ROYT

Great...and good update info...

Like it!

I would recheck the pad warning wires and connectors again , any bad connection, or intermittent open circuit will put the light on. May go open circuit when gets warm.........?

Plenty of WD40 on the connections and patience getting them undone without twisting the pipes Fit the new one following the recomended order, best if someone helps with the bleeding.holding the pedal down/topping up etc.

According to some info I have the part # for the belt is 13568-59045 upto 7/07, if thats any use.

I would copy them for you , but it's really fiddly to get a complete page on, as the book is so thick. If you have a decent digital camera we could arrange a meet and you could photo what you like!

It all helps!!

Try www.lexls.com

Code 31 puts the ECU into fail safe mode, keeping igniton timing and fuel injection volume constant making it possible to drive the vehicle. Diagnosis :Harness or connector between ECU and air flow meter Air flow meter ECU Code 13 3 diagnosis listed abreviated down to Engine speed sensor or ECU or Loose timing belt jumping teeth/ harness or connector between ECU and engine speed sensor No 1 or no 2 cam position sensor Code 25 Diagnosis abreviated to Harness or connector between ecu and main oxygen sensor Fuel line pressure ignition system Air intake system Injector circuit Water temp sensor Intake air temp sensor ECU There are pages and pages about these codes and what to look for , think this will keep you quiet for a bit!!

Agree with 'jamesholden'. I always go to an MOT station that does'nt do repairs, you get no favours but there is no point in giving you a load of tosh when they cannot benefit!

There are upper control arms on Ebay @ £59, are they no good?

I might have this wrong, but isn't there some kind of small filter at the rack end, that needs cleaning occasionally?

The usual O ring fault is the one between the reservoir and the body of the pump. look on www.lexls for O/haul info.

I reckon it is ....mine does the same,drives itself with the aircon on! It's the 'idle up' arrangement, presumably to reduce the risk of the engine stalling, when the compressor kicks in.

If the LCD display is OK, it's bulbs, if the display is black it needs a new LCD display.Usually the temp. and clock display seem to fail first. It does sound like a bad earth or a bad connection somewhere on your aerial or as it seems to getting called now your antenna!

Steve2006, if you can do the starter you can do the cambelt! I found it painfully slow,'cos of all the dismantling to get to it, just remember to loosen the crank nut before you get too far into it!

Chrali, not a great deal of difference in the feel of the car but they were well shot, allowing the rear wheels to pull forward and back if you had a wheelbrace with a long bar on a wheel nut. [with the wheel/s off the ground.] They have been OK no squeeks or queer noises. Nonplussed Most of it came out, careful sawing removed the rest, being careful not to saw the housing! It may push out if you have accurate fitting short bar to press it out. Any way will do as long as the housing is not damaged...I did not risk heating it though... Steve2006 Agreed, you could probably rig up something , pushing it through , say using a puller 'in reverse'

I got rear hub poly bushes from the USA, but I have never seen them since..name was ADUS Might be worth trawling the USA LOC. Also think 'Superflex' may now have these, most others listed

Yes,bleed them and that should fix it

Think about the kind of door/s you want as well. Whe I had a double garage with 2 doors, instead of one big one,I found it a pain in the a88e, when doing any work on the car......

Check the hinges,might be them!

I have only heard of the OEM Lexus kit. Might be worth trawling the USA site..

if I am not mistaken you have series three...

Daft question.......are the cd's the right way up?

If the battery is good and it does'nt crank the engine over, sounds like a duff starter to me.