matt-c

I paid £100 for mine (and it's in perfect condition, and came with everything needed - bolts, bracket, cubby hole liner and the all important magnet blank) and I think, personally, that's too much. I'd think that £50-£60 is more like it, but demand drives up the price! I really wanted one, and swore I wouldn't pay over £100, so when I was offered one at £100 I just thought "sod it" and snapped it up!

Thanks Chris :) I'd say mines 2-3 seconds too. It turns a few times then fires. It's just today it turned just that little bit slower (ie, the speed between the noises, and the pitch was slightly lower) Definitely didn't sound like a dying battery, but since someone posted on here about looking at the volt reading on ignition (which I didn't know about, and had never noticed it) I just thought I'd ask (plus anyone else who doesn't know, or joins the forum looking for a similar answer will find it)

Even with a manual it's a great mod, especially for those long cruises! I couldn't live without mine!

Just a quickie - car doesn't get used all that much (I think today was the first time this week) and with the colder weather coming in, I just thought I'd ask about battery health. It was a little slow to turn this morn - not massively, but a little slower than normal This is what my gauge reads with ignition on before cranking; And this is once started; Anything to worry about? Or normal?

IS doesn't have a full heated screen like a Focus or Mondeo. In fact no Lexus does. My IS has the wiper heated part, but that won't demist or de-ice a screen. Fortunately, the IS engine warms up quick enough (ie within 5 mins) to blow warm enough air onto it to demist, but you're gonna have to manually defrost/de-ice it. And contrary to popular belief, hot/warm water will de-ice your screen just fine without cracking it. I'm a windscreen fitter by trade, and in winter I pour hot tap water over my van screen every day to de-ice it, and haven't cracked one yet. When it snows, and my car is sat out in it for a week without being used, I fill up a couple washing up bowls of hot water to pour over the car to get rid of the snow and ice from it. The difference is, that how water from the tap will be fine, but boiling water from a kettle is too much, and will crack screens (especially ones with defects like stone chips). You need warm/hot tap water, and you need to pour it from the very top of the screen so it runs down (because it cools as it does). And also, the hotter the water (ie, boiling) the faster it will refreeze (the refrigeration principal - the heat of the water de-ices the screen, but the heat is whipped away by the cold outside temp, allowing the screen to rapidly cool again, and refreeze. It's this very fast cold > hot > cold that causes glass to crack, although this is usually only happens if you have a stone chip, which is a stress point)

I'd have got her number, and probably taken her back to mine...

License plate camera thing looks pretty cool - wonder if canaryseasider ever did the mods to fit? I'd be interested to see, as I intend to put a reverse cam on mine if I ever get the sat nav mod done

Radio comes it with 4x 10mm bolts. Grom plugs in using 1x plug. Radio goes back in 1ith 4x 10mm bolts. Done. You don't need to open anything up or take anything apart - you just take out the 4 bolts, pull the radio forward, plug the cable in, and put it back. (PS, the space between the top of the heater controls (they are attached to the radio and come out with it) and under the air vents is the perfect size for the actual grom unit. So you just plug it in, put the radio back in place, put the Grom on top of it, and leave it there. It's perfectly sized to stop is sliding around and moving)

You can't mess up fitting a Grom - it's a single plastic plug that only fits in one place on the head unit

It does. Perfectly. Thank you

I think it's pretty clear you've never driven on a racetrack, from the way you're avoiding the question. Care to confirm or deny?

I didn't ask where you could find a racetrack, I asked when was the last time you were on a racetrack

Comedy genius! I love it - LOL! BTW, when was the last time you were on a racetrack, knobby? Just asking...

I shall give those a look, thanks! (While on the subject, kinda, of power/wattage - what's the advises limit to go to? Ie, can the cars electrical system handle 80/100w?)

Hang on a min, so your IS300 SPORT isn't actually supercharged??!? What what?!?! (Oh wait that's right. And it's not an IS300 Sport either - just a base model!)

I get that, but just wondering if they'll be stronger/brighter than "regular" halogen bulbs (depending on like-for-like wattage of course)

I'm not really up on my chemistry, but as I understand it halogen, xenon, krypton, argon, etc, are all gases that work inside filament bulbs. A filament bulb can have any, or all, of these gases. But a filament bulb is an "instantly on" bulb (ie, you flick the switch and it's on, at full brightness) whereas a HID, or "true xenon" flickers and has to warm up when switched on. But yeah, you'll not get a halogen as good as a HID bulb, but HID's really aren't that good to use in main beam, unless you have the switchable high/low bulbs, as HID's don't respond well to flashing and sporadic on/off as you'd normally use with main beams. So I'm just after a whiter/better colour match, but always looking for a little improvement too, if poss!

Ah. I see. So a 1.4L engine that makes the same power as a forced-induction 1L engine, must be supercharged right? I get it! (ROFL!)

You're quite correct - main beam are HB3 (fogs are HB4, twas me getting confused) Those bulbs are halogen bulbs though, not Xenon (someone correct me if I'm wrong, but Xenon bulbs are the HID ones, whereas "xenon-gas filled halogen" bulbs are not..?)

LOL. Must be the supercharged one then, right?

No, the M400 uses the 3L Duratec V6 from the ST220, the 2.5L V6 Duratec from the Cougar, and the Mondeo ST24/200, was used in the M12. So, as per usual, you're wrong.

Would those HB4's be any good for full beam? I've put 5000k HID's in the dipped (and LED's in the sidelights, just for a better colour match) but of course the fogs, and full beam, are still yellow. So looking for an inexpensive set of regular (ie, not xenon) bulbs for those to match the colour better, and perform as good, if not better, than the stock bulbs

Oh dear...

What does the engine type have to do with it? The Supra had a 2JZ in it too - so would that mean it's a Supra Sport?

you missed this matt or would i be wrong?? Yes, you'd be wrong. Because it's not an IS300 Sport. I think you must be playing up to this, because no one, not even a retarded amoeba, would fail to grasp this.