Jacques Wood

I found it was advertised in January at £1950 with 184K, and MOT is until August 24th 2016, but I cant get ahold of the MOT history on: www.check-mot.service.gov.uk which has never happened to me before. Have found it was on plate 3667PZ at one point **UPDATE** MOT website was down, it failed MOT's in 2007 for tyres and bulbs, and in 2014 with OS FT suspension arm play. Only done 17k miles in last 4 years.

Mine has an 84 litre LPG tank plus two spare wheels at present but it doesn't look quite as low as yours. Mike. I'll get them out again at the weekend, I can test the spring rate, see if they're equal, does anyone know the OEM spring rate? Nothing looked out of the ordinary last time, I guess they could have been cut, I'll inspect further. I felt the dampers performed perfect, they were clean and fully extended, but I'll concede that they could just be worn out. The car runs and drives fine (or so it feels to me). Where to people typically buy their replacement dampers/springs? Is there an acceptable pattern part? I'm not bothered about paying for OEM stuff, but if there's something out there cheaper I'll never say no. thanks for all your help and feedback everyone.

I thought I was low at the back too, but it's passed the "bounce" test and when I had the shocks out and the springs off to test, both shafts are fully extended and difficult to compress. I've put is down to the 55 litre LPG tank and is hanging out right over the back where the spare wheel was.

Finally I can look at my LS without wincing at the sight of after market wheels. Though they aren't technically period correct, I like the design. The ongoing exhaust blow was quickly found once I got it in the air. It seems lashings of exhaust gum were used on the flange after the cats on both sides. Looking through the history, a blowing exhaust has been an advisory on the MOT's from 2005 - 2009. With the LPG, I can run without the cats for the emission test, so I'm tempted to make a decat pipe from the manifold to the first mufflers to bypass any flange in that area. Has anyone made anything similar?

Yes please Ruud, if it isn't too much trouble? are you able to PM it to me?

Can I ask if this particular fix was a DIY job or sending it somewhere? I intend to fix my back light issue as well.

Thanks Cruisermark, A nice weekend project, if I'm successful I'll do a write up. I quite like the splitter, I'll have a go at fixing it.

Things are coming along nicely, I've finally bagged a set of MK4 5 spoke LS400 wheels, and the cambelt is booked in. A few odd jobs I want to sort. Firstly, I will have a go at diagnosing and repairing the back light of the OEM radio unit (it works fine but doesn't light up), does anyone know how I release the unit? Head unit keys? or take the trim off around the gear stick and work upwards? Secondly, the very lowest part of the front bumper, what I would call a lip spoiler is completely shot. Does anyone have a Lexus part number? or can at least point me towards a spares manual to find it myself? as always, any help and advice appreciated. Jacques

Service time! one of the more satisfying (I think) jobs to do on a car. My research has shown that I should be opting for 5W30/40 with the car now approaching 140K? Does anyone use similar? there seem to be many different results when looking through this forum of what people have tried. Can anyone recommend a transmission fluid? fluid capacity? In other news, cambelt search has lead me to GasNGo lexus in Swindon (thanks for the mention), sadly I've got the ultimate first world problem of not being able to get to them during office hours! :megaangry:. My ABS grumble just as I come to a halt has lead me to remove and clean the pick up gears/cogs on the front (where I believe the ABS is activating), to no avail. Do you think if I get the wheel off, and spin the hub with a voltmeter in the sensor I'd get change in resistance? More trouble shooting to follow. If I solve the problem I'll do a write up with pictures.

I'm afraid the fairy tale has ended. After picking up my car and leaving a CT200h (not the like for like i expected) they've contacted me to say that they can't change my cambelt, because "Lexus do not work on LPG converted cars, because a technician was killed 3 years ago". I'm completely dumbfounded by this. Can anyone shed any light on where they get their LPG converted LS's worked on? I'm very capable of doing the cambelt myself, but it seemed cheap enough at the dealer to warrant getting them to do it.

Thank you all for your input, it's so nice to be on a forum with people giving friendly advice and ideas. Fun story, Lexus Coventry are picking up the LS for a Cambelt today, but need to keep it overnight as they're short staffed. Apparently I've got an LS460 coming my way for a day! Though I think someone higher up might raise an eyebrow when they see they've given it to a 25 year old!

Just a quick update with a picture, Ruud was right about the paint code being 6N9, which is nice to see in the flesh, as I plan tin import a Mkiii Supra in that colour next year. The interior is a bit grubby, but it's proving to be a fantastic daily. It's having the cambelt done at Coventry Lexus tomorrow, along with a "health inspection". I'm still none the wiser as to why I get a little kick from the ABS when I come to halt, no codes flashed up when I plugged in the OBDII and the bulb lights up and goes out happily on start up.

Ruud, that's exactly it, when the car is cold and the revs are up I get the jolt. I hadn't thought of that, that makes sense, am I just experiencing gear engagement?

thanks for the help guys. I do feel I press the brake all the way, the jolt is forward motion by what I assume is the selecting of the gear. It pulls away smoothly, it's just that selection process. The car has 137K on it, it seems genuine, but I only have history to 122K, it's having a cambelt this coming week. As some stage it's had an offside impact and the driver door has very slight evidence of repair (evidence of orange peel, door shut line not consistent, but not touching anywhere. sadly it's had a set of after market wheel put on it at some point, they could be a lot worse, and to the untrained eye you might mistake them for OEM (16" OZ racing 6 spokes), but they need to go. As for the seat, i'm 6ft 7" and broad shouldered. I refuse to compromise my driving position by leaning the seat back, so i'll get another seat on eBay and experiment with cutting and shutting. I'll get pictures up this eve. Thanks again.

After years of wanting an LS400, I can finally afford the insurance! I'm not yet clued up on all the model allocations, but it's a 1995 pre facelift car. I did have a few questions, I hope people might be able to direct me to threads that can help? 1. The car is an incredibly dark green, almost black without direct sunlight. Can anyone identify the paint code? as there are some areas I want to touch up. 2. The ABS kicks in just as I come to a halt, quick research suggests giving the ABS sensors a good clean? does it pick up on a timing gear? 3. Drivers window has a twanging sound that sounds to me a like a frayed winding cable, any thoughts? 4. Where is the OBDII port? 5. Gearbox jolts when selecting D from P, is this a a sign of anything? Or have I just been spoiled with smoother, more modern auto's? It goes up and down through the gears smooth as silk. 6. Has anyone reduced the height of their seat runners (cut and shut mig welding)? Even with the drivers seat at it's lowest, my head is still in contact with the roof. 7. Is there any upgrade or modification that you owners can recommend (later model parts etc.)? Any parts that are better over OEM? Online workshop manuals? I hope to have many years happy ownership, and i'll do all I can to contribute to the forum with any tips/tricks I find/figure out. Thank you for any help. Jacques Wood