matt-c

Much more likely that the IS gives shocking MPG compared to many other cars of it's form and engine size, and other makes are cheaper to maintain/service.

Looks like an ISO block that most aftermarket stereo's have. The standard Lexus/Toyota connector blocks for the stereo are white. That one you have there will either connect to a white block, which will be the factory one, or it will have been hardwired into it, meaning the white block has been cut off, and the wires for that black block in your pic will have been joined.

I'll probably get frowned on, but that's one of the ugliest car's I've ever seen. Even uglier than the LFA!

Very first thing is always audio related - I cannot have a car that doesn't have an input for an iPod/iPhone. Ideally a dock connector input like the Grom in my IS, and at the very least a 3.5mm jack input. As for the IS, headlights were the next on the list, and one of the most important was the front armrest. After those, I'm not too fussed. It'd be nice to change the looks a little with a TTE or TRD kit, and the 18's would be nice, but I'm not fussed enough about them to pursue it strongly. If they come along they come along.

Be sure to get one with the same numbers on the front as the one you have/originally had, otherwise it's likely it won't work

Just go to a Lexus dealer. They'll ID the part and give you the part # and price, you get back on to the guys you bought it from, have them order it and send it to you. Simple. Why over complicate things by looking to buy from other countries, or spend months looking for that lone part on it's own (which is very very unlikely, as the rest is useless without it)

15mm

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x9-Rear-Speaker-Adapters-Brackets-Spacers-For-2001-2005-Lexus-IS300-/310351571047?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item4842652867

^ Good tip

Just use this, it's easier than maths : http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

Not nice :(

The light output when converting to HID's is so massively improved, that you won't need your fogs anymore. Add to that, that fog lights actually work best with the more yellowy light of the standard bulbs (crystal white or slightly blue tinted bulbs will reflect more in fog). There's also no point putting HID's in the main beam, as they need time to warm up, so with the constant flicking on and off you do with main beams, they'd never be at full brightness. Also, because of the warm up time, they don't respond well to flashing either. So really, just do your dipped beams. 4300k will give you the OEM look, whiter than standard bulbs, but with a little tinge of the more natural light. 5000k are touted as pure white, but in 35w bulbs, they'll still edge a tiny tinge of blue (55w are supposed to be pure white). 6000k are the most common and have a noticeable blue tinge to them. 8000k's are pretty blue. Also, the higher the k (kelvin) rating, the less light output (as in 4300k is the brightest, and 8000k isn't as bright) Personally, I think blue tinged lights look chavvy, so I went for 5000k's. But because they are 35w they are still not as 100% white as I'd like, so I might well change them to 4300k's. Onto the other lights, I'd just get a decent set of halogen bulbs in the main beam, to try and match the colour of the HID's. Likewise with the fogs if you really want (personally, I often use my fogs on overcast days and dusky times, just running with the sidelights on and the fogs - because the sidelights are dreadfully bad too, they just aren't enough on their own). Sidelights, again if you want them to match in colour, can easily be changed to LED bulbs. As for what to buy, you'll need a conversion kit to go for HID's (comes with 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts and associated wiring harnesses), if you have standard halogen headlights. I'd then buy the main beam, halogen, bulbs and LED sidelight bulbs separately.

That's not bad. It originally went up for £3250, and then he dropped it to £3150. I was tempted to offer £2800, but I thought he'd probably stick with £3k. Never saw it in person but it looks a good'un from the pics, and the specifics (mileage etc) are spot on. Get some better pics up when you get a chance

Good choice. I had that in my watch list, and thought about going to view it. What did you give for it in the end?

You can also check the TRC light on the dash is working when you turn it on - all the dash lights illuminate for a couple seconds, before some, including the TRC light, go out. This is on the ignition on click, before you turn to crank the engine;

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=80059&hl=

Can't remember if I put 30 or 35 litres in last fill up, but it's just ticked 215 miles, and no orange light just yet (although it's not far away, just a couple marks on the gauge, maybe even only one) Breakdown is about 40 miles of that is town/short journeys, and about 175 was motorway. So that's about 28 or 32, depending how much I put in...

It should turn the traction control off, indicated by a light on the dash. First port of call in investigation is to see if the light is working. Take the clocks out and check the bulb. 2nd port of call is to find out if the TRC is staying on or going off with the button - wet car park, get it rolling, rev to 4,500 rpm and side step the clutch in 2nd. If it spins, TRC is off. If it catches and bogs down, TRC is on.

That's great!

I've noticed a handling difference just from switching from the 45 sidewall tyres to the 50's on my winter tyres. I'm guessing that sidewall stiffness is different between the two sets of tyres (different brands), and that will be contributing also. It's definitely softer than the summer tyres, and a tiny bit more "roll" in it when cornering at speed (the banked S bend slip road from the M1! onto the M25 is a perfect test for this. Great bit of road - when it's empty!)

Only way I can describe it, is as if it's holding it's breath!

See they hate Lexus! Unbelieavable... In the same DVD, both Clarkson and May sing the praises of the LFA...

That's the complete opposite of what I've found with my IS - the steering feels solid and planted, no twitchyness or play in it. It's not heavy or stiff, and to be fair could be a little more responsive, but it shouldn't be overly light or twitchy. Get it down to Chesham to see Tony @ Wheels In-Motion; they'll give the geometry a complete overhaul to their settings and it'll feel better than ever

Ah, I see. No one has mentioned this so far. So what are the sizes?

If asked this question 6 months ago, I'd have said 200, purely for the 6speed manual box (as far as manual boxes go, it's up there as one of the nicest I've ever driven) However, ask me now - after I've had a 200 for a while, and I'd have to say 300 - purely for the auto box! Don't get me wrong, the 6sp manual, as I said, is a lovely box, but what I've realised after owning and driving an IS for a while is that the auto box is much better suited to how I drive an IS compared to how I used to drive cars. The IS has changed how I drive; now it's all about quiet, smooth and relaxed. And an auto box is perfect for that (and from what I've read, the W55 box in the 300 is a very nice auto). I originally thought about an auto 200, but didn't like the 4sp box in them, so I'm very tempted to switch to a 300 just for the 5sp autobox. I'm not fussed about the full leather, already got the armrest in my 200, and xenons, the extra power is a bonus, but not a necessity, and the few other features (like the auto dipping mirrors) aren't really a concern to me - it's all about the lazy-box ;)