matt-c

You can buy new keys with new transponders and buttons, but it gets very expensive, plus you'd need a fully working key in order to program the new one, or take the car to Lexus and pay a hell of a lot of money for them to do it. Either way it isn't needed if you still have a working button and transponder pack - you just swap it from the old key to the new key

Blade is moulded into one half of the casing, so you'd destroy the new keys casing trying to remove it. That was my first thought when I went to replace one of my keys, but even though it wasn't a problem breaking it off the old casing, there's no way to remove the uncut blade from the new key and fix in the old blade. But it's really not a problem, as any half decent shoe repair/key cutters can do it (Timpsons can be a bit funny from what I've read/experienced, but my local place did it) and it's not expensive (I paid £7, or £6.50, something like that) The only problem I had was because I opted for a flip key, it makes it harder to line up on the jig, so initially it didn't work. 2 mins with a metal file at home and it's been working fine for several months

Crazy Russians!

Wouldn't tapping into the speaker wire for one of the rear speakers change its impedance level load on the stock amp? Or would that not be a factor because the sub has its own amp?

Interesting. This high-rca filter - does it work like a crossover or something? Filtering out higher freqs and only passing the lower?

I have the stock 6CD head unit in the car, with the stock amp and speakers, but I'm tempted to add a little self powered (active) sub in the boot, just to boost the low end a bit. What I don't want to do though is get into changing the headunit, or the stock amp and it's associated cabling. I remembered this thread http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=78351 where sjrainsford fitted an ipod adapter into the CD changer port on the back, and said he already had a plug going into it for an external amp and sub. I also have an ipod adapter (a Grom unit) using the cd changer port, but the Grom's have an extra plug on it so you can still use the CD Changer port for a CD changer, like a bypass or passthrough. What I'm wondering is, can I simply get a cable that plugs into the CD Changer port (or in my case, the passthrough plug on the Grom harness) to feed an external active sub? I realise the amp on the sub will need wiring it for power, but I'm asking more if I can plug into the headunit CD changer port to supply the audio signal, without bypassing the stock amp - so that everything continues to work as it does now, but with the addition of a seperately powered sub. And if so, how does it get configured to only pass low freq signals to the sub and now full range (or is that filtered by the amp, assuming it has an active crossover built in. I'm not going for anything big or powerful, possibly even just a little 10" bass tube, as I'm not looking for an SQ sound system (been there, done that) - with this I just want to add a ".1" to the system, much like a home 5.1 system; just a low end boost for a little thump. Standard speakers sound fine, but it just needs a little help with the bottom end I think. Thoughts?

The comments and attitude you initially made about how you've never got stuck in the snow, and can drive to the conditions and if others can't they shouldn't be driving, etc, is very much inferring you think you are better than others. It's reading between the lines, so don't be so literal about it - that just adds childishness to your self-projected attitude. Being such a professional in the trade, and knowing about tyres as you say, reaffirms my point that saying something doesn't work and isn't needed, when you haven't even had personal experience of it on your own cars, that your input is completely invalid. And to try and back up that point by saying you haven't needed winter tyres with "I haven't had winter tyres and I haven't crashed" compacts it again. I haven't rolled my car over, but I still know that wearing a seatbelt is a good idea. I haven't crashed headfirst into a wall, but I still know airbags are a good idea. I haven't hit a deer, but I still know laminated windscreens are a good idea. To further point it, surely if you're driving to the conditions of the weather, then that would include fitting tyres that are designed to work in low and freezing temps to provide extra grip on snow, ice and standing water? You've already said you understand tyres, so you should know that not all tyres are the same. Should we liken it to footwear? You wouldn't go rock climbing in sandals would you? Why not - they are both shoes aren't they? Would you go cross training in a pair of steel toe work boots? Why not - they are shoes, just as trainers are. Would you work in a building site wearing a baseball cap instead of a hard hat? Of course you would - after all, they are both hats aren't they? Back onto driving to the conditions - that's all well and good, and I fully agree; I don't expect having winter tyres to mean I can hoon around like it's summer with a foot of snow on the ground. But if you can't get the car off the drive, how can you drive to the conditions? Putting getting moving to the side (which if you can't, makes everything else academic anyway), I'd rather have a set of tyres fitted that also benefits stopping and braking, along with adding increased grip for cornering. This video is from the Canadian Automobile Association (not a tyre company) and I'd like to think it accurately shows the difference between winter and non winter tyres; As far as insurance goes, I am classed as a professional driver, because of how much time I spend behind the wheel, miles covered per week and that driving makes up 50% of my job. Hence why technically I'm classed as a professional driver. I don't fit tyres, or fix punctures, or change batteries, or tow or relay anyone.

Yes, slimmer tyres are much better for snow (I think I actually said that already?), but 155's won't fit on 7J rims, so that's not an option. We don't get ice packed roads severe enough for spikes, and I'm not putting chains on my refurbished wheels. I also don't live in a lab, and as such don't take manufacturers word as gospel. But instead prefer to speak to real people in the real world and take their advice. And 95% of them say that there is a huge difference with snowflake marked tyres compared to all weather or summer tyres, with the majority citing night and day like differences. I wouldn't expect anyone with any common sense to just take the word of the marketing specialists employed by companies as to what product to buy. You want real world test reports, ideally from impartial parties or individuals. Funnily enough, that's a big reason why forums like this exist. Re bigger wheels and louder exhaust - I was speaking generally, not specifically or personally. I do work for the AA, but I'm not an ex tyre fitter (or even a current tyre fitter). But if you are valuing my thoughts and comments based on my working for the AA, then think again - I'm not an "AA man". And thanks, I know the history behind the AA - they didn't actually start as a means to warn motorists of impending speed traps, but yes they did warn people of them. But we are digressing massively; this is a thread about tyres vs conditions, not who works where or for who. I can only assume it's because you didn't like my comment about glad you haven't worked on my car at any point. As I said "no offence" - I don't know you personally, so all I can draw from is what you've written and the attitude you portray within it - the reason for my comment is you seem (again, seem - I don't know, but get that impression from your writing and wording) oblivious to tyres; how they work and what they do. For that reason I wouldn't want you fitting tyres to my car; I like to know the tyres being fitted are suitable for the vehicle and not just any old tyre with any old speed rating or weight handling capacity. I like to know the compound they are made off, do they have hard or soft sidewalls to handle weight and cornering, are they noisy or quiet, quick or slow wearing, etc etc. Just "throwing on cheap tyres" isn't really my idea of a good idea. Been there, done that, learned from it. But as I said, you're entitled to your opinion, just as I am mine - and neither can be wrong. Such is the nature of opinions! But that doesn't mean I have to listen to them, or take them on board (nor you mine), and as I said; leading with the attitude of "I think I'm much better than you at driving" completely makes me discredit anything you've got to say from the get go. To then go on with the attitude of "I think I'm better than everyone else at whatever is mentioned" cements that. I know many people like that (everyone knows at least one) - we call them "two sh!ts" - because if I've had one, you've had two. Anyway, I'll be getting my winter tyres fitted and balanced on my spare rims next week, and then probably fit them onto the car towards the end of November, early Dec. Lets see if we get any snow this winter so I can make my own mind up from experience - that's always the best thing to do. It's also why I'd never completely disregard a product without having tried it - doing so is pretty stupid. I'm skeptical of lots of things, but I wouldn't blast anything I've never actually tried. Doing that makes an opinion on anything else even less valid.

Definitely go to WIM - they do a lot more than just tracking. Tracking is all well and good, but if the rear is out, then all you're doing is lining the fronts up out too. Mine felt good before, but after it's so much more "planted" and so composed, even when giving it beans through the twistys

I see. Personally, I completely disagree with your mentality and approach to it, but hey ho, such is life. As a professional driver, I get to see all weathers on a constant basis, and working for the largest motoring organisation in Europe, I come across all types. Until last year, I'd never got stuck in snow either, but even though last winter was milder than other recent years, even my FWD transit, with it's chunky truck tyres, got stuck in the foot of snow we had, and I had to leave it where it was. I also personally don't think that changing items to suit conditions is wrong or means you shouldn't be driving. I mean, we use steak knives for eating meat, or should we use a butter knife? I mean, a knife is a knife right? A jacket is a jacket, so why would we need padded ones or water proof ones? And coming from a history of modifying cars, I also disagree on spending more money on mods than basic essentials (or even non essentials) - like wheels instead of good tyres. Might look great on the car, but the car won't look great when it's lying on it's side in a ditch. I've been there and done the whole "well if I spend £xxx on a turbo I can't afford £xxx for servicing - but I'd rather have the uprated turbo" or bodykit, whatever. End result, car looked great, but drove like a bag of sh!t. Maybe it's just me getting older, or maturity, or something else, but I'd prefer to spend money on safety things these days than bigger wheels or louder exhausts. However we are all entitled to our own opinions, and none of them, by definition, can be wrong. But to come across with the attitude of "I didn't get stuck in the snow, because I'm such an ace driver - you did, so you must be a crap driver" is pretty dumb. And as an ex tyre fitter, I'm shocked you don't actually know anything about winter tyres. Pretty relived I didn't have you work on any of my cars, no offence.

BTW, just in case you don't have it to hand, here's a bulb list; Dip Beam - 9006/HB4 Main Beam - 9005/HB3 Sidelight - 501w /T10/W5W Side Turn - 501w /T10/W5W Front Fog 99-2003 - 9006/HB4 Front Fog 2003- H3 Front Turn Indicator - T20 /7440/582 Rear High Mounted Stop Light - 955 Licence Plate - 501w /T10/W5W X 2 Rear Fog - T20 /7440/582 Reverse light - T20 /7440/582 Rear indicator - amber 582y/7440/T20 Stop/Tail - R580 /w21\5w Interior Middle Dome - 269 /festoon 31mm Interior Front - Ba9 Glove Box - R286 / 5mm Ignition barrel ring - R286 / 5mm Door Marker lights - 501w /T10/w5w Boot Light - 501w /T10/w5w

While you're at it, do this conversion too; How-To > http://my.is/forums/...-unlock-413581/ Also, this place sells adapters for the different type of bulb fitments you'll find in the map and dome lights; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warm-White-Light-Panel-36-SMD-LED-Interior-Bulb-T10-BA9S-Adapter-/140877409589?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ccf2ad35 ^ That one comes with both the ones you want for the dome light and map light. I'm sure if you asked him nicely he'd include an extra SMD panel so you have two panels and use two of those adapters (you don't need the white one for the interior bulbs)

You've lost me. You said last year, even with the low snow, your IS was nearly paralysed, so if it's a worse winter, it may well be paralysed, or at least make moving the car very difficult, but then say it's not worth spending money on "different" or "special" tyres, which are designed to combat exactly that? I've never been stuck in winter, and have only had my IS since July. I'm taking a precaution because where I live, the last few years it's snowed about a foot, and I have to get out of a sideways facing incline and up a bit of a slope before even getting to a non-main road. Where I live doesn't get gritted or ploughed. My car currently wears summer tyres, not "all season". All season tyres are a jack of all trades and a master of none - by definition of their description they are a compromise; by needing to provide adequate traction and grip in both summer and winter; hot/warm, dry roads, and cold, wet, snowy/icy roads. However, since the only thing keeping my car on the road are 4 tiny patches of black rubber - with a contact point about the side of a fag packet, I'd opt to go for the absolute best tyres I possibly can for the conditions. The Hankooks on it at the mo might not be the last name in summer tyre grip, but so far it hasn't come unstuck, even on "spirited" drives - even with the TRC off and a sidestep of the clutch mid bend, it doesn't want to slide much. As for winter, I'd rather put some tyres on that work better in low temps. Winter tyres that carry the snowflake symbol are made using a different silica compound that remains flexible at much lower temps than all season or summer tyres (summer tyres drop off below 10deg, and winter tyres work best below 7 - with all season filling in the gaps. Add to that the sipes and larger tread pattern - designed to cope with snow (and mud - hence the M+S designation on nearly all winter tyres), even if I get 25% more grip in the snow than an all weather (and likely 50% more grip than a summer tyre) then they are worth it. Next door's Merc C class is driveway bound when it snows, even with the expensive Continentals it wears (not snow tyres). Fortunately, he also has a FWD car he can use - I don't. I've never had a RWD car before, so no first hand experience of them in the snow. Up till now I've always had FWD cars, usually with much skinnier tyres too, that have worked in winter. But observing all the BM's, Merc's, and even the 4x4's that get stuck in snow and ice, and nearly all the time it's down to having the wrong tyres for the conditions. Winter tyres are mandatory, by law, in many European countries - there's a reason for that, and it's not just that they get more snow than us.

I was going to ask if RedeX/other brand cleaners are actually any good/worth doing. You see the bottles all singing and dancing about removing carbon build up and reducing emissions, but no idea if it actually makes a difference.....?

eBay, or other used outlet/classifieds

My car came with three keys; the grey valet key, a black master key (with casing cracked, but glued) and another master key completely broken apart. I bought a flip key replacement, local key cutter cut mine, and although I had a little problem with it at first (wouldn't turn in ignition) a quick run over with a metal file soon sorted that. Been working fine for the past 3/4 months I also bought one of these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-Toyota-Remote-3-button-key-fob-denso-type-is200-is300-gs200-gs300-LS-/251177034300?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item3a7b51623c Just as a spare, since you don't often see them with the logo on the back. Quality is nice, buttons fit perfectly, etc. Not had it cut yet, it's just there as a spare.

There's a big long list floating around here somewhere with all the compatible steel wheels from other manufacturers - I just can't find it at the mo. Sure someone will post it

Uniroyals arrived today There's 4, but they all look the same. Just need to get them fitted to the spare rims to check them under pressure, and if all good, shoe the car with them. Shame I don't have time or funds to refurb the grotty alloys they are going on. Maybe next year when it's back on summer tyres

I'm still toying with the idea of getting (another) flip up unit, ripping the screen out and fitting a GPS in there running TomTom I really love the idea of it (especially if I can also hook up a reverse cam, as I've seen others do) but the cost is a little inhibitive (considering how much I'd use it). That and later 7" units aren't particularly common to come by... I did buy an earlier 5" version to do it to, then decided against it and sold it on

Easiest way to tell is measure from the top of the arch to the ground, then another SE owner can do the same for you (not a Sport as they are lower as standard). Taking tyre size into consideration, and allowing a little bit for difference (age sag) they should be more or less the same. If yours is around 30mm lower, or more, than you know it's been lowered - as in most cases even age-sag won't drop a car 30+mm

Mine should be arriving tomorrow, hopefully next door will take them in since I'm at work - otherwise I'll have to re-arrange delivery for next week. Then it's just a case of carting them, and the spare wheels, down to the local garage to have them fitted and balanced. Will wait till the temp really drops down to a consistent sub 7deg before actually fitting them to the car, as everything I've read suggests they work best below 7deg and running them when the temp is above that will just wear them quicker than normal. Knowing my luck, after going to the expense I've gone to (£78 for the wheels, £251 for the tyres, plus fitting which is gonna be another £40-£50, so about £380 - £80 higher than my initial budget was!) we'll probably have the mildest winter on record! :D If you fancy it, there's a set here I had on my watch list, but the Uniroyals I've bought finished first and I shot for them instead; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290802330580?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 You can see if the guy will allow you to arrange a collection with Paisley Freight (who delivered my wheels and are delivering the tyres I just bought too), as they do next day delivery, and 4 tyres only is £25 (http://www.paisleyfreight.com/alloy-wheel-courier.php)

As above - the loom and connectors aren't present behind the dash, nor is the loom and connectors in place in the boot for the actual Nav unit either. You can buy the full thing (screen and dash unit, along with the Nav unit itself) for a few hundred quid, but you're probably looking another £500-£1000 to get it all wired in by an auto electrician and it will be a full custom job, not a simple OEM retro fit or aftermarket plug-in affair.

Good tip, didn't know that!

Can you dip an entire car? how would that even work?

I've just been going through this whole thing, but sadly I don't have the funds to spring for new tyres, so I've been looking at part worns, or "retreads" (or very budget new tyres - ie, sub-£50 a corner) In the end, I opted for part worns, but wasn't entertaining anything under 7mm tread depth (ideally 8 or 9), and annoyingly missed out by only a few quid on a set of Continental Winter Contacts with 9mm tread not far from me, that went for a touch over £250 (my budget was really £200). Then got outbid on two sets of Avon IceTour's, a set of Khumo's, and a set of Dunlop WinterSport 3D's too. But this morning, I won a set of Uniroyal MS Plus 66's, with 7mm tread, for £251 inc shipping. Not my first choice (which were the Conti's) but I've had Uniroyals before (RainSports) and they were excellent, so hopefully their winter tyres are just as good - if they are half as good on snow as the Rainsports were on the wet, then I'll be pleased, cos the RainSports were by far the best tyres I've ever driven in the wet! I've got a tatty set of standard IS rims in the shed waiting to be shoed with the Uniroyals, and my refurb'd rims with Hankook summer tyres on will rest there till spring. Because I haven't driven my IS in winter before, nor actually run on winter tyres just yet, I can't offer any advice, other than I opted to go for 205/50-17's rather than the standard size of 215/45's - purely because the narrower the tyre the better when it comes to snow. If I could have got a set of 16" steels for it, I'd have gone down to 195 section tyres.