matt-c

Sorry but both of those are awful. The fronts are too white/blue/HID/xenon looking, and I don't need x amount of clicks to "tune" the brightness, and the rears just look hideous - especially since a string of LED's fail when coming off the brakes.... All I'm contemplating doing to mine is putting a HID set (no more than 5000k) in the dipped beams of mine, as the standard dipped beam isn't great, and possibly a set of angel eye side light replacements, but only if I can get a clean, natural, OEM look. I don't really want white/blue/xenon looking ones, and certainly don't want super bright...

Is it possible to get these CCFL ones in the "normal" colour lights are, rather than white/blue/HID/Xenon looking colours? I much prefer the Angel Eyes in the more natural yellowy colour you see on Beemers, like the ones in the left on this pic; I've seen them in actual yellow, like this; But aren't sure if they are too yellow, and would look as un natural as the "xenon" white/blue looking ones that seem to be the most common

I'd just leave the manual seat in the passenger side - I hate having to explain to everyone who needs to move it that it's electric and they need to use the button on the side, and then have to tell others to stop trying to make it move faster by scootching! It's also a pain having to reach all the way over the seat to get to the button to move it myself! Makes perfect sense having it on the drivers side, because you can make much finer adjustments than with a manual, but it just isn't needed on the passenger side!

Just hitch it up, and follow the signs to the nearest mine field. Make sure the mrs is filming it when you push the caravan into the field with the live mines though

On paper - if they are both manuals, then get the Sport - same price, year, colour, etc, you might as well get the lower mileage car, and the few little extra's the Sport brings. However, in real life, go for the one that feels best to drive, looks like it's been looked after more, and is in better condition.

If Chris had had it, I'd have had his 200 and swapped over the bumpers and wheels to mine!

I've not done it myself, but I've read, on here, that you need to program the key buttons to the car (doing the pedal dance) but that only does the central locking, and you need to do it again to activate the boot pop button

Possible the key button has not been programmed to open the boot, so try that also

My standard looking Sport; Still deliberating over doing any styling mods - I was bidding on a TTE front bumper, in the right colour, but the seller cancelled the listing (probably had a decent BIN offer), or I might just leave it stock, and if I find a 300 I like, switch up to that

Human hearing sound localisation ends at about 80Hz - and most subwoofer set ups will be below that, making the bass frequency irrelevant to positioning; your hearing cannot tell you if it's in front, behind, above, or to the side of you. Of course, if you face a speaker against a flat surface, such as a wall, you're going to limit it's performance by stifling the air flow in front the the speaker (unless you have correctly ported box to compensate for that positioning). Since subs generally work with low frequencies, they move slower than other speakers, and their larger size makes them move a lot of air. Restrict that air flow and you will restrict the subs performance. Get the box volume wrong for the sub, you get the same problem.

Another set here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/lexus-is200-18-alloy-wheels-x4-nuts-/150900577905?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&fits=Car+Make%3ALexus&hash=item2322601671 I was thinking about buying them myself, but a set of tyres is going to be £650! Plus You'd need to change the tyre on the spare too, because the rolling radius would be quite different, so if you had a puncture and needed to use the spare, you'd be a bit lopsided!

What size screen is the sat nav?

Then possibly you didn't have a true sub set up. Sub bass is omni directional, so maybe you had the frequency cut off at the wrong settings and were actually getting more mid range than LFE

Must admit, I always half fill, which is about £45, so I've not noticed that. I used to do the tenner-a-time when I was younger, but realised I was just doing more fuel visits, so for the most part just brim everytime - although I've changed to half tank fills since getting the IS since the tank holds so much fuel and thus weight! My Rover must have had a tiny tank because it only cost forty something quid to fill up completely!

From what I understand talking to the guys, Lexus designed a chassis to be taut and handle well, but overlooked the geometry, leaving it with good handling and comfort, but at the expense of tyre wear. Tony completely rewrote the geo settings, leaving it with sharper, more focused handling, increased grip without sacrificing comfort, and prolonging tyre wear. Can't go wrong with that! Mine really wasn't far out, just a few degree's of adjustment on a few points, so I won't get the full "feel" benefit that others might, but already I can tell it feels that little bit more "flat" when driving, and the tiny degree of pull to the left I had is completely gone, with the wheel centre being completely centred. No change in comfort; it's not harder or stiffer; rides just as it did before, but feels that little bit more taut and true. More importantly, if it means I don't need to change my tyres prematurely, I'll be extremely happy!

Gotcha

What number should it be set at? I can see that 0 seems to be the highest (ie, the higher the number, the more focused on the road surface the beam becomes, and thus the higher the number the more "down" the beam faces), but should it be set that high, or should it's "neutral" position be say 2, or 3?

Smashing the rear window is no good if the car is double locked, as you won't be able to unlock any doors if it is. so unless you fancy squeezing through the rear door window - onto a rear bench covered in broken glass, which will 1) hurt and 2) scuff the leather - I'd smash the front window, and simply lean down, pop the boot and retrieve the key. then you can unlock the car, and hoover out the glass, meaning no damage to the leather. And if you've got fully comp ins you've more than likely got glass cover, so £50/£60 for a new window fitted

Quicketst way - smash the drivers window, reach down and pull the boot release on the floor

Well, having worked on lots of cars, I can tell you for the most part, the IS is better built that the Focus. Granted they are both plastic'y as hell, by the fit and finish if the IS is better than the focus. It's also better spec'd, although the focus is faster. As for mileage, from what I've learned from talking to people about IS', is you have less to worry about with a higher mileage car with them, because the IS was built so damn well, so long as its been regularly serviced, a high mileage IS is just as reliable as a low mileage car. You just need proof that things like cambelts have been done, water pump, and oil/fluid changes have been done, along with more obvious age related things like bushes and brakes.

^ That's a good idea

Quite possibly, unless it was a dealer request maybe? Unlikely, as I don't think you're supposed to supply a vehicle with yellow fogs, but I could well be wrong I think I might put a set of HIDs in mine, but probably only the dip beam - see how I like them before committing to doing the rest. Might be bright enough I don't even need the fogs or main beam doing!

There isn't any wiring running to the battery with HIDs - they plug into the standard harness and replace the original bulbs. Contemplating putting a set into mine, but umming and arring over doing just the dipped beams, or dipped and main (and maybe the fogs too, so they all match) Pretty sure they aren't a separate model, like how the IS200 has 4 separate models : S, SE, Sport and LE - the 300 only lists 2 separate models, that I can find anywhere (including the official spec sheet on this forum) : which is the regular IS300 and LE. Parkers most likely list it including the styling kit to appropriate value (like how the 3 Series with the M-Sport kit isn't a separate model; it's just a 3 Series with a factory option kit)

Sounds like yours has had aftermarket parts noby - yellow dogs are JDM only, or aftermarket over here (or self tint) and if what kodiac says is correct, then sounds like yours has had aftermarket HID fitted to the main beams too. What do you mean "non TTE models"? As far as I've read, everywhere, the TTE bumpers and wheels were options, not a special edition or limited model? Far as I can find, the IS300 came in only two models - IS300 and LE

The last few I've watched have gone for between £120 and £150 - the breakers I've contacted want between £180 and £220!!! I paid £100 for mine - which is still a lot for an armrest, but it is mint, came with everything including the bolts, and the all important magnet blank, and was still cheaper than the ones on fleabay