Jacques Wood

Don't give up or accept your first quote. Try everywhere. Remember there are crash damaged LS430's with perfectly good boxes in scrap yards all around the country. Try these guys; http://www.idealengines.co.uk/model.asp?pname=all-lexus-ls430-automatictransmission&mo_id=163

Admiral, 36,000 a year (sounds a lot, but it's only average of 100miles a day), 16,000 of which is business, inc. legal cover, no breakdown.

Pete at PTR who did my flanges says that worst case the total job is £250 inc VAT fitted cost. This includes removing the exhaust, fitting new flanges on Y pipe and cats with gaskets, also includes new studs on exhaust manifold (mine were rusted and sheared) and replacing the slip joint exhaust clamp on the other end of the Y pipe (mine was seized). However it could all be cheaper if yours isn't as far gone as mine! So it is a drive in/drive out service, but you need to work around him and his schedule, which I understand isn't ideal. if anyone does want to enquire further, talk to Pete: pete@ptrexhausts.co.uk He can also specify full systems, including mufflers, cats/decats/sports cats, or full upgrades including manifolds for anything you own (My Ducati is next :-D)

As a very serious suggestion. Looks to big companies that import Japanese cars as a source of parts and fitting. They regularly import autos (admittedly usually straight six engined cars) on the cheap and convert them to manual UK side. So they're constantly taking gearboxes in and out. That would be your best bet for getting the car back on the road quickly, as in my experience, they have mountains of auto's lying around. I've met plenty of people in the import business, and they're not chop shops, they're car lovers. it won't be a pristine Lexus show room, but they'll do the job right. Go in with an open mind and you'll get good service. Worth an inquiry at least? Here's a google search for you: Japanese Car Importers Good luck

From factory there is a ring gasket. There are pictures below, but the best way to describe it is like a tightly wound watch spring, it sits in a recess in the flange between the two pipes (in my case the cats and the Y pipe). it's installed with some sort of sealing compound (had turned to a brittle ceramic when removed). I believe the principle of it is that can expand easily to breach any gaps when heat is first applied and stay in shape for the life of the exhaust. We use them at work in motorsport applications, but I've never looked into them in detail, it's just considered a standard for high quality applications. Anyway, I cut some flange shapes on a water cutter to the same size and shape as a metal crush gasket I could readily get my hands on, which is what you see in the finished pictures above. It's cheap and cheerful and works perfectly, but it was just to get it though the MOT (yes putty may have worked, but I like doing jobs properly).

Sorry for the slow update, I had a last minute international situation for work to handle (sounds much more exciting that it really was) Update on the exhaust, making the S/S version before my MOT didn't happen, my exhaust chap couldn't make it in time as he's had to take on a Motorsport contract. Instead he removed the old cats and Y pipe, removed and replaced the flanges on both (seems mine had failed both sides) and re fitted the OEM parts, below is a picture of the work. I'm very impressed with it. He's welded on different style flanges, that negate the expensive crush gasket found on the OEM exhaust. I'll admit, it's arguably an inferior design, but this cost me next to nothing (I won't quote on it unless it was a "mates rates" deal). and the car is now silent (I've had the exhaust blow since I bought it, so this lack of sound is very strange to me, though I can now hear a knock from the offside front damper (typical). I'll try to keep the momentum up and get pictures of the new S/S exhaust ASAP.

If it makes you feel any better, I'm 25 with 8 years no claims, an IAM certification for 6 years, and my un-modified Mk3 is £1450 per annum with £400 compulsory excess.

That's interesting, I didn't take the plunge for the reason that they looked to long in the ebay picture. Can you share where you got yours from?

***Latest update, A member has very kindly donated a rear UCA. I've placed it in the parts washer. And will get it out to companies this week, My initial impression is that the bushes and ball joint are indeed press fit. So theoretically, the bushes and ball joint could be replaced. But I'll dig deeper and check the bores for suitability of reuse once they're removed. Fingers crossed. On the exhaust side, I will hopefully have a price for the Y-pipe tonight. On a side note, Lexus UK and amayama are giving me the "lead time not known" answer on front wheel speed sensors (a continuing problem on my LS that causes the ABS to activate just before coming to a halt). So I'm going to do more research into finding an alternative on those as well.

I've had this issue on an auto BMW. Just to clarify, is there a vibration when you're STATIONARY in any gear? I assume it is as you're cycling P and N? Vibration when stationary - only parts that would be moving are engine rotation and torque converter, with torque converter imbalance being the obvious first place to look. (This was my issue with the BMW)

Sorry if the following is patronising; The EML light will register a fault code on the ECU that needs to be read using an appropriate machine. I would always want all the information possible before offering ideas, so obtaining fault codes is the sure way to make sure to know where to start. Your best bet is a Lexus dealer to get the codes to make sure you definitely get the right answer. I would ask for the fault code numbers written down, as it may be a DIY fix that the forum can help with, if you're cost concious.

Gunnar, The Items I can get are coil spring over fluid damper, not an air shock replacement. I will ask for you though.

Steve, Did the Bilsteins lower the ride height? I can get Bilsteins through my motorsport contacts significantly cheaper than OEM parts, but I don't want the lowered ride height. I've called my Bilstein supplier, but he is unsure if they drop the ride height, as he doesn't know what the extension of an OEM shock is. Cheers, Jacques

You're not on your own, the same problems will effect all owners eventually. This is by a long way the best forum I've ever been a part of, and the general consensus I've got is "if the job's worth doing, it's worth doing right", which matches my philosophy. I'm confident I will find a way to recycle the UCA's to an OEM or better standard, and I'll test them on my own car for 12 months ( my annual mileage is around 32k a year) and report back my findings.

Pete, if you would be prepared to wrap and send it, then please PM me. I can sort out address and reimburse you for delivery.

Hello Brian, He will make however many there is demand for, but a good price break is 5, and obviously more so for 10, 20 etc. He will do made to measure on your car, but that's not a "while you wait" job, it's just him in his warehouse, and motorsport jobs come first. He has the lift and all the gear on site, but he prefers making up a load of identical parts as and when he can during the week.

My commute is 130 miles a day, and I have the perfect car for it! My exhaust friend says he's happy to knock up a 5-off order of Y pipes in 321 Stainless, he will price it up next week after completing mine, then I'll post a thread to gauge interest. I've been e-mailing people breaking LS400's to see if I can get a set of rear top arms that I can clean up and see if I can get new ball joint and bushes fitted. Though admittedly I've never seen one, so I don't know is the task is futile from the get go.

It's an interesting argument, the obvious answer is to mock up a straight pipe through an old cat body, I will double check with the MOT station for the retest, but I'm sure my old MOT testing friend says that regardless of year as long as it passes emissions it's not needed. I'm stopping by tonight, I'll ask if he's interested in mass orders. I won't quote what he's offered it to me as it might be a 1-off price, but it's a lot less than £500. He's the sole supplier of a manifolds for international F3000 series, so I trust his work, and I'll review it for your all. As for the rear arms, I will try and order some. In the mean time has anyone kept some trashed ones they can donate? One of the many benefits of working in Motorsport Valley is having plenty of specialists on my doorstep. I will take them around to see if the old ball joints and bushes can be removed and or replaced with an alternative. If they can be machined/modified, I'll make sure to reimburse the donator, and replace with a set modified/machined from those removed from my car. If modifying is a dead end, I'll design and test my own in CAD in a simple tubular steel design. I'll make manufacture drawings and of course make them free issue to forum users.

After 3 months and 9,000 very happy miles, my Mk3 LS400 promptly failed its MOT. Oh well, I was expecting it to do so, the offside front wheel bearing had developed a grumble, the parking brake has does nothing more than put a light on the dash, and the the exhaust bodge on the post Cat Y pipe (mentioned in a post last year) was blowing like a chimney. So the front wheel bearing/hub combo will be a pain, but I adjusted the handbrake in 20 minutes. The interesting part comes from a new friend (Pete of PTR Exhausts, Brackley, Northants), a former Mk3 LS400 owner whom is going to make up an entire new Y pipe section. I might get carried away and Decat the thing now that it's on LPG as the blowing exhaust has certainly given it a good growl, I'll keep you posted. In the meantime I have an advisory for slight play in the rear upper wishbone ball joints. Can anyone help me nail down a part number so that I can get it ordered on Amayama? I figured it's best to do it now whilst I'm not fussed about lead time. Also, does anyone recommend changing anything else on the rear end whilst I'm at it? Or is it just those top ball joints that go? As always, any help appreciated. Jacques

Am I allowed to show off my 780 miles between refuels with full petrol and LPG tanks, or is that just cheating? Interesting the difference between the VVTI and early 1UZ'z (like mine). My well serviced, clean oil/filtered and tyres correctly inflated car has never gotten above 28.7mpg at indicated 75mph and driven like a pussy cat on 100 miles runs. Though I have noticed that I'm more efficient than the cruise control, which averages 27.1mpg

The 'Royal' edition is the only car I have ever known that has literal granite in the interior. the engine is stuff of legend, and does indeed make a good noise. A search of 1GZ-FE on youtube will have both examples of it's linear power curve and loud exhaust capabilities, if you're silly enough (like me) to watch that sort of thing.

I had the same enormous amounts of steam, but paid no attention to it as believed it to be condensation. Recent MOT threw up both rearward lambdas reading too high. Ended up replacing them, and since the steam has subsided. Admittedly, this doesn't make a lot of sense, as you shouldn't be able to see a richer air/fuel mix in the form of steam. It's just an observation, and could even be a placebo. The only correlation I can make is that a more accurate air/fuel figures going to the ECU means the choke mix is less and on for less time as it warms up quicker, evaporating the steam quicker? So unless your car is overheating I wouldn't worry about it at all.

Assuming the patronising suggestions of checking everything's clean and clear have been addressed..... the fact that the interior light goes out as normal could just be low voltage to a sensor. Is your car battery in good condition? It's just a thought, but I've had odd electrical issues like this with many other cars and all were because the battery was on its way out.

Just thinking out loud. when they do reinstate your licence, I would check you still have all your previous privileges, as us "youths" have restrictions on towing, and vehicle sizes (upto 3500kg inc trailers).

I think your observation is correct, Malc. I recently brought a car home from my Grandparents after they moved to France 5 years ago. After re-taxing and an MOT, their former UK car now has a 5 year gap in the MOT history when viewed online. If you spot that, they you have to assume it's been sat, and use it as a bargaining chip.