Dean1309

Thats the exhaust my second IS200 came with and it is LOUD, especially when you fit the mid section, I took the mid section off mine as it was way too loud for my liking. And I ended up swapping it out for the HKS which was sporty but not in your face

I've moved across to a very low mileage W203 Sport Edition Mercedes that I picked up for a good price, very nice car and very well put together. Slowly but surely changing it to how I want it. Haven't done too much, tinted windows all round, new Merc CLC 18" wheels, LED lighting conversion all round, Dynavin stereo to look OEM, Merc logo lights in the front doors. Enjoying owning the car, very nice to drive. Hope you get exhausted fitted soon enough.

Hi mate I've been away from the IS200 for a couple of years now but I think the gasket you need is either this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114215819010 Or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290580326927 Im pretty sure my IS200 had the first seal fitted when I changed from the JapSpeed to HKS Silent HiPower

Hiya, i had this on my old IS200, the security light just flashes and the car just cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over. I think the way I sorted this was to disconnected the battery and leave for half hour. Reconnect the battery and try cranking the car over again. I done this and my car started. I hope you have luck doing the same.

To flush the heater core, you will need two clear hoses (clear just to see the colour change in the fluid) connect both hoses onto the heater core at the back of the engine bay. One hose into a bucket, the other hose connected to a garden tap/hose on low pressure. Flush the core one way, ensuring fluid goes from brown to clear, and is free from any dirt/debris. Then switch the hoses around on the heater core and flush the other way. Once all is clear, pour anti-freeze into one hose and make sure you fill until it comes out of the other hose, So you know the whole heater core is filled. Put the hoses back on the heater core in the same orientation you took them off.

Of course, the most obvious of all is make sure coolant levels in both the expansion tank on back of radiator and the radiator are full.

Hi, I would start by feeling both top and bottom radiator hoses both should be hot, but bottom should be cooler than the top hose. I would then check the car gets up to temperature and gauge stays in middle even when driving. This rules out thermostat. Then I would check the heater matrix pipes going into the cabin from engine bay. I suspect the heater core needs flushing to gain heat back in the heater. This is most likely the cause.

The most common way people gain entry to the cars in this situation is to smash the small triangle window in the rear door and reach through and unlock the rear door. Personally I don't like this method, any smashing of windows is out the question for me. But just another way to gain entry. Either that or power to starter motor.

You could put a jump pack if you have one onto the positive and negative of the starter motor to get power to the car to unlock the doors. https://community.cartalk.com/t/dead-battery-car-wont-unlock/77042

Now 4 bulbs blown at the same time, what are the chances of that. Glad you got to the bottom of it mate.

Just wondering what was you doing at the time when you realised both lots of bulbs were not working. Was you changing any bulbs? Only reason I ask is I was changing number plate bulbs and accidentally blew a fuse. I also noticed interior lights were no longer working and side lights were not working. Replaced the fuse and all came back. I cannot see all 4 bulbs failing at the same time, which I would have thought points to a fuse. Try changing a side light 501 bulb with a known good bulb and see if it lights up. I would pull each and every fuse in both kick panels and under the bonnet to make sure all fuses are good.

This isn't uncommon you will find several items in your car share the same fuse. If one fuse blows a couple of items will no longer work.

Hi, The fuse box is located by the drivers kick panel inside the car next to the pedals, take the cover off and check for the 'tail' fuse. This is most likely the blown fuse. Dean

Oh apologies, I have never had to locate that drain plug. I no longer own an IS200 so I can't help you with that one mate. I'm sure someone on here would be able to help though.

As for flushing the heater matrix, remove the hoses to the matrix from the engine bay and attach a hose into a bucket and the other end to a garden hose on low pressure. And then swap the hoses around to reverse flush to make sure everything is clear. Use clear tubing if possible to see the colour difference in water coming out of the matrix. When refilling the matrix pour anti-freeze coolant directly into the heater matrix hoses to ensure coolant gets to the matrix, once full re-attach the coolant hoses the correct way it was removed. I'm sure you knew that anyway but just sharing some info.

Hi mate the coolant drain plug is under the plastic under tray. Remove about 10, 10mm bolts holding the under tray on, around the edge of the bumper and a few on the underneath of the tray. Towards the passenger side of the radiator is the white coolant drain plug. Although it might be quicker to get some pliers, undo the clamp holding the lower radiator hose on, and pull off the hose.

If the water pipes coming from the heater matrix is hot by the firewall that would indicate that water is flowing through, you could also check the heater matrix itself or near the area inside the car to feel any heat around the heater matrix. It could indeed be the servo motors. They started to go on my old Lexus, used to click when the engine was turned off as if it couldn't negotiate it's correct position, but worked perfectly when the car was running. Only way to tell is to buy another one and swap them out. They are only about £15 off eBay. Think you gotta take the glove box out to get to it.

This is sadly pointing towards heater matrix, I've read online that the dash has to come out to get to it and get it out. Although, it can be done by removing the hoses to the heater matrix, joining them together so you don't loose coolant and cutting the pipes of the heater matrix to remove. But how you would get the new one without cutting it I don't know. https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/64252-how-to-change-your-heater-matrix/

Have you checked the top and bottom radiator hose, the top hose should be hot and the bottom radiator hose should be cooler as its being cooled by the radiator. If they are exactly like this then there is no issue, if they are both cool, there is a problem and I would say thermostat. I'm trying to suggest the obvious before changing the heater matrix as this will more than likely be a nightmare to do. My previous Lexus IS200 had 163,000 on the clock and never needed a heater matrix replaced, cooling issues were else where.

Hi mate, I would check the obvious first, there is coolant in the expansion tank and radiator, don't forget these cars have two filling points for coolant. Secondly whats the symptoms the car is experiencing? My old IS200 used to warm up fine at idle, as soon as you start driving, the heat used to go cold and had no heat at all (temp guage went from middle to cold), I suffered throughout the whole winter with no heating. The issue was the thermostat, I had replaced the thermostat when changing the radiator, i replaced the stat with a BluePrint part, the car didn't like it, the thermostat wasn't closing off properly, so the car never kept its temperature. I replaced the BluePrint part with a genuine Toyota Stat and problem solved, never had any issues since then.

Hiya, I've sold my Lexus now but the tax was £175 for 6 months / £300 for a year. As for mpg I think about 28mpg, 300 miles out of a tank. As for things to check, make sure it's had a cam belt and water pump changed at its service schedule every 60k. And the front lower ball joints have been done, only replace with genuine Toyota parts. Only other thing is watch out if it has had a replacement pilkington windscreen as they used to leak water into the footwell and can cause electrical issues. This is rare on the later models though. I can't think of anything else. Just make sure it's serviced and it will last forever.

Just chuck some 9006/HB4 bulbs in them and put them back in the car. Take the gauze off the rubber vent tube and put the tube back on. I never had any issues with water getting into my dogs after doing that

Mines a 2002 IS200 Sport and has 162,000 miles on it, Last year had to have a new radiator which had done 150,000 miles on the original rad, over heated 6 times and is still running a year later. These engines are bullet proof. Had to have cambelt / water pump and aux belt change this year, along with lower ball joints as a precaution due to them starting to knock. 160,000 miles on original ball joints is pushing it. But I've also had years of trouble free motoring from the car. This was just routine maintenance.

Hi All, At the beginning of the year I had the same problem, both my keys snapped, one snapped summer last year and in Jan the second snapped. I ordered two keys for £5 from ebay and cost my £29 to get both blades cut at a local locksmith. Hope others can find local locksmiths to cut their blades. Dean