inner trim. Same valved outlet at the rear of the wheel arches.

Change the wheels?

Try Saga, who cover through LV. When LV stopped covering my RX350 for EU cover for 12 months I switched to Saga, who will, and was surprised to find the cover was provided by LV!

In fairness to EVs, of which I remain a sceptic, I saw a Tesla yesterday in Sainte-Foy-la Grande which is about 400 miles from St Malo and there are several Tesla fast charging stations on the motorways (E3/A10) - very unusual to see any, or more than one or two, on these banks of about 12 chargers.

You could try a breaker - as long as the car hadn't rolled!

LV withdrew the full 12 months EU cover a couple of years ago so I renewed with Saga who did - cover was with LV!

Just as well Ken because you will need it to pay for it!

Thank you Colin for these helpful observations. Mostly I avoid very short runs. In UK most are about 15 miles or so to do shopping. Occasional longer runs. Speeds are usually about 30-50 mph. In France runs are about the same for shopping and speeds a bit faster as the roads are clear. About 4 round trips of about 350 miles mostly motorway when speed is more or less constant 85mph. I haven't ever bothered much with fuel consumption. I think in terms of full or empty! Petrol is a relatively small part of the cost of running a car. If you buy and change new ones it's trivial. I tend to buy a good example at about 5 years old and keep it until it starts to cost more to service than it's worth, or even longer if I like it. The inevitable odd scratches neither matter not bother me. The first one on your shiny new car must be very upsetting. I dislike new cars. They smell horrid, everything is stiff and differs from its predecessor. My experience has been that they often go wrong soon after you buy them and depreciation is massive. Although I still enjoy driving I regard a car as a useful tool and instrument of freedom of choice. I like it to be comfortable, quiet, big enough to provide for my needs and easy to drive. A few bells and whistles are nice if they enhance safety or the driving experience.

I was surprised by your observation about ac Rowley. I have only tested this on my Saab 900 turbo (sadly long defunct). I ran two full tanks one with ac on and the other with it off and could barely detect any difference in mpg. It was over 25 years ago and I can't remember the figures but it usually averaged about 24mpg. I have always left ac on all the time ever since. I am sure the benefits far outweigh any effect on mpg. I agree about E10 and always buy E5 when I can get it. In France E5 is readily available as either 95 or 98 octane. In UK it's getting hard to find and only in 98. Advice from the Lexus agent in Bordeaux was to stick with E5 as the saving on cost was more than offset by the poorer mpg.