Vicmeldrew

Hi Herbie,

Thank you very much for the Lexus procedure to bleed front brakes.

It seems far to complicated for me, scares the s**t out me really, don't have tech stream anyway. I think now it will entail having the job done at Lexus. 

I have a price from them of £415, about twice price of discs and pads.

Thanks again for your help.

56 minutes ago, JBPRX400h said:

I assume from the topic title the problem with your front brakes is causing you to swear a little! 😜

Hadn’t realised or read like!
But I guess I would be swearing if it turned out Techstream was needed.

3 hours ago, Herbie said:

I'm no mechanic but I believe that you need Techstream to reset the brake actuator or something.

I don’t have access to Techstream, likely I could get Snap On equipment if that would be any good.

Does anyone have the correct procedure (if there is one) to bleed RX450h front brakes after  replacing disc and pads?

Previous years insurance was £690, renewal for this year is £1020. That’s with Churchill .

I did the same thing last year but it was 2 keys on a ring that fell down the side. Couldn’t open flap but I used a strong magnet on the lid which grabbed the keys and eventually with moving it to the side enabled lid to open again.

I tried go compare last week and got quotes from £755 to £2995 for 2015 rx450. Have taken what I think is the most reliable company in the list from £755 and upwards. Hastings direct for £810.

Think I’ll wait until mot time and then decide, bit warmer then to be outside on the drive. I used to do discs and pads without a second thought and as you say Barry, it would be cleaned and lubricated etc properly. Not wishing to injure myself struggling with things is paramount so I may end up getting it done at Lexus.

22 hours ago, Spottedlaurel said:

Current Lexus Ipswich prices:

Front pads £205, £415 front discs + pads.

Rear pads £140, £355 discs + pads.

Mine is going there soon....

Thanks for that information, very useful. I thought it was going to be a lot more than that.

11 minutes ago, Spottedlaurel said:

Current Lexus Ipswich prices:

Front pads £205, £415 front discs + pads.

Rear pads £140, £355 discs + pads.

Mine is going there soon....

Thanks for that information, very useful. I thought it was going to be a lot more than that.

Hi Barry,

Thanks for your comprehensive account of disc and pad change. Not seen video of pulling relays out, I will look again but hope it wouldn’t be really necessary .

What was in the fitting kit if it didn’t include back of pad shims?

I have an advisory for worn discs and pads, mot is due in 4months so was thinking ahead that they may fail mot and need doing.

Sadly my  age and health now present problems in car and diy maintenance and  it may be I’ll have to get it done at a garage. Awful lot of money I expect, not seen any quotes though.

Thanks again for your reply.

Vic

On 8/9/2022 at 9:05 PM, Barry14UK said:

The reason why I was thinking of bleeding the brakes is because when the brake pistons are pushed in to accommodate the new pads, brake fluid is going to be pushed back towards or into the brake reservoir/master cylinder.  This might contain a small amount of crud.

Hi Barry,

How did you get on changing your pads and discs? Any problems? Did you have  to use Techstream to bleed or clear any warning lights?

Ive always done my discs and pads on previous cars but rx450h is somewhat more sophisticated electronically than what I’m used to. I don’t have access to Techstream but might be able to get friend with Snapon kit if that does  the same thing.

2 minutes ago, Sundance said:

Your 400h didn't have a sun roof by any chance did it?  Known leakage issues, so I'm told, which is why I made sure my recent purchase doesn't have one!

Yes it did but surprisingly it didn't leak any water. All my water ingress  was in the boot, running in from around rear bumper level both sides.

It’s been -2 for the last couple of mornings. Car has been well frosted outside but small amount of condensation inside. Set climate controls to Auto then pressed windscreen defrost button, it then turns Auto off and blasts air to screen. Cleared window pretty quickly with no dripping condensation. Pressed windscreen button off and system resumed in Auto with a/c selected. This method worked well for me.

I has a RX400h a few years ago which leaked loads of water. I did cure leaks but they came back again about 3 years later. I sold it and said I’d never buy another Lexus. However after a couple of other vehicles I did buy a RX450h against my better judgement. I don’t have any water ingress at present but if they appear in the future I will sell car and never buy another Lexus, ever. It’s ludicrous in this day and age that manufacturers can’t produce a durable watertight car.

Thanks Nemesis and Bluemarlin for your methods. I will give it a try tomorrow and see how it performs in my car. 

I also have all the previously mentioned problems of condensation, freezing moisture  and dripping on dash.

Anyone found the best settings for climate controls, switches to give best results of clearing and drying screen that actually work?

if Ctek are not suitable as a jump-start devices, what do you recommend specifically for this 3.5 litre engine on the 2009 RX 450h?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=sr_1_21?crid=16NU44357MEUP&keywords=portable+car+jump+starter+battery+booster+with+smart+charging&qid=1671627910&sprefix=Smart+battery+starter%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-21

This is what I purchased to start my rx450h when the need has arisen.. it’s probably over the top for rx450h but I wanted to use it on other vehicles

Thanks Herbie for that reassurance. Tha last thing I would want do is keep Battery topped up but cause other problems by doing so.

3 hours ago, Zotto said:

Another precaution while charging 12V battery with any charger is to leave all systems OFF if you are charging without disconnecting battery + or - connector.

 

What about locking vehicle , it sets the alarm which I presume is using power and is technically on?

13 minutes ago, LenT said:

My CTEK trickle charger came with one lead that has two eyelet connectors that fix permanently to the relevant battery posts and then via a small plug to the charger.

So the connection is secure and distant from the battery itself. CTEKs also have systems to prevent overcharging.

The CTEK is exactly what I have and intended to do.

I was looking for confirmation that this would be safe and not damage the cars electrical system.

Thank you all for your replies.

Thanks Herbie. My logic is the same as yours but in handbook for my Volvo it states never connect negative terminal to Battery when charging or jump starting.

3 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

If you aren't cumulatively using your vehicle for at least an hour a week then you will want to charge up the 12 v battery (either using a charger (such as Noco or CTEK) or putting the vehicle into Ready mode for 60 minutes).

Where should the CTEK/NOKO charger be connected? To the Battery terminals or the jump start points under bonnet in engine compartment?

Best nozzle unblocker I’ve found is to use a strand of wire from a wire brush. It’s rigid but flexible, doesn’t break and with a pair of pliers it’s easy to remove one strand without dislodging the rest.

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/topic/109810-new-rx400h-owner-mpg-not-good-cold-weather/?do=findComment&comment=972948

The procedure is in this posting

Vic

Thank you all for your replies.

I feel reassured that my Battery level is normal and I have nothing to worry about. It's a shame that the handbook doesn't contain any info on this subject.