matt-c

You've got an answer on the other thread you've made about this

Hate to say it, but yes it is common, and no it isn't cheap/easy to fix. As Ian said, it's easier, and cheaper, to replace the whole headunit, but get one with the same model number (bunch of numbers printed on the stereo, usually on or near the display, depending on model). I'm sure I've read on some of them, if the CD changer is showing and error code ("ERR3'?) then it won't even let you use the external CD changer, if you have one, which will also stop you using an iPod/iPhone kit (which sjrainsford mentions), because it also connects to the external CD changer port. Best check on that one before deciding to buy one (these devices are made by a few companies, the two preferred ones being 'Grom' or 'XCarLink', and both do the same function - fool the HU into thinking it has a CD changer connected to it, allowing you to use an iPod/iPhone, or USB stick, or Android device (depending on what model you buy), and use the HU controls for volume, skip, search, random, and playlists. Great little box of tricks; I've a Grom unit in mine and couldn't live without it, as EVERYTHING I listen to is on either my iPod Classic or iPhone - can't remember the last time I actually put a CD into something to listen to it!

I only ever put £50 max in the tank (around 35 litres) since I can't see the point in carrying that much weight in fuel all the time (70L of fuel weighs nearly 8 stone!), and for that I usually see 180-200 miles, and that's mainly urban and short trips. I see a bit more if on the motorway cruising (did two journeys in it today, first was 60 miles, of which I'd say 50ish was motorway, and 2nd was 22 miles, most of which is country lanes with a little bit of town) and it moved about 2-3 notches on the dial. Smooth is the name of the game. Around town you need to poodle it, and like Chris says, I normally keep it under 3500rpm (especially since it seems so at home doing 30mph in 4th at low revs). It does need winding up to get going, and now and again I'll come off a roundabout onto a bypass and give it a run up in 2nd to 5k ish just to feel it move, but other than that it's slow and steady. If it's still doing bad, then have a look into cleaning the throttle body out. Plus it wouldn't hurt to change the air filter, if it hasn't been done recently, and sounds stupid, but check the tyres pressures. Too low and your MPG is hurt. Lastly, how much weight is the car carrying? Full size spare and the tool kit doesn't help, but a whole bunch of junk in the boot all the time isn't great. It's amazing how many people overlook this stuff, so no offence if it sounds like I'm teaching you to suck eggs!

Mine are in need of a paint - quite badly bubbled and flaking (http://tinyurl.com/cjeadeb), but they'll do for winter, and I'll see about sanding and painting them in the spring/summer. The set of 4 you might be able to convince the guy to ship. The ones I bought were collection only, but the guy agreed to ship them to me after I showed him Paisley Freight will collect 4x 17" tyres and deliver next day for £25, and just need them wrapped (2x pairs) and labeled. Paisley delivered both my wheels and tyres (different sellers) http://www.paisleyfreight.com Initially, I was looking at Dunlop WinterSport 3D's, and got outbid on a couple of auctions for them, along with a couple auctions for Avon IceTour's too, but the one that pished me off the most was a set of 9mm tread (barely used, only a few months old) ContiWinterContact's, which went for £256 - only £5 more than I bid!!! And they were close enough to collect! (probably 45mins away)

Dip Beam - 9006/HB4 Main Beam - 9005/HB3 Sidelight - 501w /T10/W5W Side Turn - 501w /T10/W5W Front Fog 99-2003 - 9006/HB4 Front Fog 2003- H3 Front Turn Indicator - T20 /7440/582 Rear High Mounted Stop Light - 955 Licence Plate - 501w /T10/W5W X 2 Rear Fog - T20 /7440/582 Reverse light - T20 /7440/582 Rear indicator - amber 582y/7440/T20 Stop/Tail - R580 /w21\5w Interior Middle Dome - 269 /festoon 31mm Interior Front - Ba9 Glove Box - R286 / 5mm Ignition barrel ring - R286 / 5mm Door Marker lights - 501w /T10/w5w Boot Light - 501w /T10/w5w

These are good, although the 2nd pair are a little low for my liking, they'd still be useable for a season or two http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-2-WINTER-TYRES-205-50-17-DUNLOP-M3-7-8mm-/261140113353?pt=UK_Cars_Tyres_RL&fits=Tyre+Width%3A205%7CAspect+Ratio%3A50%7CDiameter%3A17&hash=item3ccd29e7c9 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-2-WINTER-TYRES-205-50-17-DUNLOP-M2-5-6-mm-/251197366665?pt=UK_Cars_Tyres_RL&fits=Tyre+Width%3A205%7CAspect+Ratio%3A50%7CDiameter%3A17&hash=item3a7c87a189 And these look good too, 2k use is nothing so long as they've been on and off in the right temps; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Snow-Tyres-x-4-Jinyu-205-50-R17-89H-2505017-/121037052527?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Rims_Car_Wheels_ET&fits=Tyre+Width%3A205%7CAspect+Ratio%3A50%7CDiameter%3A17&hash=item1c2e5eda6f Couple that with a cheap set of standard 17's (or onto your own 17's if you're intending to get a set of 18's for normal/summer use) and you're laughing. I paid £78 for my second set of rims, £250 for tyres, and another £50 for fitting, total £378. Sure there's probably cheaper ways to do it, but this way 1) I've got two sets of wheels/tyres ready to go, so simple to swap over myself with no ongoing fitting costs (as you would if you only had tyres and swapped them twice a year), 2) it seems excessive, but you're lengthening the life of both sets by only running them for part of a year, and 3) my nicely refurb'd rims don't get all salted and gritted in the winter months

40mpg is superb

I did London to Leeds and back again, with an extra little bit on top (around town) - total 454 miles, and used about a full tank (plus a tiny bit) which I make out to be near as dammit 30mpg, and about 20p per mile. Around town is less, but I haven't really calculated it properly, but I'd expect it to be low to mid 20's

Don't see why not - they're only 10mm wider than standard. But I wouldn't be fitting wider tyres for winter, as the narrower a tyre is, the better it will be in the snow and slush

I *think* IS200 offset is ET50, but I'm not 100% sure on that

Ha, I originally wanted blue with cream interior when I first started thinking about an IS too! But soon went off cream as I know it'd dirty very easily. And at first I really didn't like the silver (or the off-silver rather) that Lexus use, but it soon grew on me, to the extent I decided I wanted it over the blue! Hence why I've got what I've got (silver with black interior) IS300 lights will require modification to the bodywork to fit BTW. If you don't like the standard dipped beam (and who does, it's rubbish) then £20's worth of HID conversion kit will soon change that. Fits in 20mins with no mods, and a damn sight cheaper

My IS idles at 11/1200 when cold, then down to 8/900 when warmed up

Because you've got a visual indicator on your dash (it's even covered in this very thread, in post #9 http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=50224entry539972)

As is mine - no way I could confuse 1st with reverse. You have to give it a positive shove to get it through the "gate"

Technically, you'd still have to tell your insurance, as the wheels aren't the standard wheels your RX came with. However, it's not really a "modification" as it would be switching from standard 16's to more desirable 19's, so it's your judgement call

If I knew how to disable it, I surely would! but from what I've read, it appears to be part of the speedo unit, and isn't easy, if possible, to disable.

Yes - it's one of the annoyances of a manual IS; as soon as you engage reverse there is a constant beeping until you disengage reverse. As Chris said, it's just to tell you that you are in reverse

Could you not post the info on the thread? Might help others looking for a similar answer while searching.

My original wheels were refurbed by the previous owner, and I'm hoping they had a real good job done, so I don't have to have it redone. The scabby set I've put on for winter are bubbling, peeling and flaking pretty badly Winter wheels Refurbed set

My bad

A mint set sold on here recently too.

You should also have a post over on OJC forum, and ask about getting one of Patrik's "black boxes". Apparently it makes the WORLD of difference compared to the HKS FCD, and is much much better

It's my understand, that the stock ECU is basically self mapping. With the new bits fitted, drive it about a bit, then park it up, disconnect the ECU from the power (fuse out will do) leave it for a while (some say 3hrs, some say as much as overnight) then reconnect, drive it about a bit and it "learns" what's going on, and sets out new parameters to run properly.

^ That's the best way to do it. 2nd set of rims with dedicated tyres on, then it's as simple as half an hour jacking up to change the wheels when you need to. Plus you only have to pay out tyre fitting costs once!

Sat nav is about the only optional extra! Everything else was standard ;) But I got my IS for exactly the same reason - something a little different to the everyday BMW (although to be fair to it, the E46 Beemer is actually a very good car, and great to drive!), and something a little bit more "classy" than I've had prior to it.