ROYT

think I read somewhere that metal objects in the centre glove box affects the immobilser sometimes....don't know why Also make sure the car battery is fully charged.

Also check everything is fitted back securely, no air leaks etc. check all wiring nearby in case something is disconnected.

I would risk a drop of WD40.........

If the chassis is corroded through, unless it's localised and minor i would abandon it. The wheel arches can be repaired, but if the inner arch is rotten as well it becomes a big job. Get a body man to see how extensive and widespread the corrosion is. I broke up a series one with no corrosion anywhere, better than my series two and looks like better than later models

A mechanical bang or an electrical bang? If a mechanical bang usually quite loud check for a broken suspension spring, one of mine went bang [broke] just backing out of the drive.......

Steve 2006, The crank pulley didn't need a puller on my '94 but the crank bolt was very tight.

I recklessly drilled holes in the front of the wheel arch inside. Then removed the 'kick' trim on top the sill and drilled a few more. Plenty squirting of Waxoyl, then flat grommets to neatly cover the holes.

Happened to me ,new battery fixed it....

Excellent news,what did they use to get it off?

Replacement locking keys are sometimes available, if there are any numbers or identity marks on yours, there are some on Ebay now. If you could get one and maybe get the others off leaving one bad one your breakdown service may help, well worth a try anyway , this must be a popular problem.

Yes, just weld it on to the remains of the original damaged nut [after it has been tidied up], so you get a secure weld.

You won't let me have Rachel Riley so Guy Martin!!

MIg welder will weld a new nut on top of the remains of the old one, It's not screwed on just welded on top.[like a stack]. The heat will be drawn down the stud, very little if any will stray to the wheel. Welding time is very quick.

chisel or grind off the raised wavy bit ,weld a new nut to remaining part of original wheelnut.

I'll second that......Guy Martin

A few years ago I bought a write off SLK [panel and bonnet damage] also with the same problem and the Laser ones did the job although I had to turn one down in a lathe as it was a few thou too big on the outside. Looks like the later ones are already done. They worked because there was a decent amount of the lugbolt protruding to wind on for a tight fit. From your picture there doesn't seem to be enough of the nut protruding to get a good grip with this type of tool. If this is the case I would chisel off the wavy bits left and weld a nut on. Any competent welder can do this, the only risk, if carelessly done, is welding the nut to the wheel stud.

No, you weld a nut to the exposed damaged lockbolt,[if it's locknut and not a lockbolt is done just the same] then using a socket and long bar undo it normally. There should be no damage to the alloy wheel.

Find an independant mechanic who can weld. MIG is popular and will do this job, anyone who can MIG weld can do this. Welding will melt the two parts together if done right and then a long bar and socket will undo it.

There doesn't look enough depth to it to get a decent grip of it. I would get it as flat as poss. and weld from the centre the biggest nut I could get in, making sure there was enough room to get the socket on. A 3ft breaker bar would get it off then.

As above..

How about Rachel Riley ! ?

Check out KYB, I used on my LS no problems, they have a massive range....

I'd like to think that would happen with Lexus when they reach 50 but I doubt it. I won't be around then anyway! I had a similar experience a long time ago when I wanted brake parts for a Dodge.[i've had 3 yanks,wish I'd kept the Camaro!] Shipped from the states in 4 days and cheap, with all the fixings included.

Lexus claim luxury models with luxury part prices to go with them, so they should keep supplying parts. I think the Japanese set a cut off point for parts sooner because they are forever completely redesigning models from scratch I don't think we will be lucky enough to get aftermarket electronic stuff being made to keep us on the road as 'classics' Also later Lexus models don't seem as well made as LS's ,I'm not confident to change to a later newer model. All the gadgetry and ECU's have put a finite life on everything. I really don't want to go back to a simple Morris minor either! Dilemma.....

Steve ,when I did the cambelt I changed the serp. and kept it as a spare, it measures 2250. early 1994 model year The belt is marked micro-v xf 6pk2253, the 2253 I thought was the length but I'm guessing.{ presumably this was a replacement it's not marked Toyota] If it is the you still only gain 3mm. Hope this is some help