matt-c

You really only need to starting thinking about lower the temperature of the intake air when you're working with forced induction. Colder air is denser and has more oxygen in it, hence why turbocharged engines love cold damp air on winter mornings rather than hot air on summer days - and why they have intercoolers to facilitate that cold, dense, air. On an N/A engine, dropping the intake air, even by a couple degree's (which you really aren't likely to do with just a filter) you aren't going to notice any difference at all. The fuelling system won't even compensate for it, the difference will be so so minor. Really, just enjoy the car for what it is, but don't try to tune it. It doesn't work.

I find it really useful on my customers cars, especially in summer when the car has been sitting in the sun and is roasting hot inside. I can take the key from them and hold the unlock button so all the windows open allowing the car to cool down while I get on with other things. Likewise, when I've finished the job, I can lock and close all the windows at the same time without having to go back to the car and put the key in the ignition. It's also useful if you pull up to, say, a supermarket, kill the ignition and get out only to find the kids have left the windows down. One press and that's taken car of. Or maybe you are enjoying the sunny hot weather at the pub, but you wished you'd left the windows open on the car so it's wasn't horrible when you get in. One push and that's remedied. Just because you've never used it, doesn't mean it's not useful. Broaden your mind a little ;) And if the people you know would be impressed by opening and closing windows, I suggest you're hanging out with the wrong people ;)

Since we're on the subject of batteries, I know mine is in need of replacement (died a few times last winter, once this summer, and again last night was dead as can be. Charged it up and left it maintaining all day, put it back in and without turning the engine over (just the first click for power) it shows this on the volt gauge; Can't remember what it should look like on the gauge, mainly cos the battery as been fubbed for ages now.....

The IS is one of the least tuneable cars you can buy, so I really wouldn't worry about making or losing power. Just use it. Modding it, at least engine wise, is pointless.

Whoops, I always do it the other way round!

You'd be better off wiring them to the back interior light. It activates when you unlock the car and goes off when you start the engine, and then comes on again when you turn off the engine (or open the doors, can't quite remember). With the central locking you'd need a boat load of resistors to make them stay on for x amount of time, and you'd want them on for different lengths of time, depending what you're doing. With the interior light, they would be on from the moment you unlock the car and not turn off till you start the engine

Likewise, you need to be able to show why you think having Lexus contract the work for a screen replacement would "guarantee" the best possible job, as opposed to the specialist company that actually does the work (be reminded, Lexus do not replace windscreens, because they are capable of doing so). Since you've suggested another member backs up their claim, please back up yours, and post your credentials and experience pertinent to the specific task.

Im sorry, I didn't realise you ran the forum and could tell me where I can and can't post? But since you do have all the answers, could you please enlighten me as to how having Lexus contract the work would "guarantee" the best job possible?

Nope, still incorrect. I take it you've never changed a windscreen on behalf of a main dealer before?

Incorrect. See reasons in post above.

1) The Lexus dealer won't replace the windscreen. No main dealers undertake bonded glass replacement. They don't have the equipment or the training/certification to do so. All bonded glass replacements, beit front screen or tiny rear quarter glass, will be subbed out to a contractor. Some will sub out to the "big boys" (Autoglass, AA, etc) but many will sub out to smaller firms. So whilst you might be getting a dealer screen and trim fitted, you may not be getting the best person to fit it (reason I say this is not to belittle the smaller firms, but because they work on price - the more jobs they do per day the more they get paid. So spending half a day doing one screen is not in their interest; it's better for them to "bang out the work" and move on. Not the best work ethic IMO. Secondly, without being consulted first, Lexus may well not order clips that might be needed, and upon removal of the screen and those clips being broken, it's too late to get a set in for replacement that day. Lexus, like most dealerships, do not carry stock of anything except the most common parts; batteries, wipers, some tyres, and point of sale accessories. Anything to do with glass is special order only) 2) I wouldn't even let National Windscreens clean my screen, let alone replace it. Again, this is not a dig at a rival company, this is personal experience of the company as a whole, and the majority of their fitters. There are of course some excellent fitters there, just as there are not so good fitters in even the better companies, but the way to company operates it's business, and requires it's fitters to work and behave, is very focused on cost cutting and profit maximisation (business 101), but sadly at the cost of the customer. Patent part glass, rarely any new trims supplied, even for applications where you should fit new trims (not every car or application needs a new trim, and in some cases it's better to reuse the original then fit a new one; for example, current model Toyota Yaris - it's better to remove the screen with the trim still fitted, then reuse the trim on the new screen, because the new trims don't sit down as nicely in the aperture as the originals, which were fitted in a controlled environment, and have had time to "bed in" to look their best. Outside in the parking lot of your work on a miserable cold day isn't a controlled environment, and a fresh, hard, trim isn't going to want to sit down snugly). My advice? Have it done on the insurance - for a start it's what you're paying for all these years. Secondly, you're likely to get a more reputable windscreen firm such as Autoglass or the AA out to do the replacement; both of which companies have their own fully fledged training schools and the majority of their fitters are ATA registered and certified. NVQ means nothing these days; ATA is now the recognised and preferred qualification of both the windscreen firms and the insurance companies. Along with that, whilst the fitters at these companies are on a bonus scheme for work undertaken, the time allotted for the jobs is higher, and less rush is put on to "lash it out" and move on. If a job takes me half a day to get right, then it takes half a day. If it's silky smooth and goes like a dream, then great - but if it turns out to be a pain in the arse then grin and bear it, and it takes as long as it takes. None of us want a job coming back under warranty, beit for unsatisfied customer, leaking, windnoise, trims adrift, etc. The idea is get it right the first time, and only see that customer again when he or she needs a new screen because of another stone chip (or vandalism, accidental damage etc). Thirdly, tools - the bigger the company, the more likely that technician is going to have the right tools. Most of use do use our own tools, but we're also supplied with company tools, which include specialist tools to complete specific tasks. Your smaller companies, and less reputable ones that focus on minimising outlay to maximise profit, won't have made that investment in specialist tools. For example, BMW Mini door glass adjustment tools - besides BMW I only know of two companies that invested in supplying their fitters with these tools. Both start with A... Or Audi Q7 wiper removal tool - there's only one company that paid for and supplied ALL their techs with this tool. Everyone else just struggles, which can often lead to damaging the paintwork in the underside of the bonnet when trying to remove the driver's side wiper arm. Lastly, warranty. Should the worst happen and something go wrong with the job, do you want a "warranty" from a company that isn't interested in rectifying the situation and their cost, or a warranty from a class leading company, that has the customer service base, and the pockets deep enough, to fulfil it. One particular company, I know actually bought a customer a brand new £40,000 Audi cabriolet after the interior of one was destroyed by a fitter dropping a bottle of primer inside it. There's not many companies that would, or could, do that. Same company rebuilt a boundary wall for a customer after another tech spilt primer on that. However, a company that won't pay for a £12 trim for a BMW Mini aren't likely to do that for you. And whilst you would have warranty through Lexus if you had them sub the work out for you, Lexus can't rectify the situation - the glass company has to. Hope some or all of this is some help.

My logical mind says it must be made that way for a reason, and not just "because". I can only assume it's made like that so that if you were to lean over and knock the mirror with your head, the mount would pull apart rather than the screen be broken because it's bonded on. And the only reason I can see the part with the threaded section in to be like that, is so if you strip the thread, you only need to buy that small part, rather than replace the whole screen if it was all bonded on. But yeah, it's still dumb. I think on the next one, I might try drilling out the dimples the ball bearing locate in. Drill them through fully, so the balls lock into place, with a touch more spread from the spring clip...

And I forgot just how much a ball-ache the older GS's are! First, you've got the side trims. They're full length of the car, and clipped down. Trouble is, the clips along the roof don't like to hold as tight as they did before you take them off, making the trims a bit "spongey" after refitting, and secondly, the clips down the front a-posts are mounted on a rail - which is riveted to the a-posts! You have to drill them out before you can take the screen out, as both the clips, and the rail, overhang the sides of the screen, which makes removal VERY difficult with them in place, and fitting the new screen next to impossible. Once you've done all that, you have the dreaded mirror. This has to be one of, if not THE stupidest mirror mounting systems ever devised. First, you have a metal (aluminium I think) boss/bracket bonded to the glass. New screen comes with the same part pre fitted (as most modern cars do). The mirror itself is removed from the car by way of taking off a small plastic cover, exposing a T30 torx bolt. Simply undo that, and the mirror is free to remove from the glass. Great. Until you get to the "middle man" The middle man is the bit that mounts to the boss/bracket on the glass and allows the mirror to affix to. In the pic above (sorry I didn't take more pics at the time - would have been easier to explain it), the silver part is the boss/bracket, the black around the edge is a plastic cover, and the middle man is the dark metal bit inside the silver bracket, with the threaded section. This fits into the boss/bracket in three places. First, there's a tab at the bottom (the pic is upside down view, so the bottom is what looks like the top - where the indent is on the black plastic cover). Then at the sides, there's two ball bearings, each inside a little plastic "top hat" (the white bits) which is held in place with a spring clip. These ball bearings fit into two dimples on the silver boss/bracket, through the dark metal part, and the spring clip holds them tight. Trouble is, they never, ever, want to fit correctly! The spring clip is a PITA as it is, and the holes for the white plastic "top hats" are so tight, the "top hats" don't like fitting through them. The dimples in the silver boss aren't really deep enough, so the ball bearings are never fully locked in, and the whole thing is subject to "pinging" itself off at any minute, meaning you lose the ball bearings and it's game over! Fortunately, with enough time, patience (only just!) and more swearing than a sailors convention, I got it all in nice and tight. It's not my first rodeo with these, so I knew what to expect; the last time I did one I was very careful with it, and thought I had it sorted when "PING!" - off it went, launching one of the ball bearings into 4ft of snow. Yeah, you try finding a 4/5mm chrome ball bearing in a 4ft snow drift. No chance! Fortunately those ball bearings, complete with the top hats, are available from Toyota/Lexus at a whopping cost of £2.48 a pair. I did drop one today - cue frantic search, only to find it was about a foot away from where I dropped it, but after a good 10-15 mins I had it locked in tight, and even took it all out again and out it back together just to be sure, as I wasn't 100% happy with it the first time. This HAS to be done prior to fitting the screen. First time I ever did one I made the mistake of trying to fit it to the new screen AFTER I've fitted the glass in the car - BIG MISTAKE. Hell, if the mirror wasn't electric, I'd fit that to the screen out of the car too, and lift it all in in one go! So, over 2hrs of sweating and swearing in the gorgeous sun, one happy GS300 owner - 75k from new (I forget which year it was, 2nd gen I think) But seriously, you GS owners. Please don't break your screens! PITA car to work on!!!!!

Ah, just the gel pad then. Must have not seated correctly, causing it not to function.

Blue was my first choice for colour, but in the end I went for the (off) silver. Enjoy it - I've had mine a couple years now, and I still enjoy driving it! Went out this eve down my usual twisty lanes, and whilst it might not be the quickest thing you can buy, it sure does grip! What phone do you want to connect to the HU? There's a couple kits out that work with the stock HU (they plug into the external CD changer port on the back of the HU), one made by a company called GROM and another called XCARLINK. I think both have bluetooth options too. I have the Grom model, and use it with my iPhone and iPod (30pin connector standard on the Grom which works with iPod, and the Apple lightning adapter to use with my iPhone (5). For the most part, it works a treat (bit of a niggle with the iPhone 5 + lightning adapter; sometimes it works flawlessly, other times it keeps "disconnecting" (not physically). Worked flawlessly with iPhone 4, so I'm convinced the problem lies in the Apple adapter and backward compatibility. But these kits don't just cater for iStuff - they'll also connect to other brands too, or get the bluetooth link and have it wirelessly play.

Re the reason for glass replacement - you still could have done that on the insurance, but that would be down to you and the replacement company to sort out. Re the showroom, I'm still confused - you asked if I bring them up to showroom standard? I'm not a car restorer - I'm a windscreen fitter. I suppose you could say I bring the car up to showroom standard as far as replacing glass goes, but that's were it ends. I don't restore cars, do bodywork, or anything else like that.

The fact it's supplied by AG and not Lexus has no bearing. All the glass is made to OE specs and is, for all intents and purposes, the same. Without looking at your car and inspecting it, I can't say for sure, but I know AG don't carry Lexus sensors. None of the replacement glass companies do. It'd be a main dealer order only, and even that would have to come from central holding, most likely in Japan. I also don't understand your comment about not involving the insurance company because you were worried about safety? Likewise, I'm not sure where you're going about "bringing LS's up to show room standard"...

I've never heard of a sensor being replaced by a different sensor altogether. I've had to chisel off the mounting bracket for a sensor on some screens (mainly later VW golfs), because you run the risk of breaking the sensor casing by trying to prise it out, but it's a different setup on the LS screen, and not the same as a Golf. The only reason I can think of removing the bracket on an LS is to glue it to the new screen - and the new screens comes with the bracket fitted, so the only reason that would be done is if they brought the wrong screen (and non sensor variant) and attempted to swap the bracket over to the new one rather than come back with the correct screen. Which is not cool. But, even if that was the case, the original sensor would be reused - not a new one fitted, and certainly not a different type. Something is very amiss here, but it's hard to grasp without seeing it all up close and taking it apart.

Lexus really are no different to most Toyota's when it comes to changing the glass. LS's are a pig to do, usually, but so are old Carina's and Camry's. IS200's are no harder than a Yaris. and the IS250's aren't too dissimilar from doing the according age Avensis. BTW, AG won't have fitted a new sensor. It will be your original sensor, fitted to the new glass. We, the glass replacement industry, rarely ever fit new sensors, just as we don't fit new interior mirrors; the sensor simply unhooks/unclips from the screen, as does the mirror, and we fit it right back when the new screen is in. If it's not working there are three likely reasons; 1) it's unplugged. 2) the ignition was turned on while the sensor was either unplugged or not attached the glass 3) the gel pad that sits between the sensor and the glass wasn't replaced/refitted, or was refitted incorrectly. Delving into each of the above; 1) there's rarely ever a reason to unplug a sensor. On most cars it can be left hanging from it's sub-loom for the duration of the replacement. There are some cars that you need to disconnect it, but the LS isn't one of them 2) Some cars, usually Mercs, but also some others, will do a fault check when the ignition is turned on. If the sensor is unplugged, or plugged in but not attached to the screen, the ECU assumes there is a problem and "turns it off". The sensor will then not work again until the manufacturer has plugged their software into the ECU and reset it. Again, this isn't common with Lexus', but it can happen 3) the most likely cause - because I see it all the time - is the gel pad between the sensor and the glass either wasn't put back, or was damaged (they can tear) and wasn't renewed. Good fitters will carry spares of this type of thing - I myself have a box full of varying sizes and shapes, for different makes and models. In the case of the LS, the gel pad is a small rectangular piece of self adhesive clear gel, that you simply peel off the screen and put on the new one. Sometimes they come off attached to the sensor, sometimes they don't. He may well have missed this during fitting (although it's no excuse, as a) the sensor should be checked both prior and after replacement, and B) he should know to make sure the gel pad is present when refitting the sensor). On some models the gel pad isn't reusable, like it is on the LS and many other Lexus/Toyota models, and the gel is applied from a syringe in liquid form, which then needs to be cured before it can be fitted. Off the top of my head, I can't picture the LS sensor bracket, so I won't tell you how to remove it. It's probably really simple, but I haven't done one in a year or so so I can't visualise it. If you can look at it and work it out, you can take the sensor off the glass and see if the gel pad is present. If not, it needs a new one. If it is, then the other scenario's might be the culprit.

The complete list; Dip Beam - 9006/HB4 Main Beam - 9005/HB3 Sidelight - 501w /T10/W5W Side Turn - 501w /T10/W5W Front Fog 99-2003 - 9006/HB4 Front Fog 2003- H3 Front Turn Indicator - T20 /7440/582 Rear High Mounted Stop Light - 955 Licence Plate - 501w /T10/W5W X 2 Rear Fog - T20 /7440/582 Reverse light - T20 /7440/582 Rear indicator - amber 582y/7440/T20 Stop/Tail - R580 /w21\5w Interior Middle Dome - 269 /festoon 31mm Interior Front - Ba9 Glove Box - R286 / 5mm Ignition barrel ring - R286 / 5mm Door Marker lights - 501w /T10/w5w Boot Light - 501w /T10/w5w

Really? I find mine the opposite - the winter tyres are noticeably gripper. That said, when the weather really warms up, I do find my summer tyres just as grippy as my winters ones in the colder months. But in the interim months, like spring and fall, I find the winter tyres do feel more confident. Although, I was running them 'til the beginning of this week, and in that hot spell we had last week, I did find they weren't as grippy as usual, so it's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other I guess!

I'd like to do it, as it always baffled me why the front light is press only and not door activated. It looks rather simple; basically just connecting two wires to one light, and threading them to the front light and connecting. The hardest part would be threading them under the roof lining (I've seen some drill the sunroof frame and feed in that way - I woudln't advise doing that, but rather tuck the wire under the headlining around the sunroof. But I know the slippery slope of modifications - and there's plenty of little ones I'd like to do. But once you start, it's hard to stop!

The temp gauge in the IS clock flashes when it's below a certain temp. If you can read, you really don't need an amber or red dash light to tell you the temp is low. The IS also has an instant MPG gauge on the dash. Granted, that's not a trip computer, but if you're worried about journey MPG, you're in the wrong car...

This video would suggest that LED H3's are brighter, and whiter, than H3 halogen bulbs, when in fog lights

The one you've bought will fit the middle dome light as it's the right type (269 festoon) but only if it's 30/31mm. The front one, as Ian says, is a BA9. Just in case you're interested, there is a mod you can do to make the front map light work in tandem with the middle dome light :